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Thread: Xterra

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Brad previously posted:
    "My SOP with any visual coolant issue is to pressure test the system. Do you need a new radiator?"

    Turns out we did, good call!! It had been in a front end collision before we bought it, but thanks to the Certified Pre-Owned warranty we got a brand new radiator. And that's why you're the mechanic!!

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    Default Re: Xterra



    Nice! Love it when warranty covers repairs. Unless I'm getting paid to do the repair.

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Xterra



    just updated the wife's kit, the only things not shown are a folding shove and folding saw:

    Tool roll
    tire kit
    compressor
    recovery strap
    manual
    jumper cables
    duct tape
    hose tape
    bailing wire
    cable ties
    hose clamps
    short rope
    WD-40
    flashlight
    gloves
    towels

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Looks good.

    Band-aides or paper towels or a rag?

  5. #25
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    Default Re: Xterra



    seperate first aid kit

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Got some great deals on open box / never installed monotube shocks and struts: Bilstien 4600 for the front, KYB Gas-A-Just for the rear. Just under $200.00 including a spring compressor. A lot of people on the Xterra forums prefer the KYBs to the Bilsteins in the rear, we'll see. Everyone likes the Bilsteins upfront. After 68,000 miles including dozens of trails and dirt roads the OEM Nissan stuff is done, these should be a big upgrade.

    Also put Falken Wildpeak ATW3s on last year and they've been flawless everywhere, and really shine in the snow. They track straight on snowy trails, better than my BFGs.

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    Default Re: Xterra



    Replaced the rear shocks with KYB monotubes today, what a difference. After just 68k the OEM shocks were so shot that I can compress them by hand easily, and I compressed one, put it down and did the other; in the pic you can see how far the first one rebounded in that time, which was not far or fast. Can't wait to do the front Bilsteins tonight or tomorrow and try it out!

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    Default Re: Xterra



    I also have a friend who rolled his Xterra of that generation. He was up on the flattops and was on some washboard gravel road and rolled it in a curve at like 20mph.

  9. #29
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Washboards can be tough, they can whip the back end around so fast it's hard to react in time. People can roll anything- last year someone rolled a mustang on 29th avenue just west of Lowell, on a flat open stretch with no close intersections. It was early morning and a single car accident.

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    Default Re: Xterra



    Paul previously posted:
    "Can't wait to do the front Bilsteins tonight or tomorrow and try it out!"

    Are you thinking of the bilstein 5100s? Been thinking of replacing the shocks on my Taco 150k and still running the oem bilsteins...
    ___________
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  11. #31
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    Default Re: Xterra



    I put the fronts in today, what a bear of a job. Nothing wanted to come off. The bolts holding the top of the strut to the mounting plate were difficult, I used a heat gun and penetrating oil, hammer, vice grips, finally got both. You can't use an impact, you have to hold the end of the strut or it spins. Spring compressors always make me nervous too, but that went well.

    James, save your money and get the 4600 if you're not lifting it, the 4600 and the 5100 are the same shock, one for stock height, the other for lifted. If I do lift the Xterra down the road I'm going to use a strut spacer / extended shackle so these will be fine. I don't actually plan on lifting it, it does great on trails as it, and since we have the Jeep there's not much point. You also might want to consider buying an assembly with new springs at that mileage, and to save yourself a decent headache taking the old ones off.

    www.bilstein.com/us/en/faq/

    "
    Good question! Our B6 4600 shock is for stock height vehicles while the B8 5100 are for lifted/leveled applications. If your truck is at stock ride height you would want to use our B6 4600 shock. If you have lift components installed on your truck and need a longer shock then you would want to use the B8 5100’s. Both shocks are equally as durable and neither is better than the other."



  12. #32
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Looks good! coil overs are a PITA...Great info on the shocks - I am thinking 5100s on the front so i can lengthen the front 3/4 of inch by moving the snap ring and get a bit more level ride height - plus I get just a bit of rub at full compression when the wheels are turned to lock in either direction (I run a slightly oversized tire compared to oem). The 4800s would be good for the rear. It would be way easier to replace the entire coil-over and improve ride quality etc, but the price is too much for my budget. I shoulda bought somebody's barely used take-offs a few years ago put them in storage until I needed them (people were dumping them for nothing when installing lift kits)...probably could still find some decent ones, but at this point, its been quite a few years since my taco generation was made. The new generation won't work I don't think (but more research would be needed).
    ___________
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    Default Re: Xterra



    I like that tool roll. I might have to explore that option for my rig. My tool backpack is a bit overboard. Plus I find I take the tools back out of the vehicle.

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    Default Re: Xterra



    I have individual bag in my bed box.
    One for tools, one for meds & clean cloths, one for cooking & One for utensils & condiments.
    i also have my oh ***** bag. (Everything needed to survive 24hours alone on a mountain )
    ___________
    In a never ending search for the proper mix of dirt & rock !

  15. #35
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Since I have all sorts of time on my hands, a video about shocks and struts.


  16. #36
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    Default Re: Xterra



    FINOCJ previously posted:
    "Looks good! coil overs are a PITA...Great info on the shocks - I am thinking 5100s on the front so i can lengthen the front 3/4 of inch by moving the snap ring and get a bit more level ride height - plus I get just a bit of rub at full compression when the wheels are turned to lock in either direction (I run a slightly oversized tire compared to oem). The 4800s would be good for the rear. It would be way easier to replace the entire coil-over and improve ride quality etc, but the price is too much for my budget. I shoulda bought somebody's barely used take-offs a few years ago put them in storage until I needed them (people were dumping them for nothing when installing lift kits)...probably could still find some decent ones, but at this point, its been quite a few years since my taco generation was made. The new generation won't work I don't think (but more research would be needed)."

    Have you considered KYB Gas-A-Justs? I put them in the rear and just sitting side by side with Bilstein struts they were both nice, no negatives to either that I could see. A set for your Tacoma is pretty cheap even at full retail, and if you wanted to raise the front strut spacers for Tacomas are readily available: https://www.shocksurplus.com/product...SABEgL6TvD_BwE

    The guy in this video helped me decide when I was researching if they were a good idea and not just a good price:


  17. #37
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Started hearing a light clunk from the passenger front on bumps, found a bad bushing in the upper control arm. The arm comes as an assembly with a new balljoint. It was surprisingly easy to replace, just two bolts and the ball joint nut, all three came out without drama.

  18. #38
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    Default Re: Xterra



    Nice! pressing the bushings into my axle when we replaced the upper control arms on the Jeep in the fall was a chore.

  19. #39
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    Default Re: Xterra



    I'm sure it was a lot of work, they always are. The new arm was only $90.00, bushings and a ball joint would be about $60.00, so it wasn't really much of a decision.

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    Default Re: Xterra



    The clunk did not go away, infact it got worse, so I ended up replacing both from sway bar end links and the lower control arm. The LCA was a total *****, I spent a few hours cutting one of the bolts off. I had to cut through the hardened sleeve as well, and there was not a lot of room for it. the other end I cut where the nut was. Three titanium dremel bits and five sawzall Thick Metal blades later it's out and replaced, the noise is gone.

    I'll put up better pics, here's the bolt and LCA for now. It passed all the balljoint tests aside from making a noise on bumps, but did turn out to be the problem. I believe it was the bushing around the seized bolt I cut off that was causing the noise, it was twisted inside the arm and locked tight to the bolt.

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