Thread: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS

Toyota CV (Double Cardan) joint mod for increased angle:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota-tech/t...ncreased-angle

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota-tech/i...ncreased-angle

FYI, Englewood Drive Shaft will do this for you if asked.

Toyota Engine Conversion and Swaps Information:

3.0L to 3.4L:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota-tech/t...ine-conversion

ORS instructions:

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/tech.html#engine

ORS 3.4L Swap Tech Manual:




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3.4L ENGINE CONVERSION TECH INFO - MANUAL TRANSMISSION

Intro
Transmissions
Wiring
Oil pan
Exhaust
Hood clearance
Donor parts
Conversion Parts
Average Costs
Installation
Another word on this conversion
3.4L FAQ’s
Intro

Here at Off Road Solutions we are proud to be a part of the 3.4L engine conversion craze. We offer conversion kits designed to allow the easy installation of a Toyota 3.4L engine into an older Toyota Truck or 4Runner. We also manufacture parts that can be used to put this engine into virtually anything. Our parts are derived from many knuckle busting years of performing this conversion. Here is some information that should be helpful when considering (and performing) this conversion.

Before reading too far, we want to be honest. No matter how you look at it, engine conversions can be expensive and time consuming. This conversion is great for those wanting something different, those who love their older Toyota, and those in search of "sweetness."

The 3.4L, 5VZ-FE was released mid-year 1995 into Tacoma trucks and T100 trucks. It is the successor to the 3.0L, 3VZ-E. The engine code means that it is the 5th engine in the "VZ" family. "F" represents dual overhead camshafts in each engine head. The intake camshaft is driven by the timing belt, which turns the exhaust camshaft by way of a "scissor" gear. Anybody who’s into Toyotas will know the "E" represents electronic fuel injection. This motor was also released into the 3rd generation 4Runners (1996-2002) and base model Tundras.

There are many advantages that lead people to use this power plant in place of other conventional choices. The 3.4L takes advantage of late model technology. It is lightweight yet powerful, producing 190HP at 4800 RPM and 220 lb-ft torque at 3600 RPM. It is equipped with a smooth Toyota multi-port fuel injection system using a distributor-less ignition system and OBDII diagnostics. Its dual overhead camshaft design makes it efficient on fuel and offers great opportunity for power upgrades. This motor LOVES forced induction modifications, such as the beloved TRD Supercharger system. This engine also fits very well into a Toyota truck or 4Runner. Because of its size and components, the conversion can look "factory" if performed properly. Don’t forget- one huge advantage is the "cool factor" of swapping in a late model Toyota motor!

Although the 5VZ-FE has been around for years, it has many versions varying by model and year. There are several things to be aware of when considering this swap and purchasing the ORS conversion kit.
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Transmissions

If your vehicle has a 3.0L engine your transmission and bell housing can be used behind the 3.4L. The R150 (manual) transmission is nearly identical to the unit placed behind a 5VZ-FE from the factory (also an R150). The only external difference between the older and newer R150 is the length of the input shaft, the depth of the bell housing, and the bolt pattern on the rear (4x4 models). The later (3.4L) version uses a longer input shaft and deeper bell housing. The newer version also uses a driver side output transfer case with a different bolt pattern. This makes it easier and more economical to use the older R150 from a 3.0L application. The use of a 3.4L pressure plate, disc, and pilot bearing allow this transmission to bolt into the truck without modification. These parts can be found in our Full Conversion Kit.

An R151 manual transmission found behind a 22R-TE (turbo) can also be used behind this engine. However, a bell housing from a 3.0L application will have to be used. This transmission is mated with a gear driven transfer case equipped with a beefy 23 spline input, the strongest transfer case found in a Toyota. It also has a lower first gear ratio. Sort of a big deal for some...

If you are using a manual transmission, the 3.4L engine will need to come from a manual transmission vehicle. In SELECT year models we have found a difference in crankshaft machining from the factory. In these instances an engine from an automatic transmission application will not accept a pilot bearing. Another reason to purchase a manual transmission "package" is the difference in electronics. The engine ECU and the engine wiring harness are completely different from manual to auto. Based off experience, we recommend purchasing all the used parts from one manual transmission vehicle. Once again, purchasing all used parts from the same donor vehicle has been proven to prevent grouchy mood swings.
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Wiring

The wiring is possibly the most complicated part of this conversion. The 3.4L fuel injection system is entirely different from that of the older Toyotas. This means all the electronics that Toyota gave the 3.4L will have to be in place in your older Toyota in order to make this engine purr. Unfortunately, the electronic EFI components from your older Toyota 3VZ or 22R will be useless in this swap.

There are 3 primary parts of this fuel injection circuit. The first is the engine wiring harness. This is the harness that is primarily attached to the engine. This is sometimes called the injector harness. This harness connects to engine components like the fuel injectors, ignition coils, air flow meter, etc. and then carries the wires into the passenger compartment through the passenger side firewall.

The second main part is the Engine Control Unit, or ECU. This is also called the Engine Control Module, or ECM. Sometimes it is just called the computer. I guess we like to call it the ECU. This is the heart of the fuel injection system. This maze of solid state circuitry uses various input signals to control the engine electronics.

The third main part of the 3.4L electronic fuel injection circuit is the body harness. This is sometimes called the "dash" harness or the main harness. This harness is the largest harness in the vehicle and carries the majority of the entire vehicle’s circuits. About 40% of the fuel injection’s circuit is contained in this complicated harness.

