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Thread: Busting nuts.

  1. #1
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    Default Busting nuts.



    Son of a diddly.

    I was trying to rotate my tires and found a few stiff lugnuts.

    Being the stubborn SOB that I am I soaked them in penetrating oil, and came back a little later with my jack handle. That worked on all but one of them.

    That on the cover ripped off the lug nut, so I took it off and dropped down to a smaller socket to fit the now small nut.

    That, in turn, just rounded right over. Not to be out done, i grabbed my handy dandy damaged nut removers, and beat the ever loving crap out of it with my mini sledge until it was nicely wedged on.

    This time the nut sheard fairly clean right in half.

    So now I am looking at trying to get to the back of the hub with a chisel, which I don't think I can, or getting some nice cobalt drill bits and better drill to just drill the stud out and replace.

    I also need to check every single lug for stretching, because IDK what the dealer torqued them too, but it is way more than 75 to 80 that I usually use for aluminum wheels.

    I would take it to the dealer, but I don't really want them touching this thing again.

    Also, I have replaced all if the other lugnuts with solid, splined Gorilla brand nuts, and used a torque wrench like a reasonable human being.

    Gotta love surprises. I am glad I found out at home and not on trail with a flat.
          

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    JGRubicon previously posted:
    "I don't really want ANYONE ELSE touching MY VEHICLE again."

    ftfy.

    If the back side is difficult to reach, I think I'd drill, center and true, down the centerline of the lug bolt to just further than the base of the lug nut. This should keep you away from the wheel and backing plate (not that you'd risk much if offline). Move larger in drill bit to perhaps get to a point where you could twist off the nut and the whole thing would rip off. Wheel off then tend replacement of the remainder of the bolt.

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Can you cut the nut off. It will damage the stud but those are easily replaceable.
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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    FYI- 100lbft is the factory spec!

    Drill it center punch the stud first.

    try waking the nut and then you might get it to walk with the hammer and chisel.

    But i think drilling it is going to be your best bet. mind you these are hardened bolts!
    go slow and use cutting oil!

    good luck!
    ___________
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    JGRubicon (July 11th, 2018)

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Oh and when all said and done coat em with anti-seize compound.
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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Not so much a fan of the antiseze it tends to let things get loose as well over tourque
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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    I am planning on drilling it at this point. From what I have seen the 44 is very hard to access from the back. I grabbed a front stud that I will practice on. I also have some Cle-Line m42 bits coming, so between that, and taking my sweet time I think it will work out.

    I would like to use a better drill maybe I can look for an unappreciated old corded drill on CL. I should already have one at this point. I have some odd ball motor oil, that'll work just dandy for the home gamer right?

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Sounds good just go slow
    ___________
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    JGRubicon (July 11th, 2018)

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    How easy can you pull the axle? Might that make drilling easier (vertical orientation) - or an option to take it to someone to drill.

    Low cost used drill - check the pawn shops.

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    Getaklu (July 11th, 2018),JGRubicon (July 11th, 2018)

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    I think getting the brake caipers off is the major hurdle, then also D&F the diff fluid and whatnot. If I had drum rears it would probably come out fairly easy.

    I've not measured that I can't do this, but I've seen it talked about like this isn't an option, I'll take a look if it isn't going well.

    And you're absolutely right about the not letting anyone work on my vehicle part. This was the first and only exception in a long while.

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Is there room to weld another nut to it?

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    JGRubicon (July 13th, 2018)

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    newracer previously posted:
    "Is there room to weld another nut to it?"

    That was my first thought but it doesn’t look like it from the pics. The divot in the end of the bolt that’s not centered is going to make drilling it a PITA. I’d probably get the stud nice and hot with a TIG torch so it stretches and relieves the clamp force then try to knock it off with a hammer and chisel if there’s room to get a few good swings on it. If that doesn’t work the stud will be annealed which will make drilling easier. Either way, grinding a nice flat on the end will make staying centered simpler.

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    JGRubicon (July 13th, 2018)

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    This thing being a painted aluminum wheel, I don't think there's much room for a lot of heat. I also do not have a welder, although that is on the docket.

    Hopefully they did not stretch out a bunch of the studs, especially in the rear since they're like $15 apiece.

    I learned that weld a bolt on trick from a really cool guy that used to let me use his garage when I had a 94 Caprice wagon, That man is also the reason that I can say that the only kind of a welding I do is aluminum TIG. Which is an embellishment to say the least.

    The good news is, I got this really nice set of Cobalt bits yesterday, And by starting with a tiny bit and going real slow I was able to get off hole in a good spot. These cobalt bits are no joke, I should have bought these 15 years ago.

    I also found out yesterday that my punch is only intended for tree carcass. Dang it.

    After using these bits I am pretty darn confident I can do the job without breaking a bit off inside the stud, which was my main concern before getting these.
          

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    You'll be done before you know it.

    First bit will take the longest. Stepping up will go quick.

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Looks like you got a good start. Keep the drill RPMs correct and you’ll get it out. If it comes to using heat I wouldn’t worry about the wheels, Al will rapidly disperse the heat and not damage the paint. I’d offer up my welder for such a project if you ever need it.

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    JGRubicon (July 16th, 2018)

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Got home early yesterday, and took the opportunity to finish . I did wind up buying a corded drill, mostly for the keyed chuck, and other than the slippy chuck, the only problem I ran into was digging a little too deep for my comfort which I solved by running over lightly with a left handed high speed steel bit.

    The whole process really only took a few hours including a trip to home depot and a couple beers. Things did get a little hairy when I got to the threads, but the higher torque of the corded drill really came in handy in conjunction with slow forward progress.

    I feel a whole lot better about this whole thing now. I might even go up over Hancock past next weekend while we're camping in Dillon with Molly's coworkers.

    Thank you for all the wisdom gentleman, hopefully I'll see you soon! Sorry I can't make it to the clean up run this weekend.
             

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    If anybody else has to do this, you need to go about 25 mm on a JK. You can verify this yourself by using The back of a caliper and wedging it in between the wheel and another stud. I used around 8 different bits to step this up slowly, for what it's worth. You could use high speed steel bits, I spent a little extra to get cobalt, and I don't really regret that, But I also prefer to invest in tools.

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    One last thing, I did torque my nuts to the correct torque this time, thank you Doc!

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    Nice work and great info for others. It pays to use the right tools and take your time.

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    Default Re: Busting nuts.



    You had that first bit nicely centered!! The busted stud in the wheel shows it.

    Bravo!

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