Old School Mechanic in Denver Area

[cbauer210]

Hey There,

I'm just wondering if anyone could recommend a solid mechanic in the Denver area to help me fix a persistent leak that my 81' AMC 304 CJ7 has. I spent the last year restoring this jeep but just don't have the time to work on it right now. I really just need to get this one leak sorted. I believe it's either the rear main seal, a valve cover, or transfer case that is slowly dripping/leaking oil. I'd love to find a trustworthy local mechanic that know's these old drivetrains well. Any reccomendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[open_circuit]

I wonder if FINOCJ wants to hang a shingle and do stuff like this. He's the resident old iron glutton.

[FINOCJ]

Thanks Trent - I am not sure anyone wants me trying to seal up oil leaks. I have been working on the 58 for over a year trying to keep the leak under control. And the 70 leaks from the transfercase (which leaked on the dealer floor when new), but hopefully I got some of oil leak on the 70 taken care of with the oil pump work....Hasn't leaked yet, but hasn't been driven much. The old engines build up crankcase pressure at high rpm (even when the piston rings are decent) and it just pushes oil out of any weak spot.

To the OP, I am happy to help give a hand, but if you are interested in a mechanic, I might recommend Jacobs Service Center I don't know where you are in the metro, but its slightly southeast Denver. If I decide I can't do the work myself - which is often on our DDs - then this is where I go.
https://jacobsservicecenter.com/

[derf]

I've done the rear main seal on about half a dozen AMC V8s over the years. It's not rocket surgery but it's a pain. That's something I'd take to a mechanic unless I was pulling the motor to work on it.

One thing to check is the valve covers themselves. Pull them and look at the condition of the gaskets at the bolts. #1 most common thing I've seen is people who over tighten the bolts. This crushes the gasket, causing a tear and a leak, and it bends the thin metal in the cover. To fix it, you pull the cover, use a hammer to flatten out the steel, get new gaskets, then get an inch-pound torque wrench and torque them properly to 50 inch-pounds (that's less than 5 foot pounds). If you want, you can put a very thin smear of RTV on the gasket surfaces just for good measure. But don't over-torque them or you get leaks.

[cbauer210]

Thanks guys...I just gave Jacobs a ring and will see if they can track that down. I had already replaced the valve covers and gaskets, which helped a little bit, but didn't fully stop the drips. Hopefully they can get to the bottom if it and I can put this to rest once and for all. It's probably good to have an actual mechanic give this rig a good once over anyway. Thanks!

[Java]

www.hotchkissauto.com I've had a couple of good experiences with these guys.