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Thread: Steven's '93 YJ

  1. #1
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    Default Steven's '93 YJ



    Starting a thread to document maintenance/mods on the Little Red Wagon (stock '93 YJ w/5spd and 4 banger). This will serve as a maintenance record for me and hopefully someone else new can learn something. I only started working on my own cars since picking up the YJ this May, so the learning curve will be apparent. Looking forward to your suggestions/advice as I go along.

    A list of projects that will hopefully be started in the next year or so:

    Replace transfer case extension housing and seal
    Convert rear pinion yoke from "straps" to "U bolts"
    Install rock sliders
    Replace shocks
    Replace ball joints
    Replace U joints
    Fix passenger door lock cylinder connection
    Replace engine valve cover gasket
    Some body work/fixing rust patches
    Tearing out carpet and lining the tub
    Install air conditioning (maybe)
    Rear drum brake to disc brake conversion (big maybe)

    ___________
    Steven
    United States Space Force
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

  2. The Following 3 Members Say Thanks to Steve-O For This Post:

    FINOCJ (3 Weeks Ago),Jaycifer (2 Weeks Ago),Tom (3 Weeks Ago)

  3. #2
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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Looking forward to hearing your experience on modding and maintaining your YJ!

  4. The Following Member Says Thanks to tirefoamcan For This Post:

    Steve-O (1 Week Ago)

  5. #3
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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Hey everybody, I had some free time and have been able to get after some projects. TL;DR I attempted a small mod, it went a little haywire, and I made a questionable fix, looking for feedback.

    PART 1
    Those at the trail clean-up probably heard me whining about my transfer case extension housing seal leaking all over the place (softball size puddles of ATF on the ground after 1 week...). I had previously replaced the seal itself twice before to no avail. Here you can see some ATF piling up at the bottom edge of the seal against the slip yoke. Also you can see some ancient RTV hanging down from the base of the extension housing, and on the right you can barely see some of the ATF that was slung onto my muffler. There was much more than that...


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    I read on another forum that there is a bushing inside the extension housing, and that if it gets worn out that can be the root cause of the leak. I grabbed the slip yoke and, sure enough, was able to wiggle it quite a bit side to side. There are some videos on how to replace the bushing, but they require a bench vice and a bit of precision, neither of which I possess. I opted to buy a whole new extension housing with the bushing in it. $40 amazon prime to my door in 2 days. Nice! Bought another seal, tapped that in there with help from the ol' Linear Persuasion Tool (rubber mallet), and sealed up the edge with some RTV.

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    Took off the old extension housing, the old RTV was basically gone and the whole thing dang near fell off. Got the mating surface nice and clean and inspected the output shaft...good shape!

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    Put some RTV on the new extension housing, blue threadlocker on the three bolts, a little grease on the inside of the new seal, let it all set before putting the driveshaft back in. It's been over a week of driving and I haven't seen one drip out of it! Hallelujah!

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    PART 2
    While I had the rear driveshaft out, I chose to mod my U joint restraints on the pinion yoke from the strap/screw style to the U-bolt style. One of the screw threads for one of the straps had been completed crossthreaded by the PO, and I was worried about its strength (on what I've read can be a part prone to epic failure). Before picture:

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    A bit of research online made it seem pretty easy: drill out of the holes with 5/16 bit, throw in the U-bolts. I bought a DrillBlock to help me drill straight. Highly recommend this product.

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    One hole down, 3 to go!

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    And now to throw in the new U bolts (Dorman part #81004)

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    Uh oh, that's about as far as I could get them to go down at first. Upon some deep googling (and a frantic DM to David @JandDGreens), apparently having to do some grinding is not uncommon. The size of the U joint, and therefore their caps, varies in the early 90s Wranglers. My '93 has the smaller U joint with 1.026 inch caps. It turns out the mod guides I read were for the larger U joints 1.125 inch caps. Dorman makes another U bolt kit for the 1.026 inch caps, but the legs of those bolts would not be wide enough for the holes I just drilled. Great So I got to work gently drilling out of the holes a little more and grinding down the sides of the U bolts so they would fit in.

    So here's where it gets to the "I hope I didn't screw this up bad" point and I'd like to hear your feedback. I set those U-bolts as far down as I could after hours of grinding a little and checking, grinding a little and checking -- the bolts still weren't seated perfectly against the U joint caps. They seemed to make contact in some areas and not others, which was strange. I ended up smearing a thin layer of RTV on the inside face of the U bolt, *let it dry completely*, and then put them in and tightened it down. They now make snug contact with the U joint caps. I am going to keep an eye on them to make sure the RTV doesn't become dislodged and come flying out. The picture makes it look like there is a ton of RTV in there -- there really isn't, it's just a thin layer.

