Ford axle questions.

[AccordRanger]

So I'm thinking I may go full width on the sploder. Getting tired of all the bs with the rack and pinion. It's on it's third one and wanders like crazy. Plus I have been wanting to sas it for years.

So I'm wanting full widths. What are good axles to look for in Fords? Dana 44 front and 60 rear? I would like full floats if possible. What would be easier to swap leaf spung or coil?
Planning on keeping it basic not gonna go all fancy with coil overs.

Any info is appreciated so I can start looking when I go to yards.

[Serious Offroad]

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

[Haku]

It depends on how big you want to go tire wise honestly.

35's or maybe even 37's, go with the 44 and don't look back. There are probably other options in about the same size range.

If you want to go bigger or want something bombproof, then find a Dana 50/60 or similar.

I'm finding out that building up a Dana 44, or in my case Toyota stuff, isn't that much cheaper then building up a Dana 60. Its a bit more spendy, but stuff like Lockers, shafts, and high steer kits are all about the same price or just slightly higher for the 60 sized stuff. The main thing that would be more expensive is the donor axle itself, but since the Explorer is Driver drop you could probably find one out of a F250/350 or Dodge 1 ton for not too much money (in my experience the rare and expensive ones are the chevy ones with passenger drop).

Trade offs for Dana 60 is the larger differential that might catch on rocks a bit more, but most see it as a good trade to make for more strength.

I hear good things about the Ford 8.8's and how strong they are. I'd still probably try to get a matching set of axles so you don't have to worry about having two different lug patterns on the rig though. The Sterling 10.25/10.5 in the backs of Fords are super stout and would be a worthy upgrade too.

If its easy to go 40's with the body work, then at least IMHO, its worth going with 1 ton stuff to start out with. Not many people I have talked to really regret doing so, but you see a lot of guys upgrade after using 1/2 ton stuff.

[AccordRanger]

Haku previously posted:

[Serious Offroad]

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana60.htm

[Fordguy77]

The 99 should have sterlings which are every bit as good as 60d just a bit harder to find parts for. I may have a set of hp Dana 44 and matching 9 up for sale in the next month or 2.

[The StRanger]

Id say 35s are borderline. and, I think a lot depends on enginr size & HP..

[gm4x4lover]

What ever you get make sure it has the vss sensor in the top.

[Haku]

AccordRanger previously posted:

[The StRanger]

If I recall, the D44 out of a cher or Grand Cher is the same WMS to WMS
If ya wnwa go full you'll need one out of a 78/79 F150 or F250

[Haku]

Didn't see the question about the 99 F250.

My 99 has a Dana 50 front and Sterling 10.5 rear (comparable to a 14 bolt in strength). Doing the reading, any solid axle 99 and up will be either a Dana 50 or 60 in the front (I think it switched over in hte middle of 2000 or 2001), and they all have the Sterling in the rear. I can't say on anything before that since I've been focusing on the generation I own and Chevy stuff (since it matches to my Toyota). Plenty of info in that thread above, and the Dana 60 bible on Pirate4x4 too... http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic...nt_Axle_Bible/

[gm4x4lover]

The StRanger previously posted:

[Haku]

gm4x4lover previously posted:

[gm4x4lover]

Jeep guys can make 44 live for ever in front. An explorer would be similar, not alot of weight, not a ton of power, not super low range and tons and tons and tons of aftermarket support. Plus I dont think his goal would be humongous tires. Not to mention a 44 is incredibly cheap to buy and build compaired to a 60. I made a 10bolt front live for a really long time under a full size with 37's, super low gears, and a locker in the front I am sure an explorer wouldnt be any harder on it.

[Haku]

I guess so. I'm just finding that when you get to the point where you start upgrading a 44 for strength, you could have gotten the 60 for the same price and just ran it. He has already said he will use 37's and might go bigger if he can fit them. The explorer might not be huge, but t certainly isn't lightweight either at ~4000lb. curb weight. Add bigger tires, bumpers and all that other stuff we bring with us and you are getting to 5000 pretty easily.

I guess all I'm saying is if you can find a 1 ton axle for only a little bit more money, its worth it IMHO, especially if you are gonna go with the Sterling axle. To me, its the difference between having to worry about it whether it will break, and not having to do so. To get to that point with the 44, you'd have to run chromoly shafts and other strength upgrades, but the 1 ton should be just fine without that stuff. Lockers are similar in price, as are high steer kits and other small bits.

I'll see how it does, but I've been going through this worry with my Toyota stuff lately. If I had spent the money upgrading a 1 ton axle instead of going with my FJ80 axle setup, I'd be into it about the same but with a stronger setup that I can beat on without worrying about it. Initial cost of the donor axle is higher, but you don't have to spend money on the fancy stuff to get to the same strength.

Seems to me if he's gonna go Dana 44 in the front, might as well just stick with the Ford 8.8 instead of the Sterling. Its one thing if you rig already has the 44 under it, but if you are gonna buy an axle and spend money on it, you might as well go with the "end game" setup. A cursory look through Craigslist found a few examples of very expensive Ford Dana 60 stuff and the same for 44's, but overall it seemed that the 60 stuff was only slightly higher then the full width Dana44 stuff.

End of the day, its not my call I guess. I just think going stronger from the start has paid off for me in the past and not doing so has sent me down the more expensive path of having to upgrade two different axles at twice the price.

[gm4x4lover]

I agree with you Josh. Build it once is cheaper than build it, break it, fix it, up grade it. The ford 60 stuff is the way to go, the dodge stuff isnt really that great. They have alot of the same issues as the jeep 30's. One of the reasons I saw that he wanted to swap in full withs was to ditch the ifs and rack and pinion. Which is smart. And there is really a big difference in game in running 37's as opposed to 40's. Either way id love to see the end result. Something different is always cool.

[The StRanger]

X2 With nick & Josh. Id rather find a F250 to pull the matching axles & run them..