" But I still need to know how to test a solenoid to see if it's bad."
Check voltage at the outputs before tearing into anything.
http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/...-Testing-Sites
This is from the Super Winch site and covers a simple solenoid test:
http://www.superwinch.com/UserFiles/File/component.pdf
From YotaTech forums and is what I mentioned in my PM reply:
Turns out it was a bad ground to the case. not sure how that happens, maybe a lot of corrosion. anyway I really wanted to have it running for the weekend so i ponied up the $150 to have someone else fix it. it is twice as fast as it was before!
And a good winch check/solenoid check write up:
http://jeeptalk.net/index.php?showto...aded&pid=18748
Mine did the same thing, i just rewired it with a 4 flat trailer wire, same colors and rewired the remote. Now it works great, mine was a corrodrd soliniod. i have a warn 8274, you might try same thing , cheap easy fix.
I'm not Pete, but I'd say either a locked up motor, or a short-circuited winding.
A shorted out winding would be more likely to heat up the cables and/or blow a fuse; no mention of either.
Time to take the winch apart. With any luck, you'll find something cheap that keeps the motor shaft from turning.
If I wasn't so overwhelmed with my own stuff, I'd tell you to bring it down.
Thanks, Mike. I plan to tear into tomorrow. Today was spent wiring up an aux circuit block in the 40 under Chris' watchful eye (and trying to augment my tool collection when Chris wasn't so watchful).
Rob, what was that ohm reading we didn't get? Infinite reading? We got 0 which isn't infinite as far as I guess, what is an infinite reading guys?
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Chris in Florida
You must have been using an analog meter with the needle. It means the resistance is beyond the range of the scale, or the circuit is open.
"0" is no resistance.
A good habit for working with these selectable meters is to start with a higher range, and then switch to lower ranges until the needle sets (more or less) around mid-scale.
Thanks Mike!
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Chris in Florida
All that solenoid testing likely was in vain.)
I got the motor casing off today and it looks like moisture got into the casing. Here are some photos. Sure looks like rust to me. Can this be cleaned out and rebuilt or do I need a new motor?
Also, once I get it working again, how do I keep moisture out of the motor casing? I'd like this to not happen again or happen on the winch on the 40.
That looks pretty rusty to me too Rob! Yuk!
I'll leave options to those that know what they're talking about But I bet it can be cleaned.
I'd try fine sandpaper just on the armature and brushes and see if it works. The rest is just ugly but should't matter.
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Chris in Florida
That looks saturated. If it were mine? I would clean it out and get it moving freely again.
Rob, there are 4 contact points where the brushes contact the armature (big copper colored part) the brushes should move away enough to clean the surface. That should be enough to test it again, it should work then unless the armature is seized itself.
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Chris in Florida
Rob
Get some basic electronic parts cleaner (checker, auto zone, napa, radio shack) and hose off the whole inside of the casing, armature, etc. Then take some very fine (400-600) grit sandpaper and clean off the actual armature where the brushes go, making sure that the spaces between the contact stay clear of crap. Hose it all down again. An air source would be nice to have here, too. Make sure that the whole armature assembly can turn freely, grease what can be greased, hit it with a quick shot of WD 40 to remove any remaining traces of water, button it back up, cross your fingers and give it a go. Looks like the PO left it sitting outside in a mud hole for a year or two...
Well, the silver round thing at the very top spins, but nothing else spins. On the other side, the shaft also doesn't turn. I take it that's bad. Will cleaning it out with electronic parts cleaner unfreeze it?
Well, it will damn sure be a start. Sounds like the armature shaft has now managed to mate with the bearing(s), not a good thing. Without seeing a schematic of the winch, there may very well be a brass bushing at the other end which, in this case, will be better than steel as it is just crud making it stick, not a rust mating problem. I would do the electronic parts cleaner (make sure that you get the non residue, safe on plastics stuff) which, though not great on breaking a bond like rust, does help, WD40, then let it sit for a day or two and see if stuff frees up. I will take a bit for the WD to work down into all the stuff, so you have to give it some time.
If Mike or someone else with more knowledge has a better solution, by all means listen to them. I am merely saying what I would do on a good day. On a regular day, I would have gotten that thing loose by any means possible and freed it up....but it would be my stuff that I was working with, not someone elses....
Thanks, Pete. I'll give it a shot.
Also, each of the brushes has some form of spring that forces the brush against the armature. The brushes (a fairly soft carbon type material) are pretty easily damaged (not to bad, but be careful), but they need to be able to move freely in the little slots/guides. If they are not pushed into contact with the armature bushing (the copper deal with the slots), then electrical contact is non existent or spotty.. Make sure these get the hose down treatment as well, then tomorrow or the next day, carefully try to move them back toward the housing to see if the they are free and that there is spring tension on them.
Oh...the silver thing on the top is a sealed bearing of some sort. There maybe an identical unit on the opposite end, or a brass bushing. These are sometime pressed onto the shaft, so keep that in mind, too. My guess is that they aren't pressed on on winches, but it has been awhile since I had to take one apart.
This actually looks more like salt water damage. Where did the bumper/winch combo come from?
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