There is also one heck of a knife edge on the traverse between N and S Maroon peaks.
There is also one heck of a knife edge on the traverse between N and S Maroon peaks.
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Tom
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Schmitty (September 4th, 2021),speedkills (August 29th, 2021),The StRanger (August 29th, 2021)
That may be the best image I have ever seen posted, so accurate it hurts.
Scrolling through some odd vehicle pix tonight...
Bummed I can't make it out on the run today, saw this pic and immediately had the following reaction, enjoy
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Steven
2004 Wrangler Rubicon
It's a 2wd DJ (surrey specifically)...it never was much to begin with.
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Found a really old horseshoe covered in rust about 10 years ago at Barr Lake. It's been hanging over my garage door eversince, but I am repainting my house and garage so it came down. I put it in a tupperware with Vinegar for two weeks, the rust formed what looked like a really gross doughnut, now I'm going to straighten it a bit and clear coat it before putting it back up. Grade school science FTW!
Schmitty (November 12th, 2021),The StRanger (October 1st, 2021)
Nice
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In a never ending search for the proper mix of dirt & rock !
A bit of ?closure? (hah - not - maybe I should say "another chapter") on the fuel delivery issues I have a history of. This time the looooonnng crank issue from Kelly Flats that turned into No-Run before the cleanup run.
Summary: Bottom line - the Jeep's runnnig but I, sadly / frustratingly, can't say why. I changed two items at once and it's running - but later testing one of the items - still inconclusive.
Detail: Most know this 90 Jeep came factory as carbureted. Someone before me converted it to MPFI. The carb designed fuel sender assembly in the gas tank was hacked up for MPFI fuel pump use. I had issues with the pump failing (first trip or two with the group - it failed on Ironclads). Pump replaced, it failed a time or two with the flexible fuel hose slipping off of the straight walled tube. There is no "hose barb" at the end of the tube. Somewhere in there I made the wholly recommended cut in the back floor for easy from-the-top access to the fuel sender / pump assembly. At the end of the Maze trip, the hose again slipped off of the straight tube (photo). Not thinking that could be the problem, I tossed a parts-dart at the fuel pressure regulator. It was original - perhaps it failed and was dumping all fuel so that fuel rail pressure was zero. I do not have a fuel pressure meter (though now I know I can get a loaner from the parts store). Anyway, fuel pressure regulator did not fix the Maze District no-start issue so I went and did what I should have done first thing - inspected the fuel pump's connection to the sender. It had come apart leaving the fuel pump happily pumping fuel within the fuel tank.
I do not have a tool to make a hose barb at the end of the line so I went down the hack path and made the flexible hose longer so that I could get more hose clamps on the straight metal tube side. If two's not working - maybe four will be the ticket???? The jeep was back in operation - until Kelly Flats several weeks back. It started to have an unusually long crank before it'd catch and run (a condition I have never experienced with this jeep). Again, not opening the tank to inspect the fuel pump my mind was - let's swap out that new fuel pressure regulator and put in the old one. Same issue - no start. A slight catch that would run on a cylinder or two for but two seconds and die. Off to the parts store for a fuel pressure gauge - zero pounds is the reading.
Open up the fuel tank - the fuel pump is soundly connected to the assembly. Did the pump fail?? I went and stuck in a new pump AND changed the fuel pressure regulator back to the new unit - and it started. Fuel pressure sits at ~31/32 PSI at idle (vac line connected to the regulator) and ~40PSI whacking the throttle. Those numbers seem correct from what I found for specs. So was it the old pump or was it the pressure regulator??? For somewhat of a test I took the old fuel pump (9 years old / 40K miles) and put it into a gas can and connected it to the fuel rail. The jeep runs just fine - solid fuel rail pressure numbers too. So I'm scratching my head - but it's running.
Does anyone have a tool that can put a hose barb into a metal line (I tried a flaring tool with no success with the flare)? If not that, maybe I should get a metal line that has a hose barb and braze the two tubes together (sleeved connection). Perhaps I should scout the local yards for a full replacement - fuel injection intended, fuel tank setup.
The picture shows what I found after getting a tow home at the end of the Maze District trip. The flexible line with two clamps slid off of the straight metal tube. That fuel line is now longer and has four clamps for the section with the straight walled pipe.
Did a double flare not work, or did you only try a single flare. The cheap double flare tools from ace or local parts store don't usually work great for actual connections like brake lines, but would be good enough for this as it's only one side and to make the lip on the end. Also could look for non-screw style hose clamps. The screw style create a 'flat' spot in the ring where the screw portion is that doesn't seat well in the hose and fitting. It's usually not an issue on larger diameter hoses like radiator, but is magnified on small hoses like fuel. Finally, whole big new can o worms, but for the higher pressure of fuel injection, I would look into AN fittings...but then you'd probably have to redo the sending unit (hint, hint...)...or just toss the whole engine and fuel system and bolt in a new 4.0 or even a 4.7 stroker....wow that escalated quickly
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Try roughening up the aluminum tube to increase the friction between it and the hose. If the pump is attached and set to the correct height it should be almost sitting on the bottom of the tank. I don't see how there would be enough room for it to slip off.
Does your tool do a bubble flare or a double flare Jim? I think you can use an incomplete bubble flare (not stretched all the way) or just the first step of a double flare to get a sort of hose barb. Alternatively, if you don't want to deal with the brazing you could use a plain flare, then use that to bolt a hose barb fitting onto the end.
Also, I have a flaring tool that can do bubble flares if yours does not.
Jim (October 4th, 2021)
I didn't realize just how little wheeling I've done this year until this morning, it was kind of an aha moment. I'm getting our rigs ready to go to the desert this week, another in a long line of trips I've either shortened or missed altogether this year, and I got an error code in the Jeep for a loose gas cap. I haven't put gas in it in a while so that seemed odd, turns out the seal on the cap has been sitting so long it stuck to the filler end. I guess the change in temperature overnight caused it to contract and leak, when I took it off it tore. I have put off too much fun for work in 2021 trying to make up for 2020. Life is too short...
I feel that man. I fixed the fuel filling issue in the Rubicon and still haven't been able to take it out...the most miserable assignment I've ever had ends in June next year. Already counting down the days and looking forward to an amazing summer of wheeling, camping, and some other vacations
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Steven
2004 Wrangler Rubicon