Mod For The Day

[JGRubicon]

I definitely have a backlog. The part I am looking forward to the most is doing my own alignment after the lift and steering. I have what I need to do it, but I never really thought it was something a person could do, at this point I feel confident in my ability to get it really close and then just verify it at a regular alignment shop.

I also forgot one of the first things I did, I pulled the stock rock rails and put on LOD frame mounted sliders in their place.

It wont look a whole lot different at the end, but its definitely going to be prepped to hit some more aggressive lines.

[Steve-O]

Maybe an alignment is something I should learn to do. I took my DD to Big O (because it's walking distance from my house) and now my car veers right off the road if you hold the wheel straight 🤦

[Java]

I just did mine this week, it's pretty easy. I use two pieces of superstrut the same length as my tire height and take the tires off, put the center most hole of the superstrut around one lug against the rotor and tighten it down with a lug nut. I use them on an angle with the rear end lower to compensate for Jeep parts in the way of the tape measure and put a builders square (could use anything really) under the lower ends to make sure they're the same without having to measure. I use two tape measures and some small clamps at each corner and it's super easy, just twist the collar until it measures correctly. For the steering I just put a clamp on the center of the wheel so I can see it through the windshield and twist the collar until it's straight.

[FINOCJ]

Home alignment optons....These are kind of pricey versions of what you can scrounge up, but since we are often talking 1/8" difference in measurements, it might be worth the money for 'precision' equipment....ymmv....i've been debating getting the TMR one. More modern vehicles might not benefit that much from just a toe-in tool, as caster and camber may also need to be checked....
https://www.polyperformance.com/syne...8aAttfEALw_wcB
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...ment-tool.html
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products/...alignment-tool

[JGRubicon]

I did pick up one of those toe brackets just cause I was ordering something. I had planned on using angle iron. I also have a cheap digital angle gauge for caster and pinion.

[JGRubicon]

Alright, I exported some smaller photos to share.

Driveshafts are in, and the mains skids that come off easily are painted.

I should be ready to start the lift install after thanksgiving. I will be doing a lot of cleaning and touching up of the surface rust while I am down there.

It also really looks like a few well placed drainage holes could do a lot of good for these skids and crossmember.

[The StRanger]

Definitely not a mod for the day but a well needed repair.
Son was in town for the holidays, so we made a boneyard run (cause you can find them new)
now I FINALLY got window washers.... I think it’s a big thing.

[FINOCJ]

Well, it took 12 years or so...but if you know....you know....
Before:


After:


While at it, swapped the later model, thin OEM diff cover for an earlier/military thick cover:


Its way thicker - maybe not aftermarket bomber stuff, but still a substantial upgrade:


Used a lubelocker gasket - see how that goes....wanted to make it easy to get back in there if needed...


Mostly buttoned up:


hopefully more to come as parts trickle in....

[Spieg]

Love Lube-Locker gaskets. Been using them for a long time. Best part is they're reusable. Just be sure to clean them well before puting them back on.

[FINOCJ]

Next front end project is a tie rod flip for the D27....I used the Rock Equipment flip sleeves from OK4wd. You have to ream out the top of the knuckle hole to create the taper needed for the TREs, and then you use a slightly wedged sleeve in the bottom of the knuckle to essentially fill-in the old taper. I am still using the Ross set-up with cross-over 1-piece tie rod, but just flipped the TRE's to the top of the knuckle. As discussed in some other thread recently, without a 2 hole knuckle on the passenger side, the passenger TRE is a double hole that accepts the 'drag link' from the bellcrank. The extra hole in the TRE also has to have the taper 'flipped' from one side to the other, as when everything moves up over the knuckle it flips over.

Here is the starting point - not OEM, but a pretty decent upgrade from the OEM two separate tie-rod set-up.



As you can see, the TRE has a 'bend' in it that places the TRE kind of between the tie-rod and the drag link. When the TRE 'flips' to the top, that bend will be in the opposite direction, but the drag link connection still needs to be forward of the tie rod. My first thought was to try and use a commando TRE that has the bend in the opposite direction, but the taper flare is still to the front of the vehicle to accept the drag link....these pics from Sam at Parts Dude:







So when the Commando TRE 'flips' to the top of the knuckle, it will have the same bend as the CJ TRE......but the taper would still need to be reworked just the same as the knuckles......BUT....it doesn't work out quite as well as I had hoped.....with everything on top, clearance with the shock became an issue (and these shock bodies are monotube and a bit smaller diameter than the typical double wall hydro shock):



So, back to ream out and use the original TRE - the geometry of the configuration isn't quite as pleasing, but it works:



The most difficult part for me was dealing with the steering alignment etc.....The OAL of the tie-rod needs to be a bit longer to account for how the TRE's fit into the knuckle - the knuckle holes are not 'vertical', and a bit further apart the top.