The engine wiring harness and ECU are easy to install in another vehicle when performing this swap, but the real challenge comes about when it’s time to take care of that last 40%. That is when Off Road Solutions comes in. We offer a conversion harness that is designed to provide that last 40% of the 3.4L fuel injection circuit. This harness connects to the 3.4L ECU and engine wiring harness, then plugs directly into your older Toyota. In some cases it will even act as a stand-alone harness that completes the engine circuit. Either way, the original wiring in your older Toyota will not have to be torn apart or changed in order to accommodate this new engine. It’s really cool. The alternative is to re-wire your entire vehicle with a newer body wiring harness. The ORS conversion wiring harness will save you an enormous amount of time and heartache. Trust us, we’ve tried both.

The ORS conversion harness is found in every conversion kit and is also sold separately. There are many discrepancies in factory wiring configurations between years and models. This makes it very important to match the ORS conversion harness to your conversion. This is another great reason to purchase all the donor parts from the same vehicle.
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Oil Pan

Most 3.4L engines are equipped with an oil pan that will not fit the suspension in an older Toyota. If your 3.4L came from a T100, you may be in luck. If your 3.4L came from a Tacoma, 4Runner, or Tundra, you will have to swap out your oil pan to fit this engine into your older Toyota. The oil sump on the above applications is in the front of the engine, right where the steering and differential like to hang out. An oil pan from a V6 equipped T100 will have to be used in this conversion. A 4WD T100 pan will work well with 4WD IFS trucks, and a 2WD T100 oil pan works well with live axle 4WDs and 2WDs. The oil pan accessories, such as the oil sump and dipstick parts, will also need to be replaced to accommodate this new oil pan. Coincidentally, the oil pans found on the 3.0L engines are the same pans from the V6 T100s. 4WD and 2WD applications work the same. However, if using a 3.0L oil pan, the oil sump and dip stick hardware need to come from a 3.4L T100 application. These parts can also be found in most Off Road Solutions 3.4L conversion kits.

Another concern is the oil dipstick placement. All Tacoma, 4Runner, and Tundra models have the dipstick placed in the front of the motor, in the oil pump housing. During the conversion, the dipstick will be moved toward the rear of the engine to accommodate the conversion oil pan. 1999 and earlier models have a machined hole with a removable plug where the dipstick will be installed. In 2000 and later models this hole no longer exists and will need to be drilled to perform the conversion. If curious when shopping for an engine, inspect the block directly underneath the driver side engine mount just above the oil pan for the plug (see illustration).

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Exhaust

There are many ways that the exhaust system can be done in this conversion. It is popular to use the factory exhaust manifolds from the 3.4L engine. The OEM 3.4L exhaust uses a crossover pipe that ties the two manifolds together behind the engine, above the bell housing. This pipe, however, exits on the passenger side. It is more difficult to route the exhaust down the passenger side, due to brake and fuel lines, the transfer case, and the fuel tank. ORS offers a custom crossover pipe similar to the 3.4L OEM unit, but routes both banks to the driver side. This will allow a cleaner and easier exhaust system installation. This "dumps" the exhaust on the proper side of an older Toyota, and keeps the undercarriage free of any crossover exhaust pipes. When ordering an ORS crossover pipe, note the year of the donor engine. This will denote the type of exhaust manifolds on the engine (either can be used).

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If performance exhaust is desired, we recommend using the Downey header system with a custom built exhaust system. When using the Downey system, exhaust will need to be routed down both sides of the bell housing to a custom crossover pipe underneath the vehicle. Earlier Toyotas were designed to have the exhaust routed down the driver side of the vehicle. With this header setup care must be taken when routing the exhaust down the passenger side to be clear of fuel lines, brake lines, and the front drive shaft (and don’t forget the fuel tank too).

Once the headers or factory manifolds are in place, a custom exhaust will need to be built on your vehicle. If emission regulations are a concern, it is the customer’s responsibility to research the local regulations to ensure the modifications will be legal. If the donor vehicle had 2 catalytic converters, 2 converters need to be installed in order to satisfy the ECU’s emission controls. If the donor vehicle only had 1 converter, 1 good replacement will suffice. 2 oxygen sensors are needed. 1 will be placed before the catalytic converter(s), but after the crossover. The other will need to be placed after the catalytic converter(s). We strongly recommend using Toyota or OEM quality replacement oxygen sensors. The choice of muffler, materials, diameter, etc. will be up to the customer. We recommend using a 2.25" or 2.5" diameter, depending on your performance plans. Most local exhaust shops should also be able to build a mandrel or traditional system tailored to your needs.

We are often asked if the catalytic converters and oxygen sensors are needed. Our answer is yes. This fuel injection system is designed to have 2 oxygen sensors and 1 or 2 catalytic converters. The OBD2 diagnostic system can detect if an oxygen sensor or a catalytic converter is missing or faulty. If so, the ECU will operate on a different fuel map, causing a loss in performance in order to conserve fuel (and reduce emissions) until the condition is corrected. This engine will run better with these emission systems properly installed. Besides, we don’t need to stink up our outdoor playground any more than necessary, do we?
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Hood Clearance

Another concern we have found is that this engine is physically too tall to fit under the hood of your vehicle without modifications. The intake plenum is taller than that of the 3VZ-E, not allowing the assembly to fit between the suspension and the hood. We have found that a small amount of hood trimming or a 2" body lift will cure this problem. In most cases we have found that a small hood scoop will cover the hole cleanly. The necessary clearance hole is a little larger on the ’84-’88 body style. Body lift kits and hood scoops are available through Off Road Solutions.

