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Thread: Rear U-Joint

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    Default Rear U-Joint



    One of the U-joints on the rear driveshaft of my truck keeps squeaking right around 2500-3000 rpm. Above or below that it doesn't make any sound. I had this problem last year and could not pin point it til the U-joint exploded on me. My question is what is causing this? All the U-joints in my truck are a year or newer so none of them should be going bad already right? I will usually grease the U-joint every other month and the noise stops for a week or two then comes back. One thing I'm thinking is my truck only has around 3" lift in the rear but has a C8.25 which has a longer pinion then a D35 so the drive shaft doesn't have a whole lot of room to move. Could the tighter fit be causing premature u-joint wear? I didn't have this problem until I put the C8.25 in my truck.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Sounds like alignment/travel issue.
    Is the pinion angle still with in spec?
    Does the drive shaft have any room for the slip to do it's job?
    Is the phassing of the shaft corect, if it's been split and didn't go back together just right it will cause issues.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Assuming you are installing them correctly and your drive angles are good, a few ideas come to mind...

    Did you measure the length when you swapped the rear end? Could be the drive shaft is too long/short which will stress the u-joint (as well as other components).

    Are you using a good quality replacement u-joint? If it's a greasable unit, you must make sure you pump it full of grease at install and again about every 6 months.

    Does it take a lot of force to install the new u-joints? If the gudgeons are bent out of alignment, it can burn up the bearings in the u-joint caps.

    Could also be the drive shaft is bent a little or somehow out of balance. Although, there is usually a noticeable vibration in this case.
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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Spieg previously posted:
    "Assuming you are installing them correctly and your drive angles are good, a few ideas come to mind...

    Did you measure the length when you swapped the rear end? Could be the drive shaft is too long/short which will stress the u-joint (as well as other components).

    Are you using a good quality replacement u-joint? If it's a greasable unit, you must make sure you pump it full of grease at install and again about every 6 months.

    Could also be the driveshaft is bent a little or somehow out of balance."

    My thoughts as well.
    Something is in a bind thus stressing the joint.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    could also be junk u-joints i had to warranty 2 of the "performance" u-joints or whatever crap brand it was from oreilly after they lasted maybe 500 miles in my jeep. swapped it out for a spicer one and not a problem since. i don't think i ever even bothered to warranty the last one.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Didn't want to go so far as to black the new joint it's self.
    But as Alex has done, I won't use anything but the Spicer parts when it comes to drive lines and front axle shafts.
    Lesson learned long ago.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    dieseldoc previously posted:
    "Is the pinion angle still with in spec?
    Does the drive shaft have any room for the slip to do it's job?
    Is the phassing of the shaft corect, if it's been split and didn't go back together just right it will cause issues."

    Pinion angle should be to spec. I brought it to someone to install my axle.
    That's what I am thinking may be the problem since the pinion on the new axle is an inch longer I think I it isn't giving it enough room to move.
    I have no idea. I haven't messed with the shaft at all so I am assuming it is.



    Spieg previously posted:
    "Assuming you are installing them correctly and your drive angles are good, a few ideas come to mind...

    Did you measure the length when you swapped the rear end? Could be the drive shaft is too long/short which will stress the u-joint (as well as other components).

    Are you using a good quality replacement u-joint? If it's a greasable unit, you must make sure you pump it full of grease at install and again about every 6 months.

    Does it take a lot of force to install the new u-joints? If the gudgeons are bent out of alignment, it can burn up the bearings in the u-joint caps.

    Could also be the drive shaft is bent a little or somehow out of balance. Although, there is usually a noticeable vibration in this case."

    I am assuming the driveshaft is too long due to the new axle. I am just using the stock shaft.
    I just buy the greasable ones from NAPA.
    Nope new u-joints where easily replaced.
    Driveshaft is straight.


    redneck23ms previously posted:
    "could also be junk u-joints i had to warranty 2 of the "performance" u-joints or whatever crap brand it was from oreilly after they lasted maybe 500 miles in my jeep. swapped it out for a spicer one and not a problem since. i don't think i ever even bothered to warranty the last one."

    So what I have collected from all of this is my driveshaft is a the moment too long and it could be due to the NAPA u-joints.

    So now how to fix the problem... new u-joints isn't a problem. Is there any way to get a new driveshaft that is shorter but with out installing a SYE? Installing an SYE would mean adjusting the rear axle pinion angle correct?

