The stock diff covers looked like they'd been hit more times than Joe Lewis.
Ordered these from Ruff Stuff.
Drained a couple of these.
Add a little paint and voila; some rock proof diff's!
The stock diff covers looked like they'd been hit more times than Joe Lewis.
Ordered these from Ruff Stuff.
Drained a couple of these.
Add a little paint and voila; some rock proof diff's!
Nice looking diff covers! RuffStuff puts out some good stuff.
Well I thought I got the old cj up an running pretty well last week. New power valve seemed to take care of carb issues along with raising the float just abit so I get full squirt from the acell pump. That let me get the timing re-worked - the engine seems to like to idle with more initial timing advance than previous to the rebuild. Vac guage and my ear suggest it likes over 10 degrees of initial advance, but that seems to cause a misfire when the mechanical/centrifugal advance and the vac canister also go all in. So I had to back off the initial timing all the way back to 4 BTDC to keep it from having a misfire issue. That seems really low. The centrifugal provides 12 degrees advance when all in, add the 4 of initial and the 12 from the vac can, and that is only 28 degrees of advance when everything is all in. Seems like I could get a bit higher, maybe 8 initial so I am up to 32 all in, but for now that may not be optimal, but its not mis-firing. It doesn't love idling there but it works.
Of course, just as soon as I thought I was making some progress...I took it out for a longer test drive (drove it to work) and it dies on the interstate a few miles from home. After some fun I got it back home and took a few days to try and diagnose the problem. Seems to be it was the classic issue of a bad condensor. This is a brand new rebuild Cardone distributor that came with points and all. I put in the points and condensor that were working when I took them out a couple years ago to install the pertronix and everything is back to running just like before....for both better and worse.
Here are the brand freaking new points and condensor in the new distributor that died after 1 month and about 20 miles....Frickin cheap electrical crap...
Of course, the only reason I am running points again is I damaged the pertronix ring when I was having issues with my old distributor when I was first installing it back into the the engine after the rebuild. As the central bushing/shaft that the breaker plate slides on was moving up and down - it caused the pertronix magnetic pick-up to get pushed up into the ring on the bottom of the rotor and weights. This rubbing caused some damge to the ring and the magnets in the ring were dislodged.
So I figured I would try my best to epoxy them back in place and see if they would work.
Unfortunately, I think it would have worked fine, but I think I got one of the magnets installed with the polarity reversed. When installed in the distributor, the number 6 plug seems to skip a lot of firing. So, we'll see what is next. Not sure I can get the magnet back out without damage due to the epoxy. Anyone know how critical magnet polarity orientation is for these rings?
Might be time for a new pertronix set-up, or just go HEI at this time. My intention was just to run points for a while, but it seems they aren't the quality they used to be.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
___________
The Lost Boys motto: We don't know where we're going, but we'll be there for awhile. :)
[QUOTE=Hypoid;313131]If you can find an HEI distributor to drop in, do it and don't look back![QUOTE=Hypoid;313131]
HEI odd fire 225 set-ups are available - they were run in the Buick Skylark for a couple years in the late 70 (think like 76-77) before the engine was switched over to even fire. Very popular upgrade for these engines - often requires a bit of 'tweaking' to get the oversized distributor to fit with the intake. A low clearance buttonhead bolt and maybe even a bit of grinding on the front driver corner of the intake manifold usually takes care of the issue.
I really liked my pertronix set-up (with hotter coil) for the last couple years - might not be as great as HEI but was way better than points and for less than $100 (as compared to close to $300 for a quality HEI set-up). A friend in montana as an unopened CRT brand HEI ready to go - its definitely tempting.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Mod for the day was replacing old rancho rear shocks in the 3rd gen 4Runner with new Bilstein 5100's . Vastly improved ride. Ordered ORI STX struts for the 1st gen 4Runner, can't wait to get those.
Brian (May 13th, 2017)
Good to hear that about the 5100's. I'm considering those after the season when I do a suspension "refresh."
Havent had a chance to run them offroad but went down Sheridan blvd and thats pretty close to a trail in it's own. They rode really nice.
Nice. Been thinking about using the bil 5100s on my taco. Keep hearing good things.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
So far, I think they are worth the money.
This last weekend I beefed up the rear lower control arm links on the FJ and JK, they turned out well and eliminated that weak point. Only takes a few hours if anyone wants it done, I have some left over angle iron.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3nllgt7lui..._0205.JPG?dl=0
Good idea! Nice added protection to the links!
Needed a little pick me up while setting railings. And I'd say that was accomplished.
Before:
During:
After:
So, my mod for the day before the rain hit was A new Crane diff cover and reworking the ram mounts for more force than previously.
Nice TJ!
Thanks Chris, Rear 13 bolt cover for 14bolt should come in soon
By the time you get it all done I should be ready to take that ride along I've been talking about.
Absolutely! Although the ORI'S won't be in until July. But you are welcome anytime.
Thanks TJ, I keep saying I will and sh!t keeps interfereing.