Recommended Hood Scoop Installed
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Hood cut performed on ’84-’88 body style
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Donor Parts

When shopping for the parts in this conversion, there are a few groups of parts to consider.
The first is the engine itself and the OEM parts associated with it. These parts are not provided and are usually found in a salvage yard.
The second is the conversion parts. ORS offers different conversion kits, depending on the customer’s needs. Many of these parts cannot be found on the donor or recipient vehicle, but are necessary to perform the swap. Some of these parts are not necessary, but very helpful when doing a conversion.
The third group to consider is not necessary, well not for some... Performance stuff. Headers, supercharger, ORS crossover pipe, tuning kits... You get the idea. This would be a great time to add this stuff.

A few Goodies for a "faster" conversion.
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Downey Headers
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This is a list of the OEM parts needed, including the engine. These parts are NOT included in our kit and will need to be provided by the customer from a 5VZ-FE equipped vehicle. New parts can be used, however, used parts are most common. The used parts market price of this list can vary greatly. We’ve seen this list sell from $1200-3000.
5VZ-FE longblock- new, remanufactured, or used
Both exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe (unless using a header system)
Intake manifold
Intake plenum with throttle body
All items on motor related to fuel injection such as injectors, fuel rail, vsv’s, sensors, throttle body, etc.
Alternator and brackets
Power steering pump and brackets
A/C compressor and brackets
Spark plugs
Spark plug wire set
Cylinder coil packs (3)
Engine (injector) wiring harness
ECU (computer)
Igniter assembly (flat, square shape, usually black, near intake box)
Intake system- tubing, air box, air filter. If upgrading to an aftermarket intake system, only the air flow meter mounting tube and hardware will be necessary.
Evaporative canister (optional)
Evaporative vapor pressure sensor
Evaporative vapor pressure VSV
Evaporative purge VSV
Starter
Air flow meter
Flywheel with mounting hardware
Oxygen sensors (2), post and pre-cat
OEM oxygen sensor exhaust ports (welded to pipe)
All the OEM hardware you can get your hands on...
The following parts will need to be re-used from your vehicle (or a 3.0L equipped vehicle), if in good condition. If these parts are not in good condition ORS can offer replacements.
Radiator- 3VZ-E application - yes, we use this one
3.0L Shroud
3.0L fan assembly
3.0L fan clutch assembly
Engine Mount Brackets
Misc. OEM hardware
Oil pressure sending unit (if equipped with oil pressure gauge)
2.4L to 2.7L;

http://4wheeloffroad.automotive.com/...wap/index.html

Toyota Diesel FAQ and Guide:

http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/toyotadiesel/
Toyota FJ40 Turbo Diesel Swap:

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/featur...wap/index.html

More Toyota Diesel Swap links:

http://www.sr5.net/
http://www.toyotadieselmadness.com/

Regearing Toyota axles:

LC with electric locker:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/landcruiser_elocker/

3rd member removal:

http://www.atarmor.com/3rdmemwriteup/writeup2.htm

Toyota axle ID:

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=274535

Tire and Lift FAQ (applies to all rigs):

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/article...ifts_Tires.htm

Toyota websites:

