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Thread: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS

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    Toyota Front Straight Axle Trunion Cross Over Bearings Numbers/Toyota Front Axle Part Numbers. Almost all of this information is located in the link to Pirate4x4 Toyota FAQ:


    Trunion/Kingpin/Knuckle bearing part numbers, 79-85 front axle:
    Toyota #90366-17001-77
    KOYO 30303D
    SKF part# 30303j2

    Birfield outer snap ring - 90520-28036
    Birfield inner snap ring - 90520-27091
    Outer axle snap ring - 90520-31001
    54mm nut - 43521-60011
    front axle thrust washer - 90214-42030
    front axle lock washer - 90215-42025
    front wheel bearing seal - 90313-93011
    front wheel bearings/races :
    - - Timken / Federal Mogul / BCA
    Front wheel outer - LM102949 & LM102910
    Front wheel inner - JLM104948 & JLM104910
    Knuckle bearing/race set - SKF 30303J2
    front inner (axle) seal – Timken/BCA/FM – 710070, CR – 12810, Toyota – 90311-33085
    front outer (hub) seal - Timken 226285
    brass spindle bushings - 90999-70067
    Complete knuckle wiper kit including: outer retainers , felt, rubber and Cadium plated scraper seal.
    Toyota - 43204-60020, $28.83 as of 03 May 04 for one side of a knuckle for a solid axle.

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    POWER STEERING REBUILDING AND MODIFYING LINKS:

    Here are some links that apply to rebuilding and /or modifying your power steering on Toyotas:

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=588900

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt..hreadid=167299

    http://www.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10579.0

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=571624

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=630765

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579700

    How to replace Power Steering Fluid:

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...-pictures.html

    Source for oversize PS reservoirs:

    http://www.speedwaymotors.com

    Power Steering information site:

    http://www.4wheeldrive.about.com/od/...D_Vehicles.htm

    Toyota 3.0L Power Steering Pump Rebuild:

    http://members.cox.net/stacewilliams/ps-pump.html

    Toyota Power Steering Systems

    http://www.4wheeldriveabout.about.co...o/toysteer.htm

    Last edited by Brody; April 10th, 2008 at 07:57 AM.

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    Default Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS



    Bigger fuel tanks for Toyotas:


    Here is an 18 gallon F 150 swap link:

    http://www.toyota-4runner.org/off-ro...xle-print.html

    NOS Blazer 26 gallon diesel tank swap:

    http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...tml#post563227

    Very detailed write up on a NWMP tank install with wiring and pump relay info:

    http://www.yotatech.com/f123/aux-fue...ansfer-218625/

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    Default Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS



    PROPORTIONING VALVE AND LINE LOCK INFORMATION LINKS:

    Electric Line Lock Install Details & Pics Please

    1988 4runner wilwood proportioning valve install - YotaTech Forums

    By popular demand: proportioning valve install without brake line flaring

    Project Tacoma Removing Toyota LSPV Load Sensing Proportioning Valve : Off-Road.com

    4x4Wire's TrailTalk Forums: Nightmare brakes!

    Stock LSPV Removal

    4x4Wire's TrailTalk Forums: Nightmare brakes!

    Wilwood rear brake proportioning valve and 1" bore master cylinder install - YotaTech Forums

    eliminate load sensing proportioning valve? - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums

    TTORA Forum - View Single Post - NorCalPR's leaf sprung SAS w/flipped Toy front

    Please note: The last link describes some cutting and welding to get two right angle 10mm brake fitting. You can bypass a bit of this by scrounging up the frame fitting from an older FJ60/62. It is located on the exact same spot on the frame rail(passenger side) accepts the standard 10mm Yota brake fittings, and has two 90 degree fitting pre welded from the factory.

    You can also weld shut or source a 10mm block off plug for the front "T" fitting rather than use a 90 degree fitting. Either works.

    You can remove or leave in place the brake return line from the LSPV.

    Words of caution: Do not try this is you aren't familiar with a flaring tool, dealing with reluctant brake fittings, or do not have a line wrench and patience. Chances are good (contrary to what some of the links suggest) that you will end up stripping out a brake fitting, or find one that is already stripped. Acquire some extra 3/16' or metric brake line before you start, whether from a parts store or the junkyard. Get some extra fittings and/or some short lengths of pre made line with the fittings already on it. Keep in mind that almost all of the metric brake fittings that you will use are the ones with the long "nose" and not the little stubby ones.

    Grab a cheapo one man brake bleeder tools and some vacuum caps that will cap the ends of the brake lines. Grab extra brake cleaner. By the time you are finished with installing either the line lock or replacing the LSPV, you will, more than likely, have all new brake fluid in your lines.

