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Thread: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started

  1. #61
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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Jim previously posted:
    "`curious to what happened..."

    I'm writing a novel, after school tonight.
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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    What do you all think of this P-R clunk:
    https://youtu.be/ISuEyxziVvI

    Kickdown adjusted, fluid topped. It's an audible clunk. Yesterday was a buzz before adding fluid and kickdown adjustment. Is this the trans trying to get fluid back in it?

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    4x4JeePmaNthINg previously posted:
    "What do you all think of this P-R clunk:"

    Do you have your foot on the brake when shifting?

    Is the rear axle jacked up / can the rear axles rotate while the vehicle is stationary?

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Yes foot on the brake, no rear drive shaft in, I'm going to push the t case lever all the way toward the front of the jeep and see if that's 2wd.

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    I found 2wd and the output does spin. I did get that buzz again in R, while shifting from D-P.

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    I wonder if the buzz is the parking pawl trying to engage while the mechanism (output end) is still spinning.

    If you don't have (either) driveshaft installed, the output ends of the transmission have nothing to stop them from rotating, aside from waiting in neutral for them to stop spinning, before going into park. It's similar to trying to slam into park when you're moving at 1 to 5 mph...

    I think, if you had the full drive train installed - where the output couldn't free-wheel (foot on brake would cause trans output to be not-rotating) you might not be getting these noises.

    (I should re-read the posts to see where the noises are happening)

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    I'll give it a try jim, only missing the tail shaft. Easy enough to throw on and test on my weekend.

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Hypoid previously posted:
    "I'm writing a novel, after school tonight. "

    It took longer to write, that it did to execute. The purpose of writing this out is to illustrate a systemic approach to diagnostics, that seems to be absent from many internet threads.

    First and foremost, I want to give a shout-out to Matt. He did a great job on the many "first time ever" tasks that went into this engine swap!

    Drill-Down List:

    Visual Inspection:
    All electrical and vacuum systems hooked up, general condition?
    Any loose or missing fasteners?
    Any gaps, misalignments, or witness marks indicating loose assemblies?

    Confirm Observations:

    Matt had already confirmed the TPS Low and High Voltages were within prescribed limits. Without having specific knowledge of the software’s terminology, I wanted to do a “sweep” test on the sensor. Having some working knowledge of Rheostats and Potentiometers, and not having a DVOM with the capability of measuring for “drop out,” I brought an analog Ohmmeter. Alas! I could not reliably connect to the pins, so we opted for the OBDII reader. With the Key On, Engine Off, we checked the TPS for dead spots. The display did show two spots with no reading from the TPS, but, not at idle. The question remains: Are the dead spots the reason for the “TPS Low Voltage” code?

    Since I am not familiar with the scanner software, I wanted to take another approach to the “Bank 1 lean” code set by the scanner.

    While we tested the TPS, the ECU set another code, something about no signal from the CPS. Go figure!

    Active Investigation:

    After attaching a Vacuum Gauge to the manifold, and pressure gauge to the fuel rail, we started the engine. I noticed a slight misfire, and rough idle. The vacuum gauge registered 14” at idle, with minor, rapid, fluctuations. I thought this was a low reading, which could be an indicator of a few different problems. There were no sounds indicating mechanical problems inside the engine. I attributed the rapid fluctuation and low vacuum to the cylinder misfire. Fuel pressure was within spec, and consistent.

    In an attempt to track down the misfire, we started by disconnecting the plug wires, one at a time, with the engine running. Each time, the rpms dropped, with no other changes. I touched each injector to find the solenoids cycling. In spite of Matt’s diligence in labeling and keeping the under hood organized, I wanted to try swapping injector connectors on cylinders 1 & 2, 5 & 6: No change. When we shut off the engine to swap the first pair of injector connectors, I did monitor the pressure on the fuel rail. After waiting 30 minutes, we had a slow and consistent 50% bleed down, which I believe is acceptable.

    Through my process of looking for the big AHA! The scanner software on Matt’s had shut off a few times. At this point, I wanted to see the real time output from the oxygen sensor. Matt found the bar graph, with a voltage reading. As we watched, the graph went flat, the voltage went to zero, and stayed at zero. We had our smoking gun! When Matt pulled the oxygen sensor, it was covered with black soot.

    After installing a new oxygen sensor, we started the engine to record the same low, unstable vacuum reading that we had already documented. I held the throttle open long enough to clear unburned fuel from the cylinders, no change. Time to look at the spark plugs.



    All six spark plugs were covered with black soot, except where the arc was jumping from electrode to ground strap. All six plugs were properly gapped. All six spark plugs are platinum tipped, the manufacturer specified standard plugs. I wanted to do a compression test while the spark plugs were out.

    Matt held the throttle all the way open while cranking the engine. While cranking on the first cylinder test, there was a strong fuel smell that was not present when we tested the rest of the cylinders. Results are as follows:
    Cylinder 1-130 lbs.
    Cylinder 2-130 lbs.
    Cylinder 3-128 lbs.
    Cylinder 4-135 lbs.
    Cylinder 5-132 lbs.
    Cylinder 6-130 lbs.