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Nope a SYE will only change the area where the slip is and the length of the drive shaft.
    I think you could benefit from the SYE as the stock stuff realy is bad design for sure.
    You could have the current shaft 3rd worked to be shorter, but your best bet....
    Call MOTOBUILT they have a Sweet price on pirate for a SYE and shaft.
    I got mine for $409 shipped.
    He need the anlmount of lift axle mods and will get you the shaft made to spec....

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    A sye really isn't necessary with a mj. Your 2 best options are to either shorten the driveshaft or redrill the spring perches on the axle to move the axle father back.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    So discusion with the senior mechanic at work, we both think the axle is the change thus it is your cause.
    you can move the axle back an inch rather quickly.
    Drop it down re drill the centering hole forward of the existing hole.
    If your issue stays its the pinion angle may be to low
    degree shimms will be thevrix for that.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    dscowell previously posted:
    "I didn't have this problem until I put the C8.25 in my truck."

    I'll agree the problem is associated with the replacement axle, and maybe the longer shackles.

    I'll say this flat-out, in plain english, your drive shaft is not too long.

    All other things being the same, when you lift a vehicle, you effectively move the axle away from the transfer case. At static height, the slip yoke will stick out past the seal. Add weight to the rear, the springs flatten out and move the axle even further away from the transfer case. The inch longer pinion will only help to correct this problem.
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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    redneck23ms previously posted:
    "A sye really isn't necessary with a mj."

    That's what I've read. Rather not go through the work if it is unnecessary.



    dieseldoc previously posted:
    "So discusion with the senior mechanic at work, we both think the axle is the change thus it is your cause.
    you can move the axle back an inch rather quickly.
    Drop it down re drill the centering hole forward of the existing hole.
    If your issue stays its the pinion angle may be to low
    degree shimms will be thevrix for that."

    May solve the problem but it is SUA so it doesn't have a whole lot of room on the spring perches to be moved back or forth.


    Hypoid previously posted:
    "I'll agree the problem is associated with the replacement axle, and maybe the longer shackles.

    I'll say this flat-out, in plain english, your drive shaft is not too long.

    All other things being the same, when you lift a vehicle, you effectively move the axle away from the transfer case. At static height, the slip yoke will stick out past the seal. Add weight to the rear, the springs flatten out and move the axle even further away from the transfer case. The inch longer pinion will only help to correct this problem."

    Okay the drive shaft not being the problem what would it be? need to take the longer shackles out? Just get better quality U-joints?

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Quality ujoints is a big deal.

    I would be looking into the pinion angle as well.

    Are the joint only having issues on the lower jo892nd or is it both?
    Next is are you having issues with just one half the joint?
    Like just the cups on the pinion side or is it the whole joint?

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Definitely a lot to be said for quality parts. The grease you use can make a huge difference too.
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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    disconnect the driveshaft from the rear diff. with the u-joing sitting in the yoke can you push the driveshaft forward at least an inch? if so your driveshaft isn't too long. brandon has a good point about it being just one side of the joing being bad or not. overtightening the u-bolts can cause premature failure. i would start off by checking to see if the driveshaft is too long and swapping the u-joints for spicers. and see where that gets you.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Spicer parts = quality parts.
    Napa joints are Spicer just packaged in a Napa box.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    dieseldoc previously posted:
    "Are the joint only having issues on the lower jo892nd or is it both?
    Next is are you having issues with just one half the joint?
    Like just the cups on the pinion side or is it the whole joint?"

    I have no clue if it's just part or all of the joint. How could I tell? I'll be replacing the joint regardless but when I am replacing it what should I look for?

    redneck23ms previously posted:
    "overtightening the u-bolts can cause premature failure."

    I tighten them down evenly and snug but not to the point where it would be too much.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Birneling- look for lines burned into the cross of the u joint.
    This will be from the bearings not moving inside the cap.
    Generally this will be from not being lubricated properly.
    But if a cup is to tight or not straight then the needles will bind.
    This could be your issue.

    When you pull things apart spin the cups and twist the cross you will find your bind.
    If you have a ear on the shaft that is bent it will cause bind as well.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    Thank you. When I get around to replacing it either this week or next I'll take some pictures and post them on here.

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    Default Re: Rear U-Joint



    cool hope this all helped out.

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