"Even though it is hydraulic, there should still be an adjustment on the pedal. If it is out of adjustment one direction, it can wear out the throwout bearing prematurely (most common). If it is out of adjustment the other direction the gears can be difficult to shift (less likely). The FSM should give the measurements for the pedal and how to adjust it."
Chicken dinner!!
Just ordered a new rod from Moparpartsgiant.com to address this.
I found this here:
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84046
Ok so apparently there is a TSB concerning incorrect factory preload on
throw-out bearing.
Adding a washer or spacer to the
pivot stud. Extending the pivot side of the forks and increasing the angle to the slave cylinder, to create more clearance between Throw-out bearing and pressure plate springs. At least that is what I gather from the TSB.
This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for
repair
. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,
or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without written permission of DaimlerChrysler Corporation.
SUBJECT:
Squeal-Like Sound Due To Incorrect Pre-Load On
Clutch Throw-Out Bearing
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves diagnosing the clutch throw-out bearing for an incorrect pre-load
condition and making the appropriate
repairs.
MODELS:
2007 (JK) Wrangler
2006 (TJ) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a NSG370 manual
transmission (sales code DEH).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience a squeal-like sound coming from the clutch throw-out
bearing when the clutch pedal is fully released.
DIAGNOSIS:
1. Firmly set the
vehicle parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. Depress the clutch pedal and start the vehicle
engine.
4. With the transmission in neutral, release the clutch pedal
5. Is a squeal-like sound present and is it coming from the
clutch throw-out bearing?
a. If YES >>> then proceed to the next step.
b. If NO >>> then this bulletin does not apply. Further diagnosis is required.
6. With the transmission in neutral and engine running, slowly depress the clutch pedal.
NOTE: If the pre-load is incorrect on the throw-out bearing, then the squeal-like
sound should stop when the clutch pedal is depress by an inch or more.
7. Does the
throw-out bearing squeal-like sound disappear once the clutch pedal is
depressed by an inch or more?
a. If YES >>> then perform the Repair Procedure
b. If NO >>> then this Bulletin does not apply. The squeal-like sound is not caused by
incorrect pre-load on the throw-out bearing. Further diagnosis is required.
NUMBER: 06-002-07
GROUP: Clutch
DATE: February 27, 2007
PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty. Part No. Description
1 68031889AA Rod, Clutch Slave Cylinder Actuator (TJ)
2 06100882 Washer, Spacer (JK)
(AR) 2 04874464 Lubricant, Mopar Manual Transmission (MS-9224) -
(JK)
1 04318032 Adhesive, Stud N' Bearing Mount (JK)
(AR) 1 53008342 Bearing, Throw-out (JK)
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
TJ PROCEDURE:
1. With the vehicle transmission a neutral position, raise the vehicle on a suitable lift.
2. Remove the mounting nuts used to secure the slave cylinder to the transmission bell
housing.
3. As an assembly, remove the slave cylinder, hydraulic line, and actuator rod from the
transmission bell housing.
4. Replace the slave cylinder actuator rod.
5. Install the slave cylinder to the transmission bell housing.
6. Verify that the actuator rod is properly seated to the clutch release fork.
7. Install the slave cylinder mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Verify clutch system operates correctly.
JK PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the manual transmission. Refer to TechCONNECT for detailed removal
procedures. Select the Service Info tab > 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case >
Manual Transmission -
NSG370 > Removal.
2. Remove the clutch throw-out bearing and clutch release fork from the transmission.
3. Remove the clutch release fork pivot stud with cone washer from the transmission.
4. Inspect the pivot stud and cone washer closely. Note the orientation of the cone
washer on the pivot stud (opens towards transmission housing).
5. Clean the release fork pivot stud threads.
6. Noting cone washer orientation, remove the existing cone washer from the
pivot stud
and install the two (2) new washers (as spacers) to the pivot stud.
7. Install the existing cone washer on to the
release fork pivot stud. Verify that the cone
washer opens towards the transmission housing.
8. Apply Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive to the threads of the release fork pivot.
9. Install the release fork pivot (with 2 washers and 1 cone washer) to the transmission.
Tighten the fork pivot to 20 Nm (14.75 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: The cone washer should be against the transmission housing and
under/below the two spacing washers when pivot stud is installed to
transmission.
10. Lubricate the input shaft splines,
throw-out bearing retainer slide surface, release fork
and
release fork pivot surface.
06-002-07 -2-
11. Inspect the throw-out bearing. Rotate the bearing to determine if bearing rotation is
smooth or rough. Replace the throw-out bearing if bearing rotation is rough.
12. Install the release fork and throw-out bearing to the transmission.
13. Install the manual transmission. Refer to TechCONNECT for detailed removal
procedures. Select the Service Info tab > 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case >
Manual Transmission - NSG370 > Installation.
14. Verify
transmission fluid level.
15. Verify clutch system operates correctly.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
06-40-05-90 Replace - Hydraulic Clutch
Actuator Rod - TJ (B)
0.4 Hrs.
06-40-05-91 Replace - Clutch Release
Bearing and Add Shims - JK 4x2
(B)
2.4 Hrs.
06-40-05-92 Replace - Clutch Release
Bearing and Add Shims -
JK 4x4
(B)
3.5 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE:
ZZ Service Action
-3- 06-002-07
Re: Jeep Clutch Sound
I'm going to replace the clutch pivot and input seal along with the fork, springs and bearing. You can see the old clutch next to the new one, the LUK is thicker and has a lot more surface area and some visible differences that are all in favor of the LUK. It feels better all around compared to the OEM which has the brand name Sachs on it. You can see what failed in the throwout bearing, the plastic liner disintergrated. I put the options next to it, smaller plastic or solid steel, seems like a NB.
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