1988 Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 front axle and Warn hub rebuild/install:
http://www.lieblweb.com/hubinstall.html
1988 Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 front axle and Warn hub rebuild/install:
http://www.lieblweb.com/hubinstall.html
Dodge PS Box into Jeep Upgrade:
Here is the first link I found about the Dodge PS box into a Jeep.
This is a full write up with lots of pictures:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...g-box-1097652/
Same forum, different write up, more pictures and more information:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/d...ng-mod-402758/
And yet another from the same forum:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/d...box-yj-571945/
Since there is a huge mess of pictures, information, part numbers, etc on all of these threads, I think they have the necessary information to do the deed.
This link is courtesy of RidgeRunner:
Seen this before but I came across it again yesterday while I was looking for XJ alignment specs. There is a ton of links here for body, engine, electrical, drivetrain, and suspension mods and how-to's. Some of it can apply to other Jeeps as well.
http://www.lunghd.com/Off_Site_Tech.htm
WJ knuckle and brake swap and ZJ V8 steering
These are all links to upgrade your Dana 30 XJ, YJ, ZJ, and most Dana 30 axles to crossover steering using WJ knuckles and brakes. Some of the advantages are much less to no bump steer, no droop steer, better on road feel and much better brakes.
http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php
http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php
http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tierod-1.htm
From Hypoid:
WJ swap FTW:
Crossover steering.
Better angles on all the rod ends.
Bigger front brakes.
The Terraflex kit is an expensive and easy way to run better steering with the same brakes.
The V-8, ZJ tie rod is what the factory should have put on to begin with.
Larger diameter, solid, V-8 tie rod on the Jeep. Hollow, stamped steel, stock tie rod on the ground.
From CODEXJ:
Since I work at O'reilly and get discounts. I bought brand new Tie rods for V8 ZJ and have swapped them in in replacement to my XJ. The drag link is the same for both. The one that connect to the left knuckle is the main one bigger tie rod and the tie rod itself is solid steel instead of hollow sheet metal. Anyways with drag and tie rods all done it cost me about $212 which is awesome since Teraflex wants $200 for just one bar and a lot more for the full kit. I love the set up. Best part is no hard work is needed. Just change them out like a normal tie rod direct swap! It's Awesome!!!
JEEP REAR AXLE SWAP INFORMATION:
Ford 8.8":
http://www.nwjeepn.com/Axleswap.html
Dana:
http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/J...na44/index.htm
Dana 44:
http://jeeptech.com/convaxle/d44.html
General Axle Information and Sources:
http://csloffroad.com/jeepzjxjwjaxleinfo.aspx
Jeep Alignment Bible. Great information regarding Jeep aligning your Jeep and what it all means:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t936...ent_bible.html
Dana Axle Identification:
Dana specific:
http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm
A little more Dana ++:
http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml
This one might do the trick:
http://thejeep.com/shop/information.php?info_id=7
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/deabill.aspx
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm
http://www.truckporn.com/tech/axle-guide.pdf
Jeep Rear Pinion Seal Replacement.
I recently did one of these on Robyn's Jeep. The same principles pretty much apply to almost all pinion seal replacements. I had to use a breaker bar with an extension AND use a bottle jack under the end of the breaker bar (not safe, BTW, just so you know. I put a full face shield on so that it **** went flying, I wouldn't get a broken nose(again) or face full of steel) to bust the nut loose. 160 pounds of torque my ass....Anyway, once the nut was loose, everything went just fine:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/re...lacing-980818/
More Wheelbase For Your CJ5....and other leaf sprung jeeps...:
Researching getting some more wheelbase for Scrat's CJ5 led me to these link, mostly concerned with simple and cheap leaf spring swaps. A lot of useful information on various springs, what works best. outboarding the hangers, etc. etc.
CJ Frame/Wheelbase Stretch links
Here is a bit of a high dollar write up on a CJ5 with full width axles:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=401530
He ended up with something like 112"
Same article (112"), but on another forum with some added close up shots:
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=374420
Another with a MAJOR frame stretch...another high dollar bit of work:
http://rockcrawler.com/techreports/longcj/thework.htm
A 103.5" on a CJ7 which is almost the same thing. Look where they placed the front spring shackles. You have a lot of options, especially if you are doing form follows function and aren't worried about the cosmetics:
http://www.links4jeeps.com/forum/index.php?topic=4336.0
And another, this one using mostly Yota springs. Take a close look at the outboarded and angled front spring hangers. These were another couple of things that I suggested and the pictures really show the outboarding . I think he ended up with around 100"
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=685657&page=2
Another on a different model. Same deal, though and this gives some good spring lengths and center pin measurements:
http://www.universityofjeep.ca/stretching_yj.html
Jeep Axle Information:
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/bible/#JFA
Front Axles:
DANA 25
Used in 1941-1965 Jeep MB, M38, CJ2, CJ3, CJ5 & CJ6
Closed knuckle
Ring gear diameter = 7.75"
Available ratios: 4.27, 4.88, 5.38
Width: 51"
DANA 27
Used in 1966-1971 Jeep M38A1, CJ5 & CJ6
Closed knuckle
Ring gear diameter = 7.25"
Available ratios: 3.54, 3.73, 4.27, 4.88, 5.38
Width = 51"
DANA 30
Used in 1971 to present Jeep CJ5, CJ6, CJ7, CJ8, YJ (Wrangler) & TJ, and 1971-1973 Cherokee & Wagoneers
Open knuckle
Ring gear diameter = 7.25"
Available ratios = 3.07, 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.27, 4.88
Width: Narrow track CJ = 53" Wide track CJ = 56" Wrangler = 60"
Axle shaft diameter = 1 5/32"x27 spline Inner; 1 5/32"x27 spline Outer stub
Note: 1987 and later 30s have Reverse Rotation ring & pinion gears
Note: 1971-1972 Cherokees and Wagoneers had closed front knuckles
No limited slip or locking differential was offered.
DANA 44
Used in 1967 to 1991 FSJ (J10, J20 trucks, Wagoneer, Cherokee)
Ring gear diameter = 8.75"
Available ratios = 2.72 - 5.89
Width: Varying widths from 58" - 62"
Note: Beginning in 1980, the differential was on the driver's side of the vehicle Closed knuckle till 1969; 1970 and later are open knuckle From 1967-1969, all 44 fronts used the 5-74x u joint inside of a closed knuckle From 1970-1973, all 44 fronts used the smaller 5-260x axle shaft u-joint (same size as a Dana 30)
Axle shaft diameter = 1 5/16"x30 spline Inner; 1 1/4"x19 spline Outer (1974-present), 1 1/8"x10 spline Outer (1967-1973) Note: 1967-1969 trucks had 1 1/4"x19 spline Inner axles
No limited slip or locking differential was offered.
Rear Axles:
DANA 30
Used in 1967-1968 light duty Jeepsters (C101)
Ring gear diameter = 7.25"
Available ratios = 3.31, 3.73, 4.27, 4.88
Note: These rear ends used tapered, two-piece axleshafts (similar to an AMC 20 rear). All were 5 on 5 1/2" lug pattern A Powr-Lok limited slip differential was offered
DANA 44
Used in 1950 to 1975 Jeep MB, M38, CJ2, CJ3, CJ5, & CJ6; and part year 1986 CJ7
Used in 1967-1972 /heavy duty Jeepsters (C101); 1967-1983 J10 trucks, 1967-1968 J20 trucks and 1967-1980 Wagoneer & Cherokee
Also used as an option in 1997-1999 TJs
Ring gear diameter = 8.75"
Available ratios = 2.72 - 5.89
Width: Varying widths from 58" - 62" FSJ; and 50.5" (1950-1975); (1986 CJ& = 54.5"; TJ 60") Axle shaft diameter: 1969-1980 (and 1986 CJ7) = 1 5/16"x30 spline one-piece Flanged.
All were 5 on 5 1/2" lug pattern
Note: 1950-1968 had 1 1/4"x19 spline two-piece tapered axleshafts (similar to an AMC 20 rear) A Powr-Lok limited slip differential was offered till 1968; from 1969 and later a Trac-Lok limited slip differential was offered.
DANA 60
Used in 1969-1983 Jeep J20 trucks
Ring gear diameter = 9.75"
Available ratios = 3.73, 4.10, 4.88 (1969-1973); 3.73, 4.10 (1974-1983)
Axle shaft diameter: 1969-1973 (medium truck) = 1 1/2"x35 spline semi-floating (5 on 5 1/2" lug pattern); 1969-1973 (heavy truck) and 1974-1983 = 1 5/16"x30 spline full-floating (8 on 6 1/2" lug pattern)
A Powr-Lok limited slip differential was offered till 1973; from 1974 and later a Trac-Lok limited slip differential was offered.
More axle information on this site as well:
http://jeeptech.com/axle/d44.html
Jeep XJ Problems and Fixes:
Thanks to JP magazine! If you own a Jeep, this happens to be one of the better magazines out there.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...s/viewall.html
How To Fix Your Death Wobble:
How To Fix Your Own Death Wobble
in Death Wobble Cures
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How To Fix Your Own Death Wobble
(If you have questions or a comment… post it below, and we’ll answer you ASAP!)
As you have already found out, “Death Wobble” is the horrible front end vibration that starts when one tire (usually the right tire first) hits a groove or bump in the pavement somewhere around 40~50mph. Death Wobble is quite possibly the worst possible downside to having a coil-sprung front suspension on a vehicle with a track bar or panhard bar. Vehicles affected by this design are the Jeep Cherokee XJ, the Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ and WJ, TJ and JK Jeep Wrangler, (and also include trucks like Toyota, Ford, and Dodge Ram, as well as early Ford Broncos). Death Wobble is also extremely difficult to try to diagnose and fix, because it is actually caused by slop in the entire steering system as a whole, not by one component. To diagnose and fix Death Wobble correctly, your mechanic needs to look for “play” everywhere in the steering and front suspension system, searching for anything that could have “play” in it. It’s very time consuming to find a Death Wobble fix, and can be downright dangerous while you are in “testing phase”, trying to exorcise this demon from your Jeep or Truck.
The place I tell people to start, is with an overall visual inspection. Spend 10 solid minutes under the front end, visually inspecting each one of the steering components for shiny spots on steel, rubber, or polyeurthane, which is typically indicative of suspension components that are moving around when they are not supposed to be. Pay CAREFUL attention to the track bar (also called a Panhard Bar inside and ouside the USA, as well as variant spellings (misspellings?) of trackbar, tracbar, and trak-bar ). The Track Bar is often the culprit in many cases. And, if any of your bolts are even the least bit loose, Death Wobble also can manifest itself and make your life a living hell, so check for looseness everywhere.
If everything appears to be “normal” on the underside of your Jeep or Truck, and you’ve verified the bolt tightness on both ends of the track bar, the next thing to do is to start with a front end alignment, making sure that caster (frequently misspelled as ” castor “) is set correctly as well as toe-in. If you have been offroading and have bent your tie rod even slightly, that, also, will throw off your alignment. Plus, it’s only $40 or so at your local alignment shop. By the way, DO NOT let the alignment shop talk you into a four-wheel alignment, as this is only useful on vehicles with independent rear suspension in my experience, and since there are no adjustment points in the rear of a live-axle vehicle ANYWAY, you’re merely paying for a service that you won’t get by the time you leave the alignment shop. Furthermore, if you have a lifted vehicle, make sure that the alignment shop you choose knows the variant specifications for lifted vehicles, and that they do NOT set it to the “default/stock” settings. A good quality alignment shop familiar with lifted 4×4 vehicles will know these settings, and a poor quality shop will likely tell you that it doesn’t matter whether it’s lifted or not…and that they use the stock specs. Walk away immediately, or hang up the phone and call the next shop, if they do.
If you are now *certain* that the front end alignment that it’s set correctly, and that you have not replaced ANY other front end components recently (including tires or wheels) that may have caused the oscillation to begin, I tell people the next most suspect thing is the factory front track bar. Over time, the tie rod end on the upper portion of the Panhard or track bar (some applications like the WJ Grand Cherokee, the Ford Truck and the Dodge Ram have a rubber bushing configuration instead, which also wears out) develops “play” in it due to wear and miles on the vehicle. The same findings often goes for the lower end bushing, which has a rubber or polyurethane isolator bushing in it, and this “slop” will allow the Dreaded Death Wobble oscillation to occur.
Aftermarket trackbars generally come with urethane bushings that allow a LOT less “play” (with respect to movement / crush) than the factory rubber bushings do. The problem with most aftermarket track bars for the Jeep is that they also come with either a Heim joint, Johnny Joint, or tie rod end on the upper end of the Track Bar, which works fine for a while, but wears out over time, leaving you right back where you started, with a large mess in your shorts, a temporarily deafened right ear (from the wife screaming for dear life, or, quite possibly at YOU, for buying the Jeep to begin with, lol), and an overall high level of frustration with your entire rig in general…which doesn’t often lead into a smooth, stress-free trip.