    Out of all the links, here are the pictures that are the best help in my opinion:
            

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    Toyota Brake Caliper Rebuild:

    Deciding to not spend the big bucks to replace some aging brake calipers or replace them with rebuilt units? The rebuild kits are $10 at most auto stores and this link shows you how to do it, saving you some big $$. It shows front and rear caliper rebuilds and is rated a 1-2 banana job. In other words, simple hand tools and common mechanical sense will allow you to do it.:

    Brake Caliper Rebuild

    Here is a basic brake caliper rebuild video:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HdFdmueLsA

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    Toyota Brake Bleeding.

    although this is a Jeep article, the same principles and order apply:

    http://www.offroaders.com/tech/jeep-...m-Bleeding.htm

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    Default Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS



    FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOADS:

    Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page

    Thanks to TTORA.com!

    May be a duplicate post....

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    Default Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS



    TOYOTA CAR STEREO WIRING DIAGRAM LINKS:

    I have a 1994 CD player in my heap that the face plate finally gave up the ghost on. Since I am R&Ring a 2009 Tacoma that had a cracked 6 disc player, which I replaced, I decided I would install the cracked unit into my heap to replace the one that no longer worked. Here are the links I found that will help me sort out the wiring and installation.

    Toyota wiring diagrams for CD players/changers:

    2008 Toyota Tacoma Car Radio Wiring Instructions

    http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-rad...-Connector.htm

    Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page

    http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf

    Factory Installed Toyata 6 disk CD Changer - Toyota RAV4 Forums : RAV4World.com

    Pinout for Toyota CD Changers

    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...rd/Toyota.html

    How to install a head unit in a 2005-2010 Toyota Tacoma

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    Default Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS



    TRD SUPER CHARGER INFORMATION LINKS: REBUILDING NOSE CONE, REBUILD LINKS, OIL CHANGE:

    Links:

    Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Eaton M90 Supercharger Oil Change Picture Illustrated Guide

    I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd - Page 5 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

    http://www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/pr...dproduct=-8080

    Eaton snout rebuild

    Rolling Performance

    Replacing front nose seal/bearings on Gen 2 TRD supercharger 3.4L - TTORA Forum

    3.4L Super Charger contact information

    I just purchased a TRD supercharger for my 2.7.

    I needed to get the rotors recoated and the unit rebuilt.

    While I've already come to a conclusion with LC Engineering and Magnuson to have my unit remanufactured, I did have a weird experience with PSE Superchargers.

    Ed Martinez, the owner of PSE, was very... interesting. He told me that my supercharger rotors were actually coated in what's similar to spray paint, not a teflon coat. He then said that I would hardly lose any boost without said coating. He had me going for a bit... then he told me to contact Steve Millen of Stillen Performance.

    A good 20 minutes speaking with Stillen... wow. They not only disagreed with everything said by PSE, but then actually mentioned that they'd never even heard of them. I was a little shocked... but it was sort of expected.

    Anyway, long story short, I contacted LC Engineering, who know manufactures my supercharger model, who said that Magnuson will do my rebuild for the low price of $300, including all new bearings, seals, etc. They also offer a 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty on their reman's.

    normally, the do not do recoating and require that they replace the actual rotors ($700!). Thanks to LCE, they have gone up to bat for me and Magnuson will have my existing rotors recoated.

    Talk about win... PSE kind of scares me, though, Ed told me that everyone I've asked about these units was dumb, though I've spoken to even the manufacturer of the units. It makes me really wary of how a company can have such a reputation... must be for Domestic blowers.

    I'm finding myself in the shoes of a black TRD rebuild as well. FYI the sc is a M62 unit. I have contacted several places including Magnuson, PSE, Embree Specialty Machine, Stiegemeir, John Bond Performance and only 3 have responded so far.
    Magnuson quoted me $1000 bucks for a rebuild and say they replace the rotors and not repair them.

    PSE did not appease me at all. They are as of today 4/10/2012 3 weeks out. It would take more than a month for me to get my sc back and would cost too much. But good news! for an extra $100 a week that they are out they will bump your sc in line to get fixed. So an extra 300 for it to get fixed in the same week they get it. No thanks

    Embree Specialty Machine quoted me 500 and some change for a full rebuild. But as I have a new nose cone kit with couple they'd knock down the price and for an extra 100 would recoat the rotors for me. I was also amazed at how much they know about our TRD units and told me it would take about 17 days for a full there and back trip. I feel most confident in them and will most likely send my sc there.

    Stiegmeir and John Bond Performace have not responded to emails and messages

    Not sure if you have seen this yet, but I found some pics of a gen2 nose getting rebuilt. Looks pretty simple.

    If I can find the correct bearings and part numbers I will probably do my gen1 later this summer.


    Replacing front nose seal/bearings on Gen 2 TRD supercharger 3.4L - TTORA Forum

    Hey all, just wanted to post an FYI for anybody going through the same hell that I endured for the last two months:

    After replacing my 3.4L supercharger (with 200k miles on it) with a new 2nd-gen model and URD 7th injector kit with 2.2" pulley, the truck was running like crap.

