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Thread: JEEP INFORMATION AND LINKS

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    Here is a sweet Jeep Build up site that I stumbled across looking at ARB rebuild information. This guy has done some very nice and comprehensive write ups on his Jeep, plus he has a bunch of pretty cool videos of hard trails around Phoenix. Worth looking at if for nothing else than the videos....

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.html

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    Default XJ Fuel Starting Problem Fix



    I have had a starting issue with LaDawn's Jeep Cherokee for awhile and have been trying to diagnose it. I chased all sorts of threads and posts on the internet, literally reading hundreds of threads on many forums. Seems like the basic 'engine turns over, no fuel/spark/no start' is a rather universal problem that even dealerships can't sort out.

    Turns out that there are two recurring fixes, neither of which is found in dealer information, Chilton's or Haynes. Here they are:

    There are two screws that hold the cover plate on to your PCM/ ECU. This is located behind the coolant overflow on the passenger side of the rig. Jeep made these screws too long by about 1/4" and they tend to short out the circuit, sometimes intermittently. Remove the overflow. Pull the connectors off. Take a Torx screwdriver and back the screws out 1/4". If this fixes the problem, replace with shorter screws or grind 1/4" off old ones.

    The second fix came about after reading two sentences in one of the threads. " To check to see if your Crank Positioning Sensor is good, unplug the plug from the passenger side of the motor that goes to your sensor (located on the driver's side of the bell housing above the shift linkage bracket on an automatic). Turn on your key and if your guages now work, the sensor is bad." This was the problem for me. Nowhere else did this information appear and the dealers couldn't tell me this simple trouble shooting hint.

    Here is the link to the site that had the most information for chasing down the same problem. Turns out there are about 40 things that cause similiar problems for XJs, no matter the year model.

    http://forums.cnet.com/5208-6305_102...tag-w;forums06

    That doesn't work, go to : Jeep Grand Cherokee stalling fixed! on CNET Car Tech Forums page 3 of 5 or post #145of 290

    Hopefully this will save someone the headaches, not to mention the cost of a new fuel pump. I ran a hot line directly to mine and it wouldn't work, so made the logical assumption that the pump was bad. Turns out that if the sensor is shot, your pump isn't getting the right signal, hot line or not.

    Want to buy an 1998 XJ with a new fuel pump and Crank Sensor? Its going to be for sale. Good shape, too. Call LaDawn.
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    Default We Be Jeepin TJ Link



    Great resource for TJ Owners.


    http://www.webejeepin.com/

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    Jeep Dana 30 and Dana 35 information:

    Here are a couple of links for information regarding the replacement/repair/field repair of the standard Jeep axles: the Dana 30 front axle and the Dana 35 rear axle. One or both of the front axle links covers both the quick field repair and also replaceing the front axle seals. You essentially have to do all of the same work to get to the seals at any rate...Take note of the fact that if you purchase a used 30 front axle from the junkyard, that it is also well worth your while to get the whole assembly with the hub attached. You have very little work to do with this assembly to replace it in the field..

    The Dana 35 rear axle has a very nice picture and description of the 'C' clips that hold the rear axle in place. Since this is a common trail break, it is well worth your time to learn how to do this in the field or, better yet, purchase a 'C' clip eliminator kit.

    http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/d30axleseal.html

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d35/d35-1.htm

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d35/d35-1.htm

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    Jeep XJ roll bar pictures and sources:

    Our XJ guys were asking about roll cage sources and some ideas on external roll cages. This is for them. Manufacturers are listed where applicable.

    Rock Hard 4x4 Parts:

    http://www.rockhard4x4parts.com/xj-2door.html

    10 Day Jeep Speed Roll Cage article:

    http://www.jpmagazine.com/projectbui.../photo_07.html

    Cruzin Illusions Roll Cage:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...96764&posted=1

    Article:

    http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/.../photo_08.html

    From Rusty's Off Road (I think this is Rusty's rig)

    http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan..._Code=ORANGEXJ

    Note: While this doesn't have the external cage, it does have almost all the protection it needs: rock rails and front and rear bumpers, plus a sweet internal cage. Personally, I like the rock rails to extend almost even with the outside of the tires, providing both a step and a 'kick out' to protect the easily damaged body panels. This guys knows his XJs, though, and has just about everything for them. He is also probably the single biggest source for after market XJ parts anywhere.

    CarDomain Jeep Grand Write up:

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2303256

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    More XJ/MJ related links, representin the "Cheap-Jeeps"!

    Stock specs: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...k-specs-26256/

    Tech/FAQ and TSB links: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/t...ks-tsbs-89273/

    Need a manual or parts catalog? Download it here: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

    The board that keeps my junk on the road: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=42

    The local chapter: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=95

    If you work on your own XJ/MJ, you want Marcus' page cached in your favorites: http://go.jeep-xj.info/

    Just because I'm cheap ! Post #35 has an extensive list for longer brake lines: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...t=70205&page=3
    ___________
    The Lost Boys motto: We don't know where we're going, but we'll be there for awhile. :)

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    Here is a lot of Jeep information:

    Dana 30 Axle Seal Replacement:

    http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/d30axleseal.html

    Axle Specs and Tips For Repairing Axles:

    http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/jeep...s_on_Jeeps.htm

    Dana 30 Axle Shaft removal:

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-1.htm

    Jeep Grand Cherokee/Grand Wagoneer Stalling Problem:

    http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7811_102...hreadID=248386

    Jeep Axle Tech (Huge information source)

    http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/

    Jeep Security Systems:

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/3503647/Je...curity-Systems

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    A spin-off from JeepForum, the local guys put up an independant board: http://www.cojeeps.net/forums/index.php
    ___________
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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    Heating problems, flushing the radiator, flushing the heater core links:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/9...st-way-761706/

    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/The_heater...you_back_flush

    http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/heat...lush-5631.html

    http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-mid-...ater-core.html

    Some things to keep in mind on these posts:

    Watch your regular garden hose pressure. It is easy to blow out the heater core.

    Watch what temperature your upper and lower (main) hoses are. The heater core may not be the problem.

    Watch the temperature of the heater hoses themselves. If you have heat in both, the problem is probably elsewhere.

    Watch the cable/vent adjustment valve. Make sure that it is working properly.

    Watch the suggestions for the right kind of radiator flush, how to use it to the best affect, etc.

    Keep in mind that the heating system is comprised of many parts, including the thermostat.

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    Some good and reasonable Jeep modification can be found on this guys link:

    http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/mods.html

    The guy is a professional photographer and both he and his Jeep have appeared in a lot of off road publications.

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    Default Re: Jeep Stuff



    I ran into these guys at the Hooligan's cancer benefit.

    Nemesis Industries
    Rob Graft
    2820 South Zuni St. Suite 100
    Englewood, CO 80110

    303-974-2460

    These guys have started making some aerospace quality body, fenders, skid plates, hood supports, doors and more for Jeeps. It is some of the highest quality stuff I have ever seen.

    Here is there website:

    http://www.NEM-IND.COM

    Check them out!

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    Jeep alternator upgrade: stock 60 amp to 136 amp for cheap:

    PRELUDE
    OK, for some time now, I was wanting to add an electric fan to my beast. I was really wanting to install one of the 91-95 3.8L Taurus dual-speed fans that is all the rage these days. The only problem with this was the 33A continuous draw and 100+A startup draw. So, that meant that the stock 90A alternator would be working its tail off. The only other option that I had, besides the out-of-the-question USD$300+ hi-amp alternator upgrade, was to purchase a decent aftermarket fan that drew only around 10A or so continuous. The problem with this is that these fans are not cheap. So, I went on a mission to find a replacement hi-amp OEM alternator. I read about people looking at 120 amp models and one mention of a 136 amp model but nobody, as far as I know, ever confirmed that any of these would even work on paper. Guess what, for a mere USD$30, I was able to upgrade to a 136 amp alternator with very, very little effort! You say this can't be true. Well folks, it is and I am about to show you!

    WHAT YOU HAVE

    Here's a photo of my original alternator.
    Ok, now, I know that the OEM 90 amp alternator(OEM PN:56005685AB) in my 97 TJ was also used in the following:

    * 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota
    * 1991-1998 Jeep Cherokee
    * 1991-1992 Jeep Comanche
    * 1992-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    * 1991-1998 Jeep Wrangler

    Note: I have only confirmed this entire modification on a 1997 4.0L Jeep Wrangler. I am unsure as to what motor combinations the above vehicles came with in conjunction with this particular 90A alternator. This is an "ON YOUR OWN AND YOUR OWN RISK" type of modification. If your wiring is not up to the task, etc., you could burn your jeep to the ground or injure yourself. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!

    WHAT YOU NEED

    Here's what you're looking for.
    You are looking for an OEM 136 amp alternator(OEM PN:56027913) that was an option on the following vehicles(I am unsure of what motor combinations, etc. were required):

    * 1997-1998 Dodge B.Series Van
    * 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota
    * 1998 Dodge Durango
    * 1997-1998 Dodge Ram Pickup
    * 1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

    I got mine from a local Jeep yard for USD$30 out of a very clean 98 5.2L Limited that only had 60,000 miles on it when it was wrecked.




    Here are the two alts. side by side. The higher amp. alternator is on the left.

    I did quite a bit of research and found that the basic mounting dimensions and connections were the same between the two. You can see the physical size difference of the two. As a matter of fact the 136A alternator was 1 kg heavier. The only major difference was the direction of the plastic boot on the back of the alternator and the pulley is a 7 groove vs. my TJ's 6 groove. It was found that there was a 1 mm difference between the pulley diameters, but this is negligible and does not need to be addressed.

    WHAT YOU NEED TO DO TO INSTALL
    Ok, this mod is not much harder than installing a new alternator. I won't go into the details of changing the alternator, but rather, I will point out the details that must addressed during installation.

    The first major difference between the two is the direction of the plastic boot. For ease of installation and clearance, this needs to be changed. By swapping the boots from the Wrangler to the Cherokee alternator, this change is easily accomplished. The boots are keyed (see red arrows) and install over the indicated stud below and locate on the small hole in the case (see green arrow).

    The Wrangler boot is on the left and directs the exit of the boot away from the engine.


    Details of the plastic boot positioning.

    The other very minute detail to be attended to was the "spacer bushing" on the rear ear of the top alternator mount. The Cherokee's alternator's bushing (probably from rolling around on the floor) had been pushed too far inward and needed to be pressed back out. I accomplished this via a vise and large socket. Don't worry about pressing the bushing too far out because the mounting bolt will draw the bushing back tight again. The picture below shows the bushing after I pressed it out of the way:


    The spacer bushing.

    Finally, I mentioned that the Cherokee's pulley was a 7 groove pulley. If you wanted the extra work, you could simply swap the two alternators' pulleys. However, you do not need to do this. If you bias the belt to the rearward most six grooves, the belt and alternator will align and run just fine. You can see the alternator installed in the pic below with the belt biased towards the back.


    Installed and ready to go. Notice how that the front groove on the pulley is unused.

    Well, after the install, I tested the bad boy out. Everything seems to work just fine and I can crank the old stereo and run every electronic device in my jeep and hook up the Taurus fan to the battery and nothing even "blinks." Anyway, hopefully, someone will find this article helpful and save a few dollars in the process.

    - Tod "Firetoad"

    Once again, thanks to BC4x4.com for for fine tech! Here is the link with the photos: http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2004/jeepalt/

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    From tbalcome:

    When faced with troubles of my Vacuum CAD not working, my buddy Shawn designed this manual alternative! Works great so far!

    Here is another link to a write up on BC 4x4 for a homemade cable actuator:

    http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30sh...tpost&p=130805

    And a link to the commercial Posi Loc version of the same thing:

    http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

    Keep in mind that if you do own a Jeep with the vacuum actuated 4x, you WILL end up stuck someplace in the cold and wet when this thing simply won't engage. Anything you can do to remedy this extremely brain dead piece of engineering, be it homemade or after market, is going to give you a lot of piece of mind. Before I did mine, I was living in the foothills and there were a couple of times when I went to bed and forgot to put the rig in 4WD only to wake up the next morning to find a foot or two of snow and freezing temps and not being able to engage 4WD to get out of the driveway....

    Thanks for the reminder on this. I had almost forgotten since it has been awhile since I had a Cherokee that I needed 4WD on. Got one now, but haven't needed the 4WD yet....
          

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    Hub and Axle Vacuum Disconnect Basics:

    \http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...ics/index.html

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