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Thread: Steven's '93 YJ

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    Default Steven's '93 YJ



    Starting a thread to document maintenance/mods on the Little Red Wagon (stock '93 YJ w/5spd and 4 banger). This will serve as a maintenance record for me and hopefully someone else new can learn something. I only started working on my own cars since picking up the YJ this May, so the learning curve will be apparent. Looking forward to your suggestions/advice as I go along.

    A list of projects that will hopefully be started in the next year or so:

    Replace transfer case extension housing and seal *complete*
    Convert rear pinion yoke from "straps" to "U bolts" *complete*
    Install rock sliders
    Replace shocks *complete*
    Replace ball joints
    Replace U joints
    Replace transmission mount
    Chase down rough idle issue *ongoing*
    Fix passenger door lock cylinder connection *complete*
    Replace engine valve cover gasket *complete*
    Some body work/fixing rust patches *ongoing*
    New tires
    Install air conditioning (probably)
    Install sway bar quick disconnect *complete*
    Install hand throttle


    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    FINOCJ (September 27th, 2020),Jaycifer (October 2nd, 2020),Tom (September 27th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Looking forward to hearing your experience on modding and maintaining your YJ!

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    Steve-O (October 6th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Hey everybody, I had some free time and have been able to get after some projects. TL;DR I attempted a small mod, it went a little haywire, and I made a questionable fix, looking for feedback.

    PART 1
    Those at the trail clean-up probably heard me whining about my transfer case extension housing seal leaking all over the place (softball size puddles of ATF on the ground after 1 week...). I had previously replaced the seal itself twice before to no avail. Here you can see some ATF piling up at the bottom edge of the seal against the slip yoke. Also you can see some ancient RTV hanging down from the base of the extension housing, and on the right you can barely see some of the ATF that was slung onto my muffler. There was much more than that...


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    I read on another forum that there is a bushing inside the extension housing, and that if it gets worn out that can be the root cause of the leak. I grabbed the slip yoke and, sure enough, was able to wiggle it quite a bit side to side. There are some videos on how to replace the bushing, but they require a bench vice and a bit of precision, neither of which I possess. I opted to buy a whole new extension housing with the bushing in it. $40 amazon prime to my door in 2 days. Nice! Bought another seal, tapped that in there with help from the ol' Linear Persuasion Tool (rubber mallet), and sealed up the edge with some RTV.

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    Took off the old extension housing, the old RTV was basically gone and the whole thing dang near fell off. Got the mating surface nice and clean and inspected the output shaft...good shape!

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    Put some RTV on the new extension housing, blue threadlocker on the three bolts, a little grease on the inside of the new seal, let it all set before putting the driveshaft back in. It's been over a week of driving and I haven't seen one drip out of it! Hallelujah!

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    PART 2
    While I had the rear driveshaft out, I chose to mod my U joint restraints on the pinion yoke from the strap/screw style to the U-bolt style. One of the screw threads for one of the straps had been completed crossthreaded by the PO, and I was worried about its strength (on what I've read can be a part prone to epic failure). Before picture:

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    A bit of research online made it seem pretty easy: drill out of the holes with 5/16 bit, throw in the U-bolts. I bought a DrillBlock to help me drill straight. Highly recommend this product.

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    One hole down, 3 to go!

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    And now to throw in the new U bolts (Dorman part #81004)

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    Uh oh, that's about as far as I could get them to go down at first. Upon some deep googling (and a frantic DM to David @JandDGreens), apparently having to do some grinding is not uncommon. The size of the U joint, and therefore their caps, varies in the early 90s Wranglers. My '93 has the smaller U joint with 1.026 inch caps. It turns out the mod guides I read were for the larger U joints 1.125 inch caps. Dorman makes another U bolt kit for the 1.026 inch caps, but the legs of those bolts would not be wide enough for the holes I just drilled. Great So I got to work gently drilling out of the holes a little more and grinding down the sides of the U bolts so they would fit in.

    So here's where it gets to the "I hope I didn't screw this up bad" point and I'd like to hear your feedback. I set those U-bolts as far down as I could after hours of grinding a little and checking, grinding a little and checking -- the bolts still weren't seated perfectly against the U joint caps. They seemed to make contact in some areas and not others, which was strange. I ended up smearing a thin layer of RTV on the inside face of the U bolt, *let it dry completely*, and then put them in and tightened it down. They now make snug contact with the U joint caps. I am going to keep an eye on them to make sure the RTV doesn't become dislodged and come flying out. The picture makes it look like there is a ton of RTV in there -- there really isn't, it's just a thin layer.

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    Thanks for reading comments welcome! Tomorrow I will be fixing the passenger door lock and posting that, hopefully that will go smoother
    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    If you haven't already, take it for a spin and see if you picked up any vibes. If you decide you don't like the results you can always replace the yoke. Otherwise keep up the good work!

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    If it where me, and I can easily see myself making that mistake and learning about the different sized u joints the hard way, I would replace the yoke and get the proper ujoints for it.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    @Brian I've been driving it around, no vibes (at least no more than were there to start with ) and the RTV is still holding on. Despite this, I think James is probably right. I still have one trick up my sleeve. Bought one of these girdle-style U joint straps that should solve the issue I'm having. Fingers crossed
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    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Those look much better than the other ones.

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Had some more time to work on the Jeep, opted for an indoor project because of all the smoke. The passenger door lock cylinder wasn't working so I decided to get after it. I suspected the rod connecting the cylinder to the lock assembly had come undone at one or both ends. I know it's not tremendously secure when you drive a soft top vehicle, but I like things to work. All the christmas tree clips on the door panel needed replacing anyway.

    PART1
    Remove door handle, pop out window retainer inserts, remove door panel using trim removal tool or screwdriver with a rag around it.

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    Remove e-clip on the lock cylinder. This one is halfway off when I thought "oh I should take a picture". Arm piece under the e-clip slides off.

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    This is the other end of the rod in the previous picture. Clearly the plastic clip broke off at the lock assembly end. After replacing the clip (Dorman sells an assortment of Door Lock Rod Clips), I couldn't get that end into the assembly without seeing what I was doing or where it went. Decided to take out the assembly and take the opportunity to clean and lubricate it.

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    Next to disconnect the rest of the rods that connect to the lock assembly. This one for the exterior door handle was easier to detach at the lock assembly end. The other two that connect to the interior door handle are easier to disconnect at the door handle end (not pictured).

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    Undo the three screws holding the assembly in, one is hiding under the weatherstrip.

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    I couldn't get the lock assembly around the exterior door handle and it's rod, so out it went. Pulled out the assembly (with it's two long rods that connect to the interior door handle), hit it with some brake cleaner and a wire brush. Re-lubed and reassembled and works great! Put new christmas tree clips on the door panel so that doesn't rattle anymore. Did the same for the driver's side the next day. I have about 20 of those christmas tree clips left if anybody needs them (compatible with CJ7/8 and YJ).

    PART 2

    I also decided to get after the center console lock cylinder. It doesn't work with any of the keys that the PO gave me, which is bizarre, and needed to be rekeyed. Also I've already had one pair of mechanic's gloves stolen out of the YJ, so I'd like some place relatively safe to put things like that (obviously I don't leave any valuables in it).

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    Lock cylinder housing can be removed from the center console cover by taking out the screw in the bottom, and pulling the two pieces of the housing apart (shown back together in the above photo). Now for the fun part, getting the lock cylinder out of the housing. Above you can see a small hole. Sticking a pin or a paper clip in this hole allows you to press down on a spring-loaded retainer that holds the cylinder in. You need to simultaneously press it down and turn the cylinder, key-in, counterclockwise in order to remove it.
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    It's a lot easier if you have a key that works for the lock Fortunately, all Jeep keys are similar enough to wear I was able to jiggle the tumblers like crazy while pressing the retainer down with a paperclip -- out it came!

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    The lock had three tumbler wafers in it and four slots. Wafers were pretty grimy and took some pushing on the underside to get them out. Be sure not to lose the little springs. I didn't buy any extra wafers because they, as far as I've seen, only come in large packs; so all I was able to do was rearrange them to work for my key -- the #1 wafer shown above did not fit anywhere so he got left out. Obviously, when the key is in all the wafers should be flush so the cylinder can turn. The one you see sticking up is the retaining tumbler (the one you need to press down with the paper clip) and is not affected by the key, so there is not an issue on reassembly.

    *If anybody has any extra #1-4 tumbler wafers like the one shown above (they're the same for Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, etc.) I would be interested!*
    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Brian (October 12th, 2020),Tom (October 12th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Nice write up!

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    Steve-O (October 12th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Put some new shocks on the YJ! Went with Rancho RS5000X series shocks, I'm not a hard-core wheeler and got a great deal on them. Two of the old ones were rust welded on, so I'm the proud owner of an angle grinder/cutoff tool (oh, and an impact gun but that was a long time coming). As you can see, the shocks were in rough shape, I could compress them easily with one hand. They're definitely OEM, I wonder if they are actually the original 27 y/o shocks.... new Ranchos look purdy and I can tell the difference already!
            
    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Good to have that done - before the weather chills down too!

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    I've run Rancho RSX shocks a couple of times on my XJs. They are a decent basic shock.
    ___________
    2001 XJ 4.0/AW4/NP242/HP30/D44 on 32s with TrueTracs,
    1987 MJ 4.0 (or 4.6)/AW4/ORD Monster Box/NP205/HP60/D80 on 40's with ARBs (that's the plan anyway, ETA 2022)

    If you can't fix it with a hammer or duct tape you have an electrical problem

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    More projects! I wanted to replace the lugs on my battery cables. The positive lug was beat to hell and the negative lug had had a cheap fix done to it by the PO which left copper wire exposed. I bought a Fastronix kit on Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and am very happy with the quality. The kit comes with everything you need to upgrade your battery cables including marine shrink-wrap and durable terminal covers. Here's the old ones:

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    And the new:

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    Love the clean look!

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    Secondly, I've been experiencing a bit of a rough idle. Things are best when first starting the Jeep, it idles around 850-900 RPM and sounds smooth. After driving and having the engine warm up, it will idle lower, maybe around 600 RPM and it sounds and feels like it is surging a bit, though the tach stays constant. After some research I decided to try cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve.

    Before the TB cleaning, definitely thought it would be worse:

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    Before cleaning the IAC valve:

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    After the cleaning. The end piece still looks pretty tarnished...

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    Unfortunately the improvement to the rough idle was negligible. I'm wondering if I should replace the IAC (and possibly the TPS and MAP sensor while I'm at it?)
    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Terminals look good. I'd replace the IAC for sure, you're right there and they are not expensive. None of the sensors are expensive either, and with the age of the vehicle it kind of makes sense just to avoid future issues with them.

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    Steve-O (November 20th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    I've had a pretty good leak coming out of the front of the valve cover for a while, finally had time to replace the gasket. Here's what the leaky area looked like:

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    Took a lot of time to clean that up while not getting gunk on the belt and everywhere else. Unhooked the throttle line to get that out of the way and removed a couple hoses, a few taps with a rubber mallet and the valve cover came off without much of a fight.

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    Scraped up the old cork casket and RTV with a plastic scraper and did my best to clean both mating surfaces. I bought a molded rubber gasket (Omix-Ada part #17477.14). Took some fussing to get it lined up under the valve cover, then torqued it down to 55 in lbs, starting from the center of the cover and working out.

    PART 2

    Replaced IAC valve and cleaned out the area of the throttle body that it goes into. No improvement to the rough idle after getting up to operating temp. For that reason it makes me think there might be something wrong with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Maybe it's sending a bad reading to the ECU? I looked at the pigtail coming out of it, and lo and behold one of the wires is striped down and rusting (you can actually see this in my first photo). Going to replace the pigtail and see what happens. Also, there is a screw under the throttle lever that I can adjust to increase the idle speed (I wouldn't mind it idling a little higher at low temp as well). Is there any caution against doing this?

    PART 3

    What I believe is my power steering (and not another part of the steering linkage) has gotten very noisy. I'm sure it's always been this way, but maybe more pronounced now in the cold. It makes a considerable groan/whine. I tried flushing the PS fluid (lazy turkey baster method), bleeding the system, and tightening up the hose clamps. No dice. Here's what it sounds like, I'm turning the wheel back and forth in the video, faster towards the end (you can see part of the steering column rotating in the bottom right of the screen). Should I be worried? Any suggestions? Does the PS pump need to be replaced?



    All that plus an oil change and my day was done!
    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    I'd wait until the repair is done before raising the idle, then see if you need it. I doubt a little adjustment there would hurt anything, it is what the screw is for. Sounds like your PS pump is old but functioning, personally I'd put it on my list and replace it whenever the opportunity hits. A rebuilt one is pretty cheap, not too hard to replace.

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    Had an interesting encounter today. Wanted to take advantage of this nice weather and take the Wrangler to the self wash. I get in and it barely starts after having no problems all weekend RPMs were extremely low and it shuddered as it tried to start, had to give it some gas to get the engine going. The RPMs then settled around 800 like normal. It started like this multiple times before I decided to stop. I had replaced the IAC on Saturday and the pigtail for the CTS on Sunday (with no improvement to the rough idle btw), but I figured it had to be an issue with the former. Fortunately I'm a klepto and held onto the old IAC I had taken off. Popped the old one back in and the truck started up just fine like before.*Phew* I suspect the new IAC valve already broke was not retracting when the engine was turned off. Guess you get what you pay for with a $8 Chinese IAC valve off of ebay It does make me nervous about the MAPS, CTS, and TPS that I bought from the same source...I'm probably just going to adjust the idle screw and be done with this...
    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Have you checked your fuel filter? A semi clogged filter will give you similar results until the system pressurizes. Just a thought.

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    Steve-O (December 26th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    I replaced the fuel filter sometime over the summer. But I smelled fuel after stopping the engine a couple months ago, the fuel line going into the filter had gotten lose. I tightened them all down but should probably check again.
    ___________
    Steven
    1993 Wrangler YJ
    2015 Cherokee KL

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    Default Re: Steven's '93 YJ



    Steven - if you ever need to get to the fuel pump / top of the fuel tank - I heartily recommend a permanent mod of cutting an access panel in the back floor of the jeep. I can show you how I did mine (it's quite nice to be able to access fuel pump & in-tank filter w/o dropping the tank).

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