Real World Dana 30 Experience

[Brian]

Hey guys, I'm digging the LJ so far and hope to hit some mild trails soon that are close to me for a little shake down. While looking around for the must have/must do upgrades for this Jeep, D30 tech always comes up. From gussets or sleeves to chromo shafts and entire axle swaps for D44's there seems to be no shortage of ways to "buy some peace of mind."

My question is how many of you guys running D30 front axles with 33 to 35 inch tires have had a real world trail failure? I understand every axle has it's limits and with enough abuse can be trashed. I just personally never recall being on the trail and coming across some guy pulling a broken D30 shaft out of his Jeep. While all the above mentioned upgrades do indeed help strengthen the D30, I guess I'm more interested in just how many of those upgrades are really worth it.

[GPP33]

The JK D30 is stronger than the TJ D30, mainly due to being high pinion. I run 35's on my TJ with an ARB and a truss, I have absolutly no worries with it unlocked and just take it easy when it's locked. The 30 has the same u joints as a 44, you can upgrade the shaft and u joint material to gain some strength, I don't think it's worth it on TJ due to the low pinion but might be on a JK. At the end of the day I trust my D30 with 35's but want to upgrade because I dream of 37's and am scared to think about what would happen to a locked D30 with 37's. That said I see lots of non rubi JKs with 37's and I doubt they all have aftermarket axles. If you don't turn too sharp while locked and take it easy on the skinny peddle the HP version under the JK will probably survive with 37s.

I carry spare shafts on trails like HC whenever i know I'm going to need to rely on that front locker but haven't had to use one yet.

[dscowell]

Not running the tires you are looking for but like mentioned above the HP is stronger. XJs came with HP D30 91-99?(86-90 had HP but it's central axle disconnect). Bolt on upgrade if it has the same gear ratio. Can be found for cheap and an easy upgrade if you have the time and tools.

If you aren't rock bouncing you should be fine.

[Jim]

I bought it / didn't build it
1990 Wrangler
HPD30
(I believe) axle upgrades Chromo???
My Central Axle Disconnect is not there - solid axle shaft (not stock).
I have locking hubs (not stock)
ARB (both ends)
35's
No trussing

I have no concerns or interest in changing the axle or upgrading the axle.
No matter what axles I might have I am conscious of not having the drivetrain unload/load with any bounce. With any axle I'd be modest / alert with the skinny pedal.

On the Red Cone trip of 2016 I busted a new, Rugged Ridge locking hub. I was doing a pull while in reverse. I realized this could stress the front, weaker axle but was amazed at how easily / little pull it took to fracture the hub (contradicts my prior "i'm easy with the gas" - eh). The passenger side was a Warn hub - it didn't fail, though it was on the longer axle shaft. Overall, I'd rather have a hub be the weak link - easy and inexpensive to replace. FWIW - on the trail that day, there were a couple times I engaged the front locker - which had only the passenger side wheel getting power to the ground - as rear wheel drive wasn't enough - no other break happened to the axle.

[Java]

I've been running mine stock since I got my LJ with first with 33x12.50 and now 33x10.50. I've never broken anything. I have a truetrac in it, aside from that its all stock, no truss. I carry a spare unit bearing, both shafts with joints, ball joints and gear oil. I have used none of it.

[FINOCJ]

I am running a D27 - which is the weaker, closed knuckle predecessor to the D30. Running 33s and open its never been a problem although its not the most direct comparison to a more modern D30. Most of the early CJs look to the mid70s D30 as a big upgrade, especially if considering a locker and running 35s. I guess no matter what you got, there is always some sort of upgrade.

[dieseldoc]

I beat the hell out of the TJ I had.
33's loved rear.
The D30 is a good axle but has it's limits just like all axles do.
The Rubi D44 is a hybrid axle.
Same outers as the D30 but the D44 carrier.
With 33's you should be fine.
You will want to upgrade the ball joints to fully grease able units. Synergy makes a great set and ressionable priced.
Shafts upgrade if you ever blow one.
Unit bearings have there limits as well.
But mine had 115k mines on them. 65k miles of my driving and wheeling nearly every other weekend. So not to worried about them.
I pulled mine as I was rebuilding the front end.
Kept them as spair's.
You can sleeve the tubes but I have not seen full failures. Bends from launching the truck.
Most common is ball joint failure and unit bearings.

Tell you get into 35+ with a locker these axles perform well.

[Java]

These, diff cover skid and better brakes are the only upgrades I've made to the axle. This price is high, just for an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Ten-Factory-M.../dp/B005TDN2KI

[Brian]

Paul previously posted:

[GPP33]

GPP33 previously posted:

[Brian]

It's stock with no locker, 4.88 gears and stock shafts on 35's.

[Jim]

Paul previously posted:

[Spieg]

Mine is older but still a D30. Been running 35s for a long time without much issue (exploded a hub lock once but you don't have that to worry about). I don't have a locker in the front and wouldn't even consider it on 35s (except maybe with beefier 30-spline internals and D44 outers).

[GPP33]

Spieg previously posted:

[GPP33]

Doink previously posted:

[dieseldoc]

Sounds like you just need be nice with the laud peddle.

[Brian]

GPP33 previously posted:

[dieseldoc]

When the lsd let's go you can add a lot of strength to it.
A set of JK gears will fit.

Check out Jantz engineering.
Look at his K4 kit.

[redneck23ms]

dana 30's are pretty tough for what they are. you just have to know its limitations. don't build it expecting to be able to hammer down with 40's. but with 35's even with a locker they will last. first thing i would do is get a sturdy diff cover. a good diff cover will strengthen the whole center section and help prevent gear damage. personally i'd have no issue with a front locker as long as it has chromo shafts. i've ran several of them locked on 33's-36's and never broke a front shaft. i have stretched the ears out on a couple but caught it in time before the shaft broke.

[jayson44]

same here...TJ on 35s, 4.88s and no locker. stock shafts as far as I can tell. been daily driving it for the last 4 years and wheeling it on occasion. no issues.

I also owned a CJ5 with the dana 30. I dropped a Chevy v8 in it and wheeled it (open, stock gears and shafts) and never had an issue. also had a newer TJ that was on 33s and stock gears with the dana 30. wheeled it often and had no issues.

I think that the 30 is good up to 35s open or locked, as long as you're a conscious wheeler and don't pull stupid moves (too much skinny, hard turns while locked, letting go in high-traction areas, etc). even then, the most that will break is ujoints/ears. I had a buddy with a built YJ who beat the snot out of his 30 for two years before upgrading to a HP44. the only thing he ever broke was ujoints, so he went with RCVs on the new axle and never had an issue again.

J.