The reason why I created my Track Bar Conversion for XJ Cherokees and ZJ Grand Cherokees is to eliminate that problematic (and expensive to have to replace when it wears out) previously mentioned joint, as well as for the additional flex benefits you get out of it. If you are running an Cherokee XJ or Grand Cherokee ZJ with or without Death Wobble, and it has more than 1.5″ of lift, I highly recommend you check it out. A complementary product we have found to work VERY well in getting rid of Death Wobble is our exclusive Hard-KOR brand SuperDurometer Track Bar Bushings, which are also available for the Track Bar Conversion. They are about TWO TIMES as hard as the typical polyurethane bushings that come in most aftermarket track bars, which typically are made by Daystar or Energy Suspension for most of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Polyurethane bushings are also one of the least expensive replacement parts in the steering components, so they make sense to try first.
Many aftermarket track bars as well as the stock track bar are completely ineffective in managing Death Wobble due to their “effective angle of operation” particularly if you are above say 2 or 3 inches of lift. Keep the thought in the back of your mind, that another alignment is necessary after replacing ANY front end components, especially if Death Wobble still remains. Sometimes you might get lucky and don’t need one…but be forewarned.
The next thing to check is your steering stabilizer. I recommend AT THE MINIMUM, replacing the stabilizer (or dampener, as it’s sometimes called) at the same time as whatever worn components that you find under the front end, as this
“combination punch” is very often more effective than the change caused by each of the parts alone. Death Wobble shakes EVERYTHING, and loosens up OTHER components at the same time. I’ve found that replacing the stabilizer by itself often times doesn’t eliminate death wobble directly, but that it often helps with some other poor handling characteristics, which cause the onset of Death Wobble (such as wandering, for instance) and a new one seems to tighten up the entire steering system. I ONLY recommend our Hard-KOR Steering Stabilizer or the OME SD40 stabilizer , because either one seems to be tighter and work better for stopping Death Wobble than the other manufacturers of steering dampeners and stabilizers on the market (and I’ve tried them all, trying like hell to get rid of a WJ Death Wobble problem years ago). They are also the most heavy duty that I’m aware of. These two stabilizers are the ONLY two that I recommend to ANYONE who is having trouble with Death Wobble, and it’s also one of the least expensive parts to replace in your steering system to attempt to remedy the problem.
Here are some other steering components to check over for looseness or improper movement:
Tie Rod Ends (all four, plus the upper track bar end)
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Track Bar Mounting Bracket Bolts
Steering Box Bolts
Track Bar Ends
Another product that we’ve made to assist with Death Wobble, is our XJ Cherokee Steering Box Brace for the Jeep Cherokee XJ, and our ZJ Grand Cherokee Steering Box Brace for the V8 and 6 Cyl Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ, which holds the steering gear box tightly on those two models, allowing the additional stresses of running larger-than-stock tires be directed to BOTH frame rails, rather than depending on the three little bolts that hold the gear to the frame, which get loose and if they do, will snap the gear box ears off the box, and leave you stranded somewhere you don’t want to be.
Another source of Death Wobble is over-inflated tires (you should have somewhere around 30psi or so in stock sized tires, and far less pressure the larger your tires are. See Boyle’s Law and consider how much more volume of air is inside your 33″ tires compared to stock-sized tires. As an example, I run around 18psi in my 37″ tires).
The last thing that I can mention that has caused Death Wobble in the past is hub bearings. If there is a little slop in them over the years and miles, they MAY indeed help to cause the oscillation as well. I mentioned them last because they are the most expensive to replace, and probably least likely to be the ROOT of the problem (though they might be a component adding to the problem).
While you have the front end apart, you should consider adding some offset upper ball joints to your Jeep if you’re running a lift kit, in order to return the caster back to what a stock Jeep would be if you are running say 4″ of lift or more. Be aware that on 4×4 models (especially full-time 4×4 models), by NOT changing the ball joints to the offset type, you add more vibration to the front drive shaft since you are also turning your pinion angle downward in conjunction with every caster angle increase. In other words, you can’t have one without the other, and on the full-time 4×4 models, you’ll get a little vibration at highway speeds by NOT doing so. Compared to Dreaded Death Wobble, however, this is a VERY small price to pay, lol.
Hopefully this short checklist gets you started on the right foot and helps to cure your Death Wobble problems, and gives you a permanent Death Wobble Fix.
Very Sincerely,
-=Kevin=-
Thanks to Kevin at Kevins Off Road:
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/how-to-...-death-wobble/
RODEO/HONDA/PASSPORT DANA 44 JEEP REAR AXLE SWAP:
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...s/viewall.html
1998+ ISUZU Dana 44 Jeep Swap TECH:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archi.../t-603807.html
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