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Thread: D44 Eaton Locker Install

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Okay - putting stuff back together - not sure you need photos of that....but I did get the wiring roughed in. I mounted the relay and 'suppression diode' up on the inside of the firewall where my 2 fuse blocks are. Since I had fuse blocks (both always hot and keyed 12V) - I simplified the wiring harness a bit using my fuse blocks instead of their inline fuses and breaker. I also decided to use my own rocker switch as it was easy to mount in place of their large rectangular plastic switch. As I didn't want to drill a new hole in the face of the dash, I am mounting the rocker sideways just under the dash (it also has a little red LED) in an existing hole. Its pretty close to the parking brake handle - see how well that works for now.

    Although nothing is clean and tidy with the wiring yet...I just wanted to see if the locker would lock...and it does! As I am working solo...I had to put the tires back on the rear, and with only one side jacked-up, I can spin the tire about a 1/8-1/4 of a turn and the locker clicks in either direction (when the locker is on). When off, the tires spin opposite when both are lifted. Time to finalize all the little stuff.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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  3. #42
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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Looking good James.

    Given that very bad things can happen to the e-locker if switched on at the wrong time, I opted to use 2 switches on mine. the primary switch is mounted where it is easy to use while driving, and a second switch that powers the primary switch is located in a hard to get to location (so it can't accidentally be activated). Can't tell you how many times I've looked over to find that my dog has bumped the primary switch when I wasn't looking... the second switch has saved me some expensive repairs.
    ___________
    ~Not All Who Wander Are Lost~ (at least not all the time)

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    FINOCJ (May 1st, 2019)

  5. #43
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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Interesting idea - I am a bit worried about accidentally bumping the switch which is a downside of the electric locker I guess. But it is so easy to engage with a flip of a switch. No air compressors or hoses needed (ARB), no mechanical cables binding (Ox) - although I generally like mechanical connections. This is one reason I set up the rocker switch sideways so that'on' or engaged is towards the driver. I am more likely to bump it or knee it from the right (its to the left of the driver) - thus pushing the switch to the left - and that would turn it off. Don't want to accidentally turn it on at a bad time. I may eventually find a better location - this dash hole was already there and I didn't want to drill a hole in the dash just yet as I am just testing for functionality. I'd like to find a good safe spot for it. Or maybe I could use one of those rocker switches with the cover:
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  6. #44
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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    I'd for sure go with a covered toggle switch. They are more secure and you can pretend you are arming a missile when flipping the cover open.

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Spieg previously posted:
    "I opted to use 2 switches on mine."

    I went that route with my in-cab winch switch. My dash switches aren't likely to get bumped but I added an "Winch Enable" switch in the row apart from the In/Off/Out switch.

    And then there's this (that you could probably make out of material in the garage):
    https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YS8AA...Fl/s-l1600.jpg

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Well...jeep went on a liquor run...so far so good. Cruised around the block and did some brake self adjusting stops. Then decided it was time for some beer! First time in 2 months the jeep has been out of the garage.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Awesome dude!

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Couldn't find a reason to switch on the locker at any point on the short jaunt to the store....looking forward to getting it out where I can test it a bit. I want to let the R&P get re-aqainted again before putting too much stress on stuff. Also, going to pull the axle shafts back out at some point and get new axle bearings/races and seals. Going to let NAPA do the press work on those.
    ___________
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    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Nice! Glad you got it rolling again.
    Clearly you must be shopping at the wrong liquor store... there's a nice one in Rollinsville.

    I'd probably not use the locker much at first. Maybe wait until after the first oil change/gear inspection (500 miles?).
    ___________
    ~Not All Who Wander Are Lost~ (at least not all the time)

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Spieg previously posted:
    "Maybe wait until after the first oil change/gear inspection (500 miles?)."

    I like that thinking.

    Does the locker manufacturer list any recommended steps with a new install?






    edit1.2: You could sit back with that cold one...

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Must feel great to have it working again! You did nice work, great attention to detail.

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Jim previously posted:
    "I like that thinking.

    Does the locker manufacturer list any recommended steps with a new install?

    ."

    Nope...for their detroit auto locker, the manual says they need no break in usage or time. Of course, I think with those units, the side gears and case/carrier all remain the same, and everything should go back together with the exact same fit and same clearances. With the e-locker, the side gears are all new, and although the R&P are the same, they have slightly different mating fit and clearance than before (although I tried to match the previous set-up as much as possible). So, I think the mating wear surfaces are going to need to some time together before stressing too much. As Brian mentioned, SOP for new R&P is 500 miles of low stress use (mostly you need to keep the gear oil temp low while surfaces work harden) and then change the gear oil. So, good excuse to drive to work today and over the next few weeks - 40 mile roundtrip. As the skiing is so good, I don't see getting out on any jeep trails over the next few weeks anyway. Maybe i can do the axle bearings when i do the gear oil change in 500 miles.
    ___________
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    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Glad to see out and about.

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Sweet man! Now go use it!
    My buddy with the super 44 swap loves his Elockers!
    And I must say I love mine!
    ___________
    Crazy- You call me crazy, but you wouldn't know crazy if Charles Manson was eating Fruit Loops on your front porch. Suiciadl tendancies- intatutionalized

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Been driving my jeep around town quite a bit...all seems to be working well so far. Decided it was time to work on replacing the axle shaft unit bearings and seals.
    Used a slide hammer with little attachment on the end that would go through the center hole of the race and inner seal, then open it up behind them and pull them out with the hammer mechanism. Worked perfect...



    Here is a pic of the races...The one on the right shows what I think is some unusual wear. You can kind of see how dull and slightly grainy the surface appears as compared to the shiny smooth one on the left. You can't feel any difference, but you can certainly see it. It only goes about 2/3 the way around the race....not sure how much of an issue that would become, but happy to replace them.


    This is one of the reasons to change them out. Plus the leaky seals... and then just good peace of mind knowing that this should take care of the rear axle for a long time. I would guess that with no full float set-up on my flanged axle, it is kind of the most critically important piece of the jeep in terms of keeping the jeep rolling (even when being towed out of a bad spot)...basically, you can't even tow the stupid thing if something in the rear axle disintegrates and blows up - it would be more like dragging a really heavy and non-functional sled.



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    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    oof - good to have that right race out of there.

    Nice to have the job done!



    I'll be yanking the bearing and spacer/retainer in the morning to take the axle to Napa for a sleeve. Tomorrow eve will likely be inner race removal to wrap-up the job.

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    I went with new retaining plates and got the local NAPA machine shop to remove the old bearing and press on the new ones - haven't really had much chance to see if it is all good, but the old timer at the machine shop immediately asked if they were jeep axle shafts...gave me some confidence they knew what they were doing.
    ___________
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    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    If you want to do it yourself with common tools...

    I used to use a bench grinder to grind through the retaining collar and roller retainer then inner race. The kick when using a grinder is that you will not grind into the axle itself (though care is needed) as the collar / race will "pop" open when you get close to the end. An angle grinder cut-off disk is an option - though more care is needed as it cuts faster than the grinding wheel route.

    To install, if you don't have a press, hammer and punch is what I've used.


    Cut off disk removal route:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ia-uNxQvjL0

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLRZeCWut4M

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Jim previously posted:
    "If you want to do it yourself with common tools...

    I used to use a bench grinder to grind through the retaining collar and roller retainer then inner race. The kick when using a grinder is that you will not grind into the axle itself (though care is needed) as the collar / race will "pop" open when you get close to the end. An angle grinder cut-off disk is an option - though more care is needed as it cuts faster than the grinding wheel route.

    To install, if you don't have a press, hammer and punch is what I've used.


    Cut off disk removal route:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ia-uNxQvjL0

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLRZeCWut4M"

    It wasn't so much the cutting them off that was worrying me...although cutting the lock ring off was said to be the hard part... Pressing the new ones on was the part that was supposedly difficult: I have driven a lot bearings on shafts etc using hammer and brass drift or old bearing races and various improvised tools, but those that are very familiar with this specific d44 ecj5 axles suggested it was essentially impossible to drive the unit bearing and/or lock ring on - a press was needed. I decided not to find out the hard way and just paid...
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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