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    Thanks for reading comments welcome! Tomorrow I will be fixing the passenger door lock and posting that, hopefully that will go smoother
    ___________
    Steven
    United States Space Force
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

  6. #4
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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    If you haven't already, take it for a spin and see if you picked up any vibes. If you decide you don't like the results you can always replace the yoke. Otherwise keep up the good work!

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    If it where me, and I can easily see myself making that mistake and learning about the different sized u joints the hard way, I would replace the yoke and get the proper ujoints for it.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  8. #6
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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    @Brian I've been driving it around, no vibes (at least no more than were there to start with ) and the RTV is still holding on. Despite this, I think James is probably right. I still have one trick up my sleeve. Bought one of these girdle-style U joint straps that should solve the issue I'm having. Fingers crossed
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    ___________
    Steven
    United States Space Force
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Those look much better than the other ones.

  10. #8
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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Had some more time to work on the Jeep, opted for an indoor project because of all the smoke. The passenger door lock cylinder wasn't working so I decided to get after it. I suspected the rod connecting the cylinder to the lock assembly had come undone at one or both ends. I know it's not tremendously secure when you drive a soft top vehicle, but I like things to work. All the christmas tree clips on the door panel needed replacing anyway.

    PART1
    Remove door handle, pop out window retainer inserts, remove door panel using trim removal tool or screwdriver with a rag around it.

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    Remove e-clip on the lock cylinder. This one is halfway off when I thought "oh I should take a picture". Arm piece under the e-clip slides off.

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    This is the other end of the rod in the previous picture. Clearly the plastic clip broke off at the lock assembly end. After replacing the clip (Dorman sells an assortment of Door Lock Rod Clips), I couldn't get that end into the assembly without seeing what I was doing or where it went. Decided to take out the assembly and take the opportunity to clean and lubricate it.

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    Next to disconnect the rest of the rods that connect to the lock assembly. This one for the exterior door handle was easier to detach at the lock assembly end. The other two that connect to the interior door handle are easier to disconnect at the door handle end (not pictured).

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    Undo the three screws holding the assembly in, one is hiding under the weatherstrip.

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    I couldn't get the lock assembly around the exterior door handle and it's rod, so out it went. Pulled out the assembly (with it's two long rods that connect to the interior door handle), hit it with some brake cleaner and a wire brush. Re-lubed and reassembled and works great! Put new christmas tree clips on the door panel so that doesn't rattle anymore. Did the same for the driver's side the next day. I have about 20 of those christmas tree clips left if anybody needs them (compatible with CJ7/8 and YJ).

    PART 2

    I also decided to get after the center console lock cylinder. It doesn't work with any of the keys that the PO gave me, which is bizarre, and needed to be rekeyed. Also I've already had one pair of mechanic's gloves stolen out of the YJ, so I'd like some place relatively safe to put things like that (obviously I don't leave any valuables in it).

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    Lock cylinder housing can be removed from the center console cover by taking out the screw in the bottom, and pulling the two pieces of the housing apart (shown back together in the above photo). Now for the fun part, getting the lock cylinder out of the housing. Above you can see a small hole. Sticking a pin or a paper clip in this hole allows you to press down on a spring-loaded retainer that holds the cylinder in. You need to simultaneously press it down and turn the cylinder, key-in, counterclockwise in order to remove it.
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    It's a lot easier if you have a key that works for the lock Fortunately, all Jeep keys are similar enough to wear I was able to jiggle the tumblers like crazy while pressing the retainer down with a paperclip -- out it came!

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    The lock had three tumbler wafers in it and four slots. Wafers were pretty grimy and took some pushing on the underside to get them out. Be sure not to lose the little springs. I didn't buy any extra wafers because they, as far as I've seen, only come in large packs; so all I was able to do was rearrange them to work for my key -- the #1 wafer shown above did not fit anywhere so he got left out. Obviously, when the key is in all the wafers should be flush so the cylinder can turn. The one you see sticking up is the retaining tumbler (the one you need to press down with the paper clip) and is not affected by the key, so there is not an issue on reassembly.

    *If anybody has any extra #1-4 tumbler wafers like the one shown above (they're the same for Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, etc.) I would be interested!*
    ___________
    Steven
    United States Space Force
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

  11. The Following 2 Members Say Thanks to Steve-O For This Post:

    Brian (1 Week Ago),Tom (1 Week Ago)

  12. #9
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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Nice write up!

  13. The Following Member Says Thanks to Brian For This Post:

    Steve-O (1 Week Ago)

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