Jeep Clutch Sound

[Brad]

Sorry it was such a pain Paul! This sailed under my radar or I would have come over to help. Glad you got it sorted.

[Java]

Got the transmission wrapped up, new bearing, pivot, fork and all. Replaced the fluid with Royal Purple, it all went well. Then I went to drain and refill the transfercase with Mobil 1 per the Novak recommendation and found that the harmonic balancer is damaged. That's messed up because its way up out of the way above a skid plate and I've never had rear driveshaft damage. But it looks like it got hit from the front somehow and the rubber is broken and the whole assembly is askew, it rotates like a bent Frisbee on the shaft. This is truly Murphy's Clutch.

$140.00 surprise http://www.morris4x4center.com/dampe...FQ8yaQodaGwOjQ

So no anniversary run for me. :(

[Java]

just FYI I found a great answer on what the vibration damper on the transfercase output shaft from 2000-2006 does here http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-shor...sfer-case.html from one of the engineers that worked on it:

"It was used for two reasons. It was to dampen a low frequency vibration coming from the T-case. If memory serves correct it is 55hz. It also takes the place of the tin washer in the slinger seal. the one that the flared rubber seal rides against. This damper is also used on some XJ's. It was designed by the Hillsdale Tool division of Eagle Picher Automotive, for New Venture Gear in Syracuse NY. I was the engineer that set-up the production line on this part. Two double spindle cnc lathes, and an assembly press to put the rubber in. Oh yeah, a vertical cnc machining center to drill and tap those dreaded puller holes. They were hard to keep in the right position because they are very close to the rim of the hub. I think I have a part at home, and I'm sure I have prints of it still. FYI, there is a very similar damper on Libertys also. "

[dieseldoc]

Dam it man, just one thing after another.
Sorry you,won't be out for the anniversary run.

[Jim]

BUMMER!!!

[Java]

it is what it is, I just keep thinking of an easy summer with a lot of new parts not failing on the trail. The goal is to be ready for Moab 4/1!

[dieseldoc]

All you can do is keep plugging away at it.
Might be time for SYE as you have a bent ballencer....

[Java]

Everything happens for a reason. I found this u joint this morning, lower front driveshaft. It would have broken down on the trail today, no doubt about it. The caps were so frozen on I had to use PB Blaster, vice grips and a hammer to open it up. Glad I missed the anniversary run, turns out atleast part of it would have sucked for me!

[Hypoid]

Was that a "lifetime lubricated" U-joint? Looks like it had a good life!

[Jim]

Good you found that U-Joint and pulled it from service!

Does your front DS spin when you're in 2HI? If yes, failure looked to be close at hand.

[Java]

it was an "unserviceable" one, but I just pull the caps off of those and grease them individually. IDK if it rotates the entire time, but it was frozen, rusted and dry. I have no idea what might have caused that...

[Jim]

IMO, you have your head screwed on straight - one sacrificed u-joint - that pic is worth it!

[dieseldoc]

wow man, the deeper you go the worse it seems to get.
Glad you are getting it done before Moab.
Now you should have a good trip with no failures.

We had a good day out at China wall.
Maybe next year Paul.

[Java]

got it all done, ready to install it this weekend. The damper cost $12.60 to pull, had to buy 6 6mm bolts and connector sleeves to make long enough bolts for the puller. While it was off I replaced the seal behind it. The end of the shaft is tapped for a 3/8 bolt for whatever reason, so I took advantage of that and made a simple tool from a bolt, washers, nut and a short piece of tube with a washer welded to the end. I heated the center of the new damper with a heat gun (figured the torch would be too much for the rubber) froze the shaft with mixed vegetables and greased it lightly. The damper pressed on easily. I also replaced the bad ujoint with a new ACDelco made in the USA greaseable one. Added a like spare to my kit too, and cleaned up every bolt associated with this on my bench grinder with a wire wheel.

Hopefully it goes together smoothly this weekend. I'm replacing the CPS while it's out, the good used one goes in my spares. I have ball joints and axle seals coming for next week, cage metal and a tune up. I'm trying to hit everything before the trails open.

[xaza]

Dang Paul, Jeep has decided to push your potential and patience. Get er done, only a couple weeks until Moab.

[Patrolman]

Glad that you decided to do this yourself. I can't imagine what a shop would charge to do all the same work!

[dieseldoc]

he would be,3k into it,at a shop.

[Java]

Lots of progress today, the transmission, transfercase, linkage and new clutch master / slave installed. The slave has some straps on it that break on the first use, I almost screwed up and cut them but decided to read about it first and saved myself a headache- it's a pre-bled system, and if you cut those the rod goes too far out and air gets in. Just a heads up, it's the same part on JKs too. I also replaced the annoying E 14 bolts with some graded ones from ACE that have a standard 14mm head. Easy as pie to put in, should come out easily too. Everything got cleaned on a wire wheel and hit with blue Loctite where appropriate. Found some other small stuff- mangled electrical wrap on the O2 sensor wiring (did it's job, the wiring is fine!) some rust and loose stuff, all easy but time consuming. I ran out of gas before I got to the driveshafts and skids, but its all downhill from here. I'm just under $500.00 total, about $440.00 in parts. I'm glad it's getting done, but if I had it over again I'd just get a new hobby.

[Patrolman]

Did the new bolts have enough thread on them?

[Java]

Yes, almost like they were made for it. The unthreaded part is virtually the same as the thickness of the transmission case plus a small bracket for holding electrical wiring in place that goes on each bolt. I'm not sure why they used an E 14 or a fully threaded bolt to begin with.