When I am Not Wheeling

March 7th, 2009

Here are some shots of one of the other sports I do besides wheeling. The guys that ice climb on the site will get a laugh out of them as the gear that I am using in the non icicle ones pre date Gore Tex by many years,and the hand tools, climbing gear, and crampons are antique. The gear really dates me. The ice axe is an original Chouinard bamboo shaft 70 cm and was last seen hanging on the wall of a friend's coffee shop in Empire. The hammer is actually a prototype Forest Mountaineering ice hammer and I was doing a little beta testing for him. The blue coat was a Chouinard Foam Back and I was beta testing that for Chouinard. The pants might have been, too, but I am not sure. Chouinard is the guy that founded Patagucci (Patagonia) and later sold Chouinard Equipment to his employees who started Black Diamond. I still know a few folks working there.

Two were taken in the early 70s and the icicle one was taken in 85 or 86 and was a fairly early ascent of what was one of the hardest climbs in the state 'back in the day'.

Other folks that know me will laugh as the pictures show me when I actually had a little hair..

Anyway, I came across these looking for some computer cables and I got a laugh...didn't look in the mirror to check the hair situation, though, I know what that's like....

March 7th, 2009

Very cool history!

I was going to get into it years ago but the cost of a guide and training was too steep for me.

Where in Colorado was that icicle pic taken?

**Pathrat** · March 7th, 2009

You have some very cool stories and pictures; a good history.

**Funrover** · March 7th, 2009

Damn man.. you never stop amazing me! IMPRESSIVE!

March 7th, 2009

Nice!

Ice climbing is something I have never tried. you make it look like fun though.

**Chris** · March 7th, 2009

Brody previously posted:

**Funrover** · March 7th, 2009

Nice!

March 7th, 2009

that is just insane but way freakin cool pete!!!!!:bow:

March 8th, 2009

Wow, great pics brody.

March 8th, 2009

The icicle picture is taken right on the outside of Vail on the south side of the road, just past the golf course. It is called 'The Fang' and is graded a 5 or 5+ depending on conditions. It sits just to the left of a much larger and much more solid formation called 'The Rigid Designator' which is graded a 4 or so. There are 4 ice climbs on this cliff band and a bunch of other mixed (rock and ice) climbs in the same area.

This was my 5th try at leading this thing and was successful. I had followed it twice before, once when there was a 2' gap at the top where it wasn't even attached, and bailed (read: chickened out, woosed out, weenied) 2 other times. A spooky climb as the thing flexes and moves a bit as you climb it. It has been known to fall down periodically with or without climbers on it. 1-2 people a year either die or seriously screwed up trying to climb it. It isn't your 'giveaway' climb..

The top picture is on the lower section of the Taylor Powell Ice Field in Rocky Mountain National Park. Almost the whole climb can be protected in the rock on the sides of the coulier and you only need a few ice screws for intermediate protection. It gets steeper and more technical as you get higher and the top reaches around 70 degrees. Similar to the Y Coulier on Mt Ypsilon , also in the Park, but more technical. A classic climb...It is also similar to the alpine ice climb that goes up right of the Flying Butress on Mt Meeker ( I forget the name) but that one is cooler as it twists and turns as you climb, is consistently steep, and very narrow...also a little more remote, which is cool....

The second picture is taken on one of the many chutes in Officer's Gulch, the canyon you drive through just before Copper Mountain. We later took this climb all the way up to the top of the ridge (Mt Royal, I think) making a 3300' mixed rock/ice/snow route that clocked in at Grade 3-4 Ice and 5.9-5.9+ R/X rock. Not something to fall on and not a giveaway as the rock protection sucked and the route was prone to avalanches. I did manage to take a 140' fall off the rock...after the actual hard section...and landed in the snow about 20' below my belayer, making about a 10' hole. Scared the s*** out of me , but did nothing besides knock my breath out and a few bruises. I got sorted out and went back up and we finished the climb. I remember that as not being one of my most stellar days as I was climbing wet having fallen in the river crossing it at about 5AM. We were climbing pretty fast as I wanted to try to stay warm and we were doing this as a one day route. One of those early experiences that let you know that Gore Tex isn't all it is cracked up to be, but pile clothing actually does dry out with body heat.....

Love the 'Easy Rider' picture, Chris...No wonder younger folks laugh at us sometimes....

**Chris** · March 8th, 2009

Learning to laugh at oneself is important.

March 8th, 2009

Damn Chris, that old black & white should be your avatar pic

**Chris** · March 8th, 2009

I've used it for that on other forums now & then.

Didn't want people here to think I was some "Easy Rider" wannabe. :lol:

**Pathrat** · March 8th, 2009

Chris previously posted:

**Chris** · March 8th, 2009

Pathrat previously posted:

**Pathrat** · March 8th, 2009

Chris previously posted:

**Chris** · March 8th, 2009

Pathrat previously posted:

**Pathrat** · March 8th, 2009

Chris previously posted:

**Chris** · March 9th, 2009

Pathrat previously posted:

**Pathrat** · March 10th, 2009

Chris previously posted:

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