July 1st, 2008, 08:00 AM
www.Custom4x4fabrication.com (http://www.Custom4x4fabrication.com)
www.rustysoffroad.com (http://www.rustysoffroad.com)

January 29th, 2009, 07:29 AM
Here is a sweet Jeep Build up site that I stumbled across looking at ARB rebuild information. This guy has done some very nice and comprehensive write ups on his Jeep, plus he has a bunch of pretty cool videos of hard trails around Phoenix. Worth looking at if for nothing else than the videos....


February 26th, 2009, 08:15 AM
I have had a starting issue with LaDawn's Jeep Cherokee for awhile and have been trying to diagnose it. I chased all sorts of threads and posts on the internet, literally reading hundreds of threads on many forums. Seems like the basic 'engine turns over, no fuel/spark/no start' is a rather universal problem that even dealerships can't sort out.

Turns out that there are two recurring fixes, neither of which is found in dealer information, Chilton's or Haynes. Here they are:

There are two screws that hold the cover plate on to your PCM/ ECU. This is located behind the coolant overflow on the passenger side of the rig. Jeep made these screws too long by about 1/4" and they tend to short out the circuit, sometimes intermittently. Remove the overflow. Pull the connectors off. Take a Torx screwdriver and back the screws out 1/4". If this fixes the problem, replace with shorter screws or grind 1/4" off old ones.

The second fix came about after reading two sentences in one of the threads. " To check to see if your Crank Positioning Sensor is good, unplug the plug from the passenger side of the motor that goes to your sensor (located on the driver's side of the bell housing above the shift linkage bracket on an automatic). Turn on your key and if your guages now work, the sensor is bad." This was the problem for me. Nowhere else did this information appear and the dealers couldn't tell me this simple trouble shooting hint.

Here is the link to the site that had the most information for chasing down the same problem. Turns out there are about 40 things that cause similiar problems for XJs, no matter the year model.


That doesn't work, go to : Jeep Grand Cherokee stalling fixed! on CNET Car Tech Forums page 3 of 5 or post #145of 290

Hopefully this will save someone the headaches, not to mention the cost of a new fuel pump. I ran a hot line directly to mine and it wouldn't work, so made the logical assumption that the pump was bad. Turns out that if the sensor is shot, your pump isn't getting the right signal, hot line or not.

Want to buy an 1998 XJ with a new fuel pump and Crank Sensor? Its going to be for sale. Good shape, too. Call LaDawn.
Morality is a subjective term used by victors to establish right and wrong.

February 26th, 2009, 11:13 AM

February 26th, 2009, 11:51 AM
Great resource for TJ Owners.


March 4th, 2009, 08:32 AM
Here come some links. The first has a list of suppliers and concerns an upgrade to an XJ from Petersons 4x:







Frame Stiffeners Links:


Reports and links:




Discussion forum links on frame stiffeners:




May 12th, 2009, 01:31 PM
Jeep axle information links:

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/jeepsaxlesrepairstips/Jeep_Axles_Specs_Tips_For_Repairing_Axles_on_Jeeps .htm


November 8th, 2009, 08:08 AM
Jeep Dana 30 and Dana 35 information:

Here are a couple of links for information regarding the replacement/repair/field repair of the standard Jeep axles: the Dana 30 front axle and the Dana 35 rear axle. One or both of the front axle links covers both the quick field repair and also replaceing the front axle seals. You essentially have to do all of the same work to get to the seals at any rate...Take note of the fact that if you purchase a used 30 front axle from the junkyard, that it is also well worth your while to get the whole assembly with the hub attached. You have very little work to do with this assembly to replace it in the field..

The Dana 35 rear axle has a very nice picture and description of the 'C' clips that hold the rear axle in place. Since this is a common trail break, it is well worth your time to learn how to do this in the field or, better yet, purchase a 'C' clip eliminator kit.




November 8th, 2009, 08:11 AM
Jeep XJ roll bar pictures and sources:

Our XJ guys were asking about roll cage sources and some ideas on external roll cages. This is for them. Manufacturers are listed where applicable.

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts:


10 Day Jeep Speed Roll Cage article:


Cruzin Illusions Roll Cage:




From Rusty's Off Road (I think this is Rusty's rig)


Note: While this doesn't have the external cage, it does have almost all the protection it needs: rock rails and front and rear bumpers, plus a sweet internal cage. Personally, I like the rock rails to extend almost even with the outside of the tires, providing both a step and a 'kick out' to protect the easily damaged body panels. This guys knows his XJs, though, and has just about everything for them. He is also probably the single biggest source for after market XJ parts anywhere.

CarDomain Jeep Grand Write up:


November 11th, 2009, 11:39 PM
More XJ/MJ related links, representin the "Cheap-Jeeps"!

Stock specs: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/cherokee-stock-specs-26256/

Tech/FAQ and TSB links: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/tech-faq-links-tsbs-89273/

Need a manual or parts catalog? Download it here: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

The board that keeps my junk on the road: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=42

The local chapter: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=95

If you work on your own XJ/MJ, you want Marcus' page cached in your favorites: http://go.jeep-xj.info/

Just because I'm cheap :D! Post #35 has an extensive list for longer brake lines: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70205&page=3

January 4th, 2010, 06:42 AM
Here is a lot of Jeep information:

Dana 30 Axle Seal Replacement:


Axle Specs and Tips For Repairing Axles:

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/jeepsaxlesrepairstips/Jeep_Axles_Specs_Tips_For_Repairing_Axles_on_Jeeps .htm

Dana 30 Axle Shaft removal:


Jeep Grand Cherokee/Grand Wagoneer Stalling Problem:


Jeep Axle Tech (Huge information source)


Jeep Security Systems:


January 6th, 2010, 06:14 AM
Homemade sway bar disconnects:







January 7th, 2010, 08:22 AM
A spin-off from JeepForum, the local guys put up an independant board: http://www.cojeeps.net/forums/index.php

January 8th, 2010, 10:22 AM
Heating problems, flushing the radiator, flushing the heater core links:


http://wiki.answers.com/Q/The_heater_core_is_most_likely_plugged_on_my_2000_ 2000_Jeep_Wrangler._How_do_you_back_flush



Some things to keep in mind on these posts:

Watch your regular garden hose pressure. It is easy to blow out the heater core.

Watch what temperature your upper and lower (main) hoses are. The heater core may not be the problem.

Watch the temperature of the heater hoses themselves. If you have heat in both, the problem is probably elsewhere.

Watch the cable/vent adjustment valve. Make sure that it is working properly.

Watch the suggestions for the right kind of radiator flush, how to use it to the best affect, etc.

Keep in mind that the heating system is comprised of many parts, including the thermostat.

February 2nd, 2010, 08:46 AM
Some good and reasonable Jeep modification can be found on this guys link:


The guy is a professional photographer and both he and his Jeep have appeared in a lot of off road publications.

February 22nd, 2010, 04:07 PM
I ran into these guys at the Hooligan's cancer benefit.

Nemesis Industries
Rob Graft
2820 South Zuni St. Suite 100
Englewood, CO 80110


These guys have started making some aerospace quality body, fenders, skid plates, hood supports, doors and more for Jeeps. It is some of the highest quality stuff I have ever seen.

Here is there website:


Check them out!

November 15th, 2010, 06:19 AM
Jeep alternator upgrade: stock 60 amp to 136 amp for cheap:

OK, for some time now, I was wanting to add an electric fan to my beast. I was really wanting to install one of the 91-95 3.8L Taurus dual-speed fans that is all the rage these days. The only problem with this was the 33A continuous draw and 100+A startup draw. So, that meant that the stock 90A alternator would be working its tail off. The only other option that I had, besides the out-of-the-question USD$300+ hi-amp alternator upgrade, was to purchase a decent aftermarket fan that drew only around 10A or so continuous. The problem with this is that these fans are not cheap. So, I went on a mission to find a replacement hi-amp OEM alternator. I read about people looking at 120 amp models and one mention of a 136 amp model but nobody, as far as I know, ever confirmed that any of these would even work on paper. Guess what, for a mere USD$30, I was able to upgrade to a 136 amp alternator with very, very little effort! You say this can't be true. Well folks, it is and I am about to show you!


Here's a photo of my original alternator.
Ok, now, I know that the OEM 90 amp alternator(OEM PN:56005685AB) in my 97 TJ was also used in the following:

* 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota
* 1991-1998 Jeep Cherokee
* 1991-1992 Jeep Comanche
* 1992-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
* 1991-1998 Jeep Wrangler

Note: I have only confirmed this entire modification on a 1997 4.0L Jeep Wrangler. I am unsure as to what motor combinations the above vehicles came with in conjunction with this particular 90A alternator. This is an "ON YOUR OWN AND YOUR OWN RISK" type of modification. If your wiring is not up to the task, etc., you could burn your jeep to the ground or injure yourself. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!


Here's what you're looking for.
You are looking for an OEM 136 amp alternator(OEM PN:56027913) that was an option on the following vehicles(I am unsure of what motor combinations, etc. were required):

* 1997-1998 Dodge B.Series Van
* 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota
* 1998 Dodge Durango
* 1997-1998 Dodge Ram Pickup
* 1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I got mine from a local Jeep yard for USD$30 out of a very clean 98 5.2L Limited that only had 60,000 miles on it when it was wrecked.

Here are the two alts. side by side. The higher amp. alternator is on the left.

I did quite a bit of research and found that the basic mounting dimensions and connections were the same between the two. You can see the physical size difference of the two. As a matter of fact the 136A alternator was 1 kg heavier. The only major difference was the direction of the plastic boot on the back of the alternator and the pulley is a 7 groove vs. my TJ's 6 groove. It was found that there was a 1 mm difference between the pulley diameters, but this is negligible and does not need to be addressed.

Ok, this mod is not much harder than installing a new alternator. I won't go into the details of changing the alternator, but rather, I will point out the details that must addressed during installation.

The first major difference between the two is the direction of the plastic boot. For ease of installation and clearance, this needs to be changed. By swapping the boots from the Wrangler to the Cherokee alternator, this change is easily accomplished. The boots are keyed (see red arrows) and install over the indicated stud below and locate on the small hole in the case (see green arrow).

The Wrangler boot is on the left and directs the exit of the boot away from the engine.

Details of the plastic boot positioning.

The other very minute detail to be attended to was the "spacer bushing" on the rear ear of the top alternator mount. The Cherokee's alternator's bushing (probably from rolling around on the floor) had been pushed too far inward and needed to be pressed back out. I accomplished this via a vise and large socket. Don't worry about pressing the bushing too far out because the mounting bolt will draw the bushing back tight again. The picture below shows the bushing after I pressed it out of the way:

The spacer bushing.

Finally, I mentioned that the Cherokee's pulley was a 7 groove pulley. If you wanted the extra work, you could simply swap the two alternators' pulleys. However, you do not need to do this. If you bias the belt to the rearward most six grooves, the belt and alternator will align and run just fine. You can see the alternator installed in the pic below with the belt biased towards the back.

Installed and ready to go. Notice how that the front groove on the pulley is unused.

Well, after the install, I tested the bad boy out. Everything seems to work just fine and I can crank the old stereo and run every electronic device in my jeep and hook up the Taurus fan to the battery and nothing even "blinks." Anyway, hopefully, someone will find this article helpful and save a few dollars in the process.

- Tod "Firetoad"

Once again, thanks to BC4x4.com for for fine tech! Here is the link with the photos: http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2004/jeepalt/

January 24th, 2011, 05:11 PM
From Chris (Fordboy)

Write ups on SOA TJ's
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/s...ite-up-401008/ (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/soa-conversion-write-up-401008/)

January 27th, 2011, 06:19 AM
From tbalcome:

When faced with troubles of my Vacuum CAD not working, my buddy Shawn designed this manual alternative! Works great so far!

Here is another link to a write up on BC 4x4 for a homemade cable actuator:


And a link to the commercial Posi Loc version of the same thing:


Keep in mind that if you do own a Jeep with the vacuum actuated 4x, you WILL end up stuck someplace in the cold and wet when this thing simply won't engage. Anything you can do to remedy this extremely brain dead piece of engineering, be it homemade or after market, is going to give you a lot of piece of mind. Before I did mine, I was living in the foothills and there were a couple of times when I went to bed and forgot to put the rig in 4WD only to wake up the next morning to find a foot or two of snow and freezing temps and not being able to engage 4WD to get out of the driveway....

Thanks for the reminder on this. I had almost forgotten since it has been awhile since I had a Cherokee that I needed 4WD on. Got one now, but haven't needed the 4WD yet....

February 1st, 2011, 02:16 PM
Hub and Axle Vacuum Disconnect Basics:


February 2nd, 2011, 07:22 AM
1988 Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 front axle and Warn hub rebuild/install:


April 18th, 2011, 04:43 AM
Dodge PS Box into Jeep Upgrade:

Here is the first link I found about the Dodge PS box into a Jeep.

This is a full write up with lots of pictures:


Same forum, different write up, more pictures and more information:


And yet another from the same forum:


Since there is a huge mess of pictures, information, part numbers, etc on all of these threads, I think they have the necessary information to do the deed.

April 24th, 2011, 08:39 AM
This link is courtesy of RidgeRunner:

Seen this before but I came across it again yesterday while I was looking for XJ alignment specs. There is a ton of links here for body, engine, electrical, drivetrain, and suspension mods and how-to's. Some of it can apply to other Jeeps as well.


September 11th, 2011, 09:44 PM
These are all links to upgrade your Dana 30 XJ, YJ, ZJ, and most Dana 30 axles to crossover steering using WJ knuckles and brakes. Some of the advantages are much less to no bump steer, no droop steer, better on road feel and much better brakes.


From Hypoid:

WJ swap FTW:
Crossover steering.
Better angles on all the rod ends.
Bigger front brakes.

The Terraflex kit is an expensive and easy way to run better steering with the same brakes.

The V-8, ZJ tie rod is what the factory should have put on to begin with. :mad:

Larger diameter, solid, V-8 tie rod on the Jeep. Hollow, stamped steel, stock tie rod on the ground.


Since I work at O'reilly and get discounts. I bought brand new Tie rods for V8 ZJ and have swapped them in in replacement to my XJ. The drag link is the same for both. The one that connect to the left knuckle is the main one bigger tie rod and the tie rod itself is solid steel instead of hollow sheet metal. Anyways with drag and tie rods all done it cost me about $212 which is awesome since Teraflex wants $200 for just one bar and a lot more for the full kit. I love the set up. Best part is no hard work is needed. Just change them out like a normal tie rod direct swap! It's Awesome!!!

September 18th, 2011, 06:42 AM

Ford 8.8":




Dana 44:


General Axle Information and Sources:


October 20th, 2011, 05:45 PM
Jeep Alignment Bible. Great information regarding Jeep aligning your Jeep and what it all means:


October 28th, 2011, 06:04 AM
Dana Axle Identification:

Dana specific:


A little more Dana ++:


This one might do the trick:





October 28th, 2011, 08:37 AM
Jeep Rear Pinion Seal Replacement.

I recently did one of these on Robyn's Jeep. The same principles pretty much apply to almost all pinion seal replacements. I had to use a breaker bar with an extension AND use a bottle jack under the end of the breaker bar (not safe, BTW, just so you know. I put a full face shield on so that it **** went flying, I wouldn't get a broken nose(again) or face full of steel) to bust the nut loose. 160 pounds of torque my ass....Anyway, once the nut was loose, everything went just fine:


November 17th, 2011, 08:28 AM
More Wheelbase For Your CJ5....and other leaf sprung jeeps...:

Researching getting some more wheelbase for Scrat's CJ5 led me to these link, mostly concerned with simple and cheap leaf spring swaps. A lot of useful information on various springs, what works best. outboarding the hangers, etc. etc.

CJ Frame/Wheelbase Stretch links

Here is a bit of a high dollar write up on a CJ5 with full width axles:


He ended up with something like 112"

Same article (112"), but on another forum with some added close up shots:


Another with a MAJOR frame stretch...another high dollar bit of work:


A 103.5" on a CJ7 which is almost the same thing. Look where they placed the front spring shackles. You have a lot of options, especially if you are doing form follows function and aren't worried about the cosmetics:


And another, this one using mostly Yota springs. Take a close look at the outboarded and angled front spring hangers. These were another couple of things that I suggested and the pictures really show the outboarding . I think he ended up with around 100"


Another on a different model. Same deal, though and this gives some good spring lengths and center pin measurements:


November 19th, 2011, 06:31 AM
Jeep Axle Information:


Front Axles:

Used in 1941-1965 Jeep MB, M38, CJ2, CJ3, CJ5 & CJ6
Closed knuckle
Ring gear diameter = 7.75"
Available ratios: 4.27, 4.88, 5.38
Width: 51"
Used in 1966-1971 Jeep M38A1, CJ5 & CJ6
Closed knuckle
Ring gear diameter = 7.25"
Available ratios: 3.54, 3.73, 4.27, 4.88, 5.38
Width = 51"
Used in 1971 to present Jeep CJ5, CJ6, CJ7, CJ8, YJ (Wrangler) & TJ, and 1971-1973 Cherokee & Wagoneers
Open knuckle
Ring gear diameter = 7.25"
Available ratios = 3.07, 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.27, 4.88
Width: Narrow track CJ = 53" Wide track CJ = 56" Wrangler = 60"
Axle shaft diameter = 1 5/32"x27 spline Inner; 1 5/32"x27 spline Outer stub
Note: 1987 and later 30s have Reverse Rotation ring & pinion gears
Note: 1971-1972 Cherokees and Wagoneers had closed front knuckles
No limited slip or locking differential was offered.
Used in 1967 to 1991 FSJ (J10, J20 trucks, Wagoneer, Cherokee)
Ring gear diameter = 8.75"
Available ratios = 2.72 - 5.89
Width: Varying widths from 58" - 62"
Note: Beginning in 1980, the differential was on the driver's side of the vehicle Closed knuckle till 1969; 1970 and later are open knuckle From 1967-1969, all 44 fronts used the 5-74x u joint inside of a closed knuckle From 1970-1973, all 44 fronts used the smaller 5-260x axle shaft u-joint (same size as a Dana 30)
Axle shaft diameter = 1 5/16"x30 spline Inner; 1 1/4"x19 spline Outer (1974-present), 1 1/8"x10 spline Outer (1967-1973) Note: 1967-1969 trucks had 1 1/4"x19 spline Inner axles
No limited slip or locking differential was offered.

Rear Axles:

Used in 1967-1968 light duty Jeepsters (C101)
Ring gear diameter = 7.25"
Available ratios = 3.31, 3.73, 4.27, 4.88
Note: These rear ends used tapered, two-piece axleshafts (similar to an AMC 20 rear). All were 5 on 5 1/2" lug pattern A Powr-Lok limited slip differential was offered
Used in 1950 to 1975 Jeep MB, M38, CJ2, CJ3, CJ5, & CJ6; and part year 1986 CJ7
Used in 1967-1972 /heavy duty Jeepsters (C101); 1967-1983 J10 trucks, 1967-1968 J20 trucks and 1967-1980 Wagoneer & Cherokee
Also used as an option in 1997-1999 TJs
Ring gear diameter = 8.75"
Available ratios = 2.72 - 5.89
Width: Varying widths from 58" - 62" FSJ; and 50.5" (1950-1975); (1986 CJ& = 54.5"; TJ 60") Axle shaft diameter: 1969-1980 (and 1986 CJ7) = 1 5/16"x30 spline one-piece Flanged.
All were 5 on 5 1/2" lug pattern
Note: 1950-1968 had 1 1/4"x19 spline two-piece tapered axleshafts (similar to an AMC 20 rear) A Powr-Lok limited slip differential was offered till 1968; from 1969 and later a Trac-Lok limited slip differential was offered.
Used in 1969-1983 Jeep J20 trucks
Ring gear diameter = 9.75"
Available ratios = 3.73, 4.10, 4.88 (1969-1973); 3.73, 4.10 (1974-1983)
Axle shaft diameter: 1969-1973 (medium truck) = 1 1/2"x35 spline semi-floating (5 on 5 1/2" lug pattern); 1969-1973 (heavy truck) and 1974-1983 = 1 5/16"x30 spline full-floating (8 on 6 1/2" lug pattern)
A Powr-Lok limited slip differential was offered till 1973; from 1974 and later a Trac-Lok limited slip differential was offered.

More axle information on this site as well:


November 20th, 2011, 02:56 PM
Cheap Jeep DIY Flattie Fenders:


November 20th, 2011, 06:01 PM
RokMen Jeep Builds:


November 29th, 2011, 06:57 AM
Jeep XJ Problems and Fixes:

Thanks to JP magazine! If you own a Jeep, this happens to be one of the better magazines out there.


November 29th, 2011, 06:58 AM
Common CJ Problems and Fixes:


November 29th, 2011, 06:58 AM
Common Electrical Problems and Cures:

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/electrical/154_1004_top_ten_jeep_electrical_problems_and_cure s/index.html

November 29th, 2011, 07:02 AM
4x4 Wire's Jeep Tech Link. A great source of Jeep TECH:


November 29th, 2011, 07:10 AM
How To Fix Your Death Wobble:

How To Fix Your Own Death Wobble

in Death Wobble Cures
How To Fix Your Own Death Wobble

(If you have questions or a comment… post it below, and we’ll answer you ASAP!)

As you have already found out, “Death Wobble” is the horrible front end vibration that starts when one tire (usually the right tire first) hits a groove or bump in the pavement somewhere around 40~50mph. Death Wobble is quite possibly the worst possible downside to having a coil-sprung front suspension on a vehicle with a track bar or panhard bar. Vehicles affected by this design are the Jeep Cherokee XJ, the Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ and WJ, TJ and JK Jeep Wrangler, (and also include trucks like Toyota, Ford, and Dodge Ram, as well as early Ford Broncos). Death Wobble is also extremely difficult to try to diagnose and fix, because it is actually caused by slop in the entire steering system as a whole, not by one component. To diagnose and fix Death Wobble correctly, your mechanic needs to look for “play” everywhere in the steering and front suspension system, searching for anything that could have “play” in it. It’s very time consuming to find a Death Wobble fix, and can be downright dangerous while you are in “testing phase”, trying to exorcise this demon from your Jeep or Truck.

The place I tell people to start, is with an overall visual inspection. Spend 10 solid minutes under the front end, visually inspecting each one of the steering components for shiny spots on steel, rubber, or polyeurthane, which is typically indicative of suspension components that are moving around when they are not supposed to be. Pay CAREFUL attention to the track bar (also called a Panhard Bar inside and ouside the USA, as well as variant spellings (misspellings?) of trackbar, tracbar, and trak-bar ). The Track Bar is often the culprit in many cases. And, if any of your bolts are even the least bit loose, Death Wobble also can manifest itself and make your life a living hell, so check for looseness everywhere.

If everything appears to be “normal” on the underside of your Jeep or Truck, and you’ve verified the bolt tightness on both ends of the track bar, the next thing to do is to start with a front end alignment, making sure that caster (frequently misspelled as ” castor “) is set correctly as well as toe-in. If you have been offroading and have bent your tie rod even slightly, that, also, will throw off your alignment. Plus, it’s only $40 or so at your local alignment shop. By the way, DO NOT let the alignment shop talk you into a four-wheel alignment, as this is only useful on vehicles with independent rear suspension in my experience, and since there are no adjustment points in the rear of a live-axle vehicle ANYWAY, you’re merely paying for a service that you won’t get by the time you leave the alignment shop. Furthermore, if you have a lifted vehicle, make sure that the alignment shop you choose knows the variant specifications for lifted vehicles, and that they do NOT set it to the “default/stock” settings. A good quality alignment shop familiar with lifted 4×4 vehicles will know these settings, and a poor quality shop will likely tell you that it doesn’t matter whether it’s lifted or not…and that they use the stock specs. Walk away immediately, or hang up the phone and call the next shop, if they do.

If you are now *certain* that the front end alignment that it’s set correctly, and that you have not replaced ANY other front end components recently (including tires or wheels) that may have caused the oscillation to begin, I tell people the next most suspect thing is the factory front track bar. Over time, the tie rod end on the upper portion of the Panhard or track bar (some applications like the WJ Grand Cherokee, the Ford Truck and the Dodge Ram have a rubber bushing configuration instead, which also wears out) develops “play” in it due to wear and miles on the vehicle. The same findings often goes for the lower end bushing, which has a rubber or polyurethane isolator bushing in it, and this “slop” will allow the Dreaded Death Wobble oscillation to occur.

Aftermarket trackbars generally come with urethane bushings that allow a LOT less “play” (with respect to movement / crush) than the factory rubber bushings do. The problem with most aftermarket track bars for the Jeep is that they also come with either a Heim joint, Johnny Joint, or tie rod end on the upper end of the Track Bar, which works fine for a while, but wears out over time, leaving you right back where you started, with a large mess in your shorts, a temporarily deafened right ear (from the wife screaming for dear life, or, quite possibly at YOU, for buying the Jeep to begin with, lol), and an overall high level of frustration with your entire rig in general…which doesn’t often lead into a smooth, stress-free trip.

The reason why I created my Track Bar Conversion for XJ Cherokees and ZJ Grand Cherokees is to eliminate that problematic (and expensive to have to replace when it wears out) previously mentioned joint, as well as for the additional flex benefits you get out of it. If you are running an Cherokee XJ or Grand Cherokee ZJ with or without Death Wobble, and it has more than 1.5″ of lift, I highly recommend you check it out. A complementary product we have found to work VERY well in getting rid of Death Wobble is our exclusive Hard-KOR brand SuperDurometer Track Bar Bushings, which are also available for the Track Bar Conversion. They are about TWO TIMES as hard as the typical polyurethane bushings that come in most aftermarket track bars, which typically are made by Daystar or Energy Suspension for most of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Polyurethane bushings are also one of the least expensive replacement parts in the steering components, so they make sense to try first.

Many aftermarket track bars as well as the stock track bar are completely ineffective in managing Death Wobble due to their “effective angle of operation” particularly if you are above say 2 or 3 inches of lift. Keep the thought in the back of your mind, that another alignment is necessary after replacing ANY front end components, especially if Death Wobble still remains. Sometimes you might get lucky and don’t need one…but be forewarned.

The next thing to check is your steering stabilizer. I recommend AT THE MINIMUM, replacing the stabilizer (or dampener, as it’s sometimes called) at the same time as whatever worn components that you find under the front end, as this
“combination punch” is very often more effective than the change caused by each of the parts alone. Death Wobble shakes EVERYTHING, and loosens up OTHER components at the same time. I’ve found that replacing the stabilizer by itself often times doesn’t eliminate death wobble directly, but that it often helps with some other poor handling characteristics, which cause the onset of Death Wobble (such as wandering, for instance) and a new one seems to tighten up the entire steering system. I ONLY recommend our Hard-KOR Steering Stabilizer or the OME SD40 stabilizer , because either one seems to be tighter and work better for stopping Death Wobble than the other manufacturers of steering dampeners and stabilizers on the market (and I’ve tried them all, trying like hell to get rid of a WJ Death Wobble problem years ago). They are also the most heavy duty that I’m aware of. These two stabilizers are the ONLY two that I recommend to ANYONE who is having trouble with Death Wobble, and it’s also one of the least expensive parts to replace in your steering system to attempt to remedy the problem.

Here are some other steering components to check over for looseness or improper movement:

Tie Rod Ends (all four, plus the upper track bar end)
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Track Bar Mounting Bracket Bolts
Steering Box Bolts
Track Bar Ends

Another product that we’ve made to assist with Death Wobble, is our XJ Cherokee Steering Box Brace for the Jeep Cherokee XJ, and our ZJ Grand Cherokee Steering Box Brace for the V8 and 6 Cyl Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ, which holds the steering gear box tightly on those two models, allowing the additional stresses of running larger-than-stock tires be directed to BOTH frame rails, rather than depending on the three little bolts that hold the gear to the frame, which get loose and if they do, will snap the gear box ears off the box, and leave you stranded somewhere you don’t want to be.

Another source of Death Wobble is over-inflated tires (you should have somewhere around 30psi or so in stock sized tires, and far less pressure the larger your tires are. See Boyle’s Law and consider how much more volume of air is inside your 33″ tires compared to stock-sized tires. As an example, I run around 18psi in my 37″ tires).

The last thing that I can mention that has caused Death Wobble in the past is hub bearings. If there is a little slop in them over the years and miles, they MAY indeed help to cause the oscillation as well. I mentioned them last because they are the most expensive to replace, and probably least likely to be the ROOT of the problem (though they might be a component adding to the problem).

While you have the front end apart, you should consider adding some offset upper ball joints to your Jeep if you’re running a lift kit, in order to return the caster back to what a stock Jeep would be if you are running say 4″ of lift or more. Be aware that on 4×4 models (especially full-time 4×4 models), by NOT changing the ball joints to the offset type, you add more vibration to the front drive shaft since you are also turning your pinion angle downward in conjunction with every caster angle increase. In other words, you can’t have one without the other, and on the full-time 4×4 models, you’ll get a little vibration at highway speeds by NOT doing so. Compared to Dreaded Death Wobble, however, this is a VERY small price to pay, lol.

Hopefully this short checklist gets you started on the right foot and helps to cure your Death Wobble problems, and gives you a permanent Death Wobble Fix.

Very Sincerely,


Thanks to Kevin at Kevins Off Road:


November 29th, 2011, 07:24 AM
Jeep Wrangler TJ: Weak Links, Strong Fixes:


November 29th, 2011, 08:08 AM


1998+ ISUZU Dana 44 Jeep Swap TECH:


November 29th, 2011, 08:14 PM
Dana 44 front axle knuckle information.


November 30th, 2011, 03:38 PM
JEEP CJ/TJ Hydro Boost Power Brake Conversions...Vanco or Chevy Astro:





Comprehensive, but no pictures:


December 21st, 2011, 07:49 AM

Alec (ccbruin) asked me to take a look at the angle of the rear coil springs on his 2002 TJ as he didn't like the way the springs bowed out. He is running an after market 4" or so Skyjacker Lift kit. I looked at the springs as well as the possibility of cutting off and rewelding the upper mounts in a new location. The cost of doing that is a bit prohibitive due to the welds and accessibility to the inside of the frame rails, so I decided to do a little research into the problem. Here is the information I sent to him, including sources from a couple of different manufacturers who provide kits to correct the problem. Hope this helps people with the same issues.

My question, of course, is if the manufacturer's of the Jeep lift kits KNOW that the rear coil angle is going to be changed SO MUCH that it causes a PROBLEM, why not provide the necessary correction bracketry TO BEGIN WITH? Really...just how ******* simple a solution is that? This seems to be a problem with any of the lift kits for Jeeps (to some degree, increasing as the lift increases) that I looked up, no matter who made them. Most of the companies offered a 'correction kit' for an additional price. That, people, is just plain stupidity....

Doing a little digging this AM regarding the rear coil angle. I pulled up the first two links and didn't get much, but here they are anyway. The best pictures are in the second link, but the coils are straight. I then googled 'problems with coil spring angles, etc" and the first thing that cropped up was a rear coil spring angle correction kit from Rough Country.



Rough Country:


And yet another fix for the same problem, but addressing relocating the top bracket:


The T&T Customs Coil Spring Relocation Brackets ($149)used:


And a similar one offered by Black Diamond ($109, but weld on) to address the same problem:


At any rate, Skyjacker and all the other companies should simply sell these parts in their lift kits to begin with as it is an recurring problem. If you decide to address the problem with one of the after market correction kits (and I am sure there are more than what I listed) keep in mind that a bolt on kit for $149 is probably going to equal a weld on kit for $109 by the time that the welding is done.

January 9th, 2012, 06:41 AM

1988 Jeep
1984 CJ
1987 Command Trac
1990 Manual Tranny
Generic 4.0L diagram
Jeep 4.0L
Jeep 360 V8
Generic Jeep

More can be found here along with other information:


And another one from Alec:

January 9th, 2012, 12:03 PM
Dynamic Fuel Injection modifies factory GM ECMs for conversions using GM fuel injection. They are tunable using your laptop.


January 15th, 2012, 08:23 AM

Here is some information and links courtesy of Popsgarage (Jonathan):

Upgrading the Dana 30. I think they've gotten a bad rep because they've been abused by kids who have no skinny pedal control. And the stuff listed here is just a start. I've been doing research on this axle for 5 years in preparation for an SAS in the wife's '94 Chevy S-10 Blazer. Now mine by the way.

RCV axle shafts. Lifetime you break 'em, we replace 'em guarantee. Kinda like a set of Bobby Longfields.


This one was made by Dave (RidgeRunner) here on the forum.

T&T Customs.

Iron Rock Offfroad. It's kind of a tie between this one at the T&T Customs truss.

Ballistic Fab. Using their XJ TJ Coil spring brackets in conjunction with their truss would strengthen the 30 pretty well.

Inner 44 magnum axle sleeves and C2 axle gussets.

January 22nd, 2012, 09:44 AM
Jeep Brake Line Trail Repair from ErrinJan:

Almost every Snow outing I've been on someone has torn off a Brake line including myself yesterday. Driving home with 1 front brake is hair raising at best.
Here's a part listed by Josh at S.F.F. Customs that makes for a cheap trail repair- Factory Chevy soft lines. They are about 25 inches long. And about 13-15 bucks at the parts store. Stock TJ brake lines are 18 inches.
Makes a nice upgrade or trail spare.
- Auto Sense: BH177760 - Wagner: 116846 - Midas: 2201

This brake line fits several different vehicles!

Wish I'd had one yesterday.


January 24th, 2012, 10:35 PM
This has a good exploded view of the Hydroboost unit and a good cut away and explanation. Starts on page 33.


January 24th, 2012, 11:25 PM
This explains how hydroboost works and possible problem causing culprits.


January 25th, 2012, 05:33 AM
Back up light/neutral safety switch problems? Here are some links, courtesy of Popsgarage (Jonathan):


And another. Not as detailed.


And here's a place to order one that won't cost you an arm and a leg.


February 13th, 2012, 09:44 AM
It really depends on what your looking for and what you're willing to pay. Here's just a few.

Rocky Road makes a nice set.

JCR makes a nice set.

Rock Hard makes a nice set.

Iron Rock Off Road makes a nice set.

AJ's Off Road Armor makes a really nice set.

T&T Customs makes a really nice set as well.

February 13th, 2012, 09:45 AM
Here's a couple of options for the unit body stiffeners. I'm a bit partial to the RuffStuff ones just by virtue of design. They spread the weld load over a much greater area. The T&T ones are nice, just two pieces.




February 21st, 2012, 01:58 AM
Speedometer Gear Replacement With Chart:


Quadratec has this chart:

http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowle...article-46.htm (http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-46.htm)

February 24th, 2012, 06:34 AM
Steering Box Replacement:



February 29th, 2012, 07:25 PM

* * * J E E P C O D E S * * *
CJ - CiviJeep - 1945 - 1986 (see #1 below)
DJ - Dispatch Jeep - 1952 - 1973 (see #2 below)
KJ - Liberty - 2001 - ? (we miss the XJ...)
MJ - Comanche - 1984 - 1991 (shared many things with the XJ)

SJ - Wagoneers - 1963 - 1983
SJ - Grand Wagoneers - 1984 - 1991 (4 made in 1992, see #12 below)
SJ - Cherokees - 1974 - 1983
SJ - J series - 1963 - 1986
(no idea what the compass and patriot models are, nor do I care at this time...)
TJ - Wrangler - 1997 - present
VJ - the 2wd JEEPSTER - 1948 - 1950 (see #6 below)

WJ - Grand Cherokee - 1999 - 2004 (completely new design, different from the ZJ)
the WJ is a superb jeep - avoid the 4.0L, it uses the same weak trans as the ZJ
and will not get that much better mileage than the 4.7L V8 which is a superb engine!)
WK - Grand Cherokee - 2005 - present (completely new design, different from the WJ)
(note: the WK has independent front suspension, less visibility, and what's up
with no "J" in the designator??? - it's a horrible change from the WJ.)

XJ - Cherokees - 1984 - 2001 -- THIS WAS the BEST all around Jeep ever!!!
XJ - Wagoneers - 1984 - 1992 (see #3 below)
YJ - Wrangler - 1987-1995 (see #4 below)
ZJ - Grand Cherokee - 1993 - 1998 (this is the GC with the Park/Reverse issue!)

john's vehicle history

<<< CORRECTIONS and additional Notes (input from Paul Weitlauf) >>>

1) Actually CJ stands for CiviJeep. It was trademarked by Willys-Overland
but never actually used. The model NAME for the CJ was 'Universal' until
1972, when it was dropped and the bobtailed Jeeps were just known by their
CJ-5, 6, 7, 8 & 10 designations.
1945 was the first production year for the CJ-2 Agri-Jeep (12 made).

2) DJ stands for Dispatch Jeep, not delivery. First introduced in 1952
as the DJ-3A, I'll have to check into the last year of formal DJ's.
Later Postal Jeeps are commonly called DJ's, but I recently found out,
at least in later years, this is not completely correct, they had D- #'s.
According to "JEEP - The 50 year history" it appears '73 was the last
year for non-governmental DJ's.

3) XJ Wagoneer's last year was '92. In '93 the XJ Wagoneer equal was
called the Briarwood

4) YJ's were made from '87-'95! There was NO '96 model Wrangler at all!!!

5) ZJ Grand Wagoneer '93 - ? Not sure, but I THINK this was only made in '93.
(editor: regardless of the year, it doesn't qualify for recongition, it
is NOT a "Grand Wagoneer", it's more a Chrysler mini-van with wallpaper... ;)

6) VJ Jeepster '48-'50 (2WD only) :(

7) FC Forward Control Trucks Nov'56 ('57 model?) -'66

8) C-101 Jeepster Commando '67-'73 (Jeepster part of the name was dropped
in '72, so '72 & '73's are just Commandos.)
(editor: many of these shared parts with the CJ-6)

9) 4XX & 6XX Willys Wagons & P/U's '46-'65 for Wagons, '48-'65

10) This only lists the Civilian models, less the little Jeep van... not sure
what these were called and there's not much written on them.

11) The list for military models is almost as long.
(Quad, MA, MB, MC/M-38, MD/M-38A1, etc....) :)

12) There were four Grand Wagoneers made in 1992, although the last official
year was 1991. The very last FSJ is in the National Auto Museum in
Reno, Nevada. I've visited with it... touched it... photographed it... ;)

(thanks to Paul Weitlauf for input and corrections)

And the WIKI:


March 6th, 2012, 08:03 AM
Basic Jeep Computer Codes:


March 27th, 2012, 01:40 PM
Jeep After Market Fuel Cell Information Links:

Fuel cell into Jeep links:




Huge amount of information here:




Reference a tank from HRP World. If you decide to get one from there, holler first as I am a dealer:


And very nice and very expensive BTF cell that allows you to keep the tank in the stock position:


April 26th, 2012, 05:01 AM

From Jim Williamson:

Taurus fan conversions have been hashed, extensively, on JeepForum.com Here are my URL's that I have specifically saved as I may one day do the mod (I don't like the noise the stock fan has - though it seems the mod fan is loud too).

Reviewing a few - this thread might be decent help (tho it doesn't say years)

In no particular order:


And a couple more:

Nice write up here:


And more information here:


April 27th, 2012, 07:28 AM





May 5th, 2012, 12:22 AM
Jeep CJ-5 power steering conversion.

Here you go. A couple of articles to get you started.

Manual to Power Steering Conversion - Jeep-CJ Tech. Articles


power steering box swap advice - Jeep-CJ Forums


And a couple that use brand new parts and their related articles.



May 7th, 2012, 06:23 AM
CJ7 Ground Up Restoration Project. This is very well documented and, because it is a Jeep, almost everything this guy has done to this Jeep crosses over for other Jeeps. Everything was done to this rig, and the article is very well organized and well written. A great reference whether you need wiring diagrams or tips on how to restore vinyl.


May 7th, 2012, 06:33 AM
Jeep Brake Bleeding:


May 7th, 2012, 06:57 AM
Brake Caliper Rebuild:

Basic video of a Caliper Rebuild. You may not want to bother with this on Jeeps as the loaded rebuilt calipers are really cheap. The rebuild kits are cheap, too, so it is up to you. I was researching rebuilding the Yota calipers on my heap for which the rebuilt calipers are certainly not cheap...Typical Yota price hike....