February 26th, 2010, 06:23 AM
Re: 1983 fj60, brake rotors replacement

Toyota Fj40 disc brake conversion:


March 5th, 2010, 06:56 AM
Toyota front end rebuilding and links:

Basic front end rebuild:

I thought that I would post some links to replacing Birfields, replacing CVs, a trail fix for Birfields and other links that would be useful information.

Basic front end rebuild:


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml)

This ius a very nice and comprehensive front end rebuild article that also lists part numbers.


CV rebuild/replacement (all IFS have these)


More on front ends:

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...n/fj40/14B.htm (http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14B.htm)

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...n/fj40/14B.htm (http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14B.htm)

March 5th, 2010, 06:56 AM
Tacoma SAS links:

Re: Tacoma SAS with Toyota axle
All Pro Off Road's Taco SAS:


Another using a Dana 44:


Waggy axle swap into Taco:


Taco SAS FAQs:

Front Range Off Road Fabrication Taco SAS kit:

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...ca16e9aac93217 (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=39&osCsid=30dd44332776186e04ca16e9aac93217)

2000 Taco SAS article:

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...ca16e9aac93217 (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=39&osCsid=30dd44332776186e04ca16e9aac93217)

Oil Pan Conversion:

You are also probably going to have to do the T 100 2WD oil pan and pick up tube conversion, much like you do on the 3.4L swap for clearance.

March 5th, 2010, 06:57 AM
Toyota dual transmission Build links:

Speedo cable lengthing (http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303294)
Marlin Speedo cable extension (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/tcase_ac.htm)
http://www.evolutionmachine.com/inde...opic=1641&st=0 (http://www.evolutionmachine.com/index.php?showtopic=1641&st=0)
http://www.yotatech.com/f88/1980-lwb-pickup-build-117955/ (http://www.yotatech.com/f88/1980-lwb-pickup-build-117955/)
http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-su...smissions.html (http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suvs-trucks/69192-dual-transmissions.html)
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/unbrea...bum?.dir=/fa6c (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/unbreakabletoyota/album?.dir=/fa6c)

March 5th, 2010, 06:57 AM
Toyota Cheap Tricks

Here is link to some Toyota 4x4 cheap tricks. Some of them are duplicated on other threads.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186208 (http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=186208)

March 5th, 2010, 06:58 AM
Toyota 4x4 Maintenance

Here are some links that show you how to do some basic maintenance on your Toyota. Many of these maintenance tips apply to all makes and models:

Here is 4x4wire's guide to maintenance and it is filled with all sorts of 'how tos':


Here is About.com link which also contains many other valuable links:

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/toyo...t_Yourself.htm (http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/toyotatechtips/DIY_Toyota_TruckSUV_4x4_Auto_Repairs_Modifications _Do_It_Yourself.htm)

4Crawler has a huge amount of information:


March 5th, 2010, 06:58 AM
Making that 22R/RE SCREAM

So you want to get some kick ass from that 4 banger? Here are some links:

http://www.geocities.com/~yoshi83/fr...Yoda/Yoda.html (http://www.geocities.com/%7Eyoshi83/friends/Yoda/Yoda.html)

http://www.geocities.com/~yoshi83/mods.html (http://www.geocities.com/%7Eyoshi83/mods.html)

http://www.well.com/~mosk/ (http://www.well.com/%7Emosk/)

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=1&vc=1 (http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=820891&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1)


And a whole bunch of mod links and power sites, almost all for Toyota 4 bangers


March 5th, 2010, 06:59 AM
FJ 40 Restoration link

This is a link to a 30+ page, very detailed build up/ restoration of an FJ40 with pictures. Since all of the Toyota parts are pretty similar, this article will work as a reference for a great many repairs.


March 5th, 2010, 06:59 AM
Toyota Off Road

This site has a bunch of very nice tech related articles, including how to wire a Chevy (read 'cheap') alternator so that it works on a Yota. Good site and is probably already posted in the Toyota information...


March 5th, 2010, 07:00 AM
Great FJ40 axle swap article

This link is geared towards Toyota FJ 40s, but is a great reference for anyone doing, or thinking of doing, any kind of axle swap:

http://www.4x4review.com/Features/Te...5/Default.aspx (http://www.4x4review.com/Features/Tech/FrontAxleConversionPage1/tabid/295/Default.aspx)

March 5th, 2010, 07:00 AM
Sweet link for Toyota Crawler build up

Stumbled on this one , too. Great link for anyone doing an SAS or just generally beefing a Yota for crawling.

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...n/fj40/14B.htm (http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14B.htm)

March 5th, 2010, 07:00 AM
Toyota IFS Front Skid How To

Here is a link for installation and /or modifying/making a front IFS skid plate:


March 5th, 2010, 07:01 AM
Toyota Spring Information links

Here is another link for alternative springs and combinations that that be used on the front of Toyotas. This guy has done a lot of trial and error research and his stuff is concise and well written. This link includes a huge amount of information on Toyota front ends, how they work, how to modify them, what works and what doesn't, etc. Worth checking out...

http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/frontaxle.htm (http://www.mindspring.com/%7Ejayk3/toyota/frontaxle.htm)

Here is a link that may provide some information as to cheap spring set ups for Yota 4Runners and pick ups using Wagoneer and Wrangler springs:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archi...p/t-54469.html (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-54469.html)

March 5th, 2010, 07:02 AM
Removable Door Links

Here is a thread with a guy using 5/16 bolts and spring pins for quick disconnect.
http://www.yotatech.com/f88/finally-...dwagon-118508/ (http://www.yotatech.com/f88/finally-jumped-doorless-bandwagon-118508/)

Removable doors with electric windows info

Slotting the bolt holes(I am going this route)
http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=7254 (http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=7254)

http://www.yotatech.com/f88/removeab...n-doors-846121 (http://www.yotatech.com/f88/removeable-1st-gen-doors-846121)

March 5th, 2010, 07:02 AM
Gear/tire/crawl ratio calculators

Came across these looking for calculators for Sean. All of them are good and should answer any questions you have about gearing, tire size, and crawl ratios.

Here are a couple of good links :





This is just for the ring and pinion, but it is good:


March 5th, 2010, 07:02 AM
Elliptical Springs

If you are interested in information about 1/2 or 3/4 elliptical springs versus doing coils for the back of your rig, here are some links that I was looking at:

http://geckocycles.com/images/Sammy/...%20QTE-001.pdf (http://geckocycles.com/images/Sammy/Spidertrax%20QTE-001.pdf)

http://medusa.ih8mud.com/cruiser/FJ4...n/Springs.html (http://medusa.ih8mud.com/cruiser/FJ45/Suspension/Springs.html)


March 5th, 2010, 07:03 AM
Re: 63" Chevy to Toyota Swap

Here are links to the many sites that I used researching the install of these springs on my rig:


http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...d.php?t=125711 (http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125711)

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...g-install.html (http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/46260-63-chevy-leaf-spring-install.html)

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...ht=truck+frame (http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=11515&highlight=truck+frame)

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/...read.php?t=972 (http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=972)

http://www.atarmor.com/chevyspringsw...springswap.htm (http://www.atarmor.com/chevyspringswap/chevyspringswap.htm)

http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/s...=chevy+springs (http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3090&highlight=chevy+springs)

http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-su...ar-axle-2.html (http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suv-s-trucks/227261-63-chevy-springs-1993-rear-axle-2.html)


March 5th, 2010, 07:04 AM
Power Steering Bleeding Instructions

These instructions come from the folks at PSC Motorsports and are easy to follow, comprehensive, and work very well.


Before doing any modifications to your vehicle you should always disconnect the battery.
Check to make sure that all of the fittings in power steering system are tight.
Raise all steering tires off the ground.
Fill reservoir with power steering fluid. Never use Automatic Transmission Fluid. Leave power steering reservoir cap off.
Cycle the steering from lock to lock 3 - 4 times.
Check and refill reservoir if needed.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 until a consistent level is reached.
Reconnect battery. Replace power steering reservoir cap.
Start vehicle and let it run with out any steering input for 30 seconds.
Turn off the engine.
Check and refill reservoir if needed. Replace power steering reservoir cap.
Start vehicle again and cycle steering from lock to lock 10- 15 times.
Turn off vehicle and let it stand for 10 minutes while air bubbles work out of the system.
Repeat steps 11-14 until there are no air bubbles visible in the reservoir.
With the vehicle running, observe the fluid level in the reservoir. While looking in the reservoir turn off the vehicle, the fluid level should not change.
If the level stays consistent, check for leaks. If no leaks appear you are ready to safely test drive the vehicle.

This is from me:

As you wheel, especially if you have over sized tires and are still running a stock power steering set up, your power steering fluid will heat up and acquire bubbles. Both of these will add up to to having your steering be increasingly harder to steer as the day goes on.

There are quite a few things that you can do to help with this, from adding a cooler to going hydro and high volume pumps. The simplest is the addition of an after market cooler. A standard off the shelf transmission cooler works just fine. What this does is to both cool the fluid and add more fluid capacity, both very desirable to have.

Increasing the size of the reservoir, whether it is a remote (easier) or mounted to the pump, is also a rather inexpensive thing to do. The best remotes are available through a specialty shop like PSC or Howe, but Summit Racing and Speedway Motorsports both sell very good alternatives.

As to fluid, be very careful about what you use for the actual PS fluid. You have a lot of little seals that can get damaged if you use the wrong PS fluid, so double check. Toyota, for instance, suggests that you use only ATF and not regular PS fluid of any kind. Many of the other manufacturers have their own specifications and it is wise to follow them. That said, racing power steering fluid is very similar to racing brake fluid-it has a much higher boiling point, thus staying dense for a longer time, providing better responsiveness. Synthetic fluid has many of the same qualities as the racing PS fluid and you can find this at many of the regular auto parts stores, unlike the racing fluid.

At any rate, if your steering gets hard to steer, you will need to bleed the system. This takes about 15 minutes and is easier by far than bleeding brakes.

March 5th, 2010, 07:04 AM

Here are all of the resources that I used to do the hydraulic assist in my 1994 Toyota. The only things that change are where the lines get drilled and tapped into the power steering box and that is dependent on the type of vehicle or the actual steering box used. The actual mounting of the ram assist cylinder is also vehicle dependent. Standard mounting puts the ram cylinder behind the tie rod and mounted to the top of your differential . On mine, for instance, since I had done a 3.4L engine swap, and used a reverse mounted T100 oil pan, I didn't have enough clearance to do this and had to fabricate brackets to let me mount it in front of the tie rod. Another option, which I could not find pictures of, but remember seeing, would be to mount it to the drag link. This would, to me, be the very last option as I felt that this would put too much strain on the actual sector shaft, but it would work.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...rSpringPerches (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleTech/index.shtml#RearSpringPerches)




http://www.4wheelers4christ.org/Tech...k/redneck.html (http://www.4wheelers4christ.org/Tech/Redneck/redneck.html)






http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/...amassist-1.htm (http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/ramassist/ramassist-1.htm)


http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...ydro/index.asp (http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/psc_hydro/index.asp)

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.co...rsteering.html (http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html)

http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/te.../photo_14.html (http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0904_4wd_2001_toyota_tacoma_prerunner/photo_14.html)

http://www.rockfrogs.org/phpBB2/view...r=asc&start=15 (http://www.rockfrogs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2027&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15)



Hope that these help anyone else thinking of doing this modification! As with doing any modifications that you are unfamiliar with, doing your 'homework' is critical.

March 5th, 2010, 07:04 AM
Toyota Gusset and Armor Links:

Here are some links:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...usses-c-8.html (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/axle-trusses-c-8.html)






March 5th, 2010, 07:05 AM
Cool Toy Gen-1 Turn Signal Mod

Too bad it isn't quite this easy for the 2nd gens.

Look at the last 1/4th of the page.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...7871#msg587871 (http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46211.msg587871#msg587871)

March 5th, 2010, 07:05 AM
Longfield axle comparison and snapping test result

Longfield axles are strong. They have just come out with Jeep axles in addition to their time proven Toyota axles. Here are some links to snap tests and comparison tests:


The Jeep axles:

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/p...ONT-AXLES.html (http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products/RUBICON-JEEP-FRONT-AXLES.html)

Link to Longfield axle snapping article:

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...ech/index.html (http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/axletech/154_0611_jeep_axle_tech/index.html)

Link to axle snapping comparison:


And another comparison snapping test:


March 5th, 2010, 07:06 AM
Alternator Rebuild /High Performance links

Molly:I had my Toyota 3.0 Alternator rebuilt by Boyles Future Tech in California. My output at Idle went from 60 amp to 110 amp (Which was great with the winch, PIA's and rock lights) The cost 3 years ago was about $120, it is probably more now but Many Toyota folks have used them and I am pretty sure they do other brands.

Boyle Future Tech
12325 Locksley lane
Auburn, CA. 95602

Recently I had a little alternator problem. I am going to be rebuilding the one on my heap and here are the sources that I used for reference:



http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._an_Alternator (http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Rebuild_an_Alternator)

http://www.streetperformance.com/m/c...build-kit.html (http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/206-electrical-computers-and-software/2563-alternator-rebuild-kit.html)


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...r-rebuild.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/25589-pics-tdi-alternator-rebuild.html)

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27270 (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27270)


http://www.ehow.com/video_4936007_re...r-brushes.html (http://www.ehow.com/video_4936007_replace-worn-alternator-brushes.html)



March 5th, 2010, 07:06 AM
Fiberglass Body Parts :Chevy, Ford, Yota, more

Here are sources for fiberglass hoods, fenders, bedsides, etc for a good range of makes, models and years. These are something to consider as many times you will find that the fiberglass replacement panels are only slightly more than the extended flares like Bushwacker makes. This is what prompted me to get the fiberglass hood, fenders and bedsides on my heap, but I got them from Hannemann Fiberglass. I will never deal with Hannemann Fiberglass again as they are complete asses, treated me like I was dirt, and it took 2 months for me to get them from Cali.

I do like the fiberglass though.

All makes 1:

http://www.woolworthmotorsports.com/...ry/7/13/11/22/ (http://www.woolworthmotorsports.com/content/blogcategory/7/13/11/22/)

All makes 2:


(A note on Glassworks: They may or may not be selling the Hannemann fiberglass panels. I know that they did for awhile, but it was the assholes at Hannemann I had a problem with, not with their product, which happens to be good.)

All makes 3:

http://www.mcneilracinginc.com/off-r...9-95/index.htm (http://www.mcneilracinginc.com/off-road-fiberglass/Toyota/Pickup/89-95/index.htm)

All makes 4:


All makes 5:


Toyota only:


March 5th, 2010, 07:07 AM
Toyota Power Steering Rebuild/Modify Links

Here are some links that apply to rebuilding and /or modifying your power steering on Toyotas:







How to replace Power Steering Fluid:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...-pictures.html (http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/206703-how-to-replace-power-steering-fluid-pictures.html)

Source for oversize PS reservoirs:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/)

Power Steering information site:

http://www.4wheeldrive.about.com/od/...D_Vehicles.htm (http://www.4wheeldrive.about.com/od/ttsteering/Power_Steering_Repairs_Auto_Steering_Components_Fo r_4WD_Vehicles.htm)

Toyota 3.0L Power Steering Pump Rebuild:


Toyota Power Steering Systems

March 5th, 2010, 07:08 AM
IAC and Throttle Body (Toyota)

http://www.yotatech.com/f123/re-3-4l...ac-pics-92286/ (http://www.yotatech.com/f123/re-3-4l-v6-hard-start-hot-cleaned-iac-pics-92286/)

Idle Air Control Valve and Throttle Body Cleaning Links

Here are links to sites that show you how to clean your throttle body and IAC valve. Yes, you will get better mileage..

http://www.yotatech.com/f123/re-3-4l...iac-pics-92286 (http://www.yotatech.com/f123/re-3-4l-v6-hard-start-hot-cleaned-iac-pics-92286)

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=30723 (http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30723)

http://www.examiner.com/examiner/x-4824-Tampa-Sports-Car-Examiner~y2009m4d17-Replace-clean-and-diagnose-idle-air-control-valve-IACV (http://www.examiner.com/examiner/x-4824-Tampa-Sports-Car-Examiner%7Ey2009m4d17-Replace-clean-and-diagnose-idle-air-control-valve-IACV)

Cleaning the IACV like this will save you roughly $500 at any dealership.

March 5th, 2010, 07:09 AM
Factory Service Manual Sources:

or 4or a $10, one day subscription you can download all the FSM’s for your rig.
Links to free FSM's (Factory Service Manuals)

Any Public Library in your area would have the Factory service manual, Haynes,Chiltons,Mitchells,Clymers, Bentley and Toyota repair books.

Free AutoZone service manuals at:

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...pair_guide.jsp (http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/repair_info/repair_guide/repair_guide.jsp)

Tons of free factory service manuals for 4-Runners,etc:


Free 1985 Toyota 4-Runner & pickup Factory Service Manual:

http://www.functionalfab.com/resourc...;204runner.pdf (http://www.functionalfab.com/resources/toyota%204runner.pdf)
http://s3.uploadline.com/d/4831811/1...85/1985fsm.zip (http://s3.uploadline.com/d/4831811/1168232885/1985fsm.zip)


you may also need to install this:


Free 1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm (http://personal.utulsa.edu/%7Enathan-buchanan/93fsm)
Free 1989 - 1995 Pickup Mitchell Service Manual:
You can download the winrar archiver from: http://www.rarlab.com/download.htm
And The ISO file can be downloaded from:
http://www.filecrunch.com/file/~ga05yg (http://www.filecrunch.com/file/%7Ega05yg) <--- Part 1
http://www.filecrunch.com/file/~tlgobs (http://www.filecrunch.com/file/%7Etlgobs) <--- Part deux
The two rar files are 90 Megabytes in size, but once unrared it is a 300 Megabyte ISO image.BTW: File will be removed automatically if there is no download for 30 days.

FSM (factory service manual) & owners manuals can be acquired in several ways:

Toyota Material Distribution Center
750 West Victoria St
Rancho Dominguez/Compton, CA 90220-5538
Ph:1-800-622-2033 (outside CA)(M-F: 7-5 PST)
Ph:1-800-443-7656 (inside CA)
Ph:1-310-818-4630 (in or outside CA)
Speak to Beverly or Deloris

March 5th, 2010, 07:10 AM
ARB Locker Installation Links:

ARB air locker installation:



RD90 Front IFS ARB Install:


And another:


March 5th, 2010, 07:10 AM
FJ40 Lift Instructions and links:

FJ40 Skyjacker Lift Kit Instructions:


FJ40 Emergency Brake Adjustment:


FJ40 HFS Leaf Spring Instructions:


FJ40/FJ60 MAF Lift Instructions:

htt://www.man-a-fre.com/technical_info/60seriesleafspringsuspension.htm (http://www.man-a-fre.com/technical_info/60seriesleafspringsuspension.htm)

March 5th, 2010, 07:11 AM
Toyota Rear Disc Brake Conversion Links:






http://www.employees.org/~dirttrak/rear-FF-disk-conversion.htm (http://www.employees.org/%7Edirttrak/rear-FF-disk-conversion.htm)


DIY E Brake/T Case set up:


RuffStuff Disc Brake conversion Brackets:


Pirate 4x4 Disc Brake Conversion FAQ:


Downloadable to scale disc brake bracket schematic:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/New%20Jun%202003/Toyota%20Land%20Cruiser%20disc%20brake%20bracket%2 0drawings.pdf

Replacing the Toyota Stock Load Sensing Proportioning Valve:


March 5th, 2010, 07:11 AM
Toyota (Non ARB) Locker Installation Links:

Rear Lock Rite:


Detroit Soft Locker:


March 5th, 2010, 07:12 AM
Toyota SAS Axles, Information and How To Links:

This is a pretty good start to finish rebuild the donor straight axle, cut off the IFS and install the new junk article:


Basic SAS Tech:






March 5th, 2010, 07:12 AM
Aisin Carb Facts and Resources Links:



Rebuilding an Aisin carb write up:


EXCELLENT write up by Ricardo on rebuilding the Aisen Carb:


Aisin carb tuning:


March 5th, 2010, 07:12 AM
Toyota Transfer Case Rebuild and Upgrade Links:



Tacoma Dual Transfer case conversion:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/129_0309_toyota_tacoma_dual_transfer_case_conversi on/index.html

Dual ‘ultimate’ case build and install:


March 5th, 2010, 07:13 AM
Timing Chain /Belt Replacement:





March 5th, 2010, 07:13 AM
Toyota Axle Replacement:

IFS CV Axle:


Solid axle:


Birfield Elminater:


Marfield Modification and Birfield packing (How not to destroy a Longfield):


Replacing Wheel Bearings:


Front axle – Knuckle Rebuild Kits

http://www.allprooffroad.com (http://www.allprooffroad.com/)
http://www.jtoutfitters.com (http://www.jtoutfitters.com/)
http://www.marlincrawler.com (http://www.marlincrawler.com/)
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/)

Rebuilding Aisin Manual Hubs:


March 5th, 2010, 07:14 AM
Toyota Brake Bleeding (Same for all makes):

"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)

March 5th, 2010, 07:15 AM
Toyota Clutch Bleeding:

Clutch Master by RocKrawler

Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a ***** of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didnt bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:

1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl reservoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the reservoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the reservoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.

If you followed the directions, you should have noticeable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.

March 5th, 2010, 07:15 AM
Toyota Transfer Case Skid Plate Designs:


March 5th, 2010, 07:15 AM
OBD Diagnostic Codes Information:

OBD 1:




March 5th, 2010, 07:16 AM
Toyota CV (Double Cardan) joint mod for increased angle:



FYI, Englewood Drive Shaft will do this for you if asked.

March 5th, 2010, 07:17 AM
Toyota Engine Conversion and Swaps Information:

3.0L to 3.4L:


ORS instructions:


ORS 3.4L Swap Tech Manual:

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Intro (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#Intro)
Transmissions (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#transmissions)
Wiring (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#wiring)
Oil pan (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#oil_pan)
Exhaust (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#exhaust)
Hood clearance (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#hood_clearance)
Donor parts (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#donor_parts)
Conversion Parts (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#conversion_parts)
Average Costs (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#average_costs)
Installation (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#installation)
Another word on this conversion (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#another_word)
3.4L FAQ’s (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/faq.html#34faq)

Here at Off Road Solutions we are proud to be a part of the 3.4L engine conversion craze. We offer conversion kits designed to allow the easy installation of a Toyota 3.4L engine into an older Toyota Truck or 4Runner. We also manufacture parts that can be used to put this engine into virtually anything. Our parts are derived from many knuckle busting years of performing this conversion. Here is some information that should be helpful when considering (and performing) this conversion.

Before reading too far, we want to be honest. No matter how you look at it, engine conversions can be expensive and time consuming. This conversion is great for those wanting something different, those who love their older Toyota, and those in search of "sweetness."

The 3.4L, 5VZ-FE was released mid-year 1995 into Tacoma trucks and T100 trucks. It is the successor to the 3.0L, 3VZ-E. The engine code means that it is the 5th engine in the "VZ" family. "F" represents dual overhead camshafts in each engine head. The intake camshaft is driven by the timing belt, which turns the exhaust camshaft by way of a "scissor" gear. Anybody who’s into Toyotas will know the "E" represents electronic fuel injection. This motor was also released into the 3rd generation 4Runners (1996-2002) and base model Tundras.

There are many advantages that lead people to use this power plant in place of other conventional choices. The 3.4L takes advantage of late model technology. It is lightweight yet powerful, producing 190HP at 4800 RPM and 220 lb-ft torque at 3600 RPM. It is equipped with a smooth Toyota multi-port fuel injection system using a distributor-less ignition system and OBDII diagnostics. Its dual overhead camshaft design makes it efficient on fuel and offers great opportunity for power upgrades. This motor LOVES forced induction modifications, such as the beloved TRD Supercharger system. This engine also fits very well into a Toyota truck or 4Runner. Because of its size and components, the conversion can look "factory" if performed properly. Don’t forget- one huge advantage is the "cool factor" of swapping in a late model Toyota motor!

Although the 5VZ-FE has been around for years, it has many versions varying by model and year. There are several things to be aware of when considering this swap and purchasing the ORS conversion kit.
Back To Top (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#top)

If your vehicle has a 3.0L engine your transmission and bell housing can be used behind the 3.4L. The R150 (manual) transmission is nearly identical to the unit placed behind a 5VZ-FE from the factory (also an R150). The only external difference between the older and newer R150 is the length of the input shaft, the depth of the bell housing, and the bolt pattern on the rear (4x4 models). The later (3.4L) version uses a longer input shaft and deeper bell housing. The newer version also uses a driver side output transfer case with a different bolt pattern. This makes it easier and more economical to use the older R150 from a 3.0L application. The use of a 3.4L pressure plate, disc, and pilot bearing allow this transmission to bolt into the truck without modification. These parts can be found in our Full Conversion Kit.

An R151 manual transmission found behind a 22R-TE (turbo) can also be used behind this engine. However, a bell housing from a 3.0L application will have to be used. This transmission is mated with a gear driven transfer case equipped with a beefy 23 spline input, the strongest transfer case found in a Toyota. It also has a lower first gear ratio. Sort of a big deal for some...

If you are using a manual transmission, the 3.4L engine will need to come from a manual transmission vehicle. In SELECT year models we have found a difference in crankshaft machining from the factory. In these instances an engine from an automatic transmission application will not accept a pilot bearing. Another reason to purchase a manual transmission "package" is the difference in electronics. The engine ECU and the engine wiring harness are completely different from manual to auto. Based off experience, we recommend purchasing all the used parts from one manual transmission vehicle. Once again, purchasing all used parts from the same donor vehicle has been proven to prevent grouchy mood swings.
Back To Top (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#top)

The wiring is possibly the most complicated part of this conversion. The 3.4L fuel injection system is entirely different from that of the older Toyotas. This means all the electronics that Toyota gave the 3.4L will have to be in place in your older Toyota in order to make this engine purr. Unfortunately, the electronic EFI components from your older Toyota 3VZ or 22R will be useless in this swap.

There are 3 primary parts of this fuel injection circuit. The first is the engine wiring harness. This is the harness that is primarily attached to the engine. This is sometimes called the injector harness. This harness connects to engine components like the fuel injectors, ignition coils, air flow meter, etc. and then carries the wires into the passenger compartment through the passenger side firewall.

The second main part is the Engine Control Unit, or ECU. This is also called the Engine Control Module, or ECM. Sometimes it is just called the computer. I guess we like to call it the ECU. This is the heart of the fuel injection system. This maze of solid state circuitry uses various input signals to control the engine electronics.

The third main part of the 3.4L electronic fuel injection circuit is the body harness. This is sometimes called the "dash" harness or the main harness. This harness is the largest harness in the vehicle and carries the majority of the entire vehicle’s circuits. About 40% of the fuel injection’s circuit is contained in this complicated harness.

The engine wiring harness and ECU are easy to install in another vehicle when performing this swap, but the real challenge comes about when it’s time to take care of that last 40%. That is when Off Road Solutions comes in. We offer a conversion harness that is designed to provide that last 40% of the 3.4L fuel injection circuit. This harness connects to the 3.4L ECU and engine wiring harness, then plugs directly into your older Toyota. In some cases it will even act as a stand-alone harness that completes the engine circuit. Either way, the original wiring in your older Toyota will not have to be torn apart or changed in order to accommodate this new engine. It’s really cool. The alternative is to re-wire your entire vehicle with a newer body wiring harness. The ORS conversion wiring harness will save you an enormous amount of time and heartache. Trust us, we’ve tried both.

The ORS conversion harness (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/engine_conversions.html#3.4l_swap_harnesses) is found in every conversion kit and is also sold separately. There are many discrepancies in factory wiring configurations between years and models. This makes it very important to match the ORS conversion harness to your conversion. This is another great reason to purchase all the donor parts from the same vehicle.
Back To Top (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#top)
Oil Pan

Most 3.4L engines are equipped with an oil pan that will not fit the suspension in an older Toyota. If your 3.4L came from a T100, you may be in luck. If your 3.4L came from a Tacoma, 4Runner, or Tundra, you will have to swap out your oil pan to fit this engine into your older Toyota. The oil sump on the above applications is in the front of the engine, right where the steering and differential like to hang out. An oil pan from a V6 equipped T100 will have to be used in this conversion. A 4WD T100 pan will work well with 4WD IFS trucks, and a 2WD T100 oil pan works well with live axle 4WDs and 2WDs. The oil pan accessories, such as the oil sump and dipstick parts, will also need to be replaced to accommodate this new oil pan. Coincidentally, the oil pans found on the 3.0L engines are the same pans from the V6 T100s. 4WD and 2WD applications work the same. However, if using a 3.0L oil pan, the oil sump and dip stick hardware need to come from a 3.4L T100 application. These parts can also be found in most Off Road Solutions 3.4L conversion kits.

Another concern is the oil dipstick placement. All Tacoma, 4Runner, and Tundra models have the dipstick placed in the front of the motor, in the oil pump housing. During the conversion, the dipstick will be moved toward the rear of the engine to accommodate the conversion oil pan. 1999 and earlier models have a machined hole with a removable plug where the dipstick will be installed. In 2000 and later models this hole no longer exists and will need to be drilled to perform the conversion. If curious when shopping for an engine, inspect the block directly underneath the driver side engine mount just above the oil pan for the plug (see illustration).

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/18/clip_image002.jpg (javascript:popImage('page_images/oilpanplug.jpg','Oil%20Pan%20Plug'))

Back To Top (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#top)

There are many ways that the exhaust system can be done in this conversion. It is popular to use the factory exhaust manifolds from the 3.4L engine. The OEM 3.4L exhaust uses a crossover pipe that ties the two manifolds together behind the engine, above the bell housing. This pipe, however, exits on the passenger side. It is more difficult to route the exhaust down the passenger side, due to brake and fuel lines, the transfer case, and the fuel tank. ORS offers a custom crossover pipe similar to the 3.4L OEM unit, but routes both banks to the driver side. This will allow a cleaner and easier exhaust system installation. This "dumps" the exhaust on the proper side of an older Toyota, and keeps the undercarriage free of any crossover exhaust pipes. When ordering an ORS crossover pipe (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/engine_conversions.html#3.4l_swap_parts), note the year of the donor engine. This will denote the type of exhaust manifolds on the engine (either can be used).

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/18/clip_image004.jpg (javascript:popImage('page_images/crossoverpipe.jpg','Crossover%20Pipe'))

If performance exhaust is desired, we recommend using the Downey header system with a custom built exhaust system. When using the Downey system, exhaust will need to be routed down both sides of the bell housing to a custom crossover pipe underneath the vehicle. Earlier Toyotas were designed to have the exhaust routed down the driver side of the vehicle. With this header setup care must be taken when routing the exhaust down the passenger side to be clear of fuel lines, brake lines, and the front drive shaft (and don’t forget the fuel tank too).

Once the headers or factory manifolds are in place, a custom exhaust will need to be built on your vehicle. If emission regulations are a concern, it is the customer’s responsibility to research the local regulations to ensure the modifications will be legal. If the donor vehicle had 2 catalytic converters, 2 converters need to be installed in order to satisfy the ECU’s emission controls. If the donor vehicle only had 1 converter, 1 good replacement will suffice. 2 oxygen sensors are needed. 1 will be placed before the catalytic converter(s), but after the crossover. The other will need to be placed after the catalytic converter(s). We strongly recommend using Toyota or OEM quality replacement oxygen sensors. The choice of muffler, materials, diameter, etc. will be up to the customer. We recommend using a 2.25" or 2.5" diameter, depending on your performance plans. Most local exhaust shops should also be able to build a mandrel or traditional system tailored to your needs.

We are often asked if the catalytic converters and oxygen sensors are needed. Our answer is yes. This fuel injection system is designed to have 2 oxygen sensors and 1 or 2 catalytic converters. The OBD2 diagnostic system can detect if an oxygen sensor or a catalytic converter is missing or faulty. If so, the ECU will operate on a different fuel map, causing a loss in performance in order to conserve fuel (and reduce emissions) until the condition is corrected. This engine will run better with these emission systems properly installed. Besides, we don’t need to stink up our outdoor playground any more than necessary, do we?
Back To Top (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#top)
Hood Clearance

Another concern we have found is that this engine is physically too tall to fit under the hood of your vehicle without modifications. The intake plenum is taller than that of the 3VZ-E, not allowing the assembly to fit between the suspension and the hood. We have found that a small amount of hood trimming or a 2" body lift will cure this problem. In most cases we have found that a small hood scoop will cover the hole cleanly. The necessary clearance hole is a little larger on the ’84-’88 body style. Body lift kits and hood scoops are available through Off Road Solutions.

Recommended Hood Scoop Installed
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/18/clip_image006.jpg (javascript:popImage('page_images/hoodscoop.jpg','Hood%20Scoop'))

Hood cut performed on ’84-’88 body style
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/18/clip_image008.jpg (javascript:popImage('page_images/cuthood.jpg','Cut%20Out%20Hood'))

Back To Top (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/34conversion_manual.html#top)
Donor Parts

When shopping for the parts in this conversion, there are a few groups of parts to consider.
The first is the engine itself and the OEM parts associated with it. These parts are not provided and are usually found in a salvage yard.
The second is the conversion parts. ORS offers different conversion kits, depending on the customer’s needs. Many of these parts cannot be found on the donor or recipient vehicle, but are necessary to perform the swap. Some of these parts are not necessary, but very helpful when doing a conversion.
The third group to consider is not necessary, well not for some... Performance stuff. Headers, supercharger, ORS crossover pipe, tuning kits... You get the idea. This would be a great time to add this stuff.

A few Goodies for a "faster" conversion.
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/18/clip_image010.jpg (javascript:popImage('page_images/apillar.jpg','Pillar%20Gauges'))
Downey Headers
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/18/clip_image012.jpg (javascript:popImage('page_images/downeyheaders.jpg','Downey%20Headers'))

This is a list of the OEM parts needed, including the engine. These parts are NOT included in our kit and will need to be provided by the customer from a 5VZ-FE equipped vehicle. New parts can be used, however, used parts are most common. The used parts market price of this list can vary greatly. We’ve seen this list sell from $1200-3000.
5VZ-FE longblock- new, remanufactured, or used
Both exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe (unless using a header system)
Intake manifold
Intake plenum with throttle body
All items on motor related to fuel injection such as injectors, fuel rail, vsv’s, sensors, throttle body, etc.
Alternator and brackets
Power steering pump and brackets
A/C compressor and brackets
Spark plugs
Spark plug wire set
Cylinder coil packs (3)
Engine (injector) wiring harness
ECU (computer)
Igniter assembly (flat, square shape, usually black, near intake box)
Intake system- tubing, air box, air filter. If upgrading to an aftermarket intake system, only the air flow meter mounting tube and hardware will be necessary.
Evaporative canister (optional)
Evaporative vapor pressure sensor
Evaporative vapor pressure VSV
Evaporative purge VSV
Air flow meter
Flywheel with mounting hardware
Oxygen sensors (2), post and pre-cat
OEM oxygen sensor exhaust ports (welded to pipe)
All the OEM hardware you can get your hands on...
The following parts will need to be re-used from your vehicle (or a 3.0L equipped vehicle), if in good condition. If these parts are not in good condition ORS can offer replacements.
Radiator- 3VZ-E application - yes, we use this one
3.0L Shroud
3.0L fan assembly
3.0L fan clutch assembly
Engine Mount Brackets
Misc. OEM hardware
Oil pressure sending unit (if equipped with oil pressure gauge)
2.4L to 2.7L;


Toyota Diesel FAQ and Guide:

http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/toyotadiesel/ (http://vpizza.org/%7Ejmeehan/toyotadiesel/)
Toyota FJ40 Turbo Diesel Swap:


More Toyota Diesel Swap links:


March 5th, 2010, 07:18 AM
Regearing Toyota axles:

LC with electric locker:


3rd member removal:


Toyota axle ID:


March 5th, 2010, 07:19 AM
Tire and Lift FAQ (applies to all rigs):


March 5th, 2010, 07:19 AM
Toyota websites:

Sources for Discount Toyota Parts
Bob Bridge Toyota (http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/index.html)
Penn Toyota (http://www.off-road.com/vendor/4x4/penntoyota.htm) - penntoyota@yahoo.com
Freeman Toyota (http://www.freemanmotors.com/) - 25% off to TLCA members. 800/225-3055.
Jay Marks Toyota (http://www.toyotaworld.com/) - 25% off to TLCA members. 800/327-2087. parts@toyotaworld.com.
Partznet (http://www.partznet.com/)
Romania Toyota (http://www.toyotaguys.com/) - Eugene, OR.
Stanger Toyota (http://www.stangertoyota.com/) - TLCA discount. 800/451-8384.
Sterling McCall Toyota (http://www.sterlingmotorsports.com/) - 800/392-3341. parts@sterlingmotorsports.com
ToyotaParts4U.com (http://www.toyotaparts4u.com/)
ToyotaDiscountParts.com (http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com/)
eToyotas.com (http://www.etoyotas.com/)
Texas Toyota (http://www.toyota-parts.com/)
USA Toyota Parts (https://www.usatoyotaparts.com/) - Toyota of Richardson, TX.
Sources for Body Parts, Tools and Hardware
Boneyards for Used Toyota Parts (http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejonmarkstewart/boneyard.htm)
Bushwacker Fender Flares (http://www.bushwacker.com/)
Toyota Parts Online (http://www.toyotaautobodypartstore.com/)
Car-Body-Parts-Online.com (http://www.car-body-parts-online.com/)
Auto-Body-Parts-Wholesale (http://www.auto-body-parts-wholesale.com/front.htm) - Seems to be same company as above.
Truck-Body-Parts-Online.com (http://www.truck-body-parts-online.com/front.htm) - This also seems to be the same company as the two above.
2Autobodyparts.com (http://www.2autobodyparts.com/) - This too seems to be related to the three above.
Toyota Parts Store (http://www.toyotapartstore.com/)
Car Parts Wholesale (http://www.carpartswholesale.com/)
Murphys Autobody Parts (http://www.murphysautobodyparts.com/), 888/900-1444.
Certi-Fit (http://www.certifit.com/), 888/619-0003 (NJ), 800/373-6990 (WA).
Way Off Road (http://www.wayoffroad.com/) - Fiberglass beds for 84-88 trucks.
B & G Fiberglass (http://www.bgfiberglassusa.com/) - Fiberglass beds for 84-88 trucks.
Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/) - Hardware and tools.
McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) - Hardware and tools.
MSC Industrial Supply Co. (http://mscdirect.com/) - Hardware and tools.
Newman Tools. Inc (http://www.newmantools.com/) - Tools.
MSC Industrial Supply (http://www.mscdirect.com/) - Tools and hardware.
Online Metals (http://www.onlinemetals.com/) - Steel, aluminum, brass, copper.
Performance Toyota: Motors and Motor Parts
D.O.A. Racing Engines (http://www.doaracingengines.com/) - Performance Toyota motors and motor parts (throttle bodies, intakes, cams, steel chain guides).
LC Engineering (http://www.lcengineering.com/) - Motors, parts, and accessories.
Engnbldr.com (http://www.engnbldr.com/) - RV Camshaft for 20r/22r/22re motors.
TCR Toyota High Performance (http://toyotaperformance.com/) - Motors and parts. file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/21/clip_image001.gif
Doug Thorley Headers (http://www.thorleyheaders.com/) - Tri-Y design for increased torque and horsepower at lower RPM's.
MSD Ignition Products (http://www.msdignition.com/)
Magnecor Plug Wires (http://www.magnecor.com/)
Jacob's Electronics (http://www.jacobselectronics.com/) - Plug wires, coils, and ignitions.
Toyota Racing Development (TRD) (http://www.trdusa.com/) - Camshafts, tee-shirts, hats, accessories.
Toyota Modifications Info Server (http://www.toyota-mods.org/)
Amsoil (http://www.amsoil.com/) - Air and oil filters, alternative to K&N. Also motor and tranny synthetic oils.
K&N Engineering (http://www.knfilters.com/) - Performance filters and induction.
Performance Toyota: Off-Road
4x4 Labs (http://www.4x4labs.com/) - Cross over steering.
Advanced Adapters (http://www.advanceadapters.com/) - 4:1 Trail Tamer transfer case gears. Also, motor swap adapters.
Advanced Off-Road Research (http://www.aor4x4.com/) - Orbit-Eye springs and other stuff.
All Pro Offroad (http://www.allprooffroad.com/) - Cross-over steering, t-case skid plates, solid axle conversions, springs, and other neat stuff.
Bud Built Frames and Accessories (http://www.budbuilt.com/) - Super transfer case crossmember.
Downey Off-Road (http://www.downeyoff-road.com/) - Finally!
Front Range Off-Road Fabrication (http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/)
Inchwormgear (http://www.inchwormgear.com/) - Dual transfer case alternative to Marlin. Electric locker axle modification.
Marlin Crawler (http://www.marlincrawler.com/) - Extra-low range 4.7:1 transfer case. Also duel transfer case setups, Marlink tie-rods, Marfield front axle joints, and other "way cool" stuff.
Northwest Metal Products (http://www.nwmp.com/) - Auxillary gas tanks. Love both of ours.
Northwest Off-road Specialties (http://www.northwestoffroad.com/) - Toyota performance parts and accessories. Shop at your own risk.
O.T.T. Industries (http://www.ottindustries.com/) - Cross-over steering parts.
Persson Offroad Systems (http://www.perssonoffroad.com/) - Stainless steel swaybar disconnects, WOW! Now out of business. DANG!
Rockstomper (http://www.rockstomper.com/) - Misc parts.
Performance Off-Road
ARB 4x4 Vehicle Accessories (http://www.arbusa.com/) - Bumpers, suspensions, IPF lights.
Can-Back Soft Tops (http://www.can-back.com/)
Con-ferr Products (http://www.conferr.com/) - Accessories.
Interstate Batteries (http://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/product_line/extreme_performance.htm) - Extreme Performance Battery, an option to OPTIMA.
Master-Pull Recovery Equipment (http://www.masterpull.com/) - Winch "cables" and other stuff. file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/21/clip_image001.gif
Oasis Off-Road (http://http/oasisoffroad.com/) - Really cool tire deflators, air tanks, welders.
OPTIMA Batteries (http://www.optimabatteries.com/) - Simply the best.
Premier Power Welder (http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/)
Ramsey Winches (http://www.ramsey.com/)
Warn Winches and Black Diamond Suspension (http://www.warn.com/)
Suspension Products (see also Performance Toyota: Off-Road)
Alcan Springs (http://www.alcanspring.com/) - Real flexy, custom springs.
ARB 4x4 Vehicle Accessories (http://www.arbusa.com/) - OME springs.
BDS Suspension (http://www.bds-suspension.com/) - Soft springs.
Black Diamond (Warn) Suspension (http://www.warn.com/)
Edelbrock (http://www.edelbrock.com/) - Performer IAS shocks.
Energy Suspension (http://www.energysuspension.com/) - Polyurethane suspension components.
Heckethorn Off Road & Rough Country Suspension (http://www.roughcountry.com/)
Rancho Shocks (http://www.gorancho.com/)
Revtec Industries (http://www.revtekindustries.com/) - Late model Toyota lift suspensions.
Suspension Restoration Parts Co. (http://www.suspension.com/) - Good source for poly bushings.
Skyjacker Suspension (http://www.skyjacker.com/)
Trailmaster Suspensions (http://www.trailmastersuspension.com/) - IFS only.
Drivetrain: Ring/Pinion, Lockers, Driveshafts
ARB 4x4 Vehicle Accessories (http://www.arb.com.au/) - Air Locker.
Tractech Inc. (http://www.tractech.com/tractech.htm) - Detroit Locker, TrueTrac limited slip.
Powertrax (http://www.powertrax.com/) - Lock Right locker.
CV Unlimited (http://www.cvunlimited.com/) - Newfields, driveshafts.
Longfields (http://www.toyotasuperaxles.com/) - Super, "unbreakable" birfields.
DriveTrain Direct (http://www.drivetraindirect.com/) - Gears and lockers.
National Drivetrain Inc. (http://www.natldrivetrain.com/) - Gears and lockers.
Randy's Ring & Pinion (http://www.ring-pinion.com/index.html) - Gears and lockers.
Reider Racing ENT., Inc. (http://www.reider-racing.com/) - Gears and lockers.
West Coast Differentials (http://www.differentials.com/) - Gears and lockers.
Mountain Driveline (http://www.mountaindriveline.com/) - Arizona. Custom driveshafts.
Arizona Drivelines (http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/) - Custom driveshafts.
High Angle Driveline (http://highangledriveline.com/) - Custom driveshafts.
Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts (http://www.4xshaft.com/) - Custom driveshafts.
Tires and Wheels
B.F. Goodrich Tires (http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/) - All-Terrain T/A, Mud-Terrain T/A, Baja T/A.
Bridgestone Tires (http://www.bridgestone-usa.com/) - Dueler A/T and Dueler M/T tires.
Goodyear Tires (http://www.goodyeartires.com/) - Wrangler MT/R and AT/S tires.
Interco Tire Company (http://www.intercotire.com/) - Super Swampers, Boggers, Thornbird Tires.
Micky Thompson Performance Tires and Wheels (http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/)
American Eagle Wheels (http://www.americaneaglewheel.com/)
American Racing Wheels (http://www.americanracing.com/)
Centerline Wheels (http://www.centerlinewheels.com/)
U.S. Wheel (http://www.uswheel.com/)
Weld Racing Wheels (http://www.weldracing.com/)
Discussion and Newsgroups
Many of the sites listed below offer groups for most makes of 4x4's. They all have a Toyota specific section, usually divided into SUV/Trucks and Land Cruiser groups.
IH8Mud (http://www.ih8mud.com/) - A little bit of everything Land Cruiser. Tech, BBS, etc.
Off-road.com Discussion Groups (http://www.off-road.com/) - Excellent upgrade and repair libraries, product reviews.
Tacoma Territory Pickup Home Page (http://www.tacomaterritory.com/) - This site has developed a rather strong following.
4Runner Discussion Group (http://forums.vmag.com/suv4runner0300)
Pirates of the Rubicon (http://www.pirate4x4.com/) - Nice discussion groups. Mostly geared for the serious rockcrawler.
The SR5 Network (http://www.sr5.net/)
Toyota 4x4 Pickup Discussion Group (http://www.t4x4pickup.com/) - Fairly active group.
4x4 Wire Discussion Groups (http://www.4x4wire.com/) - Good upgrade and repair libraries, product reviews. Some historic Off-road.com editors have moved here.
Organizations & Personal Sites
Toyota Links by Minnesota Toyx4's (http://www.toyotalinks.com/) - Almost 800 useful links.
Tennessee 4x4 (http://www.tennessee4x4.com/links.htm) - The master of 4x4 link pages.
New Mexico 4-Wheelers (http://www.nm4w.org/)
Corolla Performance (http://www.corollaperformance.com/) - Has nothing to do with Toyota trucks. But the site is good.
Toyota Celica Owners Page (http://www.celicas.org/)
Bob's Solara and Camry Page (http://www.pickleloaf.com/solara/links.htm)
CamryMan's Passing Lane (http://www.camryman.org/) - Camry Forum and links.
Toyota Mygokart Performance Directory (http://toyota.mygokart.com/)
Gunter Automotive Tech Page (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7177/tech.html) - Mostly Toyota car related, but still a great site.
Automotive Repair Information, Recall, and Technical Service Bulletins Site (http://www.alldata.com/consumer)
Oil Filter Study (http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html) - A must visit site.
Rockcrawler.com (http://www.rockcrawler.com/enter.htm)
Shade Tree Mechanic on TNN (http://www.shadetreemechanic.com/)
Trucks! on TNN (http://www.truckstv.com/)
HorsePower TV on TNN (http://www.horsepowertv.com/)
Toyota Australia (http://www.toyota.au.com/) - Look what they get! Dang!
Toyota South Africa (http://www.toyota.co.za/) - Why can't we get this stuff?
Jeff Mosk's 22R-TE Page (http://www.well.com/user/mosk) - A personal site.
Jay Kopycinski Toyota 4x4 Page (http://www.mindspring.com/%7Ejayk3/toyota) - A personal site.
Toyota Land Cruiser Products
Land Cruiser Owners OnLine (http://www.lcool.org/) - An international site for 80 series owners.
4x4 Labs (http://www.4x4labs.com/) - Steering arms and custom fabrication.
Aqualu Industries (http://www.aqualu.com/) - Aluminum Land Cruiser bodies.
BTB Products (http://www.btbprod.com/) - Land Cruiser off-road products.
Bulletproof Manufacturing (http://www.bulletproofmfg.com/) - Land Cruiser bumpers.
Canada Cruisers (http://www.canadacruisers.com/) - Land Cruiser reproduction panels.
CruiserParts.net (http://www.cruiserparts.net/) - Used Land Cruiser Parts.
Classic Cruisers (http://www.classiccruisers.com/) - Land Cruiser new and used parts, accessories.
Cool Cruisers of Texas (http://www.coolcruisers.com/) - Restoration and sales.
Extreme Bends (http://www.extremebends.com/) - Body parts and adapters.
FJ60.com (http://fj60.com/) - Dedicated to this Land Cruiser wagon.
JK Customs (http://www.jkcustoms.com/) - Custom built accessories.
JT Outfitters (http://www.jtoutfitters.com/) - Body, suspension, AC, restoration, mechanical.
Land Cruiser Advanced Handling (http://www.lcadvancedhandling.com/) - FJ40 Accessories, shackle reversal, conversions, suspension.
Man-A-Fre (http://www.man-a-fre.com/) - Accessories.
Marks Offroad (http://www.marksoffroad.net/) - New, used, and rebuilt 4X4 parts and accessories
Over the Hill 4x4 (http://www.overthehill4x4.com/) - Transfer case saver.
Restored FJ40.com (http://www.restoredfj40.com/)
Slee Off-Road (http://www.sleeoffroad.com/) - Accessories for 80-series Land Cruisers.
Slowspeed (http://www.slowspeed.com/) - FJ62 FJ60 Resource.
Specter Off-Road (http://www.sor.com/) - Parts and accessories.
TLC (http://www.tlc4x4.com/) - Sales, service, restoration.
TLC Concepts (http://www.tlcconcepts.com/)file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/21/clip_image001.gif
TPI Land Cruiser (http://www.tpilandcruiser.com/) - Parts and accessories.
TSM (http://www.tsmmfg.com/) - Rear disk brake conversions.
Up and Over Innovations (http://www.upnover.com/) - Restorations and conversions.
Warden's Auto Repair (http://www.wardensautorepair.com/) - Conversions and parts.
Toyota Land Cruiser Association
Toyota Land Cruiser Association (http://www.tlca.org/)
High Desert Cruisers (http://www.hdcruisers.org/) - New Mexico's TLCA chapter.
West Texas Land Cruiser Association (http://home.talkcity.com/SparkplugSt/wtlca) - El Paso, TX.
Yankee Toys (http://www.yankeetoys.org/) - A TLCA chapter from the NE.
Rising Sun 4x4 Club of Colorado (http://risingsun4x4club.org/) - Host of Cruise Moab.
Colorado Land Cruisers (http://www.coloradolandcruisers.org/) - Colorado Springs.
Arizona Land Cruiser Association (http://www.azlca.org/)
Cascade Cruisers (http://www.cascadecruisers.com/) - OR.
Gold Coast Cruisers (http://www.goldcoast.rockcrawler.com/) - Ventura, CA.
Gotham City Land Cruisers (http://www.gclcny.com/) - NY.
LA County TLCA (http://4wdlow.com/tcmain.htm) - Sunland, CA.
Lone Star Land Cruisers (http://www.lslc.org/) - Texas.
SoCal TLCA (http://so.cal.landcruisers.tripod.com/) - Torrance, CA.
Tornado Alley Cruisers (http://www.tornadoalleycruisers.com/) - Kansas City, MO.
Land Cruiser Legends of Wisconsin (http://lc-legends.black-knight.com/) - Appleton, WI.
Other Product Sites
Aquamist (http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/dc.html) - Water injection.
Bestop Inc (http://www.bestop.com/) - Soft tops for FJ40's.
Specialty Top C. (ex Kayline) (http://www.specialtytopco.com/) - Soft tops for FJ40's and 4Runners.
4x4 Trailers, LTD. (http://www.4x4trailers.com/) - Sport Utility Trailers
Sportz Truck Tent II (http://www.sportztrucktent.com/) - Tent for the truck bed.
ENEL Adventure Truck Tent (http://www.adventuretrucktent.com/) - Tent for the truck bed.
Lofty Shelters Over Camp (http://www.loftyshelters.com/) - Roof rack tent.
Tentrax Sport Utility Trailers (http://www.tentrax.com/) - Off-road tent trailer.
Backcountry USA Trailers (http://www.backcountrytrailers.com/) - Off-road trailer with optional tent.
Blitz (http://www.blitzusa.com/) - Fuel cans and other stuff.
Crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/) - Decent prices and selection on car audio.
FireStik (http://www.firestik.com/) - CB Antenna Company.
Herculiner (http://www.herculiner.com/herculiner) - Brush on bedliner.
Duplicolor (http://www.duplicolor.com/) - Paints and brush on bedliner.
Line-X (http://www.linexcorp.com/) - Spray on bedliner.
Lo-Tek (http://www.gaugepods.com/) - Custom Gauge Pods.
Rhino Linings (http://www.rhinolinings.com/) - Spray on bedliner.
Mechanix Wear (http://www.mechanix.com/) - Gloves.
Painless Performance Products (http://www.painlessperformance.com/) - Wiring products.
R&M Specialty Products (http://www.hotwatercampingshower.com/) - Unlimited hot water camping shower.
Decker's Hot Camp Showers (http://www.hotcampshowers.com/)
Rock Nob (http://www.rocknob.com/) - Solid rock shift knobs.
PIAA Professional Halogen Lamp Systems (http://www.piaa.com/)
LED-Tronics (http://www.ledtronics.com/) - LED lighting products.
LED-R-Us (http://www.led-r-us.com/) - LED lighting products.>
LED Lights (http://www.graphicartmotodesign.com/lights/led_e.htm) From Graphic Design Moto Design


The following are links to some of our favorite Toyota 4x4 sites on the 'Net. If you have one that you thinks other visitors would like to see, let us know by E-mail (editor@t4x4pickup.com) and we will check it out and add it to the list.
Jack Bercaw's Web Site (http://dune.globe-net.net/%7Ejbercaw/) - Jack has had some fun fixing up his rig. Check out his site to see what he has done.
Marshall's Toyota (http://pages.hotbot.com/photo/toytrekker/index.html) - Marshall "weadwacker" McKerchie's web page. More Toyota 4x4 things to look at.
Corey's Toy (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/1738) - Cory Maidment's Toy box is a fun ride. Check out his page to see what he is up to.
Killer Toy (http://www.eoni.com/%7Esjv) - Cody Voorhees is proud of his Toy. Check here to see what he has done to make it a 'Killer'.
Stout Equipment (http://www.stoutequipment.net/index.html) - Nathan Kofahl's Toyota is an example of a hardy truck.
Chris Geiger's Rig ( - There is a picture of Chris' truck on the Readers' Ride page. This link will show more of what he is up to with his truck.
The Off-road Sportsman Association (http://www.campoffroad.com/osa) - This site has information on the Off-Road Sportsman Association. They are based out of Atlanta, GA, and sponsor trail rides and off-road competitions. If you want to join like minded folks on the trails, this site has information on how to participate as well as events coverage.
Camp Off-Road (http://www.campoffroad.com/) - This site has details on their programs. It is similar to Camp Jeep, but is open to all off-road vehicles. More information on the program can be found at this link.
Steve Guiney's Home Page (http://webhome.idirect.com/%7Ehitoy/next_step.html) Some nice pictures of his truck.
Element Racing (http://members.aol.com/elmntracn) This is a link to an off-road club that is open to anyone but is mostly Toyota 4x4's.
Jay's Toyota Web Page (http://www.netzone.com/%7Ejayk/) - This is Jay Kopycinski's personal web page. Nice photos of his 4x4 along with great Toyota information.
The Official Minnesota Toyx4 Home Page (http://www.off-road.com/%7EMNTOYX4/) - More great Toyota 4x4 photos from Minnesota and the home of Minnesota's only Toyota only off-road association.
Chips 1997 Toyota Tacoma (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Lane/1897/tacoma.html) - Chip Linthicum displays his '97 Tacoma in action in and around the Arizona desert.
United 4Wheel Drive Association (http://www.ufwda.org/) - This site has a wealth of information on off-road clubs and organizations across the US and Canada. This is a good place to visit to find a local off-road club in your area.
Robert Bentley Publishers (http://www.rb.com/) - This link will take you to Robert Bentley Publishing. Here you can get information on and purchase a copy of Moses Ludell's book, "Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser Owner's Bible." A great resource for every Toyota Owner as reviewed in our August 1997, issue.
Off-road.com (http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/toyota.html) - another good source of Toyota 4x4 information.


BRODY’s Personal Favorites:







March 6th, 2010, 07:20 AM
Here is a very brief description of a very simple rotor change. Though these are Toyota rotors, the same principles apply to pretty much all FRONT wheel rotors on 4x4s. Rear rotors usually require the pressing on and off of the axle bearing in order to change the rotors. After the bearing is pressed off, again all the same principles apply.

The rotors are captured with the wheel lug nuts, These must be either hammered out or pressed out. Many rotors, such as the Toyota rotors, have additional bolts through the back side.

Remove the rotor and hub assembly from the vehicle. Hose the lug bolts and retaining bolts down with a rust buster such as PB Blaster. If you do not have a bearing press and use the BFH approach, locate some junk lug nuts and run these onto the lugs to protect the threads (this is the same thing you would do if you have broken and need to replace the broken lugs, BTW). Set the rotor on a couple of blocks of wood. Sharply hit the lug nuts, driving them out the back side. If you are lucky, these will now come out with one good swat of the hammer. Do not expect them to come out easily though as these are a very tight fit.

