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Thread: 2011 AMG G55 Build

  1. #241
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Packing up for a holiday trip to California today but I took a short break from packing to try to figure out how my locker switch works so I could remove it and integrate it with my power distribution module, if possible.

    Here is what I came up with:


    Pin 1: Hot
    Pin 2: Hot when in low range
    Pin 3: Ground
    Pin 4: 7v when no locks requested, .5v when any locks are requested
    Pin 5: Jumpered to Pin 1, Hot
    Pin 6: Ground
    Pin 7: Unused
    Pin 8: 7v when no locks engaged, .5v when any locks engaged
    Pin 9: Hot when center lock requested
    Pin 10: Hot when rear lock requested
    Pin 11: Hot when front lock requested
    Pin 12: Hot when center lock disengaged, .5v when engaged
    Pin 13: Hot when rear lock disengaged, .5v when engaged
    Pin 14: Hot when front lock disengaged, .5v when engaged


    So overall this should be easy to emulate with my pdm, the one bit I am missing right now is something that can output .5v or 7v to signal if the lockers are engaged or requested. Not sure how to do that at the moment. If it was just 7v I could do a 12v to 7v step down converter, but the fact that I need to switch between two voltages makes it a little trickier. I'm sure there is a component out there that does what I need, just don't know what it is called at the moment to search for it.


    The voltages when the lockers are engaged vs disengaged is a bit surprising to me as well, I didn't expect the 12v to .5v high/low type signaling but then again I have zero electrical background so I may be misunderstanding the system.

  2. #242
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Someone on another forum explained to me why pins 12, 13, and 14 are 12v, then go to .5v when the lockers are engaged, it is because they go to ground when the lockers engage and I am just picking up a little bit of stray voltage going through the volt meter to get to ground.

  3. #243
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Not really build thread material, but days like this are why I built this rig so I'm posting it up anyway.


















  4. The Following Member Says Thanks to speedkills For This Post:

    TDash (January 17th, 2022)

  5. #244
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Switzerland? I was out there this morning with the kids...just cruisin through Gordon and Switz.

    J.
    ___________
    05 4Runner Sport - 3" lift, 35s & v8 POWA!

  6. #245
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Gordon Gulch.

  7. #246
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    speedkills previously posted:
    "Gordon Gulch."

    thanks for plowing for us!

    J.
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    05 4Runner Sport - 3" lift, 35s & v8 POWA!

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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Finally got around to installing the leather steering wheel I picked up on ebay for $150. what a difference, I wish I had this months ago. I dislike any wood in a car's interior, but the wood on the steering wheel was the worst since I actually had to hold it for hours on end. I wonder if many people prefer the wood wheels to leather or if it's just for looks?



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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    I am all for good wood....
          
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    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon

  10. The Following Member Says Thanks to FINOCJ For This Post:

    Schmitty (February 10th, 2022)

  11. #249
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    My palms get sweaty just looking at that wheel.

  12. #250
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    I had to remove the 5 gallon air tank I had installed between my frame rails, it ended up rubbing the driveshaft at full compression.





    I put a 2 gallon tank I had on instead, then mounted my air solenoids near the tank and ran larger 3/8" internal diameter lines to match the 3/8" solenoids. This really made airing up and down faster, airing down now is limited by the rate air can exit through the two 3/8" exit ports, and the speed my compressor can pull air in front it's 3/8" intake I think. Initial airing up from the tank is super fast, but that runs out in 5-10s so it isn't large enough compared to the tires to do much but for small adjustments of a couple psi it's only a few seconds, after that I'm on the compressor and it slows down to a more normal speed, but still goes from 0-35psi in all four 38" tires in 5 minutes which is slower than I'd like, but good enough.


    When my truck got broken into they stole the spod I was going to use to control the solenoids, for now I just stopped by a low-rider shop and picked up an old school switch box used for air-bags and I'm liking it. Eventually I'll program a touchscreen interface to replace my locker switches and have that control air bags too so I can just select a pressure and have it air up or down until it hits the preset, but at the moment I'm having fun with the switch box so I may leave it for a few months.


    I also hooked up individual pressure sensors and put them on my auxiliary display, then set my power distribution unit up to turn my onboard compressor on when I hold the DSC off button for 3 seconds. I'll probably switch this to just turn once the engine has been running for a few seconds eventually but I haven't yet learned how to decode rpm on my canbus which I need to do so I can determine if the engine is started. This works for now though, I hold the button for 3 seconds then I enable the compressor and show "compressor: ON" on the dash, plus the 4 individual tire pressures. The separate pressures per tire is nice as before they were all interconnected and would self-level to the same pressure but I prefer to run the rear tires 10-20% higher pressure than the front.




    I'm going to raise the water separator up a few inches, I don't like how low it sits right now but I'm happy with the general location.



    Air solenoids and tank before installing air lines





    This makes getting quickly to 2psi easy which is what I use to get in and out of my garage. At 2psi I think this almost qualifies as a half-track.



  13. The Following Member Says Thanks to speedkills For This Post:

    TDash (February 3rd, 2022)

  14. #251
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    nice work, Shane!

    J.
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  15. The Following Member Says Thanks to jayson44 For This Post:

    speedkills (February 3rd, 2022)

  16. #252
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    I've done the shocks and springs before on my G but they were stock length so I didn't have too much to worry about. This time I'm going a bit beyond what I have seen other G-Wagen owners do by fitting longer softer springs, and Jeep shocks so I decided to turn it over to a 4x4 shop (John's 4x4 in Boulder) as I just didn't feel I was setup to properly check all clearances and didn't want to end up with rubbing, or worse a coil or driveshaft falling out.

    I stopped by the shop today to drop off some limit straps I forgot to give them when I dropped my G off and they were just finishing up the front springs and shocks which were a bolt on affair and everything just barely clears. The difference in articulation is huge, I was pretty surprised by it actually. Can't wait to see the flex after the rear shocks and springs are fitted.


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    Tom (February 9th, 2022)

  18. #253
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    DANG!

    J.
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Very nice !!!
    ___________
    In a never ending search for the proper mix of dirt & rock !

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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    NSFW.

    Nice.

  21. #256
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    But can it handle the infamous "Target parking rock"?

    https://denverite.com/2017/02/21/the...that-stranded/

  22. #257
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Is it taller than a Saab?


  23. #258
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Probably it is now that you've parked on top of the Saab. Only way to be sure is to go parking rock hunting.

  24. #259
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Throw up a run on the calendar for this weekend at the Target Off-Road Center and I'll be there.

  25. #260
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    Default Re: 2011 AMG G55 Build



    Picked my G up today and checked out the flex. The limit of picking up the rear wasn’t a second tire lifting, it was stuffing my front wheel too far into the fender. Wouldn’t be an issue with 37” tires. The rear fenders cleared just fine.


    40” under the tire front and rear, pretty sure that’s about the same as the unimog.


















  26. The Following Member Says Thanks to speedkills For This Post:

    CarlBolanos (February 20th, 2022)

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