LOCKERS LOCKERS AND MORE LOCKERS

[MultiScuf]

ALright guyz I prepping for my next build this week.

What are the best lockers out there. ARB or OX or E-Lockers.

Price isn't really the issue I just want the least amount of issues.

[78bj40]

If price is not an issue ARB all the way!

[MultiScuf]

I just don't want thing failing like lines getting cut or not enough air going through the system too lock the locker.

[Brian]

Unless this is a daily driver I would recommend having a non-selectable locker in the rear. ARB’s are great and I have one in my front D44 and wouldn’t trade it for anything. That being said, I prefer the no hassle simple locker in the rear so if my air compressor goes out or I melt, mash, kink or cut the air line, I still have a locker in the rear. Selectable lockers in the front are always a great option in my opinion, I just prefer to keep things as simple and uncomplicated for the “what if” situations that arise.

[MultiScuf]

So its not really going to be a DD but I will be going all over the place with it when I do drive it will be 200+ miles
I also go to alot shows so I rather not be chripping around the show room floors

[Jim]

MultiScuf previously posted:

[dieseldoc]

Ok Brandon you leave out some important info here.....
What axle is it going into.
What tires you want to run.
Transmission...
And what kind of power is this to take.

Theses factors do need to be takin into the dessison.

So mall axles like the c-clip using d35 and ford 8.8 need other work to get lockers in them.
D44 and up have case braks to figue into the mix.
The bigger axles like the AAM 10.5-the massive 11.75 I think I saw there bumping to a 12" now...
Have little aftermarket selection for lockers.

So you want symlpe reliable a detriot is the way to go.
But they need fluid changes on the regular and have additives they need to keep things opperating well.

Oh now you Add the no chripping tires....selectiable is your only options.
The ARB is the standard but that is air power so you have electical to keep up on and air lines to keep ip on as well.
The OX lockers a strong for sure have a good warranty on them, but the maintace is key so thats out for you.
And the E lockers. Eatton makes are good. Its the lock dodge uses in the AAM axles.
They are a bit picky as to engaging and disengaging as you know with your rubi lockers.

So realy you dont want any of them.
They all have there limits and issues with maintance. Or they will be full time and chirp in town.

So no locker for you as your stipulations rule put the options.

[Serious Offroad]

I ran an Ox for 1 season....biggest mistake ever. The cable required constant adjustment.
I was always "That Guy" on the trail....

I ran E-Lockers front and rear on my last rig (D44's and a 5.3L V8). My new rig will have one up front as well (HP D60) and the rear will get a Detroit (14 bolt) since there isn't one for that application.

So E-Locker FTW!

[MultiScuf]

So its a 3.6 Sportmatic Axles at this point are 44s I could change them up I running 38s If I can swap axles I wanna run a 5.0 Coyote(Wouldn't buy a 12 or newer)

[Hypoid]

dieseldoc previously posted:

[dieseldoc]

38's better get some 60's a detroit out back and the e locker for the front and some hydro assest.
You getti g a little out your skill level at that point as well so get stock in a axle shaft company.

[Robert B]

im not sure about the new "soft lock" detroit but if you go for a true No Spin like i have then it just takes regular dinosaur gear oil... but for selectable lockers if price is no issue it really goes to availability and then what you want to install and learn how to fix. they all have pluses and minuses and their own little quirks to learn

[MultiScuf]

dieseldoc previously posted:

[Spieg]

IIRC a Coyote motor makes about 600 horses. Better have a foot made of feathers regardless of the axles/tires/gears you choose...

[dieseldoc]

So have you truely look at what the RCV axle require for maintance.
Ya thay are strong. But you have to grease thses axles every 1k miles.
So once a month you need to get under you rig to and do maintance.
Your maintace track recourd shows you wont do this.
Just like the maintace for an OX locker. Or an air system....they need drained on regularly.
Just like the limited slips and easy lockers with the fluid changes at 30-50k miles with there additives and such.
The detroit is the easiest and best unit maintance wise.

A cyotte engine is a bad Idea for you....600hp supercharged= parts parts and more parts.
Let alown the cost of the engine the cost of the install and now you got some wild engine that dont mate to the factory stuff so you need a transmission as well. So you are taking a jeep and turning into a ford!
Thus start with a ford an SAS.
If you doing a jeep and want the v8 go with the 5.7 or 6.2l
The 6.4l hemi is to much for the jeep frame as is the cyotte engine.
These frames are strong but go toss 600hp on there and see how it flexes....not the sus]ention but the frame twist.....
Now you got to change the axles.....
Just like you say I am not on 40's.....have you seen the work that needs be done to make the d44 live w/a tire bigger than 35".
Come on man do more research before you commit to buying something.
You are sitting around web wheeling.
You need to read up on limits and failure points.
Get on pirate4x4 and lurk around read and see what others are running.
Read there build threads. These guys will flame the hell out of you with your questions so dont ask....
Read the stickies about all the tjings you are asking.....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/?noca.../578353?page=2

They have a JK section as well non hardcore.
You will learn so much more than coming here and asking us.

The things you are over looking are huge....
A v8ed JK on 38's with all the gear tool (you need tools) toss in camping gear for 3 day.....
Holly crap you tip the scales near 6500lbs and up....
Peewee the editor for petersons 4wheel an offroad has his JK built well on 38's his junk hit the scales at 7981# for a 3 day wheeling camping trip....thus why he had a danatrak prorock 80 built...
Yes a dana80! So you realy need to figure out your ultimate goal so you spend as little as you can and dont have to rebuild you rig every year.

Nuff said...

[MultiScuf]

Spieg previously posted:

[Fordguy77]

DieselDoc seems to have some form of hostility towards you, not sure why. However a lot of what he said is true, as well as a lot of what he said is opinion. Just to clear some things up.

"So have you truely look at what the RCV axle require for maintance.
Ya thay are strong. But you have to grease thses axles every 1k miles."

The latest generation or RCV's are lower maintenance, than the previous ones. That now include provisions for easy greasing/servicing. A lot of which really depends on what you use the vehicle for, and how much abuse it actually sees. Its more of a every 6 months of average use type thing, than every 1k.

"So once a month you need to get under you rig to and do maintance."

True. This is something you need to do with any purpose built rig, or even your daily if it sees a lot of abuse.

"Just like the limited slips and easy lockers with the fluid changes at 30-50k miles with there additives and such. The detroit is the easiest and best unit maintance wise."

Again, frequency of the maintenance required depends on use. Most heavy wheelers do a once a year box change. People who mall crawl might never actually need to do it.

"A cyotte engine is a bad Idea for you....600hp supercharged= parts parts and more parts. So you are taking a jeep and turning into a ford! Thus start with a ford an SAS. If you doing a jeep and want the v8 go with the 5.7 or 6.2l The 6.4l hemi is to much for the jeep frame as is the cyotte engine. These frames are strong but go toss 600hp on there and see how it flexes....not the sus]ention but the frame twist.....Have you seen the work that needs be done to make the d44 live w/a tire bigger than 35".

This is a fairly accurate statement to a point. Yet there are still 600hp heaps running around. Simple modifications like boxing the frame can easily help coop with the extra power. As well as running engine dampeners.

Sadly the amount of work/fabrication required to put a modern coyote into an old ford is actually about the same amount of work as putting it into any other vehicle that did not originally come equipped with it. The only exception might be some of the early 4.6 and 5.8 f150 seeing as they are from the same engine family.

You would have to upgrade the axles in both the Ford or the Jeep to support that kind of power especially with that tire size. So your really better off building whatever it is you want to build with the "ideas" you have.

"Come on man do more research before you commit to buying something.
You are sitting around web wheeling. You need to read up on limits and failure points."

The best way to learn, research and find out how to build your dream build is through the use of web wheeling. Research as much as you can before you ever pull the trigger on an idea.


"A v8ed JK on 38's with all the gear tool (you need tools) toss in camping gear for 3 day.....
Holly crap you tip the scales near 6500lbs and up....
Peewee the editor for petersons 4wheel an offroad has his JK built well on 38's his junk hit the scales at 7981# for a 3 day wheeling camping trip....thus why he had a danatrak prorock 80 built..."

This is kind of a load of crap. He did not NEED to go to a "danatrak prorock 80". He works for a magazine company, who gets promotional deals and money for advertisement. What better way than to up grade your jeep than by piggybacking on your magazine?
8K is a drop in the bucket for most expedition rigs, especially the diesels. Most of which are running a 60/sterling or 60/70 set up for axles.


"So you realy need to figure out your ultimate goal so you spend as little as you can and dont have to rebuild you rig every year."
Set a goal. Make a plan. Save the money. Then Build! Not much else to it. Oh and dont forget to have fun.

"Nuff said..."
Please be a little more careful with your spelling and grammar next time. That last reply was pretty bad. I had a hard time reading it, let alone quoting it.

[MultiScuf]

dieseldoc previously posted:

[Robert B]

I second the spelling and grammar part was horrid and by the way its DYNATRAC and the rear prorock 60 is pushing 10 grand now for a mid optioned one, i do not even want to know what an 80 costs. I ran 10 bolts ( equal to real 44s) with 35 inch tires with a v8 that has 75% of the torque of a brand new coyote engine (400 for coyote and 300 for mine) in a truck that is 1000 pounds heavier than the heaviest TJ with a pretty heavy foot and had no issues and i have more gear in my boxes than can even fit in a lot of TJs let alone when i went full camping mode with all my boxes and gear. If its a real pair of 44s (not the jeep bastardization of them) and he has a light foot then it runs the line of either lasting decades with those tires or needs a new axle every other weekend, it can go either way and, i have seen it both ways but i base my info off leaf sprung full size trucks not lighter coil sprung jeeps. i say go for it man a 450 HP 400 torque engine is not that big as mine will be close to that with my new engine and i personally am not impressed with the I6 (even the 4.7 stroker) for larger builds

[MultiScuf]

Robert B previously posted: