4.0 Rear Main Seal & Valve Cover Gasket

[Java]

r/r the valve cover. painted it too while it was out. more time cleaning than anything else, it's a pretty easy job. It was leaking everywhere it could, so I replaced both PCV grommets as well as the gasket. If you have a 4.0 you can buy atleast one of the PCV grommets from the HELP! rack at most autoparts stores, Dorman 2321-07012802. If you have a 2005-2006 the rear one is Chrysler 53013743AB, as I found out the hard way. I did spark plugs and a new oil filter while I was in the area, and replaced the 1/2" PCV hose.

[Java]

busy week, still breaking down and cleaning stuff. Cleaning has been the biggest part of all of this. The oil pan has 3 different types of bolts / studs in different holes, after the 3rd one came out I realized future Paul was going to **** this up, so I idiot-proofed myself with the gasket, the box it came in and a screwdriver. hth some other idiot!

[glacierpaul]

"future Paul was going to **** this up" That would make a good t-shirt for us Pauls . That is how I do any tear downs of anything, lots of pics are good to for some stuff, like wiring. Way to get after it Paul!

[The StRanger]

Lookin good !!

[Java]

I take a lot of pics of stuff too, Paul, and I usually set up the camera on a tripod and take close up video when I take stuff apart. Cuts down on the "wtf did I do?" moments.

So on step 14 in this write up of the rear main seal http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811 he uses a LOT more RTV than was on the pan when I took it out. I remember on my 258 it didn't use that much either, and that had a gasket that was in 3 pieces. My pan has four spots of it, about 1/2" long, but this guy is all over the top and bottom of the seal front and rear. I like it, especially based on results, mine is leaking all around and the bolts only get torqued to 12 lbs... so I'm thinking of doing the whole thing with a light coat top and bottom. I know it's overkill, but I like overkill as long as it doesn't hurt anything. I can't think of a downside, except that I may waste some of my own time and RTV. Any reason it would have a negative effect? Thanks!!

[xaza]

If you get too much it will squeeze out inside and break away eventually contaminating the oil and possibly create a blockage.

[Hypoid]

xaza previously posted:

[Java]

some progress this weekend. here's the rebuilt oil pump, there are 5 working parts and a gasket, everything only goes in one way and two of them fall out for you when you open it. it took 5 minutes to rebuild it. Beyond easy.



Here's the bearing cap, it seems it was leaking around the sides of the cap, not the seal. The RMS actually looked fine, I'm thinking my problem was more with the oil pan and valve cover. I found a nice dent on the pan that may have shifted it when it happened, IDK for sure.



Cleaned, new seal.



top half is in there, you can see the ends of it.





"less is more"



back in, just need to reconnect the exhaust. I'm leaving the skid plate off until Im sure I didn't make a mistake (pretty sure I didn't) and I'm draining / refilling the transmission while it's off. tcase too.

[Java]

Finally wrapped it up today. Got the exhaust clamped where I cut it, I think I'm going to pick up an extra one of these clamps for my parts bag.



Pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked it over a bit, thanks Cliff!



Did this too, it came in the box with the pump parts. I didn't submerge it, I filled it from the top and spun it. Had to be very careful not to spill it onto the gasket surface when I put it in.



Pressure came up right away.

[The StRanger]

Vey nice.. Where did ya get the clamp from ??

[Java]

IIRC it was Hypoid who recommended the parts store, and I got it at O'Rileys for under $15.00. It feels solid, zero play.

[The StRanger]

Ill check them tomorrow. I could use a few !!

[xaza]

nice job