Front Range 4x4 Upcoming Trail Runs - Add a New Trail Run

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Thread: Mod For The Day

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Jim previously posted:
    "ooooh - I like this idea!

    Just went to measure the YJ - 5'9" back window to dashboard - 6' if I move a bit higher to get above the dash to the windshield glass (though the back window slants inward).

    I'll be curious to hear how it works for you (soft top sealed enough to keep mosquitoes out?)."

    I am not particularly worried about mosquitoes on this trip. I suppose the Jeep is not sealed well enough to guarantee bugs won't get in, but I haven't ever had troubles with bugs in the Jeep when I have the top and doors on during other long trips, even week-long trips in Moab. I don't see why sleeping in the Jeep might be worse for bugs than all of the ways I've used it before.

    Here's some more detail on how the platform works:

    View from rear without mattress in the way


    Main storage area underneath to front seats


    Extension for sleeping. The extension is held to the main platform with some 3" screws that I drop into through-holes through the extension piece and the 2x4 at the front of the platform. I secure the screws with wingnuts from below. This keeps the platform from slipping off the 2x4 or trying to pivot up on the dowels that support the extension further out. The dowels are 1" cut to length. I used some metal shower rod holders (the kind that are full circle rings) screwed into the bottom of the extension to keep the dowels in place. I can simply pull the dowels out when I lift the top extension to store it.


    As for the main box, I did not make it the full width of the body tub on purpose. The rear seat brackets sit at the edges of the floor, and I did not want the box to have to sit on those brackets nor did I want to make some fancy cuts to try to bridge the upright pieces over the brackets. The upside of this is that I am able to use the seat brackets to secure the box into the Jeep. I put a hitching ring (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...3324/205883077) on the outside of the box on each side directly above the seat brackets. I then used a turnbuckle and some s-hooks on each side to link the hitching ring and the seat bracket together firmly. The entire Jeep moves when I push or pull on the platform now, so I'm pretty confident it won't come loose and hit me in the head while I'm on obstacles in Moab. The turnbuckles mean I can easily unmount this from the Jeep any time without permanent modifications.

  2. The Following 2 Members Say Thanks to open_circuit For This Post:

    Tank15 (October 2nd, 2020),TDash (August 10th, 2021)

  3. #1522
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Paul previously posted:
    "Awesome! I use a similar mattress and adding one of these underneath made it much more comfortable, fwiw https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Thick-E...01NCEUNU1?th=1"

    I have a similar mat that I will use on this trip -- a high density foam mat that we used to isolate out treadmill from the floor when we had a treadmill. I am considering cutting it to fit the top panels when I make a more permanent version of this later. The mat offers both padding and slip/skid resistance.

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    open_circuit previously posted:
    "I don't see why sleeping in the Jeep might be worse for bugs than all of the ways I've used it before."

    It's my thinking that mosquitoes can smell carbon dioxide and human sweat. During the day, the jeep's moving - but at night, doors and windows closed - the jeep not moving, I'd think those human smells would seep out through gaps in the soft top - which could be the path in.

    That's my thinking - I hope you report back that you had no issue (and then if I do this, I might not have an issue - mosquitoes love to attack me).

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Jim previously posted:
    "It's my thinking that mosquitoes can smell carbon dioxide and human sweat. During the day, the jeep's moving - but at night, doors and windows closed - the jeep not moving, I'd think those human smells would seep out through gaps in the soft top - which could be the path in.

    That's my thinking - I hope you report back that you had no issue (and then if I do this, I might not have an issue - mosquitoes love to attack me)."

    The Jeep sleeping solution worked better than I imagined. I used some bug netting over the front windows, but I left the back window unzipped and just loosely tucked in all night. We never noticed a bug in the tent in the evenings any night we slept in the Jeep. The back window could let even very large things in if they were determined to get in, but I didn't notice anything coming through.

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Fantastic!

    Thx for the update.

  7. #1526
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Installed USA Standard (Yukon-made, as far as I can tell) chromoly axles with new spicer U-joints today. Also got notice that my new hard top shipped, so I should have that in a couple weeks.