    After recording the readings on my phone, I observed that all cylinders held their pressure until I released it.

    At this point, we decided to install the used plugs from the old engine. We pulled the used plugs from the old engine, verified the gap and installed. The engine started easily and idled smoothly, the vacuum reading was more stable at 14”. As a cross check, I put the vacuum gauge on my engine: 14” vacuum. I guess that is all we can expect at that elevation.



    ___________
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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Excellent write up Mike. Around 14" vacuum is what I get with my Jeep. I would also pull spark plugs again in a week and make sure they are staying clean and the cause has been resolved.
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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Thanks for the detail!


    Hypoid previously posted:
    "All six spark plugs are platinum tipped, the manufacturer specified standard plugs."


    Hypoid previously posted:
    "We pulled the used plugs from the old engine, verified the gap and installed. The engine started easily and idled smoothly,"


    So you're putting the cause at bad plugs or a single bad plug?

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Jim previously posted:
    "So you're putting the cause at bad plugs or a single bad plug?"

    Without more in depth research, I'm thinking the Autolite Platinum plugs are not the best product for this model year.

    Now that we are focusing on spark energy, I remember watching blue sparks jump a 2-inch air gap while I was pulling wires one at a time, and doing the compression test. I think the ignition system is working as it should.
    ___________
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  12. The Following Member Says Thanks to Hypoid For This Post:

    Jim (March 11th, 2019)

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Mike that code we saw we saw was p1391, it's showing again. Both ckps,cmps are about 1yr old Mopar parts. I believe we verified spark already so I'm a bit lost on what to check, except the distributor itself is the 220000 stock.

    I had a new napa reman I chose not to use because the shaft play seemed the same as the stock.

    Should I be looking elsewhere or is the distributor likely worn?

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Ok guys so p1391 CEL continues to come on, and I'm stuck, I have gone through every step of FSM check and youtube video that pertains to this.

    I have tested all continuity from PCM to each lead on the harness for ckps, cmps. Everything was within .6-.8ohm.
    I have checked for 5V supply at sensor harness and PCM ( key on, key off, cranking), I've checked signal wires the same, ground wires the same.
    - Cmps/ckps 5v supply
    . A17/K7
    . .09 key off
    . 5.19 key oncc

    - cmps signal
    . A18/K44
    . .09 key off
    . 5.19 key on

    - cmps/ckps ground
    . A4/K167
    . .0V cranking,key on, key off

    -ckps signal
    . A8/K24
    . 4mv key off, .09 key off
    . 1.7mv key on, 5.19V key on
    5.26V crank
    -ckps 5v supply connected to harness
    . .09V key off
    . 5 19 V key on
    . 5.26V crank

    -ckps ground (2V)
    . 0V key off
    .016 key on
    .180 crank highest

    What do you guys think?

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Just wondering? Did you get your rig running?

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Yes it's running, but it's got a code I have been unsuccessful in tracking down. P1391. I've tested everything I can and I'm planning on taking it to a Chrysler mechanic. There they can load test it and put a scope on it. She is moving on her own power though!

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    Nice, but hope you can figure out the code. C-AIR is a pain w/the engine light won't pass.
    Is it running strong? And ready for the trails? Anyway glad you've got this far!

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    P1391 is Crankcase or cam shaft sensor circuit, seems you already knew that. It is often the crankcase position sensor which can test out electrically but won't work. Cheap sensors from Autozone, O'reilly and Advance tend to be defective out of box or have very short service life. I hear Jeep is the best place to get this, $194+ tax but maybe you got a bad one. Napa is $85 and appears to have gotten rid of the code on my buddies 01 Cherokee that we replaced yesterday. Also check the wiring harness near the back of the engine to make sure there are no spots rubbing.
    ___________
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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    It's Mopar sensor#2, the replacement to the stock. Hypoid suggested it not likely being the crank as he didn't think it would run. CEL on every second start after clearing. Harness ohm tested good, signal and supply tested good.
    Otherwise it starts and drives fine. I really hope it's not the sensor but I don't want to go spend another $100 for a Mopar sensor and that not be the case.

    That's where the dealership comes in being able to mount a scope and seeing the pattern between the crank and the cam position sensor plus being able to do a load test and readout. 115$ diagnostic

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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    That's a lot more reasonable diagnostic charge than I would have expected. Can't go wrong knowing the issue for the same or less money than throwing parts at it.
    p.s. When the crankcase sensor went out on my Jeep I had intermittent problems and codes for months before it finally went and would not start or run.
    ___________
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    Default Re: Need someone with obdii scanner/ help get her started



    4x4JeePmaNthINg previously posted:
    "Hypoid suggested it not likely being the crank as he didn't think it would run."

    I've been reading about XJs that had problems with the crank sensor, but the vehicle still ran. So, take my opinion with a grain of salt.
    ___________
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