    Basically, the truck's acceleration was hesitant and rough. It would do fine until the supercharger started really kicking in (around 2600 to 3000 rpm), then would cut out and barely rev. But the biggest problem was a lean backfire that occurred when downshifting.

    While cruising along at ~40 mph, if I stepped on it, and the tranny downshifted, it would cough and sputter and backfire. I THREW 3 ALTERNATOR BELTS THIS WAY!!! I ended up spending a small fortune troubleshooting the problem with a local tuning shop (btw, Gadget at URD did his best, too).

    Long story short (actually, a VERY long story), I chased down the part number for the IAC (Idle Air Control) check valve -- that wasn't provided with my s/c kit -- and installed it out of sheer desperation.

    $5.99 (plus tax) and 3 minutes later, the problem was cured. AMAZING. Truck runs like a champ. I wish I would've known about it when I first installed the kit!!!

    For anyone encountering this issue with a 3.4L TRD supercharger, here's the new Toyota part number for a 1-way IAC check valve (since the TRD part number won't work anymore and the idiots at dealerships won't help you find it):

    PTR26-35042

    Install it. The directions say you don't need to for certain models, but install it anyway (when installed correctly, valve should block air from entering the throttle body).

    Anyway, I really hope this helps someone down the line!!!

    Thanks TJLong, I was just making sure, because ^^^^^^ threw me off. I thought the question was "Who has run a s/c w/o fuel mods?"

    I'd love to contribute something useful, but my truck came with the S/C and the TRD 7th when I bought it, all installed by Toyota for the orig. owner on day 1 when they took delivery of the vehicle. I picked up the URD 7th upgrade kit that basically converts the TRD 7th into the URD 7th kit, along with the 2.2 pulley to wring out a little more power.

    If it helps at all, the elevation where I'm at is 5500 to 5800 feet, and I haven't experienced one instance of ping since I bought the truck running with the 7th. I'll create another thread with some install info and pics once I get around to putting in the URD 7th upgrade kit.

    Edit >>>>>

    Also, Nacho, don't mean to bust your chops man I just wanted to remind you that it wasn't your thread in the first place and just keep your cool man, you'll get help.

    Here's a link for the complete installation instructions for the TRD supercharger, I would think that if you worked through these in reverse from finish to start, it'd give you a pretty good idea of the reversal process....

    Link >>> 404 Not Found

    OR >>> 404 Not Found

    And the install manual for the TRD 7th, if you're curious >>> http://www.customtacos.com/tech/files/7th_injector.pdf

    And here's some good links that you should probably spend some time reading since the S/C is already on your truck and you obviously have alot of questions:

    Speedy's S/C thread... tons of info from one of the pioneers of running the TRD S/C... from start to finish, all the questions and answers....

    !!Speedy's Supercharger Thread!! - YotaTech Forums

    Info on the transmission upgrade from IPT

    Toyota A340 Series Modified Valve Body

    Valve Body Upgrade for Supercharger? - YotaTech Forums

    Another good thread w/general info:

    New V6 SR5 w/dealer installed supercharger Questions - YotaTech Forums

    Ultimate Yota S/C wiki:

    UltimateYota.com

    Gadget's page... this guy is also the owner of URD, call him, he'll talk to you all about the S/C and he knows his stuff, find the contact info on URD's website...

    Gadget's 4Runner

    Links to writeups on nose cone oil changes, nose drive servicing, and several other important maint. items....

    CustomTacos.com Tech Knowledgebase - 1995.5-2004

    And finally a good source for oil change, and nose cone rebuild parts...

    Rolling Performance Home

    That should keep you busy for awhile and answer alot of your questions. Hope this helps you out... take your time with it, there's alot to know. And if I were you I would not sell it. You'll be taking a major loss and with a little time, money, and effort you can get it running right and have a 4runner that's much more fun to drive.

    And last but not least, I changed the oil in the supercharger's nose cone. A WORD OF CAUTION TO ANYONE WHO BUYS A 4-RUNNER WITH A SUPERCHARGER ALREADY INSTALLED: CHECK THE OIL IN THE NOSE CONE ASAP!!!!!

    I had an inkling that mine needed attention because when I asked the prior owner about it he said he'd never changed it, never topped it off... basically never paid any attention to it. I did some searching and found a few useful threads:

    supercharger oil change - my experience - YotaTech Forums

    Paul's Travel Pictures - Digital Pictures, Information & Reviews From My Trips & Adventures

    and a good source for nose cone rebuild parts >>>> Rolling Performance Home

    I went to Walgreens and bought one of these:



    Then to O'rielly's Auto Parts and found some of this:



    Got it setup like this:



    Went in through this hole (the one with the little orange dot on it... that's a 3/16" hex key to open that plug by the way)



    And sucked out this much oil... That's a 4 oz. rubbermaid container which is 118 ml, which is the same amount of oil that comes in a bottle of GM supercharger oil. As you can see, my supercharger only had about 60 ml of oil in it (also assume there was prob. up to 20 ml that I couldn't suck out with the syringe). Not good. So #1, it was low, and #2, that oil has to be going somewhere. I put a flashlight under the container to examine the fluid for any metal shavings or suspended particles and there were none, which leads me to beleive the gears, coupler, and bearing are still in good shape. I'll have to keep an eye on it in the future and see if the nose cone is leaking. Also note that fresh supercharger oil is clear, and the fluid I pulled out was dark and I would assume burnt. This oil change was long overdue.



    I used the outer (clear) part of the syringe and the same peice of clear tubing as a small funnel to pour back into the supercharger a full bottle of this ($11/bottle at the local GM dealership):



    The S/C took the whole bottle of fresh GM oil before it started to leak out of the fill hole (from the research I've done you're supposed to fill it the same way you would a differential, until it begins to leak out of the fill hole). I closed it up, wiped it off, and now I feel alot better about my supercharger being a happy supercharger.
    __________________

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    Default Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS



    GM CS 144 alternator onto a Toyota 3.4L:

    HO alternator/Dual Battery/Battery Separator/"Big 3 Upgrade - Tacoma World Forums

    Wiring Diagram for the SC-144 into Toyota harness is found on this site:

    No Front Plastic/Valence...What Ya Think? - Toyota 4Runner Forum

    And more wiring information here:

    A few pics of the GM CS130 alternator install - Pirate4x4.Com

    A bit more here:

    Hi-amp alternator for 3.0 V-6 - Pirate4x4.Com

    Note (PB): Keep in mind that this alternator is standard issue for a huge number of GM vehicles, including Caddies, pickups and Burbs with the V8s. The pigtails you can junkyard range from a single wire to a 3 wire and cost almost nothing. Get the one with the most wires and simple use what you actually need. Also keep in mind that the GM alternator is case grounded (IE: there is a separate ground wire run from the GM case mounting bolt to the engine block) and it probably would not be a bad idea to do the same for the Yota install. It sure won't hurt anything.

    This is a high power alternator upgrade for your Toyota 3.4L. The base model is a 120 amp, almost doubles the stock Yota one, and you can get up to a 250 amp version. It is, aside from some wiring, almost a bolt in as the mounting bolt locations are almost identical.

    This is the older alternator that the CS 130/140, etc, supercedes going into an older 22RE Toyota rig. The wiring is very similar, only the actual connector plug and pulley is different:

    http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.co...%20Project.pdf

    And a couple more. NOTE: These describe the alternator going onto different Yota engines, so look at what it is going into:

    Installing a GM CS144 alternator on a 2/3RZ - CustomTacos.com Forum

    Delco CS-144 Alternator Installed - Pics

    Land Cruiser Dual Alternator parts/source:

    High Output Dual Alternator Bracket Kit for Uparmored Armored Vehicle Power Toyota Prado

    Should you need to purchase the pigtail adapter from somewhere other than a junkyard, Advanced Auto has the BWD PT200 adapters usually in stock:
         

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    Toyota Sagging Rear End Fix:

    I first heard about this from Jeff(Patrolman). Simple, cheap and functional junkyard parts fix to fix the butt sagging that older Toyotas seem to acquire after time. The stock Jeep TJ coils simply go over the existing rear Yota bumpstops and both eliminate the sag and increase the load carrying capabilities. I don't know quite what the guy was doing in the picture as he has a couple of set ups going on, but the concept is the same. The photo with just the red spring is more like it...One of those simple and cheap junk yard fixes. Another version of the same concept, also for a Toyota with the same sagging rear end issue, is to use a center coil:
           

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    ABS, TRAC, VSC and Check Engine Light On..Mostly newer (late 90s and up) 4Runners, Tacos, Tundras, FJCs

    Variety of causes, some surprising, some simple, but all guaranteed to give you a PITA:

    3rd Gen ABS Front Wheel Speed Sensor Test and Replacment - Toyota 4Runner Forum

    4Runner Speed Sensor - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

    VSC, TRAC, and Check engine lights on - Toyota 4Runner Forum

    The last one is interesting in that the rear O2 sensor, if it is faulty or dirty, will throw a code triggering the lights AND disabling the traction stuff.

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    Dealing with this, hope mine is the simple fix...
    ___________
    Chris in Florida

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    Default Re: TOYOYA INFORMATION AND LINKS



    Tacoma upper ball joint replacement trick. I was able to easily remove the ball joints, but getting the new one in was a PITA until I found the truck to use a pitman arm puller and trim it just a bit. New one went in smooth in about 10 mins.

    http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182676

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