YJ front hub options

[Jim]

Heading up the typically most difficult obstacle on Johnny Park I decided to take a harder line. Two tires (opposite corners) spinning, I locked both diff's. Backup and try again - PINK from the left front wheel. There goes a locking hub. It doesn't take much to toast one of these hubs.

Rugged Ridge = Fusible Link

The jeep came with Warn hubs but one became damaged internally and I put it on the shelf (unlikely it'll be repaired). I purchased a set of two RR hubs and I've busted both.

I'm a bit undecided on them. Should I spend a bit more to have the Warn hub (where I had not broken one) or should I keep the RR hubs and use them as an easily replaceable fusible link?

For now, I have a set of two RR's on the way so the decision to go Warn is perhaps a year or few down the road...

Process to replace the hub is like changing a tire - remove wheel, slide hub off, slide new hub on, install wheel - much easier / quicker than replacing a U-joint... With the ?20? year old Warn hub on the passenger side and RR on the driver side - It's been predictable which will fail first.

[FINOCJ]

I appreciate the idea of having a simple weak spot like the locking hub as compared to something internal in the axle...but what's the use of a front locker if those RR hubs break every time you really need one wheel to pull hard. I say go warn...what's the yj front axle?

[Jim]

HP D30
Unknown axle shafts - but they are not stock.

[Spieg]

FWIW - My D30 hub design is quite a bit different than yours Jim, but I've had really good luck with MileMarker lockouts (better than Warn for less $$ for my setup).

[FINOCJ]

Superwinch also makes hubs that are probably better quality than RR and cheaper than Warn....not sure what applications they have...your hp d30 with locking hubs is a bit unique? Maybe more of an xj mod...see what those guys are running.

[newracer]

Jim previously posted:

[Jim]

Torque.

As I recall: Stopped. Front left tire against a step. Letting clutch out slowly. 1st gear. On the gas enough to not stall. <snap>

I _knew_ I was loading the drivetrain more than typical but I was still within my envelope of "the drivetrain should handle what I'm giving it". Perhaps I need to adjust my envelope...

With a Warn hub, perhaps all would have been good (walk up the step) or perhaps I would have snapped something else.

If nothing else - I need to remember that level of drivetrain loading.

[newracer]

In that case I would get different hubs.

[FINOCJ]

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/...712157853.html
Would these work for you Jim?

[Jim]

These are 27 spline and I'm looking for 27 spline but I don't think so. I don't see my wheel slipping over the hub and then installing lug nuts. I see this design as going on after the wheel is put on.

https://www.warn.com/standard-locking-hub-28751

This is my style:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/iEkAA...5u/s-l1600.jpg

The four wheel shop where I had ARB work done tried to talk me into getting away from the hubs I have - but doing so would involve changing wheels and axles . I'm just not seeing the need for it as yet.

These are a couple options:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Warn-38370-...J/362443595404
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Warn-Manual...e/232958671697

[FINOCJ]

Not that familiar with the wheel flange mounted locking hub. Guessing that is because it did not originally come with locking hub and this is a retrofit? Additionally, I would guess you have 5x4.5 bolt pattern - which may be getting too small to fit a traditional locking hub that mounts directly to the wheel hub. Many of the old 4x4s where 5x5.5 pattern. Just a thought....what about drive flanges? These are probably the strongest set-up you can install - it basically acts like a permanently locked front hub. Most old cjs came with drive flanges and it was an aftermarket upgrade to have the locking hub. The advantage of a locking hub was to be able to unlock it for hard pavement 2wd driving as opposed to our thought today to go 'lock-in'. If you don't DD your rig too much, then maybe the drive flanges are a good way to go as they are strong (but could risk breaking something internal) and generally cheaper as they don't have any moving parts. Of course, they will cause hard pavement driving to feel a bit different - would be just the same as driving your current set-up with the hubs always locked. Might be a good spare part for trail breakage....although it sounds like you will have 3 functional hubs now so one is a spare.

[Jim]

FINOCJ previously posted:

[FINOCJ]

Sorry to ask so many questions - but I am kind of interested in how your locking hubs work. For some reason I remember my 84cj7 having the more traditional non-flanged locking hubs. Does the mounting flange on the locking hub bolt into the face of the wheel hub or does it slide over the wheel/lug bolts and is held in place when the wheel is tightened on using the lug nuts. Obviously the inner portion of the locking hub has to slide over the spindle splines.

[Java]

I had the same D30 in my YJ and the popular upgrade was to run TJ shafts in if for the 1 piece shafts and bigger U-joints. Since you're 27 spline is it possible that's what your shafts are? If so have you considered just running unit bearings? They're really strong, cheap and easy to swap and most people never have any problems with them. they might just bolt in if your axle isn't too modified. Timken makes a good one, I carry a MOOG as a spare but have never needed it. Just a thought...

[FINOCJ]

Paul previously posted:

[FINOCJ]

Not that any of this is critically important for you, Jim - its as much for my interest and might provide some other insight. A vote here for the unit bearing set-up - this is from a knowledgeable ecj5 forum member who also has a YJ (for as much as they are ***** about the square headlights - a lot them DD a YJ for some reason).

The YJ did not have auto locking hubs originall (edit - he is referring to an external auto locking hub that is sometime found on old cjs - my use of auto locking hubs was not technically correct) . They were just a splined unitized wheelbearing that the axle shaft was held into by a big nut and washer. It did have a central axle disconnect but the hubs themselves never unlocked.

HOWEVER!!!! The locking hubs that came with the YJ conversion share a design and probably a part number with Bronco II and Ranger hubs, so you may need to look into what those guys are running. At the very least, you might be able to find a Warn equivalent part that might last longer.

IMHO, I'd ditch the custom hub conversion and its buffet of random parts. Then sell it off, and go back to the original unitized design with a good pair of axle shafts, with spares available at every parts store in the country.

So my question to him - and that which might refer to what Paul is suggesting - would going to a unit bearing hub (sort of a permanent drive flange basically?) with what is already a swapped in solid axle shaft (no disconnect at the central axle) be a huge detriment to DDing? Basically it would become one piece axle with the hubs always 'locked-in' - and not sure how feasible that is. Obviously a lot of old cjs came with drive flanges - but highway cruising and paved roads everywhere where less of a concern for what was a work utility vehicle. See what he says...

[FINOCJ]

His response about DDing a splined unit bearing front hub - and I don't think you actually DD the YJ, but just to give a point of reference:

Later TJ's, ZJ's, XJ's, and WJ's omitted the front axle disconnect and were locked in 100% without problems. If its an ARB it shouldn't matter since it is an open diff when disengaged. He'd probably be fine as long as he doesn't lock it on the street. Plenty of those other jeeps I mentioned are running around with ARB's in the front.

[Java]

The Dana 30 and Dana 44 has unit bearings from the factory in every jeep XJ, YJ, TJ, JK, etc... and is what everyone daily drives on. It's the OEM setup, and every TJ Rubicon on 35s does just fine with them so I think they would work for you. The unit bearing on TJ Dana 30s and TJRubicon Dana 44s are the same, no issue with lockers. The disconnect was a bad attempt at fuel economy, GM had them too. Jeep hasn't used them since 1995, and they have no unusual effect on anything until they fail.

This is one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...iABEgJfzvD_BwE

[Jim]

FINOCJ previously posted:

[FINOCJ]

Jim previously posted: