Engine Diagnosis

[FINOCJ]

Hypoid previously posted:

[dieseldoc]

a quadrajet carb if tuned right will run very well, tell you change elevation by 2000+ feet.
the electronic controled crabs are problumatic at best.
the HEI distributers are a nice up grade yet I still lean to a mallory with a 6AL control box, mind you these are outdated now as well as the HEI stuff but the higer voltage they run to the plugs them self is a huge jump..


sounds like you are searching again. check with Republic park jeep he may have something. I know he is pricey but the guy knows his jeep stuff and has the hard to find stuff.
when I saw him last (2 months or so) he had 4 of the 230 inlie 6 engines from Kisser.

[FINOCJ]

dieseldoc previously posted:

[Jim]

Crank sensor was an add on to my jeep in its FI conversion...

[dieseldoc]

I bet you you could make it an odd fire the lid with little issues.
A ton of time yes but these days the Fuelie kits are so much easier than the old stuff.
The computers in the new kits have base tunes now, unlike the older stuff that had to go to a runner just to get the engine to start.

James I live close to Repuplic park would you like me to stop by there and see what he has built and ready?
I know he has a good selection of engines ready to go.

[FINOCJ]

I try so hard to stay out of these debates....I guess I haven't had the worst possible experiences with Mike at Republic - but not sure I am going to give him much money unless he is the only option. FWIW - what little info I have on my engine from the PO, he rebuilt it the last time although not sure what what was requested by the owner but feel like some corners were cut in the rebuild from what I am finding out on this tear down. At the same time, that was 15-20 years ago, so its not like the engine rebuild didn't last very long although it was in storage for quite a lot of those years. I guess I would have expected hardened valve seats even then, and not the bronze valve stem liners, and much more moderate amounts of RTV for all of the heads and intake gaskets that then plugged some of the oil passages (and my mechanical guage pick-up a couple years ago), as well as painting the front of the block inside the front cover where the paint is peeling off. In short, not just from this experience, I don't have much to say about Republic...He has had a couple of items that are really hard to find and the price reflects that. But of he's the only one who has it, then I want to be able to do business with him. If someone else has the part...I go there even if its Ft Collins or the Springs or St Louis. As of yet - I have not been chased out of his shop or told not to come back, so I am happy to keep it that way. I have been sworn at and called stupid - and while true probably not the best customer service model. The times I've been in the back of his shop, I wouldn't want any sensitive work done - its a complete dirty, disorganized mess IMO. I have not been there (shop on federal) in a couple years - the last few time part searching i've given him a call. He always says he'll take a look and call back. Never calls back so I call back in a few days - says when he gets time he'll call - might have to check out in the big yard out east - then never calls back. I call him a 3rd time and he just say no. If he has a part I need at a price I am willing to pay, I will buy it, but anything that is 'worked on' I am not touching.

[FINOCJ]

Jim previously posted:

[dieseldoc]

he his,federal location is a disaster area.
The build shop is clean( different location)
He is a total P.I.T.A for sure.

[Spieg]

Wasn't going to say anything but since the subject is being discussed...
I'll say that I won't do business with Republic .(emphatic period)

[Hypoid]

Just out of curiosity, have you found and EFI system that does not try to control the spark advance?

[Jim]

FINOCJ previously posted:

[FINOCJ]

Hypoid previously posted:

[Jim]

Some of what you wrote kicked some dust in my mind: Dad installed aftermarket cruise controls on several cars "way back". The cruise unit needed speed sensors. The kits came with a 1/8"x1/8"x1" magnet. The magnet would get glued onto one axle (vehicle speed). A sensor would then be placed to sense the magnet passing near it. Perhaps you could affix a magnet / sensor to your crank - onto the front dampener - if a dampener kit isn't available for your motor.

As for high pressure fuel... somewhat the same issue with mine. My sender assy is hacked up / not stock. High pressure (FI rated) fuel line onto a high pressure pump that sits with its intake 1/8" from the bottom of the flat tank.

As for your dual tank setup - if needed use a low pressure, electric "lift pump" to move fuel from the lower tank to the upper tank that has the high pressure fuel delivery pump (or have the high tank gravity feed to the lower tank and have the lower tank have the high pressure pump).

Those sensor / pump issues don't seem too crazy to ditch FI thoughts (though I don't know your pump mounting layout).

