RE Super Flex tools to loan. Arvada.

[06HokieTJ]

Bit the bullet and bought the small and large RE superflex control arm rebuild tools.


Hit me up if you want/need to borrow either for a nominal fee (read: Coors Banquet)

[06HokieTJ]

As an update. I rebuilt all 8 SuperFlexCA's, old style (non-hourglass) with a borrowed Ball Joint tool from Advanced Auto. Used my 1/2" drive impact and basic hand tools. Wasn't really fun, but I was able to make it happen. Would be a PITA without an impact, but you could do it.

[Hypoid]

Wow!

Are those stock bushings?

[06HokieTJ]

Stock replacements pressed into the RE arms

[xaza]

they should look familiar Mike, you pressed mine in earlier this year

[06HokieTJ]

I rebuilt both ends, but didn't take any pics of the RE superflex end as there are several sites about it. I used Stu's site as a good reference for rebuilding the RE SuperFlex ends. I did learn (by the 4th-5th frickin' end! lol) that you didn't need to take out the snap-ring. I replaced all of the grease zerks as the old grease was rock hard in them (which probably caused my JJ/Superflex balls to get dry and wear really bad).

For the Clevite bushing side I did the following steps:
1) press out metal sleeve/bushing
2) press/hammer/cut/pry out rubber bushing
3) open up a hand saw, slip blade through bushing eyelet, reinstall blade on handsaw
4) score ID of metal sleeve that is pressed into the arm
5) use a BFH, chisel (two, actually, one big one small) and a flat blade screwdriver to whack/distort the metal sleeve enough that it could be pressed out
6) smooth, clean and lightly oil/grease the ID of the RE arm
7) clean/lightly oil new clevite bushing
8) use various adapters on the loaned BJ press to start pushing in the new clevite bushing (my 18V Makita 1/2" drive impact was worht its weight in Gold on this step!)
9) use more various adapters to get the bushing going in
10) drink beer... cuss... grunt... swear... groan... and use more creativity and various adapters/spacers/etc. to get bushings seated

Repeat... for 8 fricking arms (well, 6 actually, as the front UCA's only have SuperFlex joints, as the bushings are pressed in the axle housing)

[06HokieTJ]

I was also able to press out the upper A-Arm bushings and install new ones on my WJ using a loaned BJ press. Without an impact. While living in an apt downtown.

Quite amazing how versatile those auto-store/HF BJ presses are! lol

[Hypoid]

xaza previously posted:

[06HokieTJ]

Hypoid previously posted:

[06HokieTJ]

More info specific to the joints if anyone cares...

Stock replacement bushings for the frame side of the arms. Replacement RE UHMW bearing races from 4WP for the SuperFlex joints... And two replacement RE johnny joint balls. They were so worn/pitted/grooved, that I couldn't use them. See pics below.

For the lowers:
AutoZone Part Number: FB543
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=89642_0_5285_

For the uppers:
Advance Auto Parts
Moog Control Arm Bushing Kit Part No. K3166
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...oog_20516068-p

I used a standard loan-a-tool BJ press from Advance Auto Parts. I bought the bushings from 2 different stores b/c thats what they had in stock.

[otisdog]

I learned after doing my first one that you don't have to remove the big c-clip to take apart the SF joints. Sure made it easier.
I did 4 lowers a couple years ago [hourglass ends] without proper tools and had a heck-of-a-time. Got it done though. The hourglass bushings are not as hard to deal with as the stock style.
Getting the SF joints to break loose on two of mine was a REAL nightmare.
Jim



Here's the 'stuck joint' tool that you can't rent anywhere

[06HokieTJ]

Ha. Some of me were tight, but not thaaaaat tight. I soaked em in P'Blaster and made sure to put on Never-Seez during re-assembly