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[quote=FINOCJ;345719].I'll probably have to figure out how to functionally extend the cable a bit[/quote]
A thought comes to me (likely not able to be used but I'll toss it out). Instead of using your mount that's 20" behind where you would like it - could you place that mount on a frame rail or cross member that is closer to the clutch?
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]Was trying to prime the oil pump and flow oil up to the rockers today with my priming tool...its the cheapo one I bought for the 225v6 a few years ago (and it worked great), and I was certain it was advertised as also functional for the the sbcv8 (after some review - yes its advertised for the sbc and bbc as well - but a lot of complaints!).[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]Anyway, the driver side valve train primed nicely, but the passenger side was nothing, not an effing drop....so I did all the things you do like turn the crank a bit, run the primer drill for long time, run it at high and low speeds, and then basically freak out that something is really screwed up and some oil galley passageway is blocked and am going to have to disassemble the engine.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]But then some internet research indicates that the generic cheapo priming tool has some sort of design flaw that doesn't work with the sbc set-up....the lower 'bushing' does not match the distributor, and blocks the passenger side oil galley at the pump, or something like that....So I cannibalized the useless HEI that came with the used engine and made my own tool....[/FONT][/COLOR]
[IMG]https://beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/06/PXL_20211107_043215984.jpg[/IMG]
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]You can see the difference in the lower bushing - the blue cheap tool has the bushing higher up the shaft, and the groove between the two ridges is much wider. I welded a hex nut on the end of the 1/2" shaft to make it easier to spin, and my 1/2" drill is big and heavy, and I have very limited space up against the firewall. I am hoping I will be able to spin it with my air ratchet once its installed. Its not really necessary, but I'd like to have the lower end a bit more finished with the 'over' sleeve or collar that goes around the flathead end to help it stay stable on the pump groove. Might have to cannibalize the distributor gear, but would have to either cut off the tooth section, or grind them off in some way (without a mill or lathe).[/FONT][/COLOR]
I am interested in the next installment of this issue...
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]I forgot to add, I haven't actually tested the new tool - was too worn out and tired tonight to continue on with it, but pretty confident its going to work tomorrow. The engine isn't in the vehicle yet, but getting close to trying to set it in. I was adding fluid to all the components as its much easier to fill the trans and transfer case when its not under the vehicle. So then I got a bit sidetracked and tried priming the engine. Wasn't sure how easy it was going to be to get the drill and old priming tool in place with the limited firewall clearance, so I wanted to check some things....and well I found some things. Hoping the new homemade tool will actually work quite a bit better (have easier access and more clearance) once the engine is in place. Did some other tedious stuff today as well with wiring and pedal linkages - nothing fun or exciting. Some fuel line work tomorrow, a bit more wiring and then maybe try dropping the eninge in place. Even then, it will be a while before cranking as there is a lot of electrical to figure out. Switching from the generator with ammeter to the alternator with voltmeter, as well as moving the alternator to the passenger side means some fundamental changes in the wiring layout. Clutch is still a question mark as well....[/FONT][/COLOR]
Thanks for that - I had in my mind that the motor was in the vehicle.
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]Well, the engine is sitting on the engine mounts...still have to get the back end/crossmember mounted up, but its encouraging. We'll see how much of a PITA getting the back end in place will be.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/07/PXL_20211108_000521186.jpg[/IMG]
That's always a fun milestone to see.
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Well...its been sitting overnight and already have a puddle of oil from the D18 on the floor....arghhh!
[QUOTE=FINOCJ;345832]Well...its been sitting overnight and already have a puddle of oil from the D18 on the floor....arghhh![/QUOTE]
Isn't that how you know it's really a Jeep?
If there ain't no oil under it there ain't no oil in it.
[quote=FINOCJ;345832]its been sitting overnight and already have a puddle of oil from the D18 on the floor.[/quote]
I'm curious. (if/when you find the source) Is it from a conventional sealing surface or from one of the through bolts you commented upon?
Seems to be leaking around the pan gasket. I think it's mostly sorted...didn't want to pull it all out, so it was a sort of duct tape type fix, but at least its not dripping. Sure it will seep and weep, especially once it's running. other more concerning issues right now to stress about
Wow, that is nice. Enjoy the new rig!
[COLOR=#141414][FONT="][INDENT]The sbc350/sm465/D18 combo is in...cross-member mounting went pretty well. Starting to work on finalizing some of the accessories, lines hoses etc....
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/09/PXL_20211110_043215695.jpg[/IMG]
Figuring out belts...on the alternator belt, I don't know if I like this routing with the belt going around the crank and then up to the alternator and water pump....I could run the alt only from the wp (the wp would be driven by the ps belt)
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/09/PXL_20211110_043230561-1.jpg[/IMG]
And the behemoth 465 protruding up through the floorboard....the random GM truck shifter that came with it is functional enough for now. Its a bit close to the right leg but it will work for now - sometime later I can work on bending it more to the center. There is just enough room to get my foot to the gas pedal with the modified brake pedal....floorboard tunnel cover work is much further down the line, although I may have to expand the D18 shifter pin access/removal hole upwards. The D18 is in the same fore-aft and left-right position, but 1/2" higher than it was in stock configuration.
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/09/PXL_20211110_043301432.jpg[/IMG]
So, even though I did a bunch of test fitting, this is my first attempt at something like this, and finding some stuff I missed planning for etc. So current thoughts - I wish the entire drivetrain was pushed toward the passenger side just an inch or so from where it is now. Currently, the engine is shifted 1-1.5 inches towards the driver side - this gave a bit more clearance from the front passenger differential and driveshaft, but it also complicates things around the through the floor pedals and clutch fork. The mistake I am recognizing I made is I might have pushed things a bit too far driver side, as the huge sm465 is easy to get pushed too far into the driver floorboard affecting access to the pedals (which I figured out a bit ago), as well as the end of the clutch fork can interfere with the lower end of the brake pedal (this I am just recognizing and really, really thinking (hoping) its going to clear, but its going to be TIGHT!), and at some point, the exhaust will have to find a way through and under the area as well. If the engine were shifted an inch or to the right from where it currently sits (essentially putting it right down the middle), there would be a bit more room in and around and under the driver side floorboard, and I don't think the front driveshaft would be that big of an issue as the D18 would also get pushed to the right. The front diff to oil pan, as well as driveshaft to starter would be concerns, but I think it would be fine, and the extra little bit of space on the drive side would be helpful.
I smashed up the thumb on my dominant hand today, so we'll see what kind of tedious stuff I can work through tomorrow, but hoping to clean-up the area under the dash with various cable and wiring stuff. Clutch cable work as well.
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[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]There have been 2 expected things that I never really figured out ahead of time: the clutch activation/linkage and the battery location.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]I '[/FONT][/COLOR][I]think' [/I]I got the clutch sorted with a cable set-up similar to the late v6 cj5 long cables....I had to make a little angle bracket to anchor the pedal end of the sleeve:[I]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/11/PXL_20211111_201710873.jpg[/IMG]
[/I]The bracket mounts to the inside of the frame rail (on the cj5 its outside the frame rail), and I am using an OEM bracket that mounts to the D18, although it would originally been on a large case D18, so I had to use some spacers and 'finagle' it a little bit on the small case D18:[I]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/11/PXL_20211111_212341818.jpg[/IMG]
[/I]At the clutch fork end, I had to add a bit of threaded rod to lengthen it a few inches, and used cj5 style adjuster nut to connect into the fork...I also had previously drilled out the fork to fit the adjuster nut. The angle of this pic makes the cable look poorly aligned, but its really pretty decent as you an see in the previous picture.[I]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/11/PXL_20211111_212250712.jpg[/IMG]
[/I]So, still need to finalize this, paint the bracket, add jam nuts, add return springs....the pedal feels very smooth and easy, but I may still need to shorten a bit more. I'd like to have someone work the pedal while I can be under there watching, but everything looks like it will clear, but it is tight. Something about how the pedal feels is worrying me, but its hard to explain. I guess I'd like to feel a bit more definitive change in resistance when the T/O bearing pushes the diaphragm fingers.
More adventures in fabricating....[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]Made a battery tray (well just tacked into shape)....The space is pretty tight so I didn't trust I could fit any generic purchased tray so a custom job it is...I believe this the OEM location for the battery tray anyway as there is some extra support on the firewall which I was happy to use - although I had to push things a bit more towards the driver side to clear the v8, and am using a small size 24 battery. The upper driver side mount uses what I think is an original mount hole with additional bracing support behind it. Good backing fender washers should provide enough support for the other stuff. Will now have to find a new place to mount the brake reservoirs - probably on the inside of the fender behind the fenderwell where there is a bracing channel with nice vertical surface.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/12/PXL_20211112_212352607.jpg[/IMG]
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]Nothing too exciting today...but just trying to make some sort of progress everyday...just some painting of brackets and things, and installed the 4 new shocks:[/FONT][/COLOR]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/13/PXL_20211113_234727496.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/13/PXL_20211113_233446991.jpg[/IMG]
[COLOR=#141414][FONT=Tahoma]These are not quite as large a diameter as most of the standard 'off-road' aftermarket shocks like Rancho etc - These are more like 2" diameter instead of 2.5", and it gives nice clearance from the front axle. On the cj, the wider body aftermarket shocks won't fit on the front unless I flip then upside down or I think a lot of you move the shock mount. The steering stops also beat the heck out them as well - but on the wider track wagon, that shouldn't be an issue. The cheap Gabriel Ultra shocks I put on the front of the cj at some point (older but probably better RCs on the rear) worked fine for 5 years, but are pretty much toast at this point - possibly due more to the physical abuse to the the shock body from axle contact than anything else, but will probably upgrade to higher quality shock for the cj soon. But for the wagon, if these match the Gabriel, that will be fine (and cheaper). Although these are cheap Monroe shocks - they are made in the USA - says so on both the box and the shock body...[/FONT][/COLOR]
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/13/PXL_20211112_233647219.jpg[/IMG]
I use those on my offroad trailer, a pair designed for the rear of an early Ford minivan with a beam axle. They do a good job for me, I bet you'll end up liking them.
[COLOR=#141414][FONT="][INDENT]The inside of the front fenders were filthy, greasy, rusty and kind of ugly - they still have some of the original red/maroon color, but they also had some grey paint sprayed on the top of the fenders. Both fenders had a bit of rust pitting developing, and the passenger fender had an ugly mess of battery acid leakage and corrosion under where the battery had been relocated that ate away all the paint. Since I repainted the firewall, figured it was time to paint these to match before they go back on. There is a part of me that kind of didn't want to cover up the original red and to leave it as homage to its origins, as well as the sort of 'it may look a bit rough, but what really matters is how it runs' theme. The driver side would probably have been fine to leave as was, but the passenger side needed to be redone completely.
None of this is a quality paint job - just a good soapy hose and brush cleaning, a little sanding and scuffing and some rattle can, nothing more. The exterior paint isn't quality, and the underside and overlapping mounting surfaces aren't the best, but just cleaned up and will use as is - maybe one day it will get proper body work. This is just enough to make the engine compartment look reasonable (maybe). When I painted the firewall, I ended up with a paint that is too 'silvery' and light - I kind of wanted it to be just a bit darker grey, but once the firewall was done, then these need to match. Anything is better than what was there....
The fenders after a good soapy cleaning:
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/15/PXL_20211114_210835467.jpg[/IMG]
After painting....it was supposed to be a perfect warm day today with sun and no wind...but its cloudy and windy which isn't helping the painting, but at least its warm:
[IMG]https://www.beamingpix.com/images/2021/11/15/PXL_20211115_202648437.jpg[/IMG]
Its starting to come together - most of the engine wiring and plumbing is all done...with the engine a few inches further forward than the previous one, absolutely everything in terms of old hoses and wiring etc is all just a bit short....but replacing almost everything with new stuff anyway.
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