Electric fan conversion (an anti-howto)

[Schmitty]

I hope this reaches y'all well. The mechanical fan may be well and good but it robs the motor of power having this rotational mass on the end of a crank pulley. By removing it we let the motor spin more freely and efficiently... here are my findings replacing it with an electric fan.

Overview:
I'm VERY impressed with how this turned out. The instructions for installing the module are dummy simple and if you have a basic understanding of electronics Power/Load/Ground hooking up the fan is as well. While my TJ never had heat issues before it's definitely not going to now and I'm all in favor of creating efficiencies... oh yeah, the "E" word. The motor spins more freely and I've noted with the ol' butt-dyno that it definitely benefits in the power department: my formerly tired-feeling 3.07 gears on 31s don't feel as sluggish and it's much quicker to get up to speed. As far as MPGs the jury is out at the moment on the account of some ignition tune-up related things, I was getting about 12-13mpg before.

Gotchas:
The fan controller kit comes with beefy wiring but maybe a foot shorter than I wanted and I will probably re-route the wiring at some point and solder connection points because crimped wire gives me the creeps.

Parts:
Ford Taurus or Lincoln Mark VIII or VII 90-95 model year (a three-wire fan)

Delta Current Control's FK45 variable fan controller
Some Perforated metal hanger strapping (for securing the fan to the radiator)
Sheet metal screws (use the one that holds the coolant overflow tank as reference and go to ACE hardware)
Soldering iron if you want or a crimper for the wire-end loops.

I didn't take many pictures of trimming up the fan housing but here's some pictures for reference of how I attached
it to the radiator.

Clearance with the old mechanical fan bolts.



Mounting to the radiator.



It's a downflow radiator so mounting it as close to the inlet at the top is ideal.



Mounting the module (with supplied sheet metal screws), the diagram shipped isn't 100% accurate but it gives you very clear reference for connections.



Using the multimeter to verify temp settings, set to about 190* considering the reading. I later went back and set it to 180* (which it is how it's set out of the box).

[Jim]

Looks nice!

(perhaps I missed it) where / how did you get the temp reading for the motor controller?

Ah, got it - the temp sensor is the type that fits in between the fins of the radiator - near a desirable temp area??


edit: Poking about a bit

Controller web page:
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm

FK45 Instructions download (PDF):
http://www.dccontrol.com/FK45.pdf

[The StRanger]

OK. Time for the devils advocate....
Soldering or crimping....aircraft repair will not allow soldering caus the heat changes the structure of the wire and gives the wire a bigger chance of wire fault under vibration they are Esther hot crimp or preferably replace...

[Jim]

The StRanger previously posted:

[The StRanger]

I’d have to find it but It’s a crimp style connection that has soft alloy rings.
make the connection like a cringe but a heat gun seals the connection with the alloy and shrinks the sealer.
if you want to put on a second shrink fit ya can, but it’s not needed.
where I like water, I use the second sealer

[Jim]

Ah, I have heard of those. Thx.

[The StRanger]

YouTube has them listed as Heat Shrink Solder Connecting

[speedkills]

I'm the same way, prefer crimp if there is vibration over solder by a mile, but if there is solder I like it covered with a semi-rigid heat shrink, not the soft stuff.

[Schmitty]

Jim previously posted: