Trevor? previously posted:
"I am assuming more backspacing = the mounting face is closer to the outside of the wheel."
that is correct...double edged issue here. More backspacing keeps the wheel tucked in more, which means the fenderwell clearance can stay smaller....If you kept the same backspacing with a bigger/wider tire, then you could eventually run into rubbing the outer diameter of the tire against the inner fenderwell, and also hitting frame before reaching the limit of turning. Plus, it the tires get really wide, they can start to have clearance issues on the inside of the wheel where steering knuckle/components are brake components might be. Running less backspacing will push the wheels out further allows for clearance on the inside of the wheel/tire and allows for the tires to turn to full lock without hitting the frame/etc., but also makes inner fenderwell rub more likely along the outer diameter of the tire (especially when turning and stuffing). Trimming the fenders/removing the plastic inner fenders and getting the body up higher (lift) helps give the fender room needed both for larger diameter tires, but also for a wider tire track (either through a wider tire or less backspacing on the wheels, or combination of both).
My two cents is that for most moderate lifts (2-3") with an increase in tires size of 2" or so, stock wheels are usually fine - you might get some rub at full turn lock, and/or when the tire stuffs pretty hard...Its hard to do with modern p-metric ratio tires, but I kind of like going taller, but not getting any wider as it provides a bit more clearance (and maybe I just prefer a taller skinnier tire). Besides, is there a decent looking aftermarket wheel these days? - keep the stockers!
Anyone had issues getting 12.50s mounted to stock wheels?
Reply W/Quote
fair enough!