Sources for Discount Toyota Parts
Bob Bridge Toyota
Penn Toyota - penntoyota@yahoo.com
Freeman Toyota - 25% off to TLCA members. 800/225-3055.
Jay Marks Toyota - 25% off to TLCA members. 800/327-2087. parts@toyotaworld.com.
Partznet
Romania Toyota - Eugene, OR.
Stanger Toyota - TLCA discount. 800/451-8384.
Sterling McCall Toyota - 800/392-3341. parts@sterlingmotorsports.com
ToyotaParts4U.com
ToyotaDiscountParts.com
eToyotas.com
Texas Toyota
USA Toyota Parts - Toyota of Richardson, TX.
Sources for Body Parts, Tools and Hardware
Boneyards for Used Toyota Parts
Bushwacker Fender Flares
Toyota Parts Online
Car-Body-Parts-Online.com
Auto-Body-Parts-Wholesale - Seems to be same company as above.
Truck-Body-Parts-Online.com - This also seems to be the same company as the two above.
2Autobodyparts.com - This too seems to be related to the three above.
Toyota Parts Store
Car Parts Wholesale
Murphys Autobody Parts, 888/900-1444.
Certi-Fit, 888/619-0003 (NJ), 800/373-6990 (WA).
Way Off Road - Fiberglass beds for 84-88 trucks.
B & G Fiberglass - Fiberglass beds for 84-88 trucks.
Grainger - Hardware and tools.
McMaster Carr - Hardware and tools.
MSC Industrial Supply Co. - Hardware and tools.
Newman Tools. Inc - Tools.
MSC Industrial Supply - Tools and hardware.
Online Metals - Steel, aluminum, brass, copper.
Performance Toyota: Motors and Motor Parts
D.O.A. Racing Engines - Performance Toyota motors and motor parts (throttle bodies, intakes, cams, steel chain guides).
LC Engineering - Motors, parts, and accessories.
Engnbldr.com - RV Camshaft for 20r/22r/22re motors.
TCR Toyota High Performance - Motors and parts. [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/21/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
Doug Thorley Headers - Tri-Y design for increased torque and horsepower at lower RPM's.
MSD Ignition Products
Magnecor Plug Wires
Jacob's Electronics - Plug wires, coils, and ignitions.
Toyota Racing Development (TRD) - Camshafts, tee-shirts, hats, accessories.
Toyota Modifications Info Server
Amsoil - Air and oil filters, alternative to K&N. Also motor and tranny synthetic oils.
K&N Engineering - Performance filters and induction.
Performance Toyota: Off-Road
4x4 Labs - Cross over steering.
Advanced Adapters - 4:1 Trail Tamer transfer case gears. Also, motor swap adapters.
Advanced Off-Road Research - Orbit-Eye springs and other stuff.
All Pro Offroad - Cross-over steering, t-case skid plates, solid axle conversions, springs, and other neat stuff.
Bud Built Frames and Accessories - Super transfer case crossmember.
Downey Off-Road - Finally!
Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
Inchwormgear - Dual transfer case alternative to Marlin. Electric locker axle modification.
Marlin Crawler - Extra-low range 4.7:1 transfer case. Also duel transfer case setups, Marlink tie-rods, Marfield front axle joints, and other "way cool" stuff.
Northwest Metal Products - Auxillary gas tanks. Love both of ours.
Northwest Off-road Specialties - Toyota performance parts and accessories. Shop at your own risk.
O.T.T. Industries - Cross-over steering parts.
Persson Offroad Systems - Stainless steel swaybar disconnects, WOW! Now out of business. DANG!
Rockstomper - Misc parts.
Performance Off-Road
ARB 4x4 Vehicle Accessories - Bumpers, suspensions, IPF lights.
Can-Back Soft Tops
Con-ferr Products - Accessories.
Interstate Batteries - Extreme Performance Battery, an option to OPTIMA.
Master-Pull Recovery Equipment - Winch "cables" and other stuff. [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/21/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
Oasis Off-Road - Really cool tire deflators, air tanks, welders.
OPTIMA Batteries - Simply the best.
Premier Power Welder
Ramsey Winches
Warn Winches and Black Diamond Suspension
Suspension Products (see also Performance Toyota: Off-Road)
Alcan Springs - Real flexy, custom springs.
ARB 4x4 Vehicle Accessories - OME springs.
BDS Suspension - Soft springs.
Black Diamond (Warn) Suspension
Edelbrock - Performer IAS shocks.
Energy Suspension - Polyurethane suspension components.
Heckethorn Off Road & Rough Country Suspension
Rancho Shocks
Revtec Industries - Late model Toyota lift suspensions.
Suspension Restoration Parts Co. - Good source for poly bushings.
Skyjacker Suspension
Trailmaster Suspensions - IFS only.
Drivetrain: Ring/Pinion, Lockers, Driveshafts
ARB 4x4 Vehicle Accessories - Air Locker.
Tractech Inc. - Detroit Locker, TrueTrac limited slip.
Powertrax - Lock Right locker.
CV Unlimited - Newfields, driveshafts.
Longfields - Super, "unbreakable" birfields.
DriveTrain Direct - Gears and lockers.
National Drivetrain Inc. - Gears and lockers.
Randy's Ring & Pinion - Gears and lockers.
Reider Racing ENT., Inc. - Gears and lockers.
West Coast Differentials - Gears and lockers.
Mountain Driveline - Arizona. Custom driveshafts.
Arizona Drivelines - Custom driveshafts.
High Angle Driveline - Custom driveshafts.
Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts - Custom driveshafts.
Tires and Wheels
B.F. Goodrich Tires - All-Terrain T/A, Mud-Terrain T/A, Baja T/A.
Bridgestone Tires - Dueler A/T and Dueler M/T tires.
Goodyear Tires - Wrangler MT/R and AT/S tires.
Interco Tire Company - Super Swampers, Boggers, Thornbird Tires.
Micky Thompson Performance Tires and Wheels
American Eagle Wheels
American Racing Wheels
Centerline Wheels
U.S. Wheel
Weld Racing Wheels
Discussion and Newsgroups
Many of the sites listed below offer groups for most makes of 4x4's. They all have a Toyota specific section, usually divided into SUV/Trucks and Land Cruiser groups.
IH8Mud - A little bit of everything Land Cruiser. Tech, BBS, etc.
Off-road.com Discussion Groups - Excellent upgrade and repair libraries, product reviews.
Tacoma Territory Pickup Home Page - This site has developed a rather strong following.
4Runner Discussion Group
Pirates of the Rubicon - Nice discussion groups. Mostly geared for the serious rockcrawler.
The SR5 Network
Toyota 4x4 Pickup Discussion Group - Fairly active group.
4x4 Wire Discussion Groups - Good upgrade and repair libraries, product reviews. Some historic Off-road.com editors have moved here.
Organizations & Personal Sites
Toyota Links by Minnesota Toyx4's - Almost 800 useful links.
Tennessee 4x4 - The master of 4x4 link pages.
New Mexico 4-Wheelers
Corolla Performance - Has nothing to do with Toyota trucks. But the site is good.
Toyota Celica Owners Page
Bob's Solara and Camry Page
CamryMan's Passing Lane - Camry Forum and links.
Toyota Mygokart Performance Directory
Gunter Automotive Tech Page - Mostly Toyota car related, but still a great site.
Automotive Repair Information, Recall, and Technical Service Bulletins Site
Oil Filter Study - A must visit site.
Rockcrawler.com
Shade Tree Mechanic on TNN
Trucks! on TNN
HorsePower TV on TNN
Toyota Australia - Look what they get! Dang!
Toyota South Africa - Why can't we get this stuff?
Jeff Mosk's 22R-TE Page - A personal site.
Jay Kopycinski Toyota 4x4 Page - A personal site.
ToyotaLand Cruiser Products
Land Cruiser Owners OnLine - An international site for 80 series owners.
4x4 Labs - Steering arms and custom fabrication.
Aqualu Industries - AluminumLand Cruiser bodies.
BTB Products - Land Cruiser off-road products.
Bulletproof Manufacturing - Land Cruiser bumpers.
Canada Cruisers - Land Cruiser reproduction panels.
CruiserParts.net - Used Land Cruiser Parts.
Classic Cruisers - Land Cruiser new and used parts, accessories.
Cool Cruisers of Texas - Restoration and sales.
Extreme Bends - Body parts and adapters.
FJ60.com - Dedicated to this Land Cruiser wagon.
JK Customs - Custom built accessories.
JT Outfitters - Body, suspension, AC, restoration, mechanical.
Land Cruiser Advanced Handling - FJ40 Accessories, shackle reversal, conversions, suspension.
Man-A-Fre - Accessories.
Marks Offroad - New, used, and rebuilt 4X4 parts and accessories
Over the Hill 4x4 - Transfer case saver.
Restored FJ40.com
Slee Off-Road - Accessories for 80-series Land Cruisers.
Slowspeed - FJ62 FJ60 Resource.
Specter Off-Road - Parts and accessories.
TLC - Sales, service, restoration.
TLC Concepts[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PETERB%7E1.LAP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/21/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
TPI Land Cruiser - Parts and accessories.
TSM - Rear disk brake conversions.
Up and Over Innovations - Restorations and conversions.
Warden's Auto Repair - Conversions and parts.
ToyotaLand Cruiser Association
Toyota Land Cruiser Association
High Desert Cruisers - New Mexico's TLCA chapter.
West Texas Land Cruiser Association - El Paso, TX.
Yankee Toys - A TLCA chapter from the NE.
Rising Sun 4x4 Club of Colorado - Host of Cruise Moab.
Colorado Land Cruisers - Colorado Springs.
Arizona Land Cruiser Association
Cascade Cruisers - OR.
Gold Coast Cruisers - Ventura, CA.
Gotham City Land Cruisers - NY.
LA County TLCA - Sunland, CA.
Lone Star Land Cruisers - Texas.
SoCal TLCA - Torrance, CA.
Tornado Alley Cruisers - Kansas City, MO.
Land Cruiser Legends of Wisconsin - Appleton, WI.
Other Product Sites
Aquamist - Water injection.
Bestop Inc - Soft tops for FJ40's.
Specialty Top C. (ex Kayline) - Soft tops for FJ40's and 4Runners.
4x4 Trailers, LTD. - Sport Utility Trailers
Sportz Truck Tent II - Tent for the truck bed.
ENEL Adventure Truck Tent - Tent for the truck bed.
Lofty Shelters Over Camp - Roof rack tent.
Tentrax Sport Utility Trailers - Off-road tent trailer.
Backcountry USA Trailers - Off-road trailer with optional tent.
Blitz - Fuel cans and other stuff.
Crutchfield - Decent prices and selection on car audio.
FireStik - CB Antenna Company.
Herculiner - Brush on bedliner.
Duplicolor - Paints and brush on bedliner.
Line-X - Spray on bedliner.
Lo-Tek - Custom Gauge Pods.
Rhino Linings - Spray on bedliner.
Mechanix Wear - Gloves.
Painless Performance Products - Wiring products.
R&M Specialty Products - Unlimited hot water camping shower.
Decker's Hot Camp Showers
Rock Nob - Solid rock shift knobs.
PIAA Professional Halogen Lamp Systems
LED-Tronics - LED lighting products.
LED-R-Us - LED lighting products.>
LED Lights From Graphic Design Moto Design





