"explain more how you tested ball joints. I have never done a "push pull'' test for ball joints."
huzzah i can finally put one of my vids to use and as aforementioned grab at 12 and 6 and move hands is opposing directions to do this
Yeah that's pretty worn out haha. I had my buddy help me with that and I didn't see any play in the ball joints but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check them again.
Defiantly some play in thoes babies lol.
This is pretty much what I thought your doing. I dont totally agree witht is method Although you can clearly see bad ball joints
The way I shake down a front end is : tie rod ends hands at 3 and 9 push pull, wheel bearing hands at 12 and 6 push pull, Ball joints with a long bar at least 2.5 or longer under the raised wheel raising the bar up and down with leverage.
Two reasons I do this...I wont mix up any wheel bearing issues with ball joints. Other reason ball joint are in a up and down position so should be checked in a up and position.
Ill see is I can find a YouTube vid in case I make no sense
if both are bad yes i could see up and down also working but if only one is bad im not sure if it will move much and also the best way to do all this is 2 ppl... because mine were way bad (the dana lean was gone completely) but if they are just starting to go bad you will be able to fell them much much easier than see them and the bar could work real well though to remove the wheel bearing from the equation because in mine you can see that and probably some tire movement before the ball joint moves .... all good ideas to use ..note same with tie rods and etc much easier to feel them clicking than to see them
I see your point when it comes to a solid axle. I guess my way is 99% correct for Independent suspension not so much for a solid axle with one bad ball joint. Learn something new everyday.
GREAT POINT adam all my work is on a live axle so if its independent find someone else for tips and tricks lol as i dont own a lifted independent truck just my lil car
Bob (November 17th, 2014)
Alright, so I replaced the 37's with the 35's. I balanced them and then threw them on the jeep. I also replaced the tie rod at the pitman arm(only tie rid left to replace). I then did the DIY alignment and holy cow!! The toe was pretty bad! I adjusted. Checked everything else, looks like the trac bar at the frame is loose/worn. I was by myself when I decide to check the balljoints and I can feel some play but couldn't see it so I don't know how bad it is. Drove it home and the whole rig feels more solid and drives straighter. However, since I've experienced dw in it before, I'm afraid it could happen again. So I'm still a lil uncomfortable driving it around.
Anyways, there's the update and thanks for everyone's input
Sounds safer !!
Fix the track bar, put the jeep on the alignment rack. A good tech will spot any other worn components. From that point, you can consider having them replace parts.
For sure. The trac bar is an aftermarket adjustable trac bar. Do I have to buy the whole trac bar? Or could I just be able to pick up a new end? Or is there a rebuild kit for that end?
You should be able to replace or repair the end. Got picture?
Check the jam nut at the threaded adjustment point on the track bar and make sure it is not loose (if it is then the threads may be shot). Then check the bracket at the upper mounting point to make sure that it is attached solidly to the unibody. Then check both track bar mounting points. If the heim joint or bushing is worn out, it can just be replaced. But... the most common problem is that the mounting hole in the stock track bar mount on the axle can become ovaled out. So even though the bushing is good and the bolt is tight you can still have movement there.
That's great advice. I usually weld a washer over the hole on the axle side because it is a very common fail point.
Toretto knows