I wasn't aware of this initially, otherwise I could have gotten the measurement needed and lengthened the tie rod and kept the alilgnment essentially fixed. I didn't figure it out until I put everything back together and recognized visually the amount of toe-in was way too much. Unfortunately, at that point, I had lost any reference to the original alignment, so basically I had to start over with a fresh alignment process. Its been awhile since I did such a thing, so the first time I made a mistake, so got to do everything yet again for a 3rd time!.....But I think I finally got it all good to go....I haven't driven it yet, so it may still end up at an alignment shop for measurements, but its close enough to at least test drive it a bit and see. The final geometry really raises the the linkage up out of the way, removes most of the drag link angle, which will help with bump steer, and hopefully make steering a bit easier. A two hole knuckle with the longer steering arm would be better in terms of steering effort, but this is an improvement over what I had.....

[Mountaineer01]

A couple items I've been meaning to tackle were getting better approach and departure angles, and recovery hooks front and back. I was planning on tackling this before our Canyonlands trip but didn't get around to it and both would have been helpful at the time. I finally got a weekend free to tackle it and I am happy with the results!

The way my front bumper is, there is a clear line halfway through it that would be perfect to cut at to gain about 4 inches of clearance in the front. The drawback to this is I lose my fog lights, but I can always look at some aftermarket options. I read on Explorerforum that I can take tow hooks from an F-150 and they should bolt right up, so that sorts out the front.

For the back, my trailer hitch receiver prevents me from fitting my spare in the stock location, so I ended up getting a hitch mounter spare tire carrier. The issue with this is it adds an extra 6" of overhand and severely impacts my departure angle. So here I decided that since I don't really tow much, the best solution is to get rid of the receiver and put the spare in the stock location. The drawback to this is that my hitch receiver was also my tow point in the back, so I would have to find another tow hook solution.

I went to the local junkyard in search of F-150's of my vintage (1996-2001) for tow hooks. The first one I came across had what I needed and they came apart very easily. With this done I decided to look at the Explorers/Mountaineers to see if I find anything usable. To my surprise I saw an Explorer with a factory tow hook in the back which I didn't even know existed! Awesome score that completes the task at hand.

The front bumper came off without issue and I was able to cut it pretty easily. The tow hooks did not bolt right up unfortunately and I had to drill an extra hole on each side of the frame to accommodate them. All went smoothly however and I am quite happy with the finished product. Pictures may be in random order but I included some from before the modifications and after.

[Jim]

Ahhh - recovery hooks - fantastic!

One nice item checked off!

[Java]

The front bumper looks better cut, IMO. Nice work! Nice gain on the rear too, looks like you can put a hitch ball on the stock rear bumper anyway if you need to tow something.

[TDash]

good job Isak, having to be recovered with no viable recovery hooks is super embarrassing, i know from personal experience.

[The StRanger]

A different design but I just trimmed the outside on the plastic trim and the excess steel off the side of the bumper.
Picked up a stock aluminum skid plate back with some place steel, and kept the center plastic trim for radiator protection...

[Mountaineer01]

Nice! I didn’t know there was a stock skid plate, I got the one from RCI which also covers the radiator.

[The StRanger]

It was on a Ranger that got Wholesaled so I tagged it.
it only thin Aluminum so I backed it it with some Old angle iron I had layin around

[The StRanger]

Still lurking. But had a couple of day to get this front bumper (no real knowledge as to what it come off of) installed on the Explorer. Still need to raise it up a couple of inches.

[Jim]

It's getting closer!

[FINOCJ]

During my Colo trip, some frame cracks were found - not necessarily from that trip, but from the years of collective abuse on an old jeep with C-channel frames etc....so been working on some frame repair:
On the rear shock mount area I started with this cut-out section that included the shock mount:



Then using a piece of frame from ecj5 member jeeppeep, I patched it in like this:



In theory, it would have been easier to weld the shock mount to the piece first, but there were some complications and access with the welding gun that concerned me....I wanted to make sure I got the frame section welded in well, and then I was able to access the shock mount reasonably well to get it welded. Then put some fishplate over the primary patch weld....think it came out ok:



Next up, I have to decide if/how to reinforce the top flange that the shock mount is mounted on. I didn't put fishplate under it - which maybe I should have done.....but anyway, now my options are either to box in the backside of the frame where the shock mount is, add some fishplate on the underside of the top flange (inside the the C-channel), or possibly just leave as is? I am sure the shock mount takes some stress, but guessing its not nearly as much as the sections where the spring hangers are....

For the front spring hanger cracks, I just really felt like to get good repair on the spring hanger cracks, I really need to remove the spring hangers as the cracks were under them. That required getting the leaf springs and axle out of the way:



And then I finally got the passenger spring hanger cut-off....full crack in view and ready to be cleaned up and welded.....



finished grinding out the cracks, cleaning up the PO repair and then welded them up....this is the driver side



then cut two fishplates for the bottom flange to go between the frame and the spring hanger:



welded them in....not good in the big picture, but about as good as I could hope to do myself as a total hack repair...I welded the full perimeter and did 4 'plug' welds...
passenger side:



driver side:



Next up, I need to fishplate the sides of the frame just like I did on the rear, and I have some replacement spring hangers for the ones I cut-off from jeeppeep.....But been doing a lot of research about shackle reversal options. If I were to go SR, this is the time since I've already cut the 2 OEM hangers off......reality says that I have been struggling figuring out the best option for spring hangers in the front, and trying to put this together is a bit rushed as I am headed to UTAH for a wheeling trip in a few weeks. So most likely I will be welding on the spring hangers as it was....but trying not to rush and do my due diligence.