JGRubicon previously posted:
"IDK why I thought down was ok. It makes sense that it wouldn't be.
It's just the weight of the axle components the the full weight of the vehicle.
I've seen people using limiting straps, but I really thought that was just to keep coil springs from falling out.
On a solid axle set-up, when one side is pushed up, the opposite side is forced down as part of the solid lever arm - it's not just the weight of the axle. You can pretty easily pull the piston through the bottom of the shock trashing the piston plate and bottom of housing.
As Jim is demonstrating, one big challenge of leaf spring lifts on old jeeps is that while the lift provides clearance for bigger tires, the wheel travel will often be limited by the shock. Extended shock mounts can really help - I'd like to put them on mine - but it's usually a cut off the old ones and weld in new. Adjusting the bump stop is usually the easiest way to protect the shock - it both limits up travel on one side, but with a solid axle, that will also limit droop on the opposite side so limit straps aren't needed. Due to the typical geometry of max tire stuff, the fulcrum point is usually closer to the stuffed tire, and the longer side is the droop side, and thus the droop is usually a bit more (along with typical jeep leaf spring shackle geometry allowing for more down travel in the shackle than up). Jim....in a perfect world, if you are maxed out at around 9" of travel, I'd shoot for closer to 4" up and 5" down as compared to the 3" up and 6" down that the current ones have.