Front radius arms for Range Rover Classic and Discovery I models with 3"-5" lift. Your stock arms in exchange. Price does not include new bushings but I can press out and replace at no charge to you. $250.00
Front radius arms for Range Rover Classic and Discovery I models with 3"-5" lift. Your stock arms in exchange. Price does not include new bushings but I can press out and replace at no charge to you. $250.00
You able to do trailing arms?
yes
that said, I would need to know what your objective is in replacing what you have first. Lifting it more, more articulation, moving the axle back, etc...
Where does the pinion point with these arms, as in, are they setup for a double cardan or a standard front drive shaft? (Can't quite tell in the pic as the pinion is hidden.)
Are these of your own creation or are they Rovertym arms?
Thanks!
I made these to mimic the stock pinion angle at lift height. They are similar, very similar to rovertym radius arms. If you are running the double cv it would increase your angle by 4.02deg. Already accounted for this in my figures, basically you would be fine with a double cv.
by the way heres a great way to make your own: Double CV
I get all confused when angle numbers start coming out. :lol:
Let me describe my situation to see if we're on the same page. I've got 3" Rovertym springs (RR4 and RR1), stock radius arms, and a double cardan front shaft. My pinion is pointing too high/too far up with the stock arms. I wouldn't mind getting it down some so that it is closer to pointing at the output of the t-case, vice pointing at the passenger's groin. (But, I don't want the pinion ending up too low either.) That way, I could gain a few degrees of caster back to improve the highway manners. But, exactly how many degrees I need to rotate the axle back to get the pinion pointing properly is unknown, since I haven't gone that far.
Since it's painfully obvious I'm never going to get around to making a set like you've done, I figure I'll have to bite the bullet and buy some mod'd arms. I'd really like to have a better setup (like a link setup) for more flex, but I doubt I'll ever want to invest that kind of money and time into more mods. So, mod'd radius arms will probably be it for me.
Clear as mud?
Very..... that said this would return your pinion angle back to the stock angle and your Caster angle to its original position and helping your steering.
What size tires are you running?
How are yours different from Rovertym including engineering and trail test time???
Just a question...
Older Land Cruiser owners see lots of comments when someone fabs stuff like "That looks like so & so's design." The fact is anyone making something functional and well designed doesn't have that many options to make it look unique to themselves unless they spend unproductive time on cosmetics adding no benefit.
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Chris in Florida
jimmy- if i owned a rover with a 3"+ lift i would get these arms as soon as possible. i know aaron has a pic somewhere of the difference between the stock rad arms and the corrected arms. the difference is huge like, 8"-10" of drop, and the overall movement of the arm feels much smoother.
I obviously made the wrong assumption. So, you're offering to make the arms vice selling a one-off set.
Are you set up to make just the one set of arms? Or is your jig (assuming you're using one) capable of being adjusted to make slightly different angled arms?
Since I don't need a set of arms that brings the pinion back to the original/factory position (which was intended for a standard driveshaft), then I suppose these aren't for me.
2 things happen when you lift a vehicle with radius arms.
1st the frame end of the radius arms binds as it is being pushed down due to the angle of the bushings not being correct.
2nd the caster and pinion angle are effected.
these arms in there current design correct all the on a vehicle raised 3"
it is advised that you also get caster corrected ball joints with the 5" kit.
I was just causing trouble and didnt mean to start crap...anybody that knows me knows that.
I do want to thank you for helping my buddy out with the transmision
Anyone know what the stock angle for the pinion on the D1/RRC is? As in, when I stick my magnetic angle finder on the flange, what would it read? I read somewhere that the outputs of the pinion and the t-case are not parallel on the D1... that the pinion is pointing up a bit stock. So, that just makes this a bit more annoying. I'd like to have a better idea of where these arms move the pinion to.