WTD: Tilt Steering Column for 1990 Wrangler

[Jim]

Last I was out (cleanup run) I was dealing with a quite unusual "floppy steering wheel". Researching the issue, I came across the fact that this is a COMMON issue with GM/Saginaw tilt steering columns - just disassemble down to the tilt junction and tighten the four torx bolts. I did and it was still OVERLY loose - enough that I didn't reassemble the column. Bottom line - the metal of the steering column tube is broken (due to the bolts being loose for too long [learned a lesson in Life 101]).

End run - the steering column tube needs to be replaced and if such, it's likely that a junk yard tilt column assembly might be the best route. I've not visited a junk yard in many years and am looking for suggestions on a good route for a replacement (which junk yard should I call upon??). Close to FoCo is a pref.

Thoughts?

[94ToyBear]

Ouch! Hard find in the yards these days.
Is there any chevy truck this can be replaced with?

[FINOCJ]

Jeeps Unlimited near Erie has been promoting their new ownership and some YJs they got. FN jeep in CSprings would be worth checking - we could probably find a collection of us to shuttle the part up to you to save some driving.

[Spieg]

Not 100% sure, but I've read that YJ column is almost identical to the ones used in XJs (and those are plentiful at most salvage yards).

[Jim]

You're making me think I might be better off having the broken part from my steering column tube welded back into place...

I'll give Erie a call first.

[Hypoid]

Spieg previously posted:

[Hypoid]

Too many variables, PM inbound...

[carpenle]

I had the same issue with the black XJ you helped me with. I just put in a JY column, but I wonder if Ebay would have anything? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-1995-Je...dXH2kF&vxp=mtr

[Hypoid]

Jim previously posted:

[Jim]

Jeep's Unlimited in Eerie had one non-tilt and one tilt. My eyes opened wide with the $400 cost for tilt over $300 non-tilt. In the end, I want the job done and I do enjoy tilt so I said yes to them.

I was told it'd be pulled by 11am the next morning. "Should I call to check that it's ready?, No, it'll be ready by 11." I stopped down around 3 or 3:30 and while I walked in and was immediately cared for, it was about an hour before I was able to walk out. Online, there are mixed reviews. My impression is a mixed bag too.

This weekend I wrapped up (famous last words) the dash wiring clean-up and steering column swap. The steering column swap is quite easy (30 minutes out / 30 to 40 minutes install).

The PO re-wired wiper motor wiring was cleaned up a bit. Intermittent / Low / High work (though they did prior). Put the key in and turn to On - all lights on the dash come up. I turn on the parking lights - the fuse does NOT blow / I have good tail lights. Push to start - nothing. Not even a starter solenoid click. I'm 99.9% there's an issue with the starter wiring circuit at the steering column, but the battery is only showing 10vDC.

The Jeep will likely see a new battery tomorrow. Dash volt meter showed 10vDC. Battery date code is 10/09 (for what I take as a date code) so a seven year life is good by me. I did run the battery completely flat a time or two in the past couple weeks (leaving under-dash lights on). I put the battery on a charger and just tested starting - nothing - so I'll be reviewing the steering column's starter solenoid circuit. If nothing else, I can wire a temporary "start" button into it

I can post broken parts pix later. Bottom line: The four bolts at the base of the tilt assembly - holding it onto the top end of the straight, steel steering column itself became too loose. This stressed the steel of the end of the steering column. I have a 1/4" wide, 1/2 round junk of steering column steel on my desk. I also noticed that the "pot metal" that is part of the non-movable / steering column side is also fractured / not completely broken into pieces but is still "broken". If I was without any steering column option I think I could have had the steel part welded and the other failing part might have been OK enough so long as the four bolts remained tight.

[dieseldoc]

Jim glad you found a replacement.
Jeeps Unlimited is a decent place.

Hope you are back on the trails soon.

[Spieg]

Sounds like solid progress. Hope they didn't sell you a column with a wiring/switch issue.

Just as a general FYI to those with Saginaw tilt columns - avoid the temptation to use the wheel as a grab bar to get in /out of the vehicle. They're not built for the stress... especially common with lifted vehicles (no they didn't build them strong enough to do chin-ups).

[Jim]

Thx for the tip. It did cause me to think - do I use it / put force upon it - I don't think so. I think I have both hands on the above head roll bar to get in/out.

If the switch is bad, I should be able to move the switch from my column to this w/o bothering to remove the column from the vehicle.

[carpenle]

Glad to hear you are on the down hill side of the project Jim.

[Jim]

The jeep's on the road, which is great.

Tail light circuit still blows (only when at idle - when running it stays good). The circuit is likely right near the 20amp fuse limit. I will need to do more work to track down the issue.

[carpenle]

Jim previously posted:

[Jim]

I think the issue is that when the voltage drops, amperage draw increases. The fuse is amp limited and blows. If I used the hand throttle to limit my low rpm to 1200, that might be enough to keep volts up enough to not blow a fuse. Though, long term - I need to find the cause.

[Spieg]

Have you got a trailer wiring pigtail installed by chance? That has been an issue for me in the past.

[Jim]

Spieg previously posted: