You both are welcome to lend a hand over here, I've got my 2 year old and 4 day old since my daughter has an infection and her husband had to take her to the hospital. :(
Yeah, they're both asleep. :2thumbs:
You both are welcome to lend a hand over here, I've got my 2 year old and 4 day old since my daughter has an infection and her husband had to take her to the hospital. :(
Yeah, they're both asleep. :2thumbs:
___________
Chris in Florida
And if I was over there too, they would be hurling bodily fluids over me, Scout Man, your house, driveway, garage.....and screaming.....
Thanks, but....
Updates: The spring over is starting on Friday, then I can finally get the 35's out of my garage and onto the scout! Went wheeling today, and decided I really really need the extra clearance. Josh will be throwing up some pics from today, and you will see me high-centered a few times on moab hill in illinois gulch (made it tho!).
On the drive back today with a really bad sleet storm around us, my idle suddenly increased significantly - to the point that I had a really hard time stopping in gear, and I could idle down the road at 30-40 mph without touching the accelerator! Figured out it is because of a plastic lever that slides in between the idle screw and its fully closed position. I think this may be my autochoke??? It has never worked since I owned the thing and now it doesnt seem to want to turn off. anyways, will have to dig into after the snow has stopped. I have to take the air filter housing off to really get my fingers in there and didnt want all the snow falling into the carb. Hopefully its just a spring that fell off. Any thoughts?? Maybe Ill try to snap a pic of the part I am refering to and throw it up here.
alright, so not sure if you can really see anything in this pic. What you are looking at in the red circle is the idle adjust screw. at the left side of the idle adjust screw there is a slightly greenish curved piece that goes down and to the left. This piece normally is in the position shown. However, for some reason all of a sudden when the throttle is opened, the piece springs upward leaving the wider section under the tip of the idle screw, therefor increasing the idle. Anyone know what this is or why it would suddenly be an issue?? If you cant tell from the pics I understand.
It is the idle adjuster for cold start. when the choke is on, the engine is cold, the plastic wheel looking thing actually holds the throtle open more so that the engine can warm quickly and not die while cold. If that is causing the problem we can do a quick adjustment on friday. it is an easy fix.
when we start our soa on our scout could you help us? i wont be for a while
I would love to you don't live that far away from me....... we are about 60 or 65 percent I am sure that scoutman will have some pics up to show. It is gonna be a big monster....
So it was a fun day yesterday. I was amazed at how much lift this added. Some pics to show it:
Before:
and After (or at least halfway through:
Good times.
JH
So I'll do a bit more detailed description of what we did yesterday. The drive down wasn't bad if a bit windy. Got to Gary's at about 10am and interupted his breakfast. After that we tore right in. Here is a before pic of the underside of the Scout:
From here we started tearing everything down. Liberal amounts of PB Blaster and some elbow grease were used. We started with the u-bolts to detach the axle from the springs. Most of them broke relatively easy, but there was quite a bit of rust so they definitely were a long time coming off. From there, we got the brake lines off the axle, detached the shocks from the lower mount, and dropped the shackles off the springs to lower them. We tried moving the axle out the side, but the clearance was just a bit to small, so we dropped the springs down so we could rotate the axle a little bit. You don't have to get the axle completely out from under the car, just from above the springs to below. Here are a few pics of these steps:
Once the axle is under the springs, you can bolt the shackles back together and get the spring back in position. Once the springs are in position you line it up and weld the new spring perches onto the axle. Steve got some new ones from 4 wheel parts, but you can grind off the stock perches and reposition them on top of the axle too. Its more work, and the new ones are only 20 bucks or so. Plus, the stock perches are a really nice place to jack from. I didn't get any pics of the perch weldling since Steve and I took my car to get his new 35 inch tires swapped onto his rims. The more I drive it, the more I realize the Subaru is a general purpose vehicle:
35" tires on the Subbie (a little girl in the tire store said " Why does that little car have such big tires being put on):
When we got back, Gary had the perches welded on, so we proceeded to get the axle attached to the springs again. We reused the u-bolts, as they were mostly in decent shape. Definitely took a while do to rust again, but they should be structurally fine. Put the brakes back together and such too. Here are some pics of the axle put back in place:
With everything bolted back on and torqued, we then found our first problem of the day. The drive shaft was too short, which is something Gary hadn't seen with his Scout. We also tried a different drive shaft that Gary had from a previous vehicle with no luck. This meant that we had to cut the driveshaft and add in a section long enough to make both ends of the DS meet up. Gary didn't have anything that would work, so Steve and I set off to find a steel pipe that would fit either inside or out.
Here began a 9 store quest that took us all over Colorado Springs to find the right pipe. We tried several steel providers, scrap yards, and finally ended up at a industrial plumbing supply house before finding something that would work. The drive shaft is a really uncommon size and led to much head scratching at most of the places. I think we ended up with a 2" plumbing nipple that had threaded ends that just barely fit inside the driveshaft. A bit of grinding should be all it needs to fit perfect. Gary is working on that today.
By the time Steve and I got back from the quest, Gary had the shock tabs fabbed up and welded onto the axle. He also had done the finishing touches on it like getting the shocks remounted (even though they are too short for offroad use, they'll at least be good enough for making it road worthy). Here is a finished pic of the axle right before we turned the Scout around to start work on the front axle:
We got the Scout turned around and started tearing into the front axle. The brakes are a bit easier since you just take the calipers off. Other then that its very similar to the rear when you take it apart. You have to disconnect the steering of course, but otherwise its just unbolting the u-bolts, shocks, and springs and then rolling the axle out from under the vehicle. Its about an hours work all told, but not hard. You do have to get the axle out from under the vehicle with this one, as it takes a lot of grinding for the front. Unlike the rear, the fronts pinion angle needs to change, so you have to grind off the welds holding the axle to the knuckles and rotate it till the pinion aims straight at the transfer case. Simple idea but hard to execute, especially executed well. How Gary explained it to us was that you took the axle out and grind the welds off till you see the seam all the way around. Then you put the axle back under the vehicle, weld the perches on and bolt the axle to the springs. This makes it so that the axle stays in place and you can then align everything and do a couple tack welds to hold it in place. You then pull the axle back out and do the finish welds.
We only got to the tear down and prep stage. Gary is planning on doing the grinding and such today, and possibly the aligning too depending on the weather. The last thing we did yesterday was grind off the spring hangers and shackle mounts, since Steve wants to go shackle reverse in the front. You essentially just move the spring hanger from the back to the front, and then the shackle mounts at the rear of the spring. This should add a tad bit of height, but more importantly puts the shackle in a more protected place. Gary had the front SR brackets from a previous project as well, so he welded that on last night too. Here are a few pics of us tearing the front apart and doing some grinding:
I won't have any pictures of the grinding process since I'm not there today, but at the very least I'll take some of the finished product. The plan is to go down tomorrow (Sunday) and finish up. Since Steve is gonna be busy for a while, he wants to go wheeling as soon as we are done tomorrow, so I'll be driving us down in the Samurai. This is a pretty slick and elegant way to do a lift and adds a ton of lift, especially with the bigger tires. Looks like some fender trimming might be needed to fit them and not hit when flexing. Steve and I will keep ya'll posted with updates for sure.
JH
Nice work! Glad that it all went together with little pain. It is certainly a cheap way to get lift and still have good soft springs! Looks like everyone pitched in for a great project.
SWEET!!! Always good to have help!
Thanks for the great build up pictures! Not only is it a good way to keep track of stuff, but I think that it s really good for letting other folks know how to do things on their rig...plus the fact that it lets people know how much work goes into stuff like this.