Great find Jeff, it would be a great spare for sure
Great find Jeff, it would be a great spare for sure
Without the title maybe there is some room for a price negotiation , If the rims are the right size 15" 5x5.5 I might be interested in purchasing the rims.
Thanks - I've been interested in that one as much for the T18 4spd and whatever adapters it might be using to the bellhousing and transfercase. If the T18 is the 6:1 1st and fully functional with both the adapters - that alone is worth $500-$800. There could definitely be some other useful parts there as well possibly including some sought after power steering - can't tell from the pics. Even little things could be useful or parted like lock-out hubs etc. If I had a trailer to bring it home and a big enough place to keep it 'out back' then its definitely worth a look.
FWIW - the engine is ready to re-install. Been too busy with holiday travel, work and so forth to either get much work done on the jeep or post updates...but I think I finished the 11inch brake upgrade last night (still have to check some brake line connections that might be leaking and re-bleed). But the engine is rebuilt and ready to put back in...probably won't get to it till after the holidays as I want to address a couple transmission leaks/gaskets/seals first. Then it goes back in.
Thinking of getting the flywheel refinished - anyone got suggestions for a good shop?
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Dam the holly projection alone is worth twice that....
Yeah, that looked like a good parts truck. Even after stripped out, someone may still buy the carcass. Since it has been posted for 20 days, there is likely room to negotiate. Also this is my favorite time of the year to buy on CL. People are usually more willing to negotiate as they need holiday cash. Only a couple more days before that window closes.
For getting the flywheel turned, will your machine shop do that? Also the price of a new flywheel isn't a lot. It might be the cost of having it turned, or maybe even cheaper. Worth taking a look.
For the flywheel, a new one may not be a bad idea.
The new steels are very hard and generally won't need turned.
Next if you need a trailer to pull this thing home let me know. We have 2 low deck trailers I could grab and get ya done.
If it's just space after that we could bring it to my shop and strip it down.
We have over head cranes 175psi air for tools heat (bonus) and the hot wrench if needed.
You are awesome Brandon for offering up the help!
Thanks for helpful offers guys. I am out of town for the holiday already...but if its still around in early jan it would be worth a look. I was looking for a jeepster c101 a few years ago and ended up with my cj5 instead. If I were trying to build a more hardcore rig I think that jeeoster couls be a good start. Frame inspection needed and i would chose the go back to a spring under and redo the cage. If its truly in good running shape it would be hard to part out.
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Personally I wouldn't have any problem yanking the engine/trans/t-case from the Jeepster. It is so modified, that it would only make sense to put something else in it anyways. I am sure that someone else would pay $500 or so for the body/frame/axles.
Well - since this thread is still sitting here, new question:
making some progress towards getting the engine back in the jeep. The manifold is bolted on to the top of the block and its time to start putting on some of the little things. Wondering how to best put my vacuum port (for heater control hose) as well as an adjacent plug back in. Do I want to use any special kind of thread sealer on these to prevent any vacuum leaks? Or do they just get screwed in until tight?
Pic of the two on the rear of the manifold from before I tore it all apart.
It also looks like I should replace my coolant outlet nipple that goes to the heater (full of coolant precipitate). Its port is on the driver side rear of the manifold. Again, what the best way to manage any leak concerns when I thread in the new pipe (any thread sealant needed). Same question for where my temp gauge sending unit goes (this is an aftermarket temp gauge that uses the same port the OEM 'idiot' light. Here is pic of the temp sender location to right of carb and just behind the thermostat. Finally, in this pic, you will also see to the left (driver side rear of the manifold) a manifold bolt with 2 spacers underneath it and a strip of metal on top of the spacers. Does this strip or spacers have any purpose?
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
You get to learn all about compression fittings, and NPT fittings. In any case, Teflon paste (or tape) on the threads will reduce the friction involved in screwing things together, and taking them apart. To wit: The thread coating does not make the seal, mashing the components together does.
If you don't plan to reuse the aftermarket bracket, compare the hole depth to the bolt length, adjust as needed.
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The Lost Boys motto: We don't know where we're going, but we'll be there for awhile. :)
Figured I'd post this here as hopefully the beginning of the conclusion to to this journey:
I finally got it running! For the last few weeks the distributor has been causing me problems - first I couldn't get it to install properly, and I think I unknowingly did the damage while trying to 'force' it more than I should have. But finally figured out what was wrong with my old distributor - the inner housing neck that the breaker plate fits on with a snap ring won't stay inside the distributor housing. When the distributor spins, it kept riding up pushing the breaker plate up towards the rotor (or in my case pushing the pertronix pick-up into the rotor ring) and missing spark. The tubular neck sticking off the breaker plate should be solidly inside of the housing behind it and not come out.
Should look like this one:
I tried fixing it over the weekend, cannibalizing a salvaged distributor that I have for emergency back-up - and I think I can make something that functions fine from those two. But in the process I also found the pertronix ring rubbed against the magnetic pick-up and caused some damage. Some of the magnets seemed to be loose, and one fell out pretty easily - two more were loose so I just popped them out and will have to figure a way to adhere them back into the ring (superglue, epoxy or something)
So...I was able to buy a cardone rebuilt delco distributor with points from my FLAPS and walk out the store with it (and it was cheaper than online sources like Rock Auto). Dropped it in, checked some play clearance etc, and things started right up. I can take my time now to fix up the pertronix ring, and then I will swap that into the new distributor, and combine the old two distributors into one good back-up distributor with points.
After getting the engine started, I took it up to 2000rpm for 20 min per cam manufacturer and old jeep rebuilders guides. After a few minutes the engine temp started getting too hot and running rough. Even though I know its not recommended, I had to let it idle for a minute to check timing - I forgot to tighten down the dist hold down clamp, and it pushed the timing way off. From that point on, it ran nicely - held exactly 180 on my new temp gauge and oil pressure was 50 or so. Will still have to go through some carb tuning etc as well as check on the whether my clutch and transmission will function after the re-install. Probably going to need to adjust the clutch linkage a bit. So far, my reseal of the D18 seems to be much better - but might already have a rear main seal leak on the engine!
Its the first good news I've had in a few weeks with it - I am sure something else will come up before all is said and done, but I guess it progress.
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
That is great news, hopefully you can secure the magnetic pickup magets with some epoxy. I imagine that the seal is easily replaceable and all go well.
FINOCJ (March 14th, 2017)
Check the oil today - nothing obviously bad. Wrapped up some basics like finalized the clutch adjustment and got the floor pans in. Also got it tuned roughly with dwell at 30, and carb idle adjustments dialed in a bit (probably going to need continue to tweak that as it settles in). Took it for a spin around the neighborhood block today - no problems or funny noises and it felt peppy. Did a couple 2nd gear 10-30mph runs to disturb the neighbors a bit. Put the new 11inch front drums to work as well - really liked how it stopped. Absolutely noticeable improvement over the OEM 10"- I almost felt like I could probably lock up the fronts with 33s if I pushed hard enough.
Despite that it will continue to mark its territory - seems hopeful that I will have functional jeep soon. Gonna get it out to an open section of road and do a few different 3rd gear 30-60mph runs and put a few trips around town on it, then change the oil and filter. Then I will try get some more miles on it commuting to work a bit.
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon