I think this counts.
Pete's skids didn't hold up - this is where one of the support bolts was attached. I do have the piece that fits there so I think it's repairable. Reading around the web I find mostly JB Weld fixes.
Opinions? Suggestions?
I think this counts.
Pete's skids didn't hold up - this is where one of the support bolts was attached. I do have the piece that fits there so I think it's repairable. Reading around the web I find mostly JB Weld fixes.
Opinions? Suggestions?
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Chris in Florida
Ouch !!!!
JB weld or a good TIG ??
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In a never ending search for the proper mix of dirt & rock !
The skid should never have been attached there which is one of those things I learned the hard way. There's a small "protector" that bolts on there which I won't need with my new skid plates. Is JB Weld reliable enough? I've used it on less significant parts without any problems and suspect it would be okay since there's nothing bolting on there to stress it.
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Chris in Florida
While I can't tell what I'm looking at exactly I have a feeling it's cast aluminum. Can you weld in cast aluminum? Obviously I'm not a good enough welder to know.
It's my transfer case Tom. It is cast aluminum which can be welded by someone with the right skills and equipment but tends to be pretty expensive. Oddly enough I used to be the designated aluminum welder when I worked in a sheet metal shop.
I'm going to go with JB Weld and see how it goes. Since there's a part that bolts in there that Toyota calls a "protector" that wraps around the bottom I've decided to use that as a "clamp" to add strength and help support it.
Then I'll put my real skids on and cross my fingers.
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Chris in Florida
JB it!
While it is a drivetrain part, it's not a CRITICAL issue if the plug fails. Plus, you can fairly easily perform a visual on it at each stop.
Should the plug fail, 2-High for most of the driving (slowly) and then 4-Lo for those short spots that need it - until you can repair it again.
Hmmm - When you are in 2-Hi does the front driveshaft turn? Do your front wheels unlock? If the front DS always spins, lube is more important.
Yeah, my idea too Jim but it is technically AWD.
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Chris in Florida
It appears that the hole is below the fluid level plug? If it is below the plug level, then it will always be at risk for leaking, even if parked. In that case, I wouldn't JB weld. If it is above the fill plug, the JB is probably OK. If you go that route, carry some in the tool box. I already carry some just in case.
Personally, how I would fix it would be to replace the cover. It appears to be the rear cover in the pics. I imagine it is a matter of removing the rear flange to remove the cover. Unsure how/where you would find a replacement though. A long shot would be to find someone who trashed their gearset or did some other damage to the t-case.
Yep, that's my plan but it's not going to sit until I find one which is why I'll patch it tomorrow.
Good point Jeff, it is close to the bottom of the case.
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Chris in Florida
I browsed online real quick and found cases as low as $250-300 used. Not a bad investment considering a tow costs a lot more.
If you JB weld it for now, I would drain it first. Hopefully no parts went in the case. Regardless you need to refill it with fluid, so at a minimum make sure it is fresh. Also maybe consider a heavier weight like a 90w. I assume stock is 75w synthetic?
I think tig welding it would be almost impossible as you would have to remove it from the vehicle, tear it all apart to get the case clean enough of impurities to get a decent weld on it. JB below fluid level is a very dicey proposition. As a technician my advice is to find a replacement.
What about a Marlin/Inchworm lefty t-case? This guy put one in a similar model 4Runner.
http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19
Here is a guy on CL with one for $150. The actuator went bad, which from what I was reading is common. Since all you need is the cover, this could be a good option.
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4406712448.html
Oh, and am I ever glad that my t-case is gear driven with a lever and no electronics.
Yeah right, did you read his whole build? Solid axle and all? I'm familiar with him from the 4Runner forums - he's got more skills and disposable income than I ever will.
Where did you find the used ones you mentioned Jeff?
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Chris in Florida
I think you can swap out just the t-case without doing all the other work. I would just want to confirm that the electronics won't have an issue.
I was looking at car-part.com. It would have to be shipped of course. Here is what I found:
http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.c...ey=&userPage=3
Make sure you take a look at the one on CL that I posted.
Whoa, I missed the CL link. I'll try to get hold of him. Thanks!
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Chris in Florida
There's your case!
Yep, just finished with him, picking it up Wednesday.
Now to figure out how to swap them.
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Chris in Florida
Well, I was going to offer to try to tig it for you, (or let you use my tig, since you were the aluminum welder!) but a replacement is probably a better idea and it looks like you already found one.