made a mistake via craigslist

[Patrolman]

Exactly, "as-is" means you accept in in the condition it is in, but emissions is not part of that. The seller is still responsible for emissions, but everything else is "as-is". If the wheels fall off and the transmission explodes, the buyer has no liability as long as it passed emissions first.

[94ToyBear]

Patrolman previously posted:

[Fireball]

Good info. The seller is responsible. Let's hope its just an O2 sensor or something simple and you get back on the road, no worries.

[Patrolman]

94ToyBear previously posted:

[94ToyBear]

Patrolman previously posted:

[Backcountryislife]

I've done more swaps than I care to admit, and $3700+ is CRAZY money for a used motor. CRAZY. A swap doesn't take that long, and a motor should be nowhere near that cost.

Call around, it's a common enough vehicle that you should be able to find a better shop. #1 though... talk to the seller, as is does NOT mean they can sell without emissions, period. #2, I would be happy to "rent" you my condo in Empire (trust me, the time saved by dealing with mountain DMV's MORE than makes up for the drive anyhow)

[ozmonkey]

1st test:
HC GPM 2.5964 (1.2 limit) Fail
CO GPM 17.4324 (15 limit) Fail
CO2 GPM 435.5 Pass
Nox GPM 2.3933 (2.4 limit) Pass

After spark plugs/wires and chemicals used:
HC GPM 2.3719 (1.2 limit) Fail
CO GPM 11.3708 (15 limit) Pass
CO2 GPM 391.12 Pass
Nox GPM 2.33530 (2.4 limit) Pass

It's going to one of the emissions station "garages" tomorrow for a 2nd opinion on what'll fix it.

[Backcountryislife]

So is there something that we're not being told as to why you're taking this as your problem rather than talking to the seller?

Seems like an easy fix to me, but I'm not claiming to know the whole story or your motivations.

[alexb]

94ToyBear previously posted:

[alexb]

Chris previously posted:

[ozmonkey]

Backcountryislife previously posted:

[Patrolman]

I would also send him a certified letter with a copy of the emissions failure and the estimate for the repairs. If that doesn't get his attention, a small claims suit will.

Part of the issue with the engine swap is these engines are hard to find. Not many Tacomas were sold with 3rz engines (4wd only models), they are desirable, and there were a few iterations of the engine, so finding the right one might cost some coin. They tend to start at $1,000 for a used engine.

[Jim]

Patrolman previously posted:

[94ToyBear]

What are the cat temperature before the cat and after the cat after its completely warm ?

[JeepWrench]

check used engine prices here

car-part.com

[Tnsejed]

I applaud you ozmonkey. I know that I personally don't agree with "as is" sale emissions laws and I've bought enough stuff. There is generally a problem you miss, even with hours of looking at a vehicle.

All they make me want to do is crush vehicles instead of selling them. Anyways, didn't want to clutter up the thread but good on you!

[Unbalanced]

ozmonkey previously posted:

[ozmonkey]

Took it to the emissions garage in Greeley yesterday.
Definitely a problem in the 3rd cylinder. This shop does a free, much more in depth evaluation of what's going on that the regular emissions lane.
They showed me a gizmo hooked up during idle that displayed the compression of each cylinder in a real-time graph (experiencing deja-vu as I type this, weird).

They describe it as "Misfire counts on cylinder #3 from 10 to 27 Counts"

Also, the cat appears to be damaged do to the cylinder 3 issue.

[Unbalanced]

Yep, the misfire will kill the cat. But that's a result, not a cause, of the failure.

And the misfire will allow unburned fuel into the exhaust, which is your HC failure.

And the additional oxygen leftover from the lack of combustion will trick the PCM into driving the other cylinders rich, causing elevated CO.

Now, dynamic compression tests can ID the weaker cylinder. But it just compares contribution against the other cylinders. A true compression test can tell much more. We don't know how weak the other cylinders are. I'd still suggest a compression test. Then, since the plugs will be out already, the next step should be a cylinder leak down test. That can help identify the cause of the low compression.

[Jim]

If you wish to bring it up to me for a simple look, I'm game. I have screw in and push/hold in compression meters.

As it seems the compression, from the note, is ?variable?, I would lean towards a sticking valve. If it was due to a hole in the piston, it'd be constant (or so I'd think).

4cyl motor (re-read post 1) so #3 "should be" fairly simple to get to. Removing the valve cover "should be"??? easy to remove to inspect valve operation?

Holler if you wish to drive up.