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    Tom (December 26th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    open_circuit previously posted:
    "Installed USA Standard (Yukon-made, as far as I can tell) chromoly axles with new spicer U-joints today. Also got notice that my new hard top shipped, so I should have that in a couple weeks."

    Awesome!
    ___________
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    -.- . ----- .-- - -.-.

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Spent part of the day planning out a water pump system for my 7 gallon aquatainer. Amazon sells many battery powered water pumps (see examples here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YWEPbO8500) which can be recharged via USB. The idea is to run a length of food-safe tubing from the water tank to the pump. This allows me to keep my ~60 lb water tank secured in one place but have easy access to the water. Most folks who have tried this online have some hokey solution for connecting the tubing to the container because of the proprietary thread pitch used on the aquatainer caps and spigots. (good example of the plumbing fitting problems here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8bQIm792Yw)

    I stopped at the local homebrew store today and found a couple of drilled rubber bungs which fit into the cap (size 5.5) and spigot (size 3) of aquatainer. The bungs have a ~9.5mm bore through the center. I plan to run 10mm OD silicon tubing through this bung as a dip-tube into the water tank. I'll put a fitting (TBD) on the outside of the bung where I can easily make/break the feed line connection to the pump. I then plan to have about 10-15 feet of feed line available so I can use the pump at the rear hatch or either side door in a convenient location. I grabbed both size bungs because I'm not sure whether I want to plug the spigot or the main threaded hole on the cap yet. I think the main hole will work best, but having two sizes available will allow me to adapt the system as I use it. The best (or maybe this will prove to be the worst part) of this system is that the bungs and dip tube can be easily removed and the cap/spigot can be reassembled so the container can be used in the traditional configuration if anything should fail with the pump system.

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    I don't quite picture your plan though from your initial rubber bungs it made me think of the rubber fuel tank / fuel hose fittings I have on the ultralight.

    1) One drills a 33/64" hole into the tank, 2) slips in the rubber bushing 3) presses in a fitting (it's a hard press).

    No leaks of fluid. The fitting can 'spin' in the rubber bushing for desired alignment.

    These are the items:
    https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/...k-bushing.html
    https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/...hed-elbow.html

    It's for 1/4" tubing - I don't know if that's too small for your project.

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Jim previously posted:
    "I don't quite picture your plan though from your initial rubber bungs it made me think of the rubber fuel tank / fuel hose fittings I have on the ultralight.

    1) One drills a 33/64" hole into the tank, 2) slips in the rubber bushing 3) presses in a fitting (it's a hard press).

    No leaks of fluid. The fitting can 'spin' in the rubber bushing for desired alignment.

    These are the items:
    https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/...k-bushing.html
    https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/...hed-elbow.html

    It's for 1/4" tubing - I don't know if that's too small for your project."

    Sounds similar to what I'm doing. When all of the parts arrive in a week-ish and I get everything assembled in the garage, I'll post some photos. Next weekend and the week after is shaping up to be busy with the hard top scheduled to arrive, so I might not get to the water system until the weekend after.

    I decided to go with 3/8" (9.8mm OD) PEX supply line kit for an RO water system (or freezer ice maker supply line). The rubber bung is only needed to hold the line in place and seal off the top of my water container. The supply line kit was cheap and comes with some ball valves and elbow fittings.

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Here's the stock tank


    Here are the non-standard threads for the spigot (spigot screws into this collar so you can flip it inside the tank for storage and transport -- thread from the inside or outside of the collar)


    And here's the bung in place of the spigot


    I'll just run my dip tube line through the bung and install an elbow fitting and in-line ball valve here on the top, then run my feed line from the ball valve out to the pump.

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    Jim (December 28th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Cool idea. A threaded bung/nipple seems like the kind of thing a 3D printer could make pretty easily... just a thought.
    ___________
    ~Not All Who Wander Are Lost~ (at least not all the time)

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Spieg previously posted:
    "3D printer could make pretty easily"

    And perhaps even use the smaller air vent connection

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Spieg previously posted:
    "Cool idea. A threaded bung/nipple seems like the kind of thing a 3D printer could make pretty easily... just a thought."

    Yes, it is an option. I have a 3d printer and could make a part, but I would need to make it in a food safe material and probably replace my brass printer nozzle with stainless steel for the task. It's something to consider if I have trouble with this solution. I am not sure how I would begin to model the threads to replicate them.

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    As I posted in my recent moab trip report, I managed to crunch the passenger rear corner pretty good....so some repair work is in the works....


    I tried hammering it out see what might happen, but it really didn't go very well (probably made it worse), so I ordered a replacement repair panel from classic enterprises (I used them for the rear body mounts and driver floorpan/hat channel previously)...chatted with them on the phone, and I will still have some metal massage work to do along the top as their panel comes to just a bit below the 1" step-out (the same one that makes the bow notch)....He said I could either butt weld it, or I could leave a little extra hanging down and overlap it.....we'll see when it all gets here and I can take some measurements on how much to cut out....eventually, the repair panel (and driver side corner) will get some warrior 1/8" corner armor for a bit more protection (and to help cover up my body work).

    Until then...I decided to relocate the filler neck to the rear instead of on the side - this is close where it would have been on a 72-75 intermediate cj5 (it would actually have been right where the reverse light is - the reverse lights got moved up higher), and also is more protected than sticking out off the side of the rear quarter like I had it before. I got it to fit decently above the reverse light and just below the top of the inner fender - even left just enough room for the hose to overlap on the filler neck.


    I ended up just making a homemade version of the intermediate filler hose with two pieces, and added in the metal sleeve to join the two sections of hose and it also has the vent hose nipple welded into it. I have some old intermediate filler hoses salvaged from the JY when I got the tank etc, they were just too old and hard to try re-using, and I think I like the metal sleeve nipple better than the OEM set-up with the nipple going into the hose and using a flat washer and gasket to seal. I tried that method on my first filler and I could never get it to seal permanently (even with gas resistant RTV).


    ok - about done with this for now...can't do much until I get the new repair panel in and have time to work on it after returning from a big trip over the next month....but I am pretty happy with how the new fuel filler location turned out. This is really the way I wanted to do it when I originally did the rear tank add....going to drive it over to the other side of town while we have a break in the snow for a day or so (don't want to deal with putting the top on) and park it for a while in my father's garage.
    ___________
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  21. #1536
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    I keep saying we are going to move on from my 2010 tacoma one of these days - its been the best DD I've ever had. We bought it at one year old with a bit under 10k miles, and I've had it since and now has 170+k. I've been slacking just a bit on maintenance as I haven't been planning to keep it much longer, but the price of used and new vehicles post Covid is pretty insane. So as the truck is going to have to hit the road again later this summer and fall for more big trips, I am biting the bullet and putting a bit of money into it to make sure its good to go for the next year and then maybe a replacement can happen. Of course, last fall it got a new frame from Toyota as part of the recall, and I put some new (albeit slightly budget) tires on it. I was feeling like it was time for new shocks - still running the OEM bilstein 4600 after 170k. I was figuring I'd just replace with the same, but it seems the new tires are ever so slightly bigger then the previous sets of the same size from a different manufacturer and its causing some annoying rubbing under compression/sharp turn. Maybe the front springs are starting to sag just a bit etc, plus with the new frame, it also got new rear leafs that lifted the backend up just a bit and it seems to have more rake angle than ever before...I thought I'd look around for the adjustable ride height bilstein 5100 shocks and found a set lightly used on FB marketplace and they even included new OME front coils. But the coils are not stock replacement, but rather 2.5" lift springs (the shocks are OEM replacement length).


    Not sure if I am going to use the coils - 2.5" of lift is probably more than I want, but I might put them on and see. I was planning to just use my OEM springs and set the strut ride height up about 1.5" to ensure front tire clearance and level the truck a bit, but I still want a bit of rake and don't want to be riding low in the rear when the bed is loaded. The price was a good enough deal just for all 4 shocks (and swaybar relocation spacers included), and if I use the OME springs - which usually have great ride quality, all the better deal. Otherwise I might be posting up some OME tacoma lift springs for sale. Here is a comparison of the shock tube diameter of the OEM 4600 and the aftermarket 5100 - amazingly, the old 4600s still seemed to have a lot of life left in them. I guess I am used to the cheapie hydro shocks I run on my jeeps - they don't seem to last a few years.


