Looks much better. Now you just need to weld up the extra hole in the front on both sides.
Looks much better. Now you just need to weld up the extra hole in the front on both sides.
Sorry about the quote thing I just did. Trying the page on my new phone.
Got the drivers side rear spring done last night did some measurements before and after I gained 1 1/4 lift. I'm starting to smell smoke from my future camping trip!! I hope I can keep on on the role I have been in get it rolling soon! Hopfully by summer!
Tires and gears? Time to start thinking about thoes things I can't build my self.... for tires about the only option I would have/want due to rIm sIze (Im tryIng not to buy new rIms) is the nitto 38x15.5-15. A buddy of mine runs the same tire but 33's and he really likes them. With tire size 35 to 38 what gear ratio would be ideal?
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/38x..._pn=NIT200-630
That's what I've noticed on alot of other yotas. Even Pete Brody had 5.29 gears. I'll research it more thanks!
Found a rear E diff from a 98 Trd 3.4 supper charged wIth 115k mIles. The truck was rolled over and still ran after. Guys asking 900 bucks for the whole axle drum to drum. Unsure what gears it has. Sound like a good deal?
Not sure what the ratio would be. I paid 400 for just a e-locker 3rd member with blown gears. Wasn't a big deal because I was gonna re-gear it anyway. If you get just the 3rd you will have to modify your existing housing to accept it. $900 seems a little steep but it would be nice to not have to modify the housing. At $900 it's awful close to just buying a new ARB. I'd value the housing at $150-$200 and the locker at $500. I'd be looking in the range of $650-700 complete.
EDIT - Danny beat me to it. What he said too....
I figured it would be about the price of a new ARB without a compressor set up. And I would have to regear what I have now anyways. Also I like the lower mileage.. what's stronger about the 94 v6 axle to the 98 TRD rear diff?
Also I'm kinda Burnt out at modifying and fabricating all my parts. Do you guys know what the pros and cons are. To each other other then modifying, housing and center section?
DANNY. Thanks for asking baby is doing great he's 8 months now! He Is pretty much my motivation. To get my Yota going... I want to make a safe andreliable rig we can both share! oh and And he like plays with hot wheels allready!
Adam,
From what I've read, Tacoma rear axles(I don't know if all or if they fixed it) have a reduction in the diameter of the axle tube at the wheels.
This transfers to a weaker housing.
In this picture, you can see it pretty clear on the left side
http://www.yotatech.comwww.yotatech....que-nm-252116/
Wow your totaly right! I see the difference! Im you guys pretty much persuaded not to get it due to price and strenth. Iv been doing more research and I'm starting to like either Detroit Locker or ARB. I like the simplicity of the Detroit! But I have also have read it's best to put ARB in front. And if you have In front you might as well put one in the rear. What I really don't want go to is ad an air pump to everything. Man all these expensive decisions are driving me nuts really. Lol. Speaking of ARB and air pumps. I ok only seen this one on Google that you can use CO2 tanks to pressurize the ARB or a CO2 from a paint ball gun.... sound lime it would work as long as its not leeking.
Adam,
Here is the same axle for $500
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193527
Yeah. I was gona get robbed! I'm lucky to have asked! Thanks a lot! Was that diff posted today?
Woooooohoo! Ordererd front axle rebuild kit and and high streer kit too!
With out getting in to its a toyota keep it Toyota.... I'm thinking about going with a 5.3 ls swap. As far as cash goes after parting scraping I'll only be in 500 or less bucks. I'm good at fabrication and done a few motor swaps so it's nothing. New. What is you opinion??? I found a a compleat. 01 Chevy suv for 2k with 101 k miles. It was rolled on the. Snow and still drives.
Yup.