Links

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The following are links to some of our favorite Toyota 4x4 sites on the 'Net. If you have one that you thinks other visitors would like to see, let us know by E-mail and we will check it out and add it to the list.
Jack Bercaw's Web Site - Jack has had some fun fixing up his rig. Check out his site to see what he has done.
Marshall's Toyota - Marshall "weadwacker" McKerchie's web page. More Toyota 4x4 things to look at.
Corey's Toy - Cory Maidment's Toy box is a fun ride. Check out his page to see what he is up to.
Killer Toy - Cody Voorhees is proud of his Toy. Check here to see what he has done to make it a 'Killer'.
Stout Equipment - Nathan Kofahl's Toyota is an example of a hardy truck.
Chris Geiger's Rig - There is a picture of Chris' truck on the Readers' Ride page. This link will show more of what he is up to with his truck.
The Off-road Sportsman Association - This site has information on the Off-Road Sportsman Association. They are based out of Atlanta, GA, and sponsor trail rides and off-road competitions. If you want to join like minded folks on the trails, this site has information on how to participate as well as events coverage.
Camp Off-Road - This site has details on their programs. It is similar to Camp Jeep, but is open to all off-road vehicles. More information on the program can be found at this link.
Steve Guiney's Home Page Some nice pictures of his truck.
Element Racing This is a link to an off-road club that is open to anyone but is mostly Toyota 4x4's.
Jay's Toyota Web Page - This is Jay Kopycinski's personal web page. Nice photos of his 4x4 along with great Toyota information.
The Official Minnesota Toyx4 Home Page - More great Toyota 4x4 photos from Minnesota and the home of Minnesota's only Toyota only off-road association.
Chips 1997 Toyota Tacoma - Chip Linthicum displays his '97 Tacoma in action in and around the Arizona desert.
United 4Wheel Drive Association - This site has a wealth of information on off-road clubs and organizations across the US and Canada. This is a good place to visit to find a local off-road club in your area.
Robert Bentley Publishers - This link will take you to Robert Bentley Publishing. Here you can get information on and purchase a copy of Moses Ludell's book, "Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser Owner's Bible." A great resource for every Toyota Owner as reviewed in our August 1997, issue.
Off-road.com - another good source of Toyota 4x4 information.

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BRODY’s Personal Favorites:

http://www.wildyoats.com/

http://www.4x4wire.com/

http://www.andrewzook.com/

http://www.brian894x4.com/

http://yotatech.com/

http://www.bc4x4.com/

Here is a very brief description of a very simple rotor change. Though these are Toyota rotors, the same principles apply to pretty much all FRONT wheel rotors on 4x4s. Rear rotors usually require the pressing on and off of the axle bearing in order to change the rotors. After the bearing is pressed off, again all the same principles apply.

The rotors are captured with the wheel lug nuts, These must be either hammered out or pressed out. Many rotors, such as the Toyota rotors, have additional bolts through the back side.

Remove the rotor and hub assembly from the vehicle. Hose the lug bolts and retaining bolts down with a rust buster such as PB Blaster. If you do not have a bearing press and use the BFH approach, locate some junk lug nuts and run these onto the lugs to protect the threads (this is the same thing you would do if you have broken and need to replace the broken lugs, BTW). Set the rotor on a couple of blocks of wood. Sharply hit the lug nuts, driving them out the back side. If you are lucky, these will now come out with one good swat of the hammer. Do not expect them to come out easily though as these are a very tight fit.

Once the retaining bolts are removed and the lug bolts are loose, use a pair of vice grips on the back side of the studs and remove the lug nuts from the other side. Your rotor is now ready to be replaced with a new or reconditioned rotor. Assembly of the new rotor is the reverse order. If you are using brand new lug bolts, expect to have to do some serious hammering. You will have to do some serious hammering of the old bolts too. The new ones just require more. A big drift punch is a real help as there isn't a lot of room and you have to hit these pretty square. Make sure they are solidly seated....in other words, hit them about 2-3 times more once they 'look good'.

Attached Images

Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS

Almost all of your Toyota questions can be answered by going to the Pirate4x4.com TOYOTA FAQ. Please go here first as it is probably the most comprehensive source of Toyota information to be found anywhere on the internet.

Official Pirate Toyota FAQ:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180

Oil Capacity Charts:

Oil capacity for most Toyota Engine with and without draining the filter:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=80

Testing the ECM and Ignitor. Ignition and coil test information:

#1:

Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota

Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.

Symptom: No Start.

Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.

The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.

Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal

Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.

The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.

#2:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...5/contents.htm

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/systemci.pdf

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/onvehicl.pdf

What sensors are involved?? do you have fuel pressure??

I have a 99 5vz and these use cam crank sensors for the timing not too familiar with 3vz

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/descript.pdf

IGNITER
The igniter temporarily interrupts the primary current with the ignition signal (lGT signal) from the
ECM and generates sparks at the spark plug. Also, as a fail–safe measure, when ignition occurs an
ignition confirmation signal (lGF signal) is sent to the ECM.
" I know that on my truck that this can create alot of issues!! you probably need to look further in to your distributor or replace the igniter then if it still does not work then look at the distributor""I know not what you wanted to read!!" any one of the three coils mentioned here could cause this issue!! I believe that is why they went to cam and crank sensors at the cam and crank along with totally removing the distributor.

PICKUP COILS
The NE coil detects the crankshaft position, and the G 1 and G2 coils detect the camshaft position.

#3:

ECM check
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...yste/engin.pdf

check resistance of spark wires and the rest of distributor.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/services.pdf

this one is just fun to see
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/descript.pdf

you should use this one along with the ECM check and a multimeter set to acV to check the pick up coils are sending a signal to the ECM!
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/operatio.pdf

TOYOTA REAR AXLE BEARING AND SEAL REPLACEMENT LINKS:

Toyota pinion seal replacement:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ionSeal/8.html

Bearing/seal replacement:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...wheel_bearing/

FJ60 DIY information link:

http://www.everythingfj60.com/2FMaintSched.html

BTW, this link is nowhere as good as the name implies, but there is some useful information to be had on this site. You just have to grind your way though it to find it. I stuck it on here more for the nice maintenance schedule information rather than anything else.

FJ60 Master cylinder upgrade using Toyota parts:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...astercylinder/

Whereas this link describes replacing the FJ60 brake master cylinder with a larger bore Toyota V6 master, it is also applicable for all previous years of Toyotas with smaller master cylinders. This is a very good, easily accomplished, upgrade even for those not really mechanically inclined as all the parts are basic bolt ons and easily available. The biggest thing if you haven't done this before, is to 'bench bleed' the new master , making bleeding the brakes afterward relatively simple. If you are running bigger tires and have the small master cylinder, you will find that this upgrade makes a difference.

There are other links in this section explaining how you can adapt an even larger Chevy/GMC master cylinder to the Toyota, but this involves a little more than a simple 'bolt on'.

From Haku:

New Toyota axle upgrade items:

Hey guys,

Both Trail Gear and Longfield have come out with a couple of cool new items to make axle knuckle maintenance a less frequent occurance.

First off from Longfield, are these neat "felt elminator" or "wiper seal" rings, which replace the 3 piece knuckle ball wiper seal that come in most knuckle rebuild kits.

They are made from UHMW, and do a much much better job of sealing the back side of the knuckle. They are a "lifetime use" item, or as they put it on the site, "the last wiper seal you will ever need". They work on both Mini-truck and Cruiser axles too.

Its not up on their website yet (found em on Pirate), but I imagine if you call or email they can hook you up. They are retailing for $35 plus shipping. The one thing that sucks is that Longfield doesn't offer anything like a Knuckle Rebuild kit that I know of, so you still have to purchase a kit that has the stock style felts included.

Next up, this time from Trail Gear, is the new "Trunion Bearing Eliminator Kit". One of the most common failures on the knuckles of Toyota axles (and probably others too) are the Trunnion bearings. Bigger tires, high stress stearing, hydro steering and all that seem to tear them up and its a common, and "trail stopping" failure. Essentially these replace the trunnion bearing with a two sided race, with grease delivery slots put into them. They have Zirk fittings attached for regular greasing, so it shouldn't effect the ease of turning, or such. Its essentially what a Kingpin style knuckle uses. Makes it bomber. Here is a pic, and a link. Kit comes with a full knuckle rebuild kit too, and retails for $199. The Knuckle rebuild kits are $75, so thats $125 for the rest of it. Not a bad price at all, considering that Trunion bearings themselves are probably $20 each or something. Pics and a link



http://www.trail-gear.com/trunnion-b...nator-kit.html

Thought that Toyota guys would dig both of these items, as they look like they'll make a big difference.