Some FI pump assy pix. The assembly was designed for mechanical / engine block suction pump. The assembly intake was hacked sawed off, rubber fuel line and pump connected. I needed to connect power to the pump through the top of the assembly. I "made" the insulator for positive power via white plastic washers and plastic tube. Between the two white washers, where the metal bolt (positive power) passes through the plate (ground), I believe I placed a nicely sized O-ring. Should the nylock nuts loosen to allow the bolt to move, the O-ring would keep it from sliding sideways to the ground plane (unless the two nylock locking nuts became quite loose, at which a spark would give a nice toasted jeep). I keep a bag of marshmallows with me at all times.

[FINOCJ]

thank Jim. I do think the fuel delivery is the bigger issue in some ways. Crank sensor will definitely work, although I haven't look into them directly - it may be more expensive and require more parts than I think in terms of maybe a new harmonic balancer or something. When I installed the rear tank I put hard lines to the engine compartment with NPT fittings (kind of with this in mind), but have short low pressure rubber hose connectors at both the fuel pick-up and and fuel line switch in the engine compartment. I think I can get the fuel figured out either with the Fi-Tech governor pump or through running everything from the rear tank and then pumping reserve fuel from the underseat tank into the rear tank when needed. One issue with this will be fitting the high pressure line to the pick-up as well as how to connect the hose from the spare tank to the main tank. I was originally thinking I could use the return fuel inlet, but that will have to be high pressure connection for the FI return. I would need to mod the pick-up to have a 3rd inlet - but it could be low pressure. I could almost gravity feed fuel from the upper underseat tank to the lower rear tank and just have a on/off vavle to keep from overflowing the rear tank.

Lots to think about- all of it comes after getting the current engine back from the machine shop. Should know tomorrow whether the block has any cracks (magnaflux testing now) and then can begin machining work. Getting ready to hand over a chuck of cash so FI seems a bit off in the future until the funds replenish.

[Hypoid]

FINOCJ previously posted:

[FINOCJ]

Hypoid previously posted:

[Jim]

While St. Louis is not high on your list (and I agree - the unknown condition of it)... I'll toss this out as a long term, low burn, back of your mind option: I will be driving CO to IL and back this Christmas. While I typically go I-80 through NE and IA, I have been known to do the "70 drive" as there is good BBQ in Kansas. _IF_ you wished a motor to be hauled west, I could stick it on my small trailer on the return trip...

[Patrolman]

FINOCJ previously posted:

[FINOCJ]

Absolutely true. But just the cost of the parts is pricey, and then add the machine work including valve seats and guides and its a lot of money. The machine work is being done by Spitfire. I am concerned that I will screw up the rebuild. I survived my TC and Transmission rebuilds, but I also screwed up a couple things. I am pretty sure I slightly damaged the 1-R syncronizer when trying to set the rear bearing and endplay so it doesn't shift into 1st as freely as I would like (but might loosen up with time). I also didn't replace the shift fork which has wear as well. And while the D18 TC is known for leaking, I hoped I could get it to seal up better. Probably should have replaced the yokes that wear a groove against the seal, and probably should have tried harder to get the pan/cover surface more flat. Looked like someone at some point over tightened the pan bolts (probably trying to stop the leaking) and warped both the pan cover and case surface so its hard to seal properly. Lots of little things that you don't expect and learn by doing.

This jeep was/is cheap - it's a learning project I guess, and since it doesn't really have any 'value' to begin with, if I screw it up its not a huge loss. But the engine is definitely an order of magnitude larger in cost than most projects. Yea - I don't want to waste money on a screwed up rebuild, but I also don't want to do nothing paralyzed by concern over screwing it up. Some people have the expertise for this project - I don't so I spend a lot of time trying to figure out what is an acceptable or reasonable path forward considering the monetary risk. Plus, for me, while I enjoy learning and developing skills to keep an old jeep running...its done with the intent to drive it. I am not in to just working on a long term project rebuild/restoration. Or maybe if that was the route, then I would need something else to wheel. So its always a balance of working on it and driving it. As said before, the worst that can happen is I blow it up...and its not worth that much to begin with or have that much invested monetarily before this engine project.

[Patrolman]

Here is a used 225 engine for $75 - in Montana though. I may have a friend who lives there and comes this direction from time to time.

https://helena.craigslist.org/pts/5792048673.html

One in NY for $100

http://ithaca.craigslist.org/pts/5749883856.html

I just searched AdHuntr really quick by date to see what was out there. It searches all of Craiglist ads.

http://www.adhuntr.com/