I am definitely steeling it.
I am definitely steeling it.
Just completed a little jeep improvement project - new reverse/back-up lights. There is nothing necessary about back-up lights, and if they didn't originally come on my jeep I wouldn't care, but since they are there they should work! When I got the jeep 6+ years ago, there was some weird tail-light wiring spliced into a trailer plug etc, and the old ones (I think OEM) didn't function. I cleaned up the wiring, new bulb, transmission blade connector etc, and got them working, but they seemed to always be a bit iffy (mostly I think it was a grounding issue from the housing/studs into the body). I would play with them a bit, clean up the corroded mount studs etc and they would usually work for a while. Went to do that this time...and the nuts were frozen on the corroded studs to the point that both studs broke off on one, and one nut stripped out on the other. So I bought some complete unit Crown replacements (could have just replaced the studs I guess) and mounted them up. I cleaned off a little paint around the stud mount to ensure good ground, and hopefully they will work for a long time - a lot of replacement stuff is not as good as OEM these days (clearly says made in china) - so we'll see. The plastic lenses are nice and clear with new bulbs so they put off a bit more light.
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
spent a couple hours trying to stretch and get a new top to fit - it isn't all that warm today so that wasn't helping. Also spent some time working on the doors trying to get them to close with the perfect latch strike and nice and even fit around the edges....not sure its possible....but hey a new top! And its black - wasn't sure I was going to like it, but I really do with the black rock sliders. Off to Moab on Thurs....
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Ah, to have CLEAR windows again!
Sweet James! It does look great.
Looking sharp!
I insulated some panels on the buggy to hopefully reduce the heat on the occupants legs. Used a product called Lizard Skin.
Rockford Fosgate R1675X2 Prime 6.75-Inch Full Range 2-Way Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2
Sound bar speaker upgrade. Oems had blown and were never too gooad.
They sound amazing. If thinking of buying read my amazon review first. Some install issues, easy solution imo.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWAO..._k8l1BbY2RQDE8
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Tom
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Two small electrical/console mods:
1. Upper Dash USB/12V Power outlet. I was getting aggravated by all the charging and power cables dangling down the front of my central console. I made this up using a Daystar lower console, two Blue Sea USB outlets, a 12V outlet, and a Volt/Amp meter. Power to this switched from my sPOD and fused at 15A. I just need to put some black paint on those four screws.
2. I also like having the option of controlling my winch from inside the vehicle. I worked with Darren (12VoltGuy) to make up this console using a Daystar lower console panel, two Blue Sea 2145 switches, and two winch control switches.
Prabha
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Tom
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I am working on my seats for the old jeep - the passenger seat mount has 2 parts: the lower 'foot' mount that bolts to the floor and upper mount bolted to the seat. The two piece mount basically fits together with short round dowels that literally just rest in the foot mount. The mount is set-up to allow the seat to pivot forward (allowing access to the underseat tool box), and also to allow for the seat to be removed very easily (like just lift up and back at the same time). In my case, the mount has years of wear on the contact points, and there was a lot of slop at the pivot point that made for an annoying shifting and clunking ride in the passenger seat and occasionally the seat would bounce off the lower mounts. I kept the seat belt over the seat even without a passenger just to keep the seat in the jeep.
Maintaining the pivot function was important to me, but the ease of removal was less so. So my solution was to weld up the slots in the lower mount and cut the dowel pins off the upper mount. Drilled matching 5/16 holes in each so I could bolt them together, and use washers and nylock nut to keep it tight enough to minimize the slop and shifting but allow for pivoting. Plus, when i need to remove the seat - its only 2 bolts.
Seat frames have been cleaned up and repainted - will put them back in today. Seats will go back in temporarily as they will be going to the upholstery shop in a few weeks for recovering.
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Seat mounted back in jeep...added some new rubber endcaps with fender washer on the inside to protect the rubber from being cut through by the open end of the frame tube. Seat is rock solid now and pivot works easily...the wife also fully approves as she rides in it mostly. Now to clean and repaint the driver bracket and get the seats to the upholstery shop in a few weeks.
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James Orofino
1970 CJ5
1958 Willys Wagon
Look'n good!
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~Not All Who Wander Are Lost~ (at least not all the time)
FINOCJ (November 4th, 2018)
Replaced the upper oil pan gasket on my JKUR today. Also finished up making some soft shackles out of some extra winch line I had.
I used a button knot.
This video is OK but the knot is kind of hard to follow.
I used the knot in this video. Not sure if it is the same but it works.
I also used a Factor 55 Fast FID.
I winched the knot tight, put thin CA glue on it, and cut the ends short.
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Tom
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newracer (November 17th, 2018)