90 xj tie rod issues

[thorsbeans]

So I have a 90 xj with rusty's 1 ton steering conversion. When I got the jeep the tie rod ends were bad. So I could only find the part that rusty's says fits from 4 wheel parts. They are dana spicer brand. Anyway, the drag link ends both work fine, but the ends that go to the steering knuckle seem to be too small. I torqued one side down to the specified tq and the cotter key hole was way high above the castelations so it would be pointless to use a cotter pin. Plus it shouldn't be like that anyway. And when I went to take it out it was seized in the knuckle and it looked like the very bottom where the threads ended were pulled through the hole. We couldn't even beat it out. We ended up having to break the tie rod to get it off. Does this sound like a wrong tie rod or a wallowed out steering knuckle hole? I'm afraid to even try the other side.

[Robert B]

check the holes if they look to be machined smooth perfect still then id say wrong joint .... if they have a funny shape then maybe wallowed but its a huge wallow if it goes that far ....... also check of the holes are straight or the conical shape as that will give a possible solution

[Geno]

I just put in 1 ton Dana tie rod end over knuckle on my TJ, the holes in the knuckles DO have to be enlarged either by a tapered reamer tool to the correct size ,or, as I had done, get the insert kit and drill out the knuckle and install the insert. If the tie rod end is too far through the knuckle, maybe some one did drill out the knuckles for the insert and it now missing, " has no insert in it" or something is missing ,or, 2nd possible issue, before this, I tried a heavy duty 7/8 DOM pipe inverted "Y" steering set up and it did have a set of washers to be installed on the tie rod ends ( for stock knuckle holes) to keep the castle nuts in the proper place and the cotter pin hole in alignment. I would contact Rusty's and see if they can tell you what all parts were in your kit and you can see if something is missing, with out pictures or seeing the truck in person. My big issue is the threads should not touch the knuckle at all, because the will chew into the knuckle as they are torqued in as you have seen on your Jeep. MY :2c: ,Pictures will help me to figure out what's up with your front end. (yes I know I need to post Pics of my new steering set-up)

[Popsgarage]

Sounds like the wrong ends or a severely wollowed out hole in the knuckle.

[thorsbeans]

Here are some pics. the first is just the front end. the second is the tie rod end and i'm pointing at the part that tapers outward that you can see coming through the knuckle. third is just it in the knuckle where you can see the taper and fourth is showing the cotter key hole too high and thats only hand tight.

[Geno]

Hello, In pic 3 it looks if there is some kind of spot welding on the top of the knuckle ??. I would go back to 4 wheel parts and see if they have a parts list for that set up, small parts bags do fall out of boxes or get lost. I have had a set up, that had a set of thick.075 washers to place on top of the knuckle to space the nut off the knuckle and so the nut would not bottom out on the tapered part of the tie rod end, and damage the tapered end so it will not pull back out of the tapper knuckle.. . 2nd do you still have the original tie rod ends that came off the truck, you could then compare the 2 tie rod ends side by side to verify if the tapper angle is the same ( to match the angle in the knuckle) as the original . If the tie rod end you broke is still in the knuckle , take a torch and heat the knuckle evenly as possible to get it to expand some then use a brass drift and hammer to remove the broken tie rod. Do not over heat.(like cherry red). that could distort the tapper in the knuckle, and a new/ correct tie rod would not seat properly again.