Once the retaining bolts are removed and the lug bolts are loose, use a pair of vice grips on the back side of the studs and remove the lug nuts from the other side. Your rotor is now ready to be replaced with a new or reconditioned rotor. Assembly of the new rotor is the reverse order. If you are using brand new lug bolts, expect to have to do some serious hammering. You will have to do some serious hammering of the old bolts too. The new ones just require more. A big drift punch is a real help as there isn't a lot of room and you have to hit these pretty square. Make sure they are solidly seated....in other words, hit them about 2-3 times more once they 'look good'.
http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/images/misc/paperclip.png Attached Images http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10276&stc=1&d=1267884999 http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10277&stc=1&d=1267884999 http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10278&stc=1&d=1267884999 http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10279&stc=1&d=1267884999 http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10280&stc=1&d=1267884999

March 6th, 2010, 07:21 AM

Almost all of your Toyota questions can be answered by going to the Pirate4x4.com TOYOTA FAQ. Please go here first as it is probably the most comprehensive source of Toyota information to be found anywhere on the internet.

Official Pirate Toyota FAQ:


October 23rd, 2010, 02:04 PM
Oil Capacity Charts:

Oil capacity for most Toyota Engine with and without draining the filter:


November 12th, 2010, 04:38 AM
Testing the ECM and Ignitor. Ignition and coil test information:


Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota

Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.

Symptom: No Start.

Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.

The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.

Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal

Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.

The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.





What sensors are involved?? do you have fuel pressure??

I have a 99 5vz and these use cam crank sensors for the timing not too familiar with 3vz


The igniter temporarily interrupts the primary current with the ignition signal (lGT signal) from the
ECM and generates sparks at the spark plug. Also, as a fail–safe measure, when ignition occurs an
ignition confirmation signal (lGF signal) is sent to the ECM.
" I know that on my truck that this can create alot of issues!! you probably need to look further in to your distributor or replace the igniter then if it still does not work then look at the distributor""I know not what you wanted to read!!" any one of the three coils mentioned here could cause this issue!! I believe that is why they went to cam and crank sensors at the cam and crank along with totally removing the distributor.

The NE coil detects the crankshaft position, and the G 1 and G2 coils detect the camshaft position.


ECM check

check resistance of spark wires and the rest of distributor.

this one is just fun to see

you should use this one along with the ECM check and a multimeter set to acV to check the pick up coils are sending a signal to the ECM!

November 12th, 2010, 04:43 AM

Toyota pinion seal replacement:


Bearing/seal replacement:


November 14th, 2010, 06:10 AM
FJ60 DIY information link:


BTW, this link is nowhere as good as the name implies, but there is some useful information to be had on this site. You just have to grind your way though it to find it. I stuck it on here more for the nice maintenance schedule information rather than anything else.

November 14th, 2010, 06:19 AM
FJ60 Master cylinder upgrade using Toyota parts:


Whereas this link describes replacing the FJ60 brake master cylinder with a larger bore Toyota V6 master, it is also applicable for all previous years of Toyotas with smaller master cylinders. This is a very good, easily accomplished, upgrade even for those not really mechanically inclined as all the parts are basic bolt ons and easily available. The biggest thing if you haven't done this before, is to 'bench bleed' the new master , making bleeding the brakes afterward relatively simple. If you are running bigger tires and have the small master cylinder, you will find that this upgrade makes a difference.

There are other links in this section explaining how you can adapt an even larger Chevy/GMC master cylinder to the Toyota, but this involves a little more than a simple 'bolt on'.

November 24th, 2010, 07:32 AM
From Haku:

New Toyota axle upgrade items:

Hey guys,

Both Trail Gear and Longfield have come out with a couple of cool new items to make axle knuckle maintenance a less frequent occurance.

First off from Longfield, are these neat "felt elminator" or "wiper seal" rings, which replace the 3 piece knuckle ball wiper seal that come in most knuckle rebuild kits.

They are made from UHMW, and do a much much better job of sealing the back side of the knuckle. They are a "lifetime use" item, or as they put it on the site, "the last wiper seal you will ever need". They work on both Mini-truck and Cruiser axles too.

Its not up on their website yet (found em on Pirate), but I imagine if you call or email they can hook you up. They are retailing for $35 plus shipping. The one thing that sucks is that Longfield doesn't offer anything like a Knuckle Rebuild kit that I know of, so you still have to purchase a kit that has the stock style felts included.

Next up, this time from Trail Gear, is the new "Trunion Bearing Eliminator Kit". One of the most common failures on the knuckles of Toyota axles (and probably others too) are the Trunnion bearings. Bigger tires, high stress stearing, hydro steering and all that seem to tear them up and its a common, and "trail stopping" failure. Essentially these replace the trunnion bearing with a two sided race, with grease delivery slots put into them. They have Zirk fittings attached for regular greasing, so it shouldn't effect the ease of turning, or such. Its essentially what a Kingpin style knuckle uses. Makes it bomber. Here is a pic, and a link. Kit comes with a full knuckle rebuild kit too, and retails for $199. The Knuckle rebuild kits are $75, so thats $125 for the rest of it. Not a bad price at all, considering that Trunion bearings themselves are probably $20 each or something. Pics and a link


Thought that Toyota guys would dig both of these items, as they look like they'll make a big difference.

Its worth looking at the comp grade trunnion/knuckle bearing upgrade from Marlin Crawler too.


or the not as good but half the price baby version


Alternately, no one has said a bad thing about the UHMW wiper seal. Just to give you an idea of how well these seal, Longfield said they filled an axle with water and held it on end, and didn't see a single drop come out, so it definitely does the job. Will certainly be getting a set of them when I rebuild my axle.


January 26th, 2011, 07:25 AM
1995 Toyota Tacoma Factory Service Manual Scans:


January 26th, 2011, 07:27 AM
Toyota Tacoma Steering Rack Bushing Replacement:

Toyota Tacoma

Vehicle Information: 1996 Toyota Tacoma
These are basic instructions on how to replace the stock steering rack mount bushings. Use this information AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Troubleshooting: I was experiencing some 'rubbing' or 'shuddering' sounds at tight turns. With stock tires and 1.5" of lift, I knew I wasn't rubbing on anything. One day I decided to lift up the front end of the vehicle and take a look. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary at first. I proceeded to grab a wheel and move it side to side. I noticed the entire steering rack was moving back and forth. I took a closer look and saw some wear marks (clean metal) on the outer edges of the passenger side rack bushing. At that time, I knew exactly what I had to do - replace the bushings that help support the rack in place. You can order Energy Suspension Rack & Pinion Bushing Set Part # 8-10101 from Suspension Restoration Parts Co. for $13.00 (click link for ordering information) -also available from other retailers.

* Place the vehicle on a level surface, put the parking brake on and make sure the vehicle is in gear.
* Jack up the front of the vehicle (both sides at the same time) using a hydraulic jack (or other lifting device) on the center of the cross member. If you look at your skid plate, you can see a rounded indentation where the jacking point is. Support the vehicle with jack stands on the frame at both sides. Make sure the front wheels are off the ground.



Remove the rear portion of the skid plate.


* Disconnect the sway bar at both sides.

Description: Below you will see a picture of the power steering rack. This picture will show you the mounting points AND the places where the bushings are to be replaced.

Drivers Side Mount

This mount is a LONG bolt (about 10 inches) that goes through the rack and through the cross member. You'll see the head of the bolt on the other side of the cross member. We used 1/2" ratchet with 22mm socket and a long pipe for leverage. These things are TIGHT. Start off by getting this bolt loose - DO NOT REMOVE YET!

NOTE: The oily looking liquid on the bolt is PB Blaster. We highly recommend this penetrating spray!

Central Mount

This mount is one single bolt that goes in through the top. This is the most difficult bolt to get out because of the clearance at the bolt head. Size is 19mm. Start off by getting this bolt loose - DO NOT REMOVE YET!

Passenger Side Mount

At the top is a stud welded to the cross member - you remove the nut. At the bottom is a bolt threaded into a nut that is welded on the cross member. The outer 'saddle' bracket (grommet) comes off completely. Size 19mm. Start off by getting this bolt loose - DO NOT REMOVE YET!

We used 2 straps wrapped loosely around the steering rack and up on the upper a-arms for safety purposes.
Removing Hardware:
After you've managed to get all the bolts lose - start removing all the mounting hardware. *SAVE EVERYTHING!
Muscles, Muscles Muscles......

After removing all the hardware, you have a steering rack that is almost dangling there and can be shifted in any direction (almost). The next few steps are the tricky parts......
Passenger Side Bushing
Remove the passenger side bracket and old bushing. Remember the orientation of the bracket for when you re-install.
Shifting Rack

At this time - You will begin to shift the rack in various directions. Be careful when shifting the rack - Watch to make sure you do not kink or harm any fluid lines or parts.

Central Mount Bushing

Have a friend help you with this - While you are underneath the rack/truck, have a friend move the wheels in and out (both sides). This will cause the entire rack to move. Keep moving the wheels and shifting the rack towards the back of the truck. Continue to shift the rack until this mount pops out of its position.

The old bushings have a metal sleeve in them. Place a socket (same diameter as the metal sleeve) up against the underside of the sleeve and strike the socket with a hammer. This will pound out the old bushing. The picture to the left - old bushing has already been removed. Clean the bushing surfaces before applying the new bushings.

Central Mount Bushing

Take notice to the old bushing - there is a metal washer on the inside next to the cross member. This metal washer and the metal sleeve in the bushing are all one piece. Using the same method as you used for the central bushing, pound this bushing out but towards the cross member. You may need to muscle/shift the steering rack in order to get the old bushing completely out.
Installation of Central Bushing

In the bushing kit - you'll see a pair of short round bushings and a metal sleeve that goes with them. This metal sleeve is not the right size to accommodate the stock hardware. You will need to drill (or mill) the center of the metal sleeve with a 9/16" drill bit or mill. You should be able to slide the stock bolt inside the metal sleeve easily.

After drilling the metal sleeve, install both halves of the bushing and pound or press the metal sleeve in. Make sure the metal sleeve is flush or slightly below the level of the new bushing.
Installation of the Drivers Side Bushing

Next, you'll find a pair of round bushings and another metal sleeve. This sleeve should be the right size to accommodate the LONG bolt. The kit also supplies a new washer.

Install both halves of the bushings in the rack. Pound or press the metal sleeve inside the bushing.
Installation of the Passenger Side Bushing
This bushing is self explanatory and the easiest to install.
Getting it all back together....
The first thing you want to do is shift the rack (like before) to get the central bushing mount back up and in its mounting point. Don't worry about getting the bolt holes lined up. All you need to do is get it up and inside that shelf slightly.
The Passenger side bracket can be put in place over the new bushing. Attach the nut and bolt but do not tighten too much.

Slide the LONG bolt through the cross member - place a washer (either old or new) in between the cross member and the rack - push the LONG bolt through the rack (and washer) entirely. If you're really lucky, you'll have enough bolt coming through to add the last washer and attach the nut by a few threads.

Begin tightening this nut.... This will help PULL the rack in place and help line up the holes on the central mount. As the nut is harder to tighten, alternate between the passenger side mount and drivers side mount tightening each bolt/nut tighter each time. YES - the drivers side bushing will squeeze out of its normal shape.

Keep checking to see if the central mount holes are lined up - and slide the bolt through it. When all hardware is attached, torque to Toyota required specifications:

Passenger Side Mount bolts 123 ft lbs
Central Mount 123 ft lbs
Drivers Side Mount 141 ft lbs
Clean Up...
Install your skid plate back on, lower the vehicle, and clean up all your tools. GREAT JOB!!

Here is the link:


January 26th, 2011, 07:34 AM
Toyota 3.4L (5VZ-FE) OBDII Codes:


January 26th, 2011, 07:54 AM
Toyota CV Axle Replacement

Although these link deal with various generations of 4Runners, FJCs, Tacomas, etc., basically all the same principles apply to all the makes and models with very slight differences.


CV Axle Trail Fix:


March 3rd, 2011, 08:46 AM

Since I recently have been asked about dovetailing beds, I decided i would post all of the links to the best write ups that I have found. since this information applies to all makes and models as the principles used are the same, I have also posted the same information in the Tech how To section. Here they are:







May 7th, 2011, 07:36 AM
Toyota Tundra Big Brake Swap:

Thinking that your older Yota doesn't stop as quickly as it should with big meats? Here are links to swapping in the much bigger 199mm or 231mm Tundra(or Sequoia) rotors and calipers. And yes, it is a relatively simple bolt on with only some minor dust shield modifications to do if you still have the dust shields.

Keep in mind that Tundras had two generations of brakes, the 199mm and 231mm, so pay attention to what year provided what brake size:

There are two calipers from the first-generation Tundra that will bolt up to the gen-three (1996-02) 4Runner. Both do a much better job hauling 3900 lbs. of 4Runner to a stop, including the original 199mm Tundra caliper. The 199 was deemed insufficient to suitably slow the early Tundras (prone to fade and warpage – sound familiar?). A service bulletin (back-door recall) was issued for Tundras made through 2002, and lots of 199mm calipers were swapped for a larger, beefier and heavier 231mm unit that was OEM on later 2002 Tundras (as part of the mid-model redesign). To Toyota’s credit, the new 231mm caliper and pad combo worked much better.

You can source these new from most auto stores or from junkyards. Rotors and calipers from an auto store, plus new pads will be in the neighborhood of $300. The same set up used from a junkyard will run under $100. The swap will increase your stopping power about 30-40%, not bad for a factory bolt on....




May 8th, 2011, 07:28 AM
FJ55/FJ60/FJ62 Grounding wire problems:

Do your gauges spike? The answer is discussed on this thread:


Do you intermittent fuel related problems? Here is the possible solution:

In the driver's side rear quarter panel is a group of wires. Water and mud get into here and cause corrosion, shorting out the ground to the fuel pump making fuel delivery intermittent. 90% of the time, a "fuel pump problem" can be traced back to a bad ground wire in this cluster. Access the wires, and clean or replace the wires/connectors as needed.

As an aside: The fuel pump is on the top of the tank, so replacing the fuel pump or accessing the wires that go to the top of the fuel pump, require you to drop the gas tank. As simple solution, of which I have a done a few of, including my heap, is to locate the fuel pump, make some measurements and cut an access panel that can be easily removed with some screws. This allows you to remove, replace, or repair your fuel pump without the attendant BS associated with draining and dropping the fuel tank.

All that is involved with this is to carefully locate the fuel pump on top of the tank, locate the structural members on the bed, and cut a panel out of the flooring, being very careful not to cut into the tank. A piece of thin metal or plywood forced into the gap between the top of the tank and body will do this. Having some sort of body lift makes this easier. Using a grinder with a cut off blade is way better than using a sazall.

Once you have the panel cut out, install some bars or bracing under the cut out panel that will allow you to reinstall the panel. Keep in mind that the top of the fuel tank/fuel pump mount is a round circle about the diameter of a one pound coffee can, so you have the make the panel big enough for this and wide enough to get your hands in to work. On the ones that I have done, I measured between the bracing, then using this dimension for the length, measured roughly 10" for the width. Oh...you might want to dress up the cut edges you you don't end up leaking all over the place when you work on this....

October 17th, 2011, 07:34 AM
Replacing Ball Joints on Tacomas and 4Runners:


November 29th, 2011, 07:28 AM
Toyota Front Straight Axle Trunion Cross Over Bearings Numbers/Toyota Front Axle Part Numbers. Almost all of this information is located in the link to Pirate4x4 Toyota FAQ:

Trunion/Kingpin/Knuckle bearing part numbers, 79-85 front axle:
Toyota #90366-17001-77
KOYO 30303D
SKF part# 30303j2

Birfield outer snap ring - 90520-28036
Birfield inner snap ring - 90520-27091
Outer axle snap ring - 90520-31001
54mm nut - 43521-60011
front axle thrust washer - 90214-42030
front axle lock washer - 90215-42025
front wheel bearing seal - 90313-93011
front wheel bearings/races :
- - Timken / Federal Mogul / BCA
Front wheel outer - LM102949 & LM102910
Front wheel inner - JLM104948 & JLM104910
Knuckle bearing/race set - SKF 30303J2
front inner (axle) seal – Timken/BCA/FM – 710070, CR – 12810, Toyota – 90311-33085
front outer (hub) seal - Timken 226285
brass spindle bushings - 90999-70067
Complete knuckle wiper kit including: outer retainers , felt, rubber and Cadium plated scraper seal.
Toyota - 43204-60020, $28.83 as of 03 May 04 for one side of a knuckle for a solid axle.

November 29th, 2011, 08:15 AM

Here are some links that apply to rebuilding and /or modifying your power steering on Toyotas:







How to replace Power Steering Fluid:


Source for oversize PS reservoirs:


Power Steering information site:


Toyota 3.0L Power Steering Pump Rebuild:


Toyota Power Steering Systems


Last edited by Brody; April 10th, 2008 at 07:57 AM.

April 23rd, 2012, 06:31 AM
Bigger fuel tanks for Toyotas:

Here is an 18 gallon F 150 swap link:


NOS Blazer 26 gallon diesel tank swap:


Very detailed write up on a NWMP tank install with wiring and pump relay info:


April 27th, 2012, 07:35 AM

Electric Line Lock Install Details & Pics Please (http://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/451171-electric-line-lock-install-details-pics-please.html)

1988 4runner wilwood proportioning valve install - YotaTech Forums (http://www.yotatech.com/f116/1988-4runner-wilwood-proportioning-valve-install-229608/)

By popular demand: proportioning valve install without brake line flaring (http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/82821-popular-demand-proportioning-valve-install-without-brake-line-flaring.html)

Project Tacoma Removing Toyota LSPV Load Sensing Proportioning Valve : Off-Road.com (http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/project589.html)

4x4Wire's TrailTalk Forums: Nightmare brakes! (http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=974459&page=0&fpart=all&vc=1)

Stock LSPV Removal (http://4x4spot.com/proportioning.htm)

4x4Wire's TrailTalk Forums: Nightmare brakes! (http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=974459&page=0&fpart=all&vc=1)

Wilwood rear brake proportioning valve and 1" bore master cylinder install - YotaTech Forums (http://www.yotatech.com/f115/wilwood-rear-brake-proportioning-valve-1-bore-master-cylinder-install-187132/)

eliminate load sensing proportioning valve? - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums (http://www.yotatech.com/f116/eliminate-load-sensing-proportioning-valve-181341/index2.html)

TTORA Forum - View Single Post - NorCalPR's leaf sprung SAS w/flipped Toy front (http://ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2251306&postcount=669)

Please note: The last link describes some cutting and welding to get two right angle 10mm brake fitting. You can bypass a bit of this by scrounging up the frame fitting from an older FJ60/62. It is located on the exact same spot on the frame rail(passenger side) accepts the standard 10mm Yota brake fittings, and has two 90 degree fitting pre welded from the factory.

You can also weld shut or source a 10mm block off plug for the front "T" fitting rather than use a 90 degree fitting. Either works.

You can remove or leave in place the brake return line from the LSPV.

Words of caution: Do not try this is you aren't familiar with a flaring tool, dealing with reluctant brake fittings, or do not have a line wrench and patience. Chances are good (contrary to what some of the links suggest) that you will end up stripping out a brake fitting, or find one that is already stripped. Acquire some extra 3/16' or metric brake line before you start, whether from a parts store or the junkyard. Get some extra fittings and/or some short lengths of pre made line with the fittings already on it. Keep in mind that almost all of the metric brake fittings that you will use are the ones with the long "nose" and not the little stubby ones.

Grab a cheapo one man brake bleeder tools and some vacuum caps that will cap the ends of the brake lines. Grab extra brake cleaner. By the time you are finished with installing either the line lock or replacing the LSPV, you will, more than likely, have all new brake fluid in your lines.

Out of all the links, here are the pictures that are the best help in my opinion:

May 7th, 2012, 05:47 AM
Toyota Brake Caliper Rebuild:

Deciding to not spend the big bucks to replace some aging brake calipers or replace them with rebuilt units? The rebuild kits are $10 at most auto stores and this link shows you how to do it, saving you some big $$. It shows front and rear caliper rebuilds and is rated a 1-2 banana job. In other words, simple hand tools and common mechanical sense will allow you to do it.:

Brake Caliper Rebuild (http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/175627-brake-caliper-rebuild.html)

Here is a basic brake caliper rebuild video:


May 7th, 2012, 06:34 AM
Toyota Brake Bleeding.

although this is a Jeep article, the same principles and order apply:


May 10th, 2012, 05:35 AM

Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page (http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/)

Thanks to TTORA.com!

May be a duplicate post....

May 10th, 2012, 05:56 AM

I have a 1994 CD player in my heap that the face plate finally gave up the ghost on. Since I am R&Ring a 2009 Tacoma that had a cracked 6 disc player, which I replaced, I decided I would install the cracked unit into my heap to replace the one that no longer worked. Here are the links I found that will help me sort out the wiring and installation.

Toyota wiring diagrams for CD players/changers:

2008 Toyota Tacoma Car Radio Wiring Instructions (http://www.modifiedlife.com/2008-toyota-tacoma-car-radio-wiring-instruction)


Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page (http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/)


Factory Installed Toyata 6 disk CD Changer - Toyota RAV4 Forums : RAV4World.com (http://www.rav4world.com/forums/84-4-1-accessories/74382-factory-installed-toyata-6-disk-cd-changer.html)

Pinout for Toyota CD Changers (http://www.mp3car.com/car-audio/78577-pinout-for-toyota-cd-changers.html)


How to install a head unit in a 2005-2010 Toyota Tacoma (http://tacoma-upgrade.com/2009/06/install-a-head-unit-in-a-2005-2006-2007-2008-and-2009-tacoma.html)

May 16th, 2012, 07:01 AM


Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Eaton M90 Supercharger Oil Change Picture Illustrated Guide (http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GTP-Supercharger-Oil-Change/index.html)

I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd - Page 5 - Toyota 4Runner Forum (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/68346-i-found-one-2001-sport-ed-trd-scd-5.html#post640144)


Eaton snout rebuild (http://www.rollingperformance.com/snoutrebuild.htm)

Rolling Performance (http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm)

Replacing front nose seal/bearings on Gen 2 TRD supercharger 3.4L - TTORA Forum (http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186613)

3.4L Super Charger contact information

I just purchased a TRD supercharger for my 2.7.

I needed to get the rotors recoated and the unit rebuilt.

While I've already come to a conclusion with LC Engineering and Magnuson to have my unit remanufactured, I did have a weird experience with PSE Superchargers.

Ed Martinez, the owner of PSE, was very... interesting. He told me that my supercharger rotors were actually coated in what's similar to spray paint, not a teflon coat. He then said that I would hardly lose any boost without said coating. He had me going for a bit... then he told me to contact Steve Millen of Stillen Performance.

A good 20 minutes speaking with Stillen... wow. They not only disagreed with everything said by PSE, but then actually mentioned that they'd never even heard of them. I was a little shocked... but it was sort of expected.

Anyway, long story short, I contacted LC Engineering, who know manufactures my supercharger model, who said that Magnuson will do my rebuild for the low price of $300, including all new bearings, seals, etc. They also offer a 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty on their reman's.

normally, the do not do recoating and require that they replace the actual rotors ($700!). Thanks to LCE, they have gone up to bat for me and Magnuson will have my existing rotors recoated.

Talk about win... PSE kind of scares me, though, Ed told me that everyone I've asked about these units was dumb, though I've spoken to even the manufacturer of the units. It makes me really wary of how a company can have such a reputation... must be for Domestic blowers.

I'm finding myself in the shoes of a black TRD rebuild as well. FYI the sc is a M62 unit. I have contacted several places including Magnuson, PSE, Embree Specialty Machine, Stiegemeir, John Bond Performance and only 3 have responded so far.
Magnuson quoted me $1000 bucks for a rebuild and say they replace the rotors and not repair them.

