Front Range 4x4 Upcoming Trail Runs - Add a New Trail Run

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Thread: Mod For The Day

  1. #1561
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Got lucky on the gear install and hit a good pattern first try.
          
    ___________
    2021 JLU 3.0D/8HP75/NP241OR/D44/D44
    1987 MJ 4.0 (or 4.6)/AW4/ORD Monster Box/NP205/HP60/D80 on 40's with ARBs (that's the plan anyway, ETA 2022)

    If you can't fix it with a hammer or duct tape you have an electrical problem

  2. #1562
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    derf previously posted:
    "Got lucky on the gear install and hit a good pattern first try."

    Bet that made your day.
    ___________
    Tom
    -.- . - . - -.-

  3. #1563
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Tom previously posted:
    "Bet that made your day."

    The .006 backlash we got just before that was even better.
    ___________
    2021 JLU 3.0D/8HP75/NP241OR/D44/D44
    1987 MJ 4.0 (or 4.6)/AW4/ORD Monster Box/NP205/HP60/D80 on 40's with ARBs (that's the plan anyway, ETA 2022)

    If you can't fix it with a hammer or duct tape you have an electrical problem

  4. #1564
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    got my Staun knock-offs in the mail today, so I used my spare to set them to 13-14lbs. ready for quick air-down at the next run!



    J.
    ___________
    05 4Runner Sport - 3" lift, 35s & v8 POWA!

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Keep an eye on those, I may have just been unlucky but mine constantly floated around on me, I would set them all to 18psi, then check after using them for a month or so and would have one wheel at 10psi and one at 20. When they would stay set though they were pretty nice to have.

  6. #1566
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    speedkills previously posted:
    "Keep an eye on those, I may have just been unlucky but mine constantly floated around on me, I would set them all to 18psi, then check after using them for a month or so and would have one wheel at 10psi and one at 20. When they would stay set though they were pretty nice to have."

    I took the springs out of my knock offs and just time and check periodically for desired pressure.
    ___________
    Tom
    -.- . - . - -.-

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    yeah, these were $12 on eBay, so I'm not expecting great things. just maybe to save my knees a bit when airing down.

    J.
    ___________
    05 4Runner Sport - 3" lift, 35s & v8 POWA!

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    They are great for the that. I timed it on my LR4 and they were almost exactly the same time to air down as the valve-core removal air down gauges but definitely easier on the knees.

  9. #1569
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    I love having pre-set deflators - I have been thinking of getting a set for the Taco as the ones I use in the jeep are set to 9psi which is too low for the Taco. FWIW, I have the trailhead version of these deflators, and they have always worked to within 1psi of my original setting. I did find that every couple years, its worth disassembling and cleaning the little rubber stoppers on the inside and I put ever so slight a coating of silicon on them to keep them moving and sealing freely.
    https://www.trailheaddeflators.com/
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  10. The Following 3 Members Say Thanks to FINOCJ For This Post:

    Jim (November 19th, 2021),speedkills (November 19th, 2021),Tom (November 19th, 2021)

  11. #1570
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    The rear seam between the corner panel and the taillight panel that I welded together last fall starting pulling apart after just a wheeling trip or two....


    As usual, my welding is pretty questionable. Been procrastinating on fixing it, but wanted to strengthen things up before Leadville. I managed to get the seams clamped together, and even get some holes drilled in one side of the pinch with the right angle drill.


    Then I did my best to weld it back up....Between having issues getting all the rubber undercoating cleaned off, gas flow, difficult access and my general incompetence welding, well in climbing there is a saying that if you can't tie the knot, make sure you tie a lot....I sort of went with the if you can't weld well, weld it like hell....its ugly from the underside, but its back together. Spray some more rubber undercoating over it and maybe no-one will notice.


    Will also have to clean up the paint in the seam area from the heat damage, and wondering if this is a good time to put the corner armor on....
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    I've been trying to determine if a cyclic, speed related 'whompf-whompf-whompf' sound and vibration is some sort of bearing going bad, or if its just unbalanced, chunky, cupped, worn tires causing the concerning issue....I've been listening to all the bearings, first using hose etc, and then for $5, bought the HF stethoscope - man does it really help with listening. Pretty much ruled out the driveshaft u-joints as it made the sound with them removed. So been focusing on the rear axle - Got some help to spin the tires while I listened....did this both with the differential open and with it locked - which also allowed me to listen to the D18 ouput bearing and whatnot. With everything turning (diff locked), all the bearing spots sound pretty similar and smooth - there is a consistent/smooth hum, but nothing that sounds like I would think a bad bearing would. With the diff open, you get a distinctly different sound...kind of a muted clicking or rapid ta-ta-ta-ta sound. In this case, the wheels were spinning exactly opposite and the driveshaft was not turning, so no pinon movement. At first I was concerned of a bad outer axle bearing, but I am pretty certain the sound is the spider gears doing their thing in open mode with differential wheel rotation - especially since its not noticeable when the diff is locked. I took some video to capture the sound with the stethoscope ear bud against the mic...I just thought it was pretty cool what the stethoscope allowed you to hear. You got to turn your volume full up and you can hear it pretty clearly. Just ignore the hissing sound - just before I started the video, I noticed something weird on the tire - so i pulled it out - you can guess the rest.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  13. #1572
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Based on 'commentary' on the colo trip last week when I had to use my winch, it apparently was time to change out my fraying and kinky winch cable. I actually have had an almost new spare 5/16" cable sitting in the parts pile for a couple years from Tom - just didn't seem all that necessary yet. I have an old slow Ramsey REP 8000, and the instructions for the bottom end of the cable that is held to the drum is something akin to:
    Before installing the new cable assembly, make sure end of cable is squarely cut and wrapped with tape to prevent fraying. Form a short 90 bend (approximately " long) in the end of the cable. Position the cable drum so that the large 13/32" diameter hole in the motor end drum flange is approximately on the top. Insert the bent end of cable into the 13/32" hole in the drum flange and then carefully run the winch in the "reel in" direction approximately revolution until the " diameter threaded hole in the drum flange is on top. Secure the cable to the drum flange using cable anchor and capscrew shown in the parts drawing. Securely tighten the capscrew, but do not over-tighten.

    Its the cut the end square and bend a 90 angle and insert into the drum flange hole that never seems all that neat and tidy - albeit its not really a functional issue, and the cable anchor is what is actually used to hold stuff in place when beginning to spool in. But the spare cable I got from Tom has the nicely crimped end with the mounting hole. I probably could have ditched the cable anchor and just used the crimped end, but I threaded a small hole in the drum flange, mounted the crimped end and used the cable anchor...everything got a nice light coat of lubricant and its all wound....it really is much easier to work with the new cable. Should have done this two years ago - thanks Tom!


    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  14. The Following Member Says Thanks to FINOCJ For This Post:

    Tom (August 8th, 2022)

  15. #1573
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Looks good!

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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Not a mod but I replaced the radiator in my JKUR over the weekend.

  17. #1575
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    Default Re: Mod For The Day



    Got a wheeling trip coming up, so went to look the jeep over on Sunday and found a puddle of fluid....the LF shock is donating its fluid to my floor.


    I recognize that I put them in 'upside' down, with the seal downwards - at that leads to issues like this sooner. But, given the typical diameter of many of these new twin tube shocks, they just don't fit on the front with the axle housing and steering knuckle stops etc. I've typically run slightly more budget ($30-40), gas charged, twin tube hydraulic shocks - pretty much the standard shock found with most basic lift kits. I've run both rough country and these were Gabriel Ultra - the shock body pretty much seems identical on a lot of these and is made in Mexico with I think just a different brand sticker put on it - maybe the valving design is proprietary inside. But anyway, they never fit with the seal upwards, and the shock body takes a lot of abuse as it comes into contact with the steering stops. Additionally, seems I get about 5 years of hard use on the front - the rear go twice as long as they are mounted upright and have no clearance issue with axle. In terms of ride quality, the twin tube have always been fine for me - even with the softer BDS springs I don't want anything that makes it ride firmer or stiffer. The worn out 33 MTs are also hard to balance and probably don't help whether driving or towing at highway speed. So I decided to try something new that hopefully fits better and maybe also works just a bit better in some scenarios - although at the risk of making the pavement ride harsh - some Rancho 7000s that are a monotube. Price at RA was good for a monotube ($60) - so figured for the additional $20 per shock I'd give them a try (did all 4).


    As usual, its a bit of fun researching shock lengths and trying to find exactly what you want with a non-stock application. These are recommended for cjs with 2-3" lift....the compressed length is spot on at 14", which gives me about 3.5" of uptravel, and the extended length is 21" - which is only 7" of total travel. My jeep rides at 17-1.5 inches, so pretty much dead center in the range of travel. I think it will work out well although the overall range of travel is a bit less than the standard twin tube I've used. FWIW, these are RS77113....for a more stock ride height needing a shorter shock, looks like RS77119 is correct.

    They have a smaller diameter shock body so they fit (barely) in the upright position - seems the key diameter is 2"....the new monotube is just under 2" and the generic twin tube are 2.25" - that little bit makes it work. We'll see how much external bashing and abuse the shock body takes from the axle....I'll follow with some updates - hoping to test them out this weekend on a wheeling trip.

    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  18. The Following Member Says Thanks to FINOCJ For This Post:

    Tom (1 Week Ago)

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