Nice james glad to see its going back together.
I still have to say its one of the nicest odd fire cj's running around!
Nice james glad to see its going back together.
I still have to say its one of the nicest odd fire cj's running around!
___________
Crazy- You call me crazy, but you wouldn't know crazy if Charles Manson was eating Fruit Loops on your front porch. Suiciadl tendancies- intatutionalized
I see one every day on my way into the shop.
runs drives all that, but not in good shape, body is rusted badly
___________
Crazy- You call me crazy, but you wouldn't know crazy if Charles Manson was eating Fruit Loops on your front porch. Suiciadl tendancies- intatutionalized
Rebuilt the fuel filter head in my Silverado 2500 today. Hopefully it stops the problem I have been having of it losing prime.
Hope that works for ya. Dry starts are never good.
Getting close to finalizing some little 'behind the dash' projects:
Here is my new radio hole cover plate - it will have a double USB charger (2.1A each) with switch and a SPDT switch on the right to operate an auxialiary in cab heater. Its already been painted and wired in the back - just need to mount and hook up the hot 12V wire and ground. Also making a bracket to mount the aux heater up behind the dash.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
That USB looks like the one I just installed in the buggy. 8 Bucks from China.
Made a few changes to my auxiliary heater project...and think its good to go now:
I decided to move the in auxiliary behind the dash heater forward against the firewall so the inlet/outlet ports can go through the firewall into the engine bay for easy hook-up to the hoses.
Had to modify the bracket a bit as it needed a second mount point on the firewall to support the heater in the new location:
Here is how it attaches to the heater:
Here is how it will mount under the dash (photo taken with glove box out):
got the heater inlet/outlet holes drilled through the firewall - so the hose connections can take place in the engine bay:
Painted the bracket and got the heater mounted in the cab - had to drill two more holes in the firewall to mount the bracket, but I used two existing holes on the bottom dash lip. The mount is very solid.
Here is how the hoses mounted. I like having all the hoses in the engine bay and not in the cab, and the connections in the engine bay. For now - mostly due to ease of hose routing - I have the water flow going into the auxiliary heater and then out and into the OEM heater and then back into the block. Its all hooked up in series.
I do have a inline valve and choke cable pull that I intend to insert into one of the hoses to that will stop flow of hot water into the heaters from inside the cab - haven't exactly decided where to mount it or how necessary it will be. I am just concerned that in the summer, I don't want any additional heat coming into the cab via the auxiliary heater core.
Wired all the electrical into the the SPDT switch (down is low, up is high, middle is off). I forgot how quiet this fan is compared to the OEM - and hopefully will put out more heat. The OEM heater will be dedicated for defroster only. That also finalized the radio delete plate with the additional USB charger and switch with LED.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Look good!
Your heater hose routing (factory intended) is the thermostat bypass route, yes? If yes, I don't think you'd be able to put a shut-off valve in the supply heater hose w/o a bypass circuit.
Do you have any additional pix of the heater box? Intake / outflow?
Am I seeing attention to detail on bolt head alignment for your USB/Power plate?
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Thx for the heater fan pix - I was envisioning a cage fan and 2+2 wasn't meeting up in my mind for the layout of that box/fan motor.
I decided to beef up my lower control arm brackets. Using some plate steel I have laying around my garage.
I used a hole saw to match the diameter of the axle, and used the disks to double up the plating. (I'll have to cut a couple more for the other side. I used some thicker steel to make some skids.
I hope this fixes the occasional clunk I have when I apply my brakes.
I had to revisit the "Bug 'n Little" club again: The Jeep passed emissions on the first try.
___________
The Lost Boys motto: We don't know where we're going, but we'll be there for awhile. :)
Started a new project over the weekend. Wylie picked up a truss for his front axle. Using an extra axle so as to be able to complete work while still wheeling and only have truck down a weekend. Also getting close to completing electrical upgrade on my truck finally, sorry no pics of that yet.
___________
We do not remember days, we remember moments.
Cesare Pavese
Put the new steering stabilizers on.
Finally upgraded the drive-lines. Out with the old and welcome to Tom Woods..
Started some rocker protection fab again - here is what I am trying to do this time (the last ones didn't come out very well a couple years ago so they are still sitting in the garage as scrap):
Using 3''x2"x3/16" angle with 1"x1"x1/8" square tube. I was originally trying to use c-channel instead of the square tube, but couldn't get the size I wanted. Ideally, I think 4"x2" angle would have been even better but again this is what I could get easily in the thickness I wanted (1/4" is too much and heavy for my use here).
I cut stuff to length and trimmed the ends of the tube so that it has a bit of a bevel in the front and rear.
I am keeping the front edge of the angle iron square and it will run up along the body panel seem - in other words I didn't try to extend it above the fender lip into the little curved area on the back of the front fender. I am cutting/shaping the rear of the angle iron to match the body curve at the end of the rocker and along the wheel well.
This set-up will cover up up along the side 3" (which i think is the minimum - would have preferred 4" I think), and only have 2" of underlap (could have gotten 3x3). With the 1" square tube I will have just over an inch of lateral extension - gives just a minimum of side protection and looks reasonably proportional to the 3" high side. Additionally, the 1" tube also leave 2" of the angle exposed above it along the side of the angle - which provides a nice, reasonably centered area to drill the mounts.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
A little more progress:
Added the end caps: I envy those of you that can weld nicely. A little final touch up grinding and some paint and it should look okay. I also drilled all the mount holes. Have to weld the second 1" tube on to the angle iron (which includes a lot of grinding and rewelding for me) and then clean and prep for paint.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
More progress - about finished with fab work. Some of the welds, especially on the upper corner of the square tube, were difficult for me so cleaned those - they stand out on the bare metal, but should fade into the paint. Whaddaya think - time to drill the body? Hate drilling holes into old good sheetmetal.
The driver side is the done the same - just hard to get pics with the garage wall on that side. Thinking will paint flat/satin black. Did see some spray can bedliner - could use that. Would appreciate what I think is more durable finish, but it might have more texture than I like and would not match the smooth/powder coated front and rear bumper.
___________
James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Looks good, go for it! I put a bunch of holes in new metal putting protection on, basically only cringed on the first 25 or so. You might consider Rustoleim textured black, basically blends with most powder coat, I use it for touching up on mine. If you are going to use rivnuts and need the tool, let me know.
___________
"A wise and frugal government...shall restrain men from injuring one another, shall leave them otherwise free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor the bread it has earned. This is the sum of good government." Thomas Jefferson