PSE did not appease me at all. They are as of today 4/10/2012 3 weeks out. It would take more than a month for me to get my sc back and would cost too much. But good news! for an extra $100 a week that they are out they will bump your sc in line to get fixed. So an extra 300 for it to get fixed in the same week they get it. No thanks

Embree Specialty Machine quoted me 500 and some change for a full rebuild. But as I have a new nose cone kit with couple they'd knock down the price and for an extra 100 would recoat the rotors for me. I was also amazed at how much they know about our TRD units and told me it would take about 17 days for a full there and back trip. I feel most confident in them and will most likely send my sc there.

Stiegmeir and John Bond Performace have not responded to emails and messages

Not sure if you have seen this yet, but I found some pics of a gen2 nose getting rebuilt. Looks pretty simple.

If I can find the correct bearings and part numbers I will probably do my gen1 later this summer.

Replacing front nose seal/bearings on Gen 2 TRD supercharger 3.4L - TTORA Forum (http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186613)

Hey all, just wanted to post an FYI for anybody going through the same hell that I endured for the last two months:

After replacing my 3.4L supercharger (with 200k miles on it) with a new 2nd-gen model and URD 7th injector kit with 2.2" pulley, the truck was running like crap.

Basically, the truck's acceleration was hesitant and rough. It would do fine until the supercharger started really kicking in (around 2600 to 3000 rpm), then would cut out and barely rev. But the biggest problem was a lean backfire that occurred when downshifting.

While cruising along at ~40 mph, if I stepped on it, and the tranny downshifted, it would cough and sputter and backfire. I THREW 3 ALTERNATOR BELTS THIS WAY!!! I ended up spending a small fortune troubleshooting the problem with a local tuning shop (btw, Gadget at URD did his best, too).

Long story short (actually, a VERY long story), I chased down the part number for the IAC (Idle Air Control) check valve -- that wasn't provided with my s/c kit -- and installed it out of sheer desperation.

$5.99 (plus tax) and 3 minutes later, the problem was cured. AMAZING. Truck runs like a champ. I wish I would've known about it when I first installed the kit!!!

For anyone encountering this issue with a 3.4L TRD supercharger, here's the new Toyota part number for a 1-way IAC check valve (since the TRD part number won't work anymore and the idiots at dealerships won't help you find it):


Install it. The directions say you don't need to for certain models, but install it anyway (when installed correctly, valve should block air from entering the throttle body).

Anyway, I really hope this helps someone down the line!!!

Thanks TJLong, I was just making sure, because ^^^^^^ threw me off. I thought the question was "Who has run a s/c w/o fuel mods?"

I'd love to contribute something useful, but my truck came with the S/C and the TRD 7th when I bought it, all installed by Toyota for the orig. owner on day 1 when they took delivery of the vehicle. I picked up the URD 7th upgrade kit that basically converts the TRD 7th into the URD 7th kit, along with the 2.2 pulley to wring out a little more power.

If it helps at all, the elevation where I'm at is 5500 to 5800 feet, and I haven't experienced one instance of ping since I bought the truck running with the 7th. I'll create another thread with some install info and pics once I get around to putting in the URD 7th upgrade kit.

Edit >>>>>

Also, Nacho, don't mean to bust your chops man I just wanted to remind you that it wasn't your thread in the first place and just keep your cool man, you'll get help.

Here's a link for the complete installation instructions for the TRD supercharger, I would think that if you worked through these in reverse from finish to start, it'd give you a pretty good idea of the reversal process....

Link >>> 404 Not Found (http://www.customtacos.com/tech/file...percharger.pdf)

OR >>> 404 Not Found (http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamo...4LSCInstal.pdf)

And the install manual for the TRD 7th, if you're curious >>> http://www.customtacos.com/tech/files/7th_injector.pdf

And here's some good links that you should probably spend some time reading since the S/C is already on your truck and you obviously have alot of questions:

Speedy's S/C thread... tons of info from one of the pioneers of running the TRD S/C... from start to finish, all the questions and answers....

!!Speedy's Supercharger Thread!! - YotaTech Forums

Info on the transmission upgrade from IPT

Toyota A340 Series Modified Valve Body

Valve Body Upgrade for Supercharger? - YotaTech Forums

Another good thread w/general info:

New V6 SR5 w/dealer installed supercharger Questions - YotaTech Forums

Ultimate Yota S/C wiki:


Gadget's page... this guy is also the owner of URD, call him, he'll talk to you all about the S/C and he knows his stuff, find the contact info on URD's website...

Gadget's 4Runner

Links to writeups on nose cone oil changes, nose drive servicing, and several other important maint. items....

CustomTacos.com Tech Knowledgebase - 1995.5-2004

And finally a good source for oil change, and nose cone rebuild parts...

Rolling Performance Home

That should keep you busy for awhile and answer alot of your questions. Hope this helps you out... take your time with it, there's alot to know. And if I were you I would not sell it. You'll be taking a major loss and with a little time, money, and effort you can get it running right and have a 4runner that's much more fun to drive.

And last but not least, I changed the oil in the supercharger's nose cone. A WORD OF CAUTION TO ANYONE WHO BUYS A 4-RUNNER WITH A SUPERCHARGER ALREADY INSTALLED: CHECK THE OIL IN THE NOSE CONE ASAP!!!!!

I had an inkling that mine needed attention because when I asked the prior owner about it he said he'd never changed it, never topped it off... basically never paid any attention to it. I did some searching and found a few useful threads:

supercharger oil change - my experience - YotaTech Forums (http://www.yotatech.com/f2/superchar...rience-155032/)

Paul's Travel Pictures - Digital Pictures, Information & Reviews From My Trips & Adventures (http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/G...Change-06.html)

and a good source for nose cone rebuild parts >>>> Rolling Performance Home (http://www.rollingperformance.com/)

I went to Walgreens and bought one of these:

Then to O'rielly's Auto Parts and found some of this:

Got it setup like this:

Went in through this hole (the one with the little orange dot on it... that's a 3/16" hex key to open that plug by the way)

And sucked out this much oil... That's a 4 oz. rubbermaid container which is 118 ml, which is the same amount of oil that comes in a bottle of GM supercharger oil. As you can see, my supercharger only had about 60 ml of oil in it (also assume there was prob. up to 20 ml that I couldn't suck out with the syringe). Not good. So #1, it was low, and #2, that oil has to be going somewhere. I put a flashlight under the container to examine the fluid for any metal shavings or suspended particles and there were none, which leads me to beleive the gears, coupler, and bearing are still in good shape. I'll have to keep an eye on it in the future and see if the nose cone is leaking. Also note that fresh supercharger oil is clear, and the fluid I pulled out was dark and I would assume burnt. This oil change was long overdue.

I used the outer (clear) part of the syringe and the same peice of clear tubing as a small funnel to pour back into the supercharger a full bottle of this ($11/bottle at the local GM dealership):

The S/C took the whole bottle of fresh GM oil before it started to leak out of the fill hole (from the research I've done you're supposed to fill it the same way you would a differential, until it begins to leak out of the fill hole). I closed it up, wiped it off, and now I feel alot better about my supercharger being a happy supercharger.

May 31st, 2012, 06:05 AM
GM CS 144 alternator onto a Toyota 3.4L:

HO alternator/Dual Battery/Battery Separator/"Big 3 Upgrade - Tacoma World Forums (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/143544-ho-alternator-dual-battery-battery-separator-big-3-upgrade.html)

Wiring Diagram for the SC-144 into Toyota harness is found on this site:

No Front Plastic/Valence...What Ya Think? - Toyota 4Runner Forum (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/114911-no-front-plastic-valence-what-ya-think.html)

And more wiring information here:

A few pics of the GM CS130 alternator install - Pirate4x4.Com (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207958)

A bit more here:

Hi-amp alternator for 3.0 V-6 - Pirate4x4.Com (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458156)

Note (PB): Keep in mind that this alternator is standard issue for a huge number of GM vehicles, including Caddies, pickups and Burbs with the V8s. The pigtails you can junkyard range from a single wire to a 3 wire and cost almost nothing. Get the one with the most wires and simple use what you actually need. Also keep in mind that the GM alternator is case grounded (IE: there is a separate ground wire run from the GM case mounting bolt to the engine block) and it probably would not be a bad idea to do the same for the Yota install. It sure won't hurt anything.

This is a high power alternator upgrade for your Toyota 3.4L. The base model is a 120 amp, almost doubles the stock Yota one, and you can get up to a 250 amp version. It is, aside from some wiring, almost a bolt in as the mounting bolt locations are almost identical.

This is the older alternator that the CS 130/140, etc, supercedes going into an older 22RE Toyota rig. The wiring is very similar, only the actual connector plug and pulley is different:

http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/memberstuff/al/85%20Toyota%204Runner%20alternator%20Upgrade%20Pro ject.pdf

And a couple more. NOTE: These describe the alternator going onto different Yota engines, so look at what it is going into:

Installing a GM CS144 alternator on a 2/3RZ - CustomTacos.com Forum (http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112540)

Delco CS-144 Alternator Installed - Pics (http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/144065-delco-cs-144-alternator-installed-pics.html)

Land Cruiser Dual Alternator parts/source:

High Output Dual Alternator Bracket Kit for Uparmored Armored Vehicle Power Toyota Prado (http://www.americanpowerinc.com/Toyota%20LC%20Prado%20Diesel%2014%2028%20volt%20du al%20high%20power%20alternator.htm)

Should you need to purchase the pigtail adapter from somewhere other than a junkyard, Advanced Auto has the BWD PT200 adapters usually in stock:

May 31st, 2012, 06:48 AM

Replacing front nose seal/bearings on Gen 2 TRD supercharger 3.4L - TTORA Forum (http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186613)

Rolling Performance (http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm)


I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd - Toyota 4Runner Forum (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/68346-i-found-one-2001-sport-ed-trd-scd.html)

Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Eaton M90 Supercharger Oil Change Picture Illustrated Guide (http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GTP-Supercharger-Oil-Change/index.html)

June 11th, 2012, 07:09 AM
Toyota Sagging Rear End Fix:

I first heard about this from Jeff(Patrolman). Simple, cheap and functional junkyard parts fix to fix the butt sagging that older Toyotas seem to acquire after time. The stock Jeep TJ coils simply go over the existing rear Yota bumpstops and both eliminate the sag and increase the load carrying capabilities. I don't know quite what the guy was doing in the picture as he has a couple of set ups going on, but the concept is the same. The photo with just the red spring is more like it...One of those simple and cheap junk yard fixes. Another version of the same concept, also for a Toyota with the same sagging rear end issue, is to use a center coil:

June 11th, 2012, 03:59 PM
ABS, TRAC, VSC and Check Engine Light On..Mostly newer (late 90s and up) 4Runners, Tacos, Tundras, FJCs

Variety of causes, some surprising, some simple, but all guaranteed to give you a PITA:

3rd Gen ABS Front Wheel Speed Sensor Test and Replacment - Toyota 4Runner Forum (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116334-3rd-gen-abs-front-wheel-speed-sensor-test-replacment.html)

4Runner Speed Sensor - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/78-4runner-lounge/250696-4runner-speed-sensor.html)

VSC, TRAC, and Check engine lights on - Toyota 4Runner Forum (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-warranty-issues/12002-vsc-trac-check-engine-lights.html)

The last one is interesting in that the rear O2 sensor, if it is faulty or dirty, will throw a code triggering the lights AND disabling the traction stuff.

June 11th, 2012, 05:18 PM
Dealing with this, hope mine is the simple fix...

December 12th, 2013, 10:08 PM
Tacoma upper ball joint replacement trick. I was able to easily remove the ball joints, but getting the new one in was a PITA until I found the truck to use a pitman arm puller and trim it just a bit. New one went in smooth in about 10 mins.