Its worth looking at the comp grade trunnion/knuckle bearing upgrade from Marlin Crawler too.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/steerin...ade-kit-w-arms

or the not as good but half the price baby version

http://www.marlincrawler.com/steerin...in-upgrade-kit

Alternately, no one has said a bad thing about the UHMW wiper seal. Just to give you an idea of how well these seal, Longfield said they filled an axle with water and held it on end, and didn't see a single drop come out, so it definitely does the job. Will certainly be getting a set of them when I rebuild my axle.

JH

1995 Toyota Tacoma Factory Service Manual Scans:

http://www.lieblweb.com/tacomadiagrams.html

Toyota Tacoma Steering Rack Bushing Replacement:

Toyota Tacoma
STEERING RACK BUSHING REPLACEMENT

Vehicle Information: 1996 Toyota Tacoma
These are basic instructions on how to replace the stock steering rack mount bushings. Use this information AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Troubleshooting: I was experiencing some 'rubbing' or 'shuddering' sounds at tight turns. With stock tires and 1.5" of lift, I knew I wasn't rubbing on anything. One day I decided to lift up the front end of the vehicle and take a look. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary at first. I proceeded to grab a wheel and move it side to side. I noticed the entire steering rack was moving back and forth. I took a closer look and saw some wear marks (clean metal) on the outer edges of the passenger side rack bushing. At that time, I knew exactly what I had to do - replace the bushings that help support the rack in place. You can order Energy Suspension Rack & Pinion Bushing Set Part # 8-10101 from Suspension Restoration Parts Co. for $13.00 (click link for ordering information) -also available from other retailers.
SAFETY FIRST



* Place the vehicle on a level surface, put the parking brake on and make sure the vehicle is in gear.
* Jack up the front of the vehicle (both sides at the same time) using a hydraulic jack (or other lifting device) on the center of the cross member. If you look at your skid plate, you can see a rounded indentation where the jacking point is. Support the vehicle with jack stands on the frame at both sides. Make sure the front wheels are off the ground.

REMOVAL

*

Remove the rear portion of the skid plate.

REMOVAL

* Disconnect the sway bar at both sides.


Description: Below you will see a picture of the power steering rack. This picture will show you the mounting points AND the places where the bushings are to be replaced.




Drivers Side Mount


This mount is a LONG bolt (about 10 inches) that goes through the rack and through the cross member. You'll see the head of the bolt on the other side of the cross member. We used 1/2" ratchet with 22mm socket and a long pipe for leverage. These things are TIGHT. Start off by getting this bolt loose - DO NOT REMOVE YET!

NOTE: The oily looking liquid on the bolt is PB Blaster. We highly recommend this penetrating spray!


Central Mount

This mount is one single bolt that goes in through the top. This is the most difficult bolt to get out because of the clearance at the bolt head. Size is 19mm. Start off by getting this bolt loose - DO NOT REMOVE YET!


Passenger Side Mount


At the top is a stud welded to the cross member - you remove the nut. At the bottom is a bolt threaded into a nut that is welded on the cross member. The outer 'saddle' bracket (grommet) comes off completely. Size 19mm. Start off by getting this bolt loose - DO NOT REMOVE YET!

Safety:
We used 2 straps wrapped loosely around the steering rack and up on the upper a-arms for safety purposes.
Removing Hardware:
After you've managed to get all the bolts lose - start removing all the mounting hardware. *SAVE EVERYTHING!
Muscles, Muscles Muscles......

After removing all the hardware, you have a steering rack that is almost dangling there and can be shifted in any direction (almost). The next few steps are the tricky parts......
Passenger Side Bushing
Remove the passenger side bracket and old bushing. Remember the orientation of the bracket for when you re-install.
Shifting Rack

At this time - You will begin to shift the rack in various directions. Be careful when shifting the rack - Watch to make sure you do not kink or harm any fluid lines or parts.

Central Mount Bushing


Have a friend help you with this - While you are underneath the rack/truck, have a friend move the wheels in and out (both sides). This will cause the entire rack to move. Keep moving the wheels and shifting the rack towards the back of the truck. Continue to shift the rack until this mount pops out of its position.

The old bushings have a metal sleeve in them. Place a socket (same diameter as the metal sleeve) up against the underside of the sleeve and strike the socket with a hammer. This will pound out the old bushing. The picture to the left - old bushing has already been removed. Clean the bushing surfaces before applying the new bushings.

Central Mount Bushing


Take notice to the old bushing - there is a metal washer on the inside next to the cross member. This metal washer and the metal sleeve in the bushing are all one piece. Using the same method as you used for the central bushing, pound this bushing out but towards the cross member. You may need to muscle/shift the steering rack in order to get the old bushing completely out.
Installation of Central Bushing

In the bushing kit - you'll see a pair of short round bushings and a metal sleeve that goes with them. This metal sleeve is not the right size to accommodate the stock hardware. You will need to drill (or mill) the center of the metal sleeve with a 9/16" drill bit or mill. You should be able to slide the stock bolt inside the metal sleeve easily.

After drilling the metal sleeve, install both halves of the bushing and pound or press the metal sleeve in. Make sure the metal sleeve is flush or slightly below the level of the new bushing.
Installation of the Drivers Side Bushing

Next, you'll find a pair of round bushings and another metal sleeve. This sleeve should be the right size to accommodate the LONG bolt. The kit also supplies a new washer.

Install both halves of the bushings in the rack. Pound or press the metal sleeve inside the bushing.
Installation of the Passenger Side Bushing
This bushing is self explanatory and the easiest to install.
Getting it all back together....
The first thing you want to do is shift the rack (like before) to get the central bushing mount back up and in its mounting point. Don't worry about getting the bolt holes lined up. All you need to do is get it up and inside that shelf slightly.
Next....
The Passenger side bracket can be put in place over the new bushing. Attach the nut and bolt but do not tighten too much.
Then.....

Slide the LONG bolt through the cross member - place a washer (either old or new) in between the cross member and the rack - push the LONG bolt through the rack (and washer) entirely. If you're really lucky, you'll have enough bolt coming through to add the last washer and attach the nut by a few threads.

Begin tightening this nut.... This will help PULL the rack in place and help line up the holes on the central mount. As the nut is harder to tighten, alternate between the passenger side mount and drivers side mount tightening each bolt/nut tighter each time. YES - the drivers side bushing will squeeze out of its normal shape.
Finally.....

Keep checking to see if the central mount holes are lined up - and slide the bolt through it. When all hardware is attached, torque to Toyota required specifications:

Passenger Side Mount bolts 123 ft lbs
Central Mount 123 ft lbs
Drivers Side Mount 141 ft lbs
Clean Up...
Install your skid plate back on, lower the vehicle, and clean up all your tools. GREAT JOB!!

Here is the link:

http://www.lieblweb.com/steeringbush.html

Toyota 3.4L (5VZ-FE) OBDII Codes:

http://www.trdoffroad.com/articles/pdf/dtcc.pdf

Toyota CV Axle Replacement

Although these link deal with various generations of 4Runners, FJCs, Tacomas, etc., basically all the same principles apply to all the makes and models with very slight differences.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

CV Axle Trail Fix:

http://www.4wdtrips.net/forum/showth...xles-Trail-Fix

DOVETAILING YOUR BED:

Since I recently have been asked about dovetailing beds, I decided i would post all of the links to the best write ups that I have found. since this information applies to all makes and models as the principles used are the same, I have also posted the same information in the Tech how To section. Here they are:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ight=dove+tail

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347219

http://www.yotatech.com/f198/lives4c...thread-210313/

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159072

http://rebelchapter4x4.com/forums/vi...php?f=20&t=177

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=9238

Toyota Tundra Big Brake Swap:

Thinking that your older Yota doesn't stop as quickly as it should with big meats? Here are links to swapping in the much bigger 199mm or 231mm Tundra(or Sequoia) rotors and calipers. And yes, it is a relatively simple bolt on with only some minor dust shield modifications to do if you still have the dust shields.

Keep in mind that Tundras had two generations of brakes, the 199mm and 231mm, so pay attention to what year provided what brake size:

There are two calipers from the first-generation Tundra that will bolt up to the gen-three (1996-02) 4Runner. Both do a much better job hauling 3900 lbs. of 4Runner to a stop, including the original 199mm Tundra caliper. The 199 was deemed insufficient to suitably slow the early Tundras (prone to fade and warpage – sound familiar?). A service bulletin (back-door recall) was issued for Tundras made through 2002, and lots of 199mm calipers were swapped for a larger, beefier and heavier 231mm unit that was OEM on later 2002 Tundras (as part of the mid-model redesign). To Toyota’s credit, the new 231mm caliper and pad combo worked much better.

You can source these new from most auto stores or from junkyards. Rotors and calipers from an auto store, plus new pads will be in the neighborhood of $300. The same set up used from a junkyard will run under $100. The swap will increase your stopping power about 30-40%, not bad for a factory bolt on....

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/01-tundra...runner-146160/

http://www.4wdtrips.net/forum/showth...-96-02-4Runner

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/p...oject1620.html

FJ55/FJ60/FJ62 Grounding wire problems:

Do your gauges spike? The answer is discussed on this thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175285

Do you intermittent fuel related problems? Here is the possible solution:

In the driver's side rear quarter panel is a group of wires. Water and mud get into here and cause corrosion, shorting out the ground to the fuel pump making fuel delivery intermittent. 90% of the time, a "fuel pump problem" can be traced back to a bad ground wire in this cluster. Access the wires, and clean or replace the wires/connectors as needed.

As an aside: The fuel pump is on the top of the tank, so replacing the fuel pump or accessing the wires that go to the top of the fuel pump, require you to drop the gas tank. As simple solution, of which I have a done a few of, including my heap, is to locate the fuel pump, make some measurements and cut an access panel that can be easily removed with some screws. This allows you to remove, replace, or repair your fuel pump without the attendant BS associated with draining and dropping the fuel tank.

All that is involved with this is to carefully locate the fuel pump on top of the tank, locate the structural members on the bed, and cut a panel out of the flooring, being very careful not to cut into the tank. A piece of thin metal or plywood forced into the gap between the top of the tank and body will do this. Having some sort of body lift makes this easier. Using a grinder with a cut off blade is way better than using a sazall.

Once you have the panel cut out, install some bars or bracing under the cut out panel that will allow you to reinstall the panel. Keep in mind that the top of the fuel tank/fuel pump mount is a round circle about the diameter of a one pound coffee can, so you have the make the panel big enough for this and wide enough to get your hands in to work. On the ones that I have done, I measured between the bracing, then using this dimension for the length, measured roughly 10" for the width. Oh...you might want to dress up the cut edges you you don't end up leaking all over the place when you work on this....