    After dealing with some frozen up fasteners (and this thing was just apart less than 9 months ago!), I got the rears installed...


    Time to mess with the coil-overs on the front now (and new serpentine belt going on while the front skid plate and other stuff is off). Need to get the windshield replaced as well - but apparently the hail storm from a couple weeks ago has everyone way backed up and I can't even get a quote or returned phone call. I replaced the front brake pads for the first time at close to 120k, but didn't do the rotors...and the rear drums have never been touched (I checked them when tires are rotated). Might be time for complete brake overall, and I am not sure about some of my steering linkage and cv joints etc, but they may be on the list as well. I am sure as soon as I do all this, I will find the perfect replacement vehicle and have to sell it!
    Willys? Do I have a willys project I am supposed to be working on? Just ignoring that for now...need a break from that frustration.
    ___________
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Got the front Bilstein 5100s in....I first tried to put the entire new OME coil and Bilstein assembly in as I know the OME coil springs are really nice. But the 2.5" lift was just too much for what I wanted, and without a small spacer or AAL in the rear, the truck was looking tail low - which is not my preference. So pulled them back out, and swapped the new Bilstein 5100s into the old factory coil springs, and set the adjustable ride height 1 notch above the lowest (factory) height. Reportedly this is around 0.75" bump in ride height when using the factory springs. Removing the old shocks from the old factory springs was as expected using the standard, 2-threaded clamp spring compressor. But the new OME spring did not have enough gap between the individual coils to fit the clamps - I finally gave up and took them to a local shop that sometimes does little cash projects I just can't or don't have the tools to do....Anyway, got the new shocks into the old springs with just under an inch of lift on the front and everything seems great (except the odd, dual thread bolt that holds the wheel speed sensor bracket to the control arm - thread is all mangled and a new one on order from dealership).





    With the Nankang tires I put on last summer, although they are the same p-metric size, they are physically just a bit taller than the previous sets of Hankooks I ran, and have been getting just a bit of rubbing on the front at full stuff and lock - seems like that maybe gone testing around and on the neighborhood curbs. And after 10 years, I do like the slightly more level look although its still raked about 1.5 inches higher in the rear which is good. Basically it was time for new shocks, and seemed like it an easy way to get both quality new shocks and address the front ride height easily. I'll have a set of OME 888 (2.5 lift) springs for sale along with the sway bar spacer. Next up is shop work for alignment and new windshield glass next week.
    ___________
    James Orofino
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    Jen asked me today if when a drop of oil is left in the garage, does a transmission grow from it....I think she noticed the new to me T18 sitting on the floor (and she recognized its not the sm465 that is usually sitting on the floor). Thanks to a couple of ecj5 friends, this 4:1 T18 from a 72-75 cj made it from California to my garage - thanks guys! Its not the famed 6:1 granny low, but when combined with the existing 4.88 axles and 3.15 D18, the CR will be close to 62, and it comes ready to mount to large case D18 Texas pattern currently in my jeep as it was mounted to a D20 with the same pattern in its previous life. Of course, its a 6 spline output, and as I have a T14 with 10spline and its mated to the OD with smaller barrel gear for the D18 low gears, I'll have to decide whether to swap out the mainshaft to 10 spline, or swap out the OD planetaries to 6-spline. But, none of that is going to happen soon...this was really just an opportunity purchase at the right price with friends to transport it to me, and its going to sit on the shelf for a bit until either the 58 is done, or I blow up the T14.




    the gears look pretty good - a bit of corrosion on some of the teeth that were sitting above the oil line and had condensation build up etc...


    Kyle (who plucked it for me from a CA junkyard) mentioned the shift rails also had some corrosion/rust from condensation, but with some penetrating oil, heat and love, I got them freed up and it was able to put the cover back on and shift through all the gears...not perfect, but I think it'll get better once its actually used and flushed with fresh hot oil etc.
    ___________
    James Orofino
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Coolness!!

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Great find! I had a T18a from an old ford in my last jeep, it had the 6.32 first gear and it was most often too low to be useful, I think you've got the better one for overall use.

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