I (also) bought a TJ

[Steve-O]

You're right it was Ch 20, not 21! Yup I was just listening. And it's currently parked in my garage facing west, so the windshield it to the north, I might drive around my block today at 5 and see what changes based upon my orientation

[Steve-O]

Safelite replacing the cracked windshield today! Not a bad deal, 10% off with AAA. Best part is I don't have to get up

[Steve-O]

Anybody with a TJ/LJ Rubicon ever drop the skid plate to remove the transmission? What did you do about the diff locker compressors? I really don't want to disconnect it all (2 little hoses and 2 electrical connectors for each compressor, I'm basically guaranteed to break one of the red connector locks or one of the plastic nipples trying to get a hose off). I think if I try and hang the whole assembly up on zip ties it will get it the way when it's time to pull the transmission out...

[FINOCJ]

Yes... disconnect the hoses and electrical plugs...clean first and be gentle but not that big of a deal. A soft toothbrush helps clean up stuff so it easier to work the connectors free. I spray an electrical connector cleaner first...kind of like brake cleaner but won't damage plastic.

This stuff
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Steve-O]

So uh, I think my pilot bearing puller just pulled out more than it's supposed to. I believe I pulled out the pilot bushing along with the pilot bearing (left). No idea how to separate these two and my kit only came with a new bearing (right)

This is quickly becoming the project from hell. Going on two weeks now because I work 60-70 hrs a week, only have a little time on the weekends, now I've been sick the last 3 days. 🤬

[FINOCJ]

I believe your flywheel is fine (a standard resurface as part of a clutch job might be needed)...those pieces are all part of the pilot bearing. It's uses a kind of weird large bearing instead of the traditional small pilot bushing/bearing like supplied in your kit.

[Paul]

If it was me I'd replace the flywheel with a LUK one and get a National throwout bearing with the steel cage instead of the plastic cage OEM style. I had a similar experience doing my clutch, PITA from start to finish.

[Steve-O]

Thanks for the quick replies. Ok so crown/omix sell the larger bearing/bushing thing, just ordered one and should be here tomorrow. Doesn't seem like LuK really sent me the right thing in the kit. Last question is how the new one will go in? I read your supposed to just press/tap it in dry. What's the yellow gunk on the back of this thing?

And yea Paul I regret everything CNS Transmission did an amazing job for a good price on the YJ's clutch, not sure why I felt compelled to do this myself. I may consider the additional parts, don't really want to drag this project out any longer...

[FINOCJ]

There are quite few different pilot bearings used behind the 4.0, and even in the TJ series as some different transmissions. Looks like the kit got it mixed up. A bearing would typically be lubed on the interior but pressed in dry on the outside so the outer race doesn't turn inside the flywheel recess. I'd put the bearing in the freezer, put heat on the flywheel and then drive it in.

[Steve-O]

So I got the Jeep all back together, started it up and it sounds great, no rattling sound from the bellhousing. Only problem is I can't shift into any gear with the engine running. There is what feels like good tension in the clutch pedal, I have no idea what could have gone wrong. Please help me

Praying that maybe my slave cylinder decided to die while I had it out

[Paul]

I'd guess your slave cylinder isn't seated correctly; I'm basing that guess on the replacement ones coming with a plastic retainer on the end that you have to leave on when you install it, it breaks when you press the pedal the first time and seats the rod. IDK how you can seat it correctly if you reuse the old slave (not that it can't be done, just not by me) so possibly if you reused the old one and ofcourse didn't have a new plastic retainer it might not have seated correctly.

[Steve-O]

Thanks Paul, I'll pull that put again and check. Also side note for troubleshooting, the Jeep definitely doesn't start without pressing the clutch pedal

[TjSteveA]

Check your transfer case make sure it didn’t pop into neutral. Mine did that when I did my clutch and I couldn’t figure out till I looked at the transfer case rod on the body.

[Paul]

Steve-O previously posted:

[Steve-O]

Confirmed the slave cylinder is seating correctly in the clutch fork. I'm really quite certain I put the clutch disk on facing the proper way ("plateau" facing the pressure plate), but I suppose there's a non-zero probability I still screwed it up. If I drove in the pilot bearing too far, or not far enough, could this be causing my problem? Is there any reason I would need to adjust the clutch pedal after a new clutch install? I didn't think that was necessary with a hydraulic system

Also Steve thanks for that I'll check that as well.

[Steve-O]

Doing some research and coming up empty. Did have a bright idea to pull the starter and take a look inside using a cheap $20 borescope. I'll have my wife push the clutch in and see if everything is moving properly. Also should be able to see if I put the clutch disk in backwards. But that will have to wait, wife and I are going to Mexico for her birthday. After that is a work trip. Hopefully I'll have the Jeep ready to go in time for Hole in the Rock in May 😅