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Thread: D44 Eaton Locker Install

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    Default D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Thought I'd keep a small thread for work on the Eaton locker install:
    Differential work has begun....I went with the pull the entire axle housing out to make things easier method. Using the HF engine hoist yet again for a bit of help getting the axle up on the stands....


    Here is the Trac-Loc that is in it (and OEM I assume):


    it still works, at least to the point that when one wheel is turned, the opposing side wheel also turns in the same direction. So there is at least a minimal amount of friction on the clutch packs. I even took a quick video of it on the bench showing the entire unit turned when I turn one side and no movement of the spyder gears.

    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Continuing on....
    Ok - measured backlash at quite a few points around the ring gear - consistently getting 0.009" (with variation of +/- 0.001).

    Some gear patterns - these are all as it sits right off the jeep with who knows how many miles...
    The convex side of the tooth:


    And two for the concave side of tooth as they are harder to get decent photo:


    And a few more...trying a different spot or two and also more/less paint marker.


    ___________
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    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Looking good! It is a fair amount of work, but you are doing it the right way. On the stands makes things so much easier. Are you planning new gears for the locker?
    ___________
    Morrison, CO

    87 Toyota 4Runner expedition rig | 86 Toyota Custom Cab Pickup | 76 Scout II; mild build | 69 Nissan Patrol; original w/ 64k miles

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    No new gears...keeping the oem 4.88s. Just changing the differential case which comes with new side gears.
    ___________
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    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    From some experienced hands - suggestion was to use less gear paint, and then put it mostly on 1 tooth and run the ring gear all the way around and back to have a more minimal paint marking that is easier to read (but its harder to photograph).
    A few more pics of gear pattern - this is what I am going to try and match when I put it back together. Centered between top and root and a bit towards the toe:




    ___________
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    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Also got the axle shafts pulled...
    Step 1 - remove the little disc/cover to open up the access through the flanged axle end to get to the mounting nuts:


    Step 2 - you can then remove the nuts (I need to find the torque spec for these when reassembling, but this really helped to put the impact gun on):


    Step 3 - I wasn't able to just hand pull the axle shafts out, so I put the drum on backwards with a few of the lug nuts leaving some room for the drum to slide, and with a couple of bumps it came right out.


    Step 4 - With the axle shaft (and flange) removed, the brake backing plate with all the hardware can be slid right off the mounting bolts...and you can then order all the stuff you need for rebuilding the brakes...I'd like to put 11" on the rear, but will probably just fix up these 10"ers - it doesn't looks like the have been adjusting properly so they probably haven't been helping much....The 11" I have on the front do most if not all the work.


    With brake backing plate removed:


    And just because I had never looked down an axle housing...
    ___________
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    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    I like the drum-on-backwards trick.



    On my `68 Ford wagon, with a STUBBORN axle shaft removal, the shop grabbed a 10' chain, wrapped one end behind the axle flange and then went to the back yard of the shop to return with a head from a 4-cyl motor - with the other end of the chain wrapped around it. Grab head, swing until the chain is tight. Not once or twice but ten or twenty times - with blue flame on the axle housing near the bearing location. `glad yours came out easy!

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    The tapered (2 piece) D44 from 69 and earlier are notorious for needing lots of encouragement to get the hub off to pull the shaft. This later 1 piece design is both stronger and easier to remove.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Jim previously posted:
    "I like the drum-on-backwards trick."

    Can't say I came up with that myself...but it is useful trick that was passed along to me. I was going to buy an HF slide hammer for this, but figured I'd give this method a try first and it worked. If I need to pull the unit bearing race that is pressed into the axle housing, I may still need to pick up the slide hammer. I don't intend to change the unit bearings and thus would normally leave the race in place, but the seal inboard of the unit bearing race looks like it might need to be replaced, and that would require removing the race. These unit bearings are grease packed for lubrication and thus the differential fluid does need to be kept out of the area. TBD...
    ___________
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    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Update...pulled the differential case out....

    Remove the carrier bearing caps - I did mark these (as well as noted previous marks) to keep them in the exact same orientation when they go back on...



    Prying the case out of the housing...this was a bit tricky as I didn't want to damage anything (especially the ring gear teeth). This is one of those things that looks easy on the vids and turns out to be surprisingly a PITA.


    The empty housing:


    And the differential case....


    So next up I need to remove the ring gear....and is there any way to remove those old bearings from the Trac Lok case without damaging them, or the shims behind them?
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Great progress!

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Got the ring gear separated from the Trac Lok case....used some door hing pins to gently knock the ring gear down and off the case...It was not a very tight press fit.


    Was going to polish up the ring gear mounting surface on the new Eaton case and pull the ring gear up tight on the mounting surface, but may have run into a an issue with the Eaton case (seems to have a bent tab on the exterior that I don't think serves much purpose)...will have to call them tomorrow and see...Its still good to make some small progress...
    ___________
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    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Looks good.
    You need a case spreader.
    The d30 is even tighter.

    Looking good. Nice wear paternity you have
    ___________
    Crazy- You call me crazy, but you wouldn't know crazy if Charles Manson was eating Fruit Loops on your front porch. Suiciadl tendancies- intatutionalized

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Lots of good info in this post. Thanks again!

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Be a week or so before I make any more progress as I am traveling out if town. Looking forward to putting it all back together.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
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    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Okay - back home after a couple weeks in Montana. Decided I should probably replace all the bearing and seals while I have the differential apart...I am not excited to pull the pinon out and get it reinstalled to the exact correct depth, but at the same time, it will be nice to have essentially a completely rebuilt rear axle that should never need attention again. I ordered this Richmond gear kit with Timken bearings and all the spacers, seals and new ring gear bolts and pinon nut - should arrive today:
    https://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond-Gear...033-1/10002/-1
    I will also get new unit bearings for the axle shafts when I get that far along putting it all back together - those will be another challenge to get pressed on and off.

    Last night made a tool/wrench to put on the yoke so that I can hold the yoke while impact gun removes the pinon nut - kind of crude and simple but cheap as it came from my scrap pile - just 3"x3/16 flat stock:



    After removing the pinon nut, I will need to drive the pinon gear out through the inside of the housing without letting it fall to the floor damaging the teeth. Will also have to massage the pinon seal out as well and then clean out the housing...
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    After using my yoke wrench, impact socket, heat and some aggression to get the pinon nut off, I put a small puller on the yoke to remove it:


    After removing the yoke I used a drift to drive out the pinon gear:


    Although I don't have picture - I drove the outer pinon bearing out from inside the case, pushing the seal and oil slinger with it.
    Next up was getting the pinon bearing races out - the first one was a PITA. As there are two races, I couldn't fit the appropriate race driver through either race to drive the other one out. So I had to drive the first one out with a drift on the small little exposed lip of the race:


    Then I was able to drive the second race out with a driver:


    A completely empty case - starting doing a bit of cleaning:


    All the pieces: I now have to measure all the different spacers/shims - both the ones between the pinon shaft and housing and the ones between the races and the housing.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Made some more progress...little by little...
    Got the 3 remaining bearings pulled off - the 2 side bearings on the case and the inner pinon bearing on the pinon gear shaft . Used a bearing splitter on a puller set-up (and a little heat):


    used my yoke wrench to protect the top end of the pinon from the puller screw drive - it was all I had handy .


    Also swapped out the stator ring that had the broken stop tab on the new eaton locker:
    The broken tab:

    Just have to remove the snap ring and lift top and stator ring off to replace:



    Time to measure all the different shim thicknesses....and then try to get the inner pinon bearing driven on the pinon shaft and inner pinon bearing race with the appropriate spacers under it for pinon depth.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    I'm digging it!

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    Default Re: D44 Eaton Locker Install



    Great work!
    ___________
    Morrison, CO

    87 Toyota 4Runner expedition rig | 86 Toyota Custom Cab Pickup | 76 Scout II; mild build | 69 Nissan Patrol; original w/ 64k miles

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