"Got tested. The jeep passed emissions"
Congrats on the pass!
WHERE DID YOU GET TESTED??? CO DMV states emissions is closed (I need emissions for my car and soon, the jeep).
They reopened a handful of locations. I went to Sheridan.
- County Line
- Denver Southeast
- Ft. Collins
Also... check your county DMV website. It appears to me that the state DMV focuses on licencing, where registrations and titles are more of a county thing. It took me a couple of weeks to realize that. I made an appointment on the Jeffco DMV website.... although most typical transactions can be done online I think.
Jim (May 19th, 2020)
Thanks - I'll check FoCo this week.
I have (2) 2 inch coil spacer they are new never put them on my Jeep. If you want them they are yours
Thanks, Steve. Your spacers should be 0.25 taller than mine. I think I'm going to need a little bit more than that. I found .75in spacers for $15 online. Probably going to pull the trigger on those.
Tore into the rear brakes to replace a broken spring I found when I replaced the trac lock clutches. While I was under ther I realized my driver side UCA flops up and down on the axle side by a quarter inch. I'll probably do all of the control arm bushings in the near future.
It seems like this shouldnt be so difficult, but its unclear to me which control arm bushings are common with which on a TJ.
This is my best guess currently:
Front upper frame and axle are the same PN... but the axle side is pressed into the axle housing. X4
Rear upper frame and axle sides are the same. X4
Front and rear lower axle and frame sides are all the same. X8
What do you folks think? Does this sound right?
I'm not certain, but I have an extra pair of upper control arm bushings for a TJ (new in box) from my replacement job last fall. Wasn't sure my order would arrive in time from quadratec, so bought a set from Amazon too. You can have those if you want them. The upper bushing came already pressed into my new adjustable upper control arm, so I only was concerned with the part number for replacing the axle side. The axle side bushing on the differential was a real pain.
I think I'm going to avoid going down a rabbit hole here and just replace the rear, upper, axle side bushings on both sides. Laying under the jeep with the parking brake on, I can roll the jeep back and forth and the rear axle pinion angle moves quite a bit. It makes me wonder how much its moving under load. All of the motion seems to be in the bushings I plan to replace, but I am fighting the urge to just replace every bushing in the jeep. There's a good chance replacing these would just make one of the others the weak link but getting a full set here in a reasonable amount of time seems difficult, and I want to get this thing out in the dirt instead of it living in a perpetual state of repair in my driveway. I will replace them all eventually, but just not right now.
Over the long weekend I may try and do something about a rear recovery point. There is a trailer hitch installed witch seems plenty stout, but it looks like its going to be a rock magnet. As a quick improvement I am tempted to lop the 2"receiver off of the bottom and attach something I can get a shackle onto. That would get the worst of it out of the way.
Lastly, I did splurge a little on something nice, but I think it was still a decent deal. I picked up a warn XD9000 off of craigslist for $320. It was in pieces when I bought it and was missing the contactor mounting bracket and all of the mounting hardware and nuts for the electrical contacts, but I was able to hotwire the motor with two sets of jumper cables to confirm it was in working order and to test that the contactor at least made a clicking sound. I found the bracket from the M8000 on my old TJ in a box of old hardware and bought the rest of the missing bolts and nuts from the local hardware store. I had a look at the planetary gearing and it looks to be in fine shape. Its all back together now and it seems to be in working order. The steel cable was all birdsnested and is kinked up really bad all over. I am thinking I will find a decent synthetic line for it.
I do already have the badland, but 12K seems like a bit much for a TJ and when I respooled the cable under load I realized that 65 feet is really not that much cable. The XD9000 should take 100 feet of 5/16 line. I know I could get a winch extension for less money, but I feel a little better about a used name-brand winch than a used harbor-freight winch. Plus, this one actually came with a wired remote.
I may sell the badland, but 12k is a decent size for the van though. I am less likely to put the van in a situation to get it really badly stuck. Maybe I will put it on a 2" receiver mount. I did mount 2 inch receivers to the front and rear of the van. My front receiver was intended to be a rear receiver, so its a little more stout than most front receivers. I need to think about loads and capacities and determine if that is a good idea.
The seller threw in a brand new roller fairlead. I went ahead and ordered a hawse. Anyone out there need a roller?
Hello my name is Kurtis I'm redoing my suspension on my TJ just wondering if you were interested in a 3 1/2 inch Rubicon express short arm suspense.
Thanks for the offer. I might be looking to buy someone's used suspension kit in a year or two, but at the moment I'm trying to keep it low enough so I dont have to start messing around with the rear driveshaft, an SYE, and all the other stuff that has to be dealt with at that point.
At the moment the suspension is lifted just under 2 inches, and everything seems to be getting along just fine under there without having to drop my T-case skid. Although, I had a touch of death wobble yesterday, but I pulled out the tape measure and found my toe-in to be about 1/2 inch. I bumped that out to a little under 1/8th so we will see how that works.
Let me know if you were looking for anything I do have a Lotta parts that I'm taking off PS I love the van I have a 1994 E350 that I'm looking at putting four-wheel-drive in so I'm really jealous of yours
Thanks. The van needs some attention. The jeep is getting it all lately.
Replaced those upper control arm bushings in the rear. Maybe this isn't that uncommon, I have never seen it previously: but the rear of both axle side bushings ruptured and its like the rubber was pressed out through the hole.
The other bushings looked fantastic by comparison, but could probably stand to be replaced. It was odd.. if I ordered one pair I could get it in a couple of days, but if I ordered more it was going to be a couple of weeks. Must have only had one set in a local warehouse.
How many of you guys run an oil pan skid. I'm considering it.
I have a Warn one and it's worked well for about 9 years now. https://www.warn.com/oil-pan-skid-pl...wrangler-65020 I've taken it off and undented / repainted it a couple of times.
My oil pan looked just like that before I was able to get some protection. Changed the pan and went with Undercover Fab. Here's what I got:
I guess I'm just lucky. I don't have a skid and I've been wheeling this Jeep for 3 years now. Here's my oil pan:
I don't. I don't think there's much for dents in mine. Could be tire size and me not often visiting difficult trails is my out?
I had one similar to this on my TJ.
The oil pan was damaged by the previous owner. I'm not sure i'll be bouncing it off of rocks, and it is about an inch higher now that I installed that motor mount lift. There is a teraflex skit on craigslist right now for a decent price that I may try and snap up. I'd rather save for gears and bigger tires at this point than to throw $300+ at a skid plate if I can avoid it.
I'm putting in a new driveway in about a month and it would be nice if the jeep would stop leaking oil. From the looks of it I would guess I am leaking from the rear main seal, but there's a chance it could be related to the pan and it would have to come out anyway. I want ahead and ordered the pan, gasket and rear main seal. I figure it's worth a shot.
Does anyone know if there is enough droop in a stock front suspension to get the oil pan out without having to remove the pickup?
I'm going to see if a new rear main seal will cut down on the drip coming out of the back of my engine. I'll also be replacing my damaged oil pan.
Question: It's recommended to add a dab of RTV at the corners of the oil pan gasket by the timing cover and by the rear bearing cap. What's unclear is if this should be added between the gasket and the engine or between the gasket and the pan, or both. I'm inclined to add a little in both locations, but I figure there should be some good advice from the group here. Thanks.