Front axle pop

[Salsa91]

Alright, so I have a pop in my front axle or so it sounds like it. Thursday night I did snow removal and I took the xj. When I tried to put in 4hi, the first couple of times the front axle wouldn't engage but 4lo would. Finally it engaged. Then I did snow removal again last night and again took a couple of tries to engage. From a dead stop on snow/ice, if I get on skinny pedal pretty good I feel hear a pop for a slight second, feel the rear axle slip for that instance, and then the front axle grabs and all is good.

Could it it be the CAD? I would assume once engaged, it shouldn't disengage for any reason right?

[Patrolman]

My understanding is that it is vacuum operated, so I believe that if it loses vacuum, then it disengages. If that is truly how it works, I would start by looking for a vacuum leak.

[Salsa91]

Well that was my first thought also but it doesn't/or hasn't done it in 4lo....

[Dutch]

Best fix is to find a non-CAD axle and swap it in. The CAD housing is a weak point, the court is a weak point, and they can cause a lot of maintenance headache.

Check for vacuum leaks, make sure it's nothing simple like that. Otherwise you might want to look inside the housing at the fork and coupler, make sure they aren't worn out or damaged. Plenty of times though Ive seen them get hung up, especially in the cold. If it doesn't engage shortly after switching into 4wd then try shifting in and out of 4wd a few times while gently rolling the vehicle. Another thing that works is hitting the fork housing on the CAD (the removable section on the back side of the axle) with a hammer. I've had the. Get stuck engaged and disengaged, honestly I think they're junk and not worth the hassle.

[Salsa91]

I'll have to check it out to make sure.
As far as the axle swap, I actually found an xj at the snow removal company I work for that is just laying around. I need to get ahold of them and try working a deal. I wish I had more time to spend time a the junkyard and pick one up there

[Jim]

Salsa91 previously posted:

[Rick]

Dutch previously posted:

[Patrolman]

Salsa91 previously posted:

[Salsa91]

That's been one of the main reasons I don't get too serious about going to junkyards

[gm4x4lover]

Are you sure its not the chain in the t-case jumping teeth?

[Dutch]

It could be a t-case issue but typically a stretched chain is more likely to pop in low range than high range due to the increased torque. Even then when I've seen it happen it was only when climbing an obstacle requiring an increased load to be placed on the t-case.

I would look at the CAD unit first and rule it out. Then if it seems good move on to the t-case.

You can also swap the 2-piece shaft out for a 1 piece shaft and keep your axle housing. You'll have to pull the carrier to install the correct axle seal but it's pretty easy to do. There are write-ups about it floating around the Internet.

[dieseldoc]

For the CAD you can get a cable actuator from OX. They are around $150 and easy instal.
Or you can do the full length axle to completely iliminate the issue.

[Salsa91]

For the CAD in my axle, is it a collar that is shifted over the axle shafts when engaged? If so about how long is it?

[dieseldoc]

Yes the collar is the issue....its a week spot.
The shift forks are week as well. But the cable unit will make the shift more positive.
The best fix is the full length axle. But this is the high dollar fix.

[dieseldoc]

That collar cant be more the 2" maybe 2.5"

[Stu]

You will want a non CAD axle for the over the knuckle steering you were looking at as well. With OTK steering, the new track bar mount will need to be welded on right where the CAD is on the axle tube.

[Rick]

Dutch previously posted:

[Dutch]

Going to the 1 piece axle won't cost any more than the cable. In fact it might cost less.

[Salsa91]

Everything will bolt up directly right? And will I be able to swap in the gears that I have now?

[Stu]

Just make sure its the same rotation (should be high pinion) and you should be set. Would be a good idea to check bearings, bushings, ball joints if you are sourcing from the JY. And before swapping it in would be a good time to add the OTK track bar